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Ascents in Sunshine Coast by Robert Hartley having trad-cpr or ascent-date

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Showing all 24 ascents.

Rating Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Date
2450 points
20 Easy Sideshow Bob - with Alex
1 10 28m Second lead by Alex

Easy scrambling up lichenous rock to the bolt. Bit damp in the gully.

2 13 30m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

Typical nondescript Tibro access pitch. Bolts where you need them, and a nice wire near the top.

3 15 30m Second lead by Alex

A 30m percussion instrument.

Lots of dummy, suspicious rock at either end of this pitch.

4 16 45m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

The route this pitch follows wasn't immediately obvious to me. Generally up and left from the belay, for future reference.

A really nice pitch of climbing. Bolts are well spaced, but wire placements are easily found.

5 13 20m Second lead by Alex

A fun little traverse. Lots of projectiles sitting in the gully.

6 20 30m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

Quite a crazy looking pitch of climbing! Certainly longer than photograph's I'd seen made it appear.

Great mix of jamming, stemming, and weird arm bars while you shake out your claves.

The crack didn't feel like a 20 to me, perhaps closer to 18/19. I felt the hardest one or two moves were exiting the crack at the top as you step out onto the face.

Rock quality within the crack was generally decent. Several portable holds on the faces either side, however.

Medium - large wires and hexes were my primary protection. Plus small - medium cams.

MVP:
#2 hex at the top of the crack!
7 16 32m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

A nice pitch of climbing with solid rock.

Hangers are decently spaced but where you need them. Didn't see any placements on this pitch, but didn't feel the need for any gear.

Went past the actual anchor for this pitch and belayed from the top of the second last pitch of Ross Miller Route (up and left). This made exiting via Blabbermouth easier.

Mixed trad 220m, 6 Mt Tibrogargan Very Good Mon 1st May 2023
A great day out with Alex! Hopefully we'll get a few more in before he racks off to Canada.

Overall a fun, well protected route with a great crux pitch and smatterings of questionable rock throughout.

Started up pitch 1 around 9am, topped out around 1pm. Didn't bother with the last pitch. Descent via Blabbermouth.

Gear

Wires & hexes (DMM 1-3)

Cams: 00-4 (DMM). Doubles 0-3 if you want, and I reckon you could fit a 5 in there too.

 
2257 points
19 ~19 El Scorcho - with Angie
1 19 53 Second

Great lead by Scott!

This pitch felt very soft for a 21, closer to 18/19 in my opinion.

2 19 24 Second lead by Angie

A hard few moves straight off the belay, especially if you’re short. These moves felt harder than anything on the 21 pitch.

3 14 32 Second lead by Angie

Easy climbing with a single #0 (DMM) to reduce the runout.

Mixed trad 110m, 15 Mt Tibrogargan Very Good Sun 22nd Jan 2023
A really great climb! I’ll definitely be back to take the lead of each pitch. This is basically sport with a mixed approach via Blabbermouth.

 
2252 points
21 ~19 El Scorcho - with Steve Clarke
1 21 53m Second lead by Steve Clarke

Stellar lead by Stevie C

2 19 24m Trad lead by Robert Hartley
3 14 32m Trad lead by Robert Hartley
Mixed trad 110m, 15 Mt Tibrogargan Very Good Sun 27th Aug 2023
Great start to the Sunday with Steve who absolutely crushed the crux pitch!

 
1952 points
17 The Martian - with dre
1 15 48m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

Run out sport with a horn to sling. Easy climbing and a nice intro pitch.

2 13 28m Second lead by dre

Bit of an awkward belay, with a low tree in the way.

3 14 30m Second lead by dre
4 13 31m Trad lead by Robert Hartley
5 11 30m Second lead by dre
6 13 30m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

Interesting pitch with a nice stance at the top for lunch.

7 13 30m Second lead by dre

Just keep trending slight left, and you can’t get lost.

8 15 30m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

Rope drag wasn’t too bad. I found it easier to go up the arête.

Didn’t spot the hidden pro on the left, I must have stayed too far right, but there was some gear available?

9 15 30m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

Fantastic slab pitch! Gear available to minimise the runouts.

10 17 30m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

What you’re here for! A terrific pitch of climbing with great pro the whole way.

