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Esk

Access: Access Temporarily Prohibited

Update on access situation:

Somerset Regional Council has issued notices barring access to climbing at the Esk crag temporarily until Council is able to resolve access and native title concerns on adjoining Crown land. Council is also planning to develop trails in the area.

For more information, please see: https://www.somerset.qld.gov.au/news/article/2804/historic-mountain-at-esk-not-open-to-public-yet?fbclid=IwAR1c9IQKNidTiIEpLubbOOQBHR_j-RZX3YzQbDlSVuCHZYDC7PtZjTvUvFE

I know that it’s somewhat frustrating, but please refrain from climbing at Esk until access issues are resolved. It appears that Council eventually wants to welcome climbing at this crag, so let’s not jeopardise this outcome!

See warning details and discuss

Created 3 years ago
19

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Summary

2 minute walk in with all day winter shade. Some summer shade between 9am to 1pm

Description

Little Crag with some short punchy lines

Approach

On brisbane valley highway Heading into Esk from Fervale turn right into the first driveway leading onto the dirt road and do U turn immediately parking will be 27°14'48.5"S 152°26'03.1"E https://goo.gl/maps/oHVX6z1nVNvFF7Bm6

Ethic

!!!!!!PLEASE READ BEFORE CLIMBING HERE!!!!!!!!

Keep noise at the crag to a minimum, take all rubbish with you from the crag and stick to the established walking track. Its a privilege not an entitlement to climb here so please do so with respect! If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, variant starts/finishes. If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision.

Climbers wishing to do a weekend at the crag are encouraged not to stay in the carpark overnight as sleeping/camping outside of a designated rest area or public camp site is illegal in Queensland. Access could be shut down if complaints are made from locals about climbers living/camping in the bush here, and it could only take one complaint from a local to shut down this area for everyone. 
The best camping options are Esk caravan park: https://www.eskcaravanpark.com.au/

Wivenhoe dam: https://www.seqwater.com.au/things-to-do/camping/camping-lumley-hill-lake-wivenhoe

Somerset dam: https://www.experiencesomerset.com.au/somerset-park-campground/

Routes

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Grade Route

Another so called warm up

Set: Tracey Hua, 24 Oct 2020

FA: Tracey Hua, 26 Oct 2020

The new warm up.

FA: Alistair Earley, 31 May 2020

Start up cheeze for the geeze or slightly to the right, take care on the spicy second clip.

Set: Corey Batten & Harry Bowman

FA: harry bowman, 6 Jun 2020

The nicer, modern way to climb poo stains. Direct start into TRFKAPS. Climb up the slopey ledges to the jugs at the start of the roof. From the letterbox, work your way up the technical face joining the former. Solid pumpy climbing.

FA: Robert Saunders, 27 Sep 2020

Climbs through the steep bouldery section on left side of the cave to awkward mantle. Stem up through the open groove to join the last two bolts of Poo Stains and anchor.

FA: Robert Saunders, 29 Aug 2020

Super fun boulder sequence into confusing fuckery.

Set: Sam bowman & Harry Bowman

FA: Sam Bowman

packs a hell of a punch for a short climb, feels like bouldering. start with the first 2 bolts clipped in, long stick clip required to reach the second.

Set: Corey Batten & Harry Bowman

FA: Corey Batten, 31 Jul 2020

Climb just to the right of Blue Beam. Use Hang Fire start bolt and climb HF start. Do not use any Blue Beam holds and Climb through the first bulge from the small cave. Then Climb to the second smaller cave and then through to the top. The final hold is just up from the anchor on the left.

FA: Duncan Steel †

Set: Duncan Steel, 26 Sep 2020

FFA: 1 Nov 2020

Starts directly under the first bolt on the grey coloured rock then moves right to the break then heads left and up the obvious line of bolts. Solid climbing all the way from the break.

Set: duncan steel, 12 Sep 2020

FFA: Duncan Steel, 26 Sep 2020

The start is up the black coloured rock to the right of 'Hang Fire'. Move slightly right to the break then up the black groove to the anchor. The crux requires true grit.

Set: Duncan Steel, 5 Sep 2020

FFA: Duncan Steel, 12 Sep 2020

Still underdevelopment, Only has an anchor for now. Super hard and technical.

Set: Alistair Earley, 5 Sep 2020

The route starts left of the large Brush box Tree. Climbs the steepening wall, traversing left into the obvious vertical groove system. Groove Tram climbs up the left side to lower off rings beside the ledge. Wickedly techo and balancy climbing.

Set: Rob Saunders, 5 Sep 2020

FFA: Rob Saunders, 24 Oct 2020

Project closed after 3rd bolt on Groove Tram. Please stay off

Set: Robert Saunders

start standing in front of the tree then head slightly right and upwards to some punchy and super rad climbing

Set: Corey Batten, alex mougenot & harry bowman

FA: Sam Bowman, 24 May 2020

Still a project, Thin and wild. Shares the last two bolts and anchor of Deer Hallucinations.

Set: Corey Batten, 30 Aug 2020

Prepare your tendons. Your gonna have a bad time if you clip the bolts for Chicken Crimpys, stick to the right bolts

Set: sam bowman, corey batten & harry bowman

FFA: Corey Batten, 15 Jun 2019

BatMan start to the first bolt of The Cats Pyjamas skipping the gnarly boulder problem at the start.

All round crag favourite. gets the grade from the tricky crux sequence

Set: sam bowman, corey batten & harry bowman

FFA: Corey Batten, 22 May 2019

Follow the line of bolt up the left-hand side of the arête. Try and hang on tight as you dance your way up the arête.

FFA: Duncan Steel, 11 Oct 2020

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 28 Apr
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