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Thunder Bluff All Trad climbing 11 routes in crag

  • Grade context: AU
11
AU
121416182022

Summary

Some good crack and slab routes. Excellent camping with running water on tap here.

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Description

Thunder Bluff is a huge boulder up to 60 metres high bounded on the right by 'Lightning Slab', a curving sweep of slabs capped by a roof. Best access to the base of the crag is to scramble down the southeast end and descend the 'Helter Skelter Ramp' (a carnival slide of leaves and loose rocks) to the bottom of the slab. The routes are described from right to left.

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Access issues

Thunder Bluff is in the Bimberi Wilderness area of Namadgi National Park. Please do everything you can to reduce your impact on the environment.

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Approach

The cliff (grid reference 734529) is atop a short ridge facing southwest over the upper valley of 'Rendezvous Creek'; it is described here as the only sensible access is from the Lunar Laser Ranger in Orroral Valley. From the Ranger, take an uphill traverse, west-south-west across the slope to the saddle at grid reference 744538, crossing a spur about 300 metres down and west from the summit of Mt Orroral. Follow a shallow, open valley downwards, crossing the marsh to a group of boulders known as 'The Atrium' (one significant line on the far side, no climbs yet). Walk through then head parallel to the watercourse to an unprepossessing rise which is the back of the crag. Overall about one hour from the Lunar Laser Ranger.

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Where to stay

You can camp at Thunder Bluff.

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History

History timeline chart

Another southern ACT crag discovered by the inimitable Paul Daniel and first climbed during a thunderstorm!

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Some content has been provided under license from: © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 Lust and Seduction Trad 30m

An exploratory traverse from right to left under the Lightning slab roof, starting at the Helter Skelter ramp. Take some RPs.

FA: Ken Luck & John Churchill, 1991

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2
22 ★ Gentleman's Agreement Mixed trad 42m, 2

Superb slab climbing leading to an exciting conclusion. Start at the obvious leftwards ramp.

  1. 35 metres (21) - Up the ramp and diagonally left past two bolts to where the ramp continues. Up the seam to belay under the handcrack in the roof.

  2. 7 metres (22) - Through the roof!

FA: Ken Luck, Paul Daniel, John Churchill, Liz Milbourne & Anne Hastings

FFA: Ken Luck & Liz Milbourne, 1991

3
19 ★ Die by the Sword Trad 45m

The magnificent curving flake at the lefthand end of Lightning Slab: take large and small gear. The short easy corner was done as a second pitch.

FA: Adam Blizzard & John Churchill (alt.), 1991

4
12 The Dormouse Trad 10m

Hidden in the boulders below and against the main wall is a pleasant juggy slab in a cave, finishing through a hole to a branch belay. Take wires.

FA: Liz Milbourne, Anne Hastings & Paul Daniel, 1991

5
18 Lemon Twisted Loverboy Trad 15m

Good jamming and bridging up the corner crack after a short graunchy start just left of the boulder jumble. Rap off a sling.

FA: John Churchill, Adam Blizzard, Paul Daniel & Ken Luck, 1991

6
16 Daylight Robbery Trad 55m

15 metres further left and slightly uphill is a rightwards trending wide crack system, first climbed at the end of daylight saving.

  1. 15 metres - The steep fist crack (crux) eases back then step left to a good stance.

  2. 25 metres - Continue up a corner system to belay behind large flakes.

  3. 15 metres - Take the rightwards leaning flake to a good stance. Finish left up a slab adjacent to the diagonal crack.

FA: Liz Milbourne & Anne Hastings, 1991

7
18 Caught in the Cakeshop Trad 20m

15 metres left of 'Daylight Robbery' is a handcrack through a small roof. Up and through the roof, swim up the offwidth, then left up a curving ramp. Finish up a short mossy slab.

FA: Mike Peck & Paul Daniel, 1991

8
20 ★ Hopes Up for Trousers Down Mixed trad 25m, 1

Above the finish to 'Caught in the Cakeshop' is a beautiful cleaned flake right of a slabby arete. Fine sustained climbing finishing up a slab past a bolt to a block belay.

FA: Mike Peck & Paul Daniel, 1991

9
21 Uncut Jewel Trad 20m

Quite good. Start seven metres to the left of and around the arete from 'Hopes up for Trousers Down'. Climb the finger crack until able to step onto the arete (crux). Runout moves from the horizontal break lead to a block belay.

FA: Adam Blizzard, John Churchill, Ken Luck & Paul Daniel, 1991

10
17 Bird Brain Trad 15m

The mossy crack in the wall five metres left of 'Uncut Jewel'.

FA: Mike Peck (solo), 1991

11
20 Lucky Strikes Trad 20m

In a short blocked gully 50 metres left of the main bluff. The horrible crack with a narrowing finish in the left wall.

FA: Ken Luck & Adam Blizzard, 1991

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