Start up Mogadon for a few metres then diagonally to blocks on ledge. Straight up flake and pull through small roof (crux). Belay on ledge approximately 8 metres above roof.
Follow continuation of crack in buttress till angle eases.
Situated just to the right of the cave-like gully that separates the Central Gully from the Northern Buttress. There are some huge overlaps and cracks here, but unfortunately the overall angle is very low. This climb takes the left
hand overlap where the rock is steepest. Start in the gully immediately below the waterfall (2nd abseil pitch for rappel descent route).
30m (15) Climb the diagonal crack and slabs to belay on a small ledge beside and left of the huge overhang.
30m (18) Move up and traverse towards the right under the next overhang in a superb position. Move around corner to gain crack and slabs which leads to a belay ledge beneath a shallow corner.
50m (15) Climb the corner and slabs which eventually leads to the summit terraces.
First pitch is the same as Juluka then heads out through crack system in largest roof (Guano Roof). Aid moves through roof that may eventually go free at grade 24/25. Route then joins third pitch of Mediterranean Cruise.
Same as first pitch for Juluka
Traverse out on thin pro to reach roof. Good pro in roof crack. Climb out using crack and jugs. Aid moves on good cams to reach roof lip. Pull through on good holds to reach belay stance above roof.
Traverse right on slabs to join Mediterranean Cruise at start of third pitch.