Mixed trad 320m, 22 Mt Beerwah Very Good Sun 7th May 2023
The Martian makes for a great day out! The last 2 pitches are certainly the most fun, but the others are so relaxed that they’re enjoyable in their own right.

Andre did a great job, taking the lead for his first ever mixed multi, and only his second mixed lead. Great placements!

We went at a very leisurely pace, and copped some rain on the descent. Doesn’t take much water to turn the slab to glass!

Gear

The recommended rack is perfectly adequate for a safe day out. If you really wanted to double up on something, you could get another 3 (DMM) in.

If you’re comfortable at the grades, you can essentially leave the whole rack on the second for the first 8 pitches. I think Andre only placed wires and DMM 1 & 2 during these pitches.

 
1799 points
19 Hard Patience Crack - Direct pitch 1 P1 - with Yim
1 Second lead by Yim
Trad 94m Mt Tibrogargan Good Sat 10th Jun 2023
I think Yim was telling the truth when he said “I’ll take the 15” of the first pitch options, but then couldn’t resist the 19 onsight, and so up he went!

I thought the crux of this route was at the 15/19 intersection and found it quite tricky. One or two drop knees, followed by putting a couple hand holds back once I was done with them, and I was up.

 
1777 points
17 Hairy Legs - with Alex Trad 15m Mt Ngungun Average Sun 3rd Oct 2021
There’s only one move on this route that comes close to the grade. Protection is adequate with underwhelming rock quality. Very dirty, mustn’t see much traffic.

 
1727 points
17 Remains Of The Day - with Amy Chan
1 17 20m lead by Amy Chan
2 14 28m lead by Amy Chan
3 16 28m lead by Robert Hartley
4 16 30m lead by Amy Chan
5 13 30m lead by Robert Hartley
Mixed trad 140m, 22 Mt Tibrogargan Very Good Sun 16th Oct 2022
Falcons:
Activity seems to be originating approximately near the top of Airtime / Banished.

During P4 a falcon circled overhead a few times, paused briefly on a ledge in the chimney to check us out, then took off again. Besides this encounter they didn't seem to pay us any attention. During the 5th pitch a pair engaged in midair combat over the caves route sector!

Route

Summary: A well protected introductory trad route, similar to Blabbermouth, but in a more interesting position. SLCDs 0-4 (DMM) + medium & large wires is more than sufficient.

Descend: 2x60m will get you from the top of p5 to the top of p3, and again to the top of p1.

  1. First bolt is reasonably high, but the climbing to it is quite straightforward. The crux is in the first 3 or so bolts and felt solidly 17.

  2. Traverse about half-way along the ledge, then head up. First bolt is visible if you look carefully. I think this is closer to 13/14.

  3. Fun moves straight off the belay with interesting chimney to follow. The top of this pitch offers a nice shaded ledge. All gear is SLCDs.

  4. The stand-out pitch, in my opinion. I'll have to come back to lead this.

  5. Very comfortable climbing with plenty of opportunity for placements. Wires & SLCDs.

 
1629 points
15 Patience Crack - with Yim
2 32m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

Great pitch of climbing and thrilled to have done so well! Bomber gear, great hands and feet and plenty of opportunity to test.

The belay at the top of p2 is excellent (large wire, cam and thread), I don’t know why others suggested traversing onto Phoenix p2.

3 32m Second lead by Yim

I had planned to lead this pitch too, but I built and anchor of the rope and neither Yim or I could be bothered swapping ends.

I thought this pitch was a bit tricky near the white rock, but otherwise pretty cruisy. Decent runout to the trees / grass which form your belay.

Trad 64m Mt Tibrogargan Very Good Sat 10th Jun 2023
I’d had my eye on this route for a while, and I’m so glad I got to spend it with Yim linking up into Trojan.

Yim set his glasses on the ground and almost immediately stood on them…

“How well can you see without your glasses?” are the words I used. “Can you still lead the scary pitches?” is the question I was asking.

The strapping tape fix held the whole day but made for an interesting look!

Gear

A single rack was sufficient, maybe doubles in 2 and 3 would be useful?

