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The Island DWS

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 49
11

Seasonality

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Summary

A lovely swimming spot with some great little DWS lines on rock similar to descent gulley at thommos.

Description

It is very likely these lines have been done before, i'm just putting these up because they are great problems

Access issues inherited from Nowra

This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues.

Approach

Walk along the grotto track until you are just beyond the Rainbow Wreckage cave. There will be an obvious track leading off to the left down to the island. There is currently a bridge of logs built to the island, so it is possible to get there without getting wet.

Ethic inherited from Nowra

Mostly developed as a sport climbing and bouldering area. Some trad climbing exists, mainly the pure cracks. If developing new areas keep an eye and and ear out for Aboriginal cultural heritage, including cave art.

Routes

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Grade Route

A nice techy traverse of the front face. Start on the obvious ledge near the rope, and traverse until you can stand again on the back right face. Best done L to R. Your feet may get wet depending on the tide.

FA: Alec Landstra, 2018

Traverse along the bottom, feet in green, hands on lowest rail. Might be a low tide only climb. Underneath black face traverse

FA: Cadeyn Mclellan, 15 Sep 2023

Classic juggy traverse of the back face on cool features. Can be done either direction.

FA: Alec Landstra, 2018

The fun arete featuring a sweet pocket horn combo.

FA: Alec Landstra, 2018

Just right of Fish eye, up via nice pockets. Best traversed into

A nice line up through a few good edges. Best traversed into

FA: Alec Landstra, 2018

A cool move between monos near the top of the cliff to slopy top out. Best traversed into

FA: Alec Landstra, 2018

Cool move from a small crimpy edge. Best traversed into

FA: Alec Landstra, 2018

Nice traverse of the top lip on slopers and pockets

FA: Ari Landstra, 2019

Up the white stripe between Tailor and Flounder. No reaching into the other climb holds to make more challenging. Fun moves.

FA: Cadeyn Mclellan, 15 Sep 2023

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter, Carlie LeBreton, Rob LeBreton, Neil Monteith, Rod Young

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780994278449

The new Nowra guide is the most comprehensive guide to one of Australias largest sport climbing destinations. Coincidently it also includes New Nowra or Braidwood Park as it is now known which contains 650 routes in itself. With over 1500 routes all up it will be impossible to run out of projects to get yourself spanked on ever again.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sat 29 Apr
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