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Routes in Peak Charles for selected grade

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Showing all 14 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Access track boulder
18 Smells Like Dead Fish

Straight up crackline through slight overhang.

FA: S. Mansfield, 1996

Trad 8m
The Lefthand End
18 Bogger Wobble

The first crack to the left of Garp. Head up crack, step up left over bulge (crux). Straight up centre of buttress to right of cave.

FA: B. Dowrick, 1994

Trad 40m
Onion Gully
18 Onion
1 18 14m
2 14 24m
3 13 24m
4 11 25m

The long onion shaped chimney at the back of Onion Gully.

  1. 14m (18) From belay at top of grassy gully, climb chimney (crux). Protection in parallel crack to right. Belay on small ledge.

  2. 24m (14) Ascend chimney. Protection in back (large gear). Belay on small ledge in crack (awkward).

  3. 24m (13) Chimney upwards to belay under overhang.

  4. 25m (11) Climb sloping crack in slabs to finish near tourist track.

FA: S. McKie, D. Shaw, C. Swain & A. Garvin, 1994

Trad 87m, 4
18 Loopy
1 18 14m
2 18 43m
3 15 5m
4 16 32m
  1. 14m (18) - same as the first pitch of Onion - From belay at top of grassy gully, climb chimney (crux). Protection in parallel crack to right. Belay on small ledge.

  2. 43m (18) Bridge start and step right. Follow left diagonal flared crack and water marks to waterfall. Continue 13 metres up gully and belay on small ledge.

  3. 5m (15) Ascend left to ledge below obvious 5m vertical crack.

  4. 32m (16) Climb crack, walk to right hand end of large block and climb 3m crack. Walk to centre of huge block 5 metres high, climb and belay on top.

FA: S. McKie & A. Garvin, 1994

Trad 94m, 4
Spartacus Slab
18 Friends for Life

Chimney 10m right of Spartacus Flake, follow crack above.

Start 10 metres right of Left Edge at the Spartacus Flake, from the left side of the gully/chimney. Up the short chimney, then exit into crack above (crux) to reach easier ground. Directly up to finish at the same belay as Left Edge and Spartacus. Mid size cams come in handy at crux.

Belay (DBB) from top of flake.

FA: Ross Weiter & J Gregg, 1997

Trad 45m
18 Once Were Warriors

Very bold climb 6 metres right of Love Comes In Hot Spurts by a prominent black streak.

  1. 45m Small SLCD in right side then run out to seam. Belay at obvious ledge.

  2. 25m Right 5m, then up to ledge.

  3. 45m Up trending right.

  4. 45m Trend right to belay on terrace beneath headwall. Exit easily off left.

FA: K. Lindorff, C. Jones & M. Haffner, 1995

Trad 160m, 4
18 Quoll Spotting

Lovely face climbing just left of The Antechinus. Start up the first two bolts of The Antechinus then make a glamorous traverse left on ideal jugs. Grab the quoll by the tail and make a final step up and left with finesse. Cruise up the upper face on crimps, incut flakes and foot jugs. Trends right after the last bolt and shares the lower off on The Antechinus.

FA: Neil Gledhill & Kate Swain, 16 Apr 2022

Sport 30m, 10
Central Gully The Block & Lower Gully
18 Top Rope Problem

The prow to the right of Holiday in Kambalda.

FA: B. Dowrick

Top rope 15m
Central Gully Upper Tier
18 The Birthday Party
  1. Start up Mogadon for a few metres then diagonally to blocks on ledge. Straight up flake and pull through small roof (crux). Belay on ledge approximately 8 metres above roof.

  2. Follow continuation of crack in buttress till angle eases.

FA: B. Dowrick & J. Kerr, 1994

Trad 90m, 2
18 Juluka
1 15 30m
2 18 30m
3 15 50m

Situated just to the right of the cave-like gully that separates the Central Gully from the Northern Buttress. There are some huge overlaps and cracks here, but unfortunately the overall angle is very low. This climb takes the left hand overlap where the rock is steepest. Start in the gully immediately below the waterfall (2nd abseil pitch for rappel descent route).

  1. 30m (15) Climb the diagonal crack and slabs to belay on a small ledge beside and left of the huge overhang.

  2. 30m (18) Move up and traverse towards the right under the next overhang in a superb position. Move around corner to gain crack and slabs which leads to a belay ledge beneath a shallow corner.

  3. 50m (15) Climb the corner and slabs which eventually leads to the summit terraces.

FA: M. Moore & M. Haffner, 1990

Trad 110m, 3
18 M1 Call Me Thor

First pitch is the same as Juluka then heads out through crack system in largest roof (Guano Roof). Aid moves through roof that may eventually go free at grade 24/25. Route then joins third pitch of Mediterranean Cruise.

  1. Same as first pitch for Juluka

  2. Traverse out on thin pro to reach roof. Good pro in roof crack. Climb out using crack and jugs. Aid moves on good cams to reach roof lip. Pull through on good holds to reach belay stance above roof.

  3. Traverse right on slabs to join Mediterranean Cruise at start of third pitch.

FA: P. Weber, C. Mason & T. Holm, 1998

Trad 110m, 3
18 The Missing Link Direct

Same climb as as The Missing Link but in pitch 2 take the L groove.

FA: C. Slee, 2010

Trad
18 Guano
  1. As for Last Tango in Widgiemooltha

  2. As for Mediterranean Cruise.

  3. 40m Straight up the offwidth chimney crack above and then continue up the right crack system.

  4. 45m Straight up slab.

  5. Scramble to finish.

FA: R. MacArthur, P. McKenzie & R. Master

Trad 170m, 5
Karakoram Gully
18 Neon Wilderness

Thirty metres up the gully from Concrete Tundra is a hanging corner crack. Gain this and over bulge to the overlap on Pitch II of Concrete Tundra.

FA: M. Haffner & M. Moore, 1991

Trad 35m

Showing all 14 routes.

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