  • 00-6 (DMM)
    • Another comment suggested a 5/6 (BD?), I took a 5 (BD) but it went unused the whole day
  • Wires
 
1522 points
16 Blabbermouth - with Steve Clarke
1 12 28m Trad lead by Robert Hartley
2 16 34m Trad lead by Robert Hartley
Mixed trad 62m, 6 Mt Tibrogargan Very Good Sun 27th Aug 2023
Access to El Scorcho

 
1520 points
16 Blabbermouth P2 - with dre
2 16 34m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

Didn’t miss the first bolt this time, had a good chat to the party of three ahead. Chose to do El Scorcho than make a crowd at each belay.

Mixed trad 34m, 6 Mt Tibrogargan Very Good Sat 19th Aug 2023
1457 points
16 Blabbermouth P2 - with Angie
2 16 34m Trad
Mixed trad 34m, 6 Mt Tibrogargan Very Good Sun 22nd Jan 2023
I always miss the first bolt on this pitch, it’s lower than I remember!

 
1346 points
17 Remains Of The Day
1 17 20m Trad
2 15 28m Second
3 16 28m Trad
4 16 30m Second
5 13 30m Trad
Mixed trad 140m, 22 Mt Tibrogargan Very Good Sat 17th Dec 2022
1277 points
14 Spilled Milk - with Alex Trad 13m Mt Ngungun Good Sun 3rd Oct 2021
1151 points
13 Deep Purple - with Alex Trad 35m Mt Ngungun Sun 6th Feb 2022
Done as two pitches, belaying from the ledge. Alex leading the first, me the second. It was extremely windy at the top belay stance.

Even the largest pieces of the rack were being held horizontal to my body by the wind.

 
1151 points
13 Angie - with Alex Trad 18m Mt Ngungun Sun 6th Feb 2022
An enjoyable, reasonably protected route with lots of stemming.

 
1095 points
13 Crack Chaser - with Alex Trad 16m Brooyar Mon 2nd Aug 2021
1083 points
21 ~19 El Scorcho - with dre
1 21 53m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

Great to come back and lead this pitch! Really fun climbing.

I maintain my original opinion of the grade, even on lead it’s a soft touch. Stiff 18 / solid 19 in my opinion.

Great second by Andre!

2 19 24m Trad lead by Robert Hartley

A few hard moves off the belay, and then you’re off! Mellows very quickly into a scramble.

3 14 32m Second lead by dre

Great lead by Andre, especially given my pooly remembered description of the pitch… Handled the runouts excellently.

Mixed trad 110m, 15 Mt Tibrogargan Very Good Sat 19th Aug 2023
Wasn’t the original plan, but beats being crowded at an anchor with another party for several hours. Great to come back and tick it too.

 
1052 points
16 Blabbermouth - with Angie
1 12 28m lead by Robert Hartley
2 16 34m lead by Angie
3 16 33m lead by Angie
4 13 20m lead by Angie
5 14 28m lead by Angie
6 13 32m lead by Angie
7 10 20m lead by Robert Hartley
Mixed trad 200m, 6 Mt Tibrogargan Very Good Sun 5th Jun 2022
This was my first mixed multipitch route and was an excellent introduction! Overall the route is very well protected with plenty of hangers where natural gear is unavailable. A 70m single rope will allow you abseil each pitch without issue. We started climbing the variant start at around 0715 and topped out around 1045 and were back on the ground at 1145.

Big thanks to Angie for taking me up and for being great company!

Pitch notes:

  1. (VS) Easy climbing with good gear available at every stance.

  2. The initial traverse of the belay is easy climbing and straight forward to protect. 5 fixed hangers separated by good cam placements.

  3. A really fun pitch with solid gear protecting the crux and more than enough bolts either side of it.

  4. Fully bolted with 6 hangers to the anchor.

  5. Really cool corner straight off the belay. Slightly greater distances between bolts on this pitch are protectable with gear if you feel the need.

  6. Starts steep, turns into a slabby walk about half way up. Bolts where you need them.

  7. Solo to the anchor on a ledgey slab. Easier than caves route in my opinion. Small gear available on the left of the headwall if you feel you need it.

Thanks to the developers for the time, effort, and money that went into making Blabbermouth what it is: an excellent introductory mixed multipitch. It's a route I expect I'll enjoy many times, and gives me the confidence to tackle others!

 
946 points
13 Trojan - with Thomas Zambon
1 13 14m Trad lead by Robert Hartley
2 13 14m Trad lead by Robert Hartley
3 13 15m Second lead by Thomas Zambon
4 13 15m Second lead by Thomas Zambon
5 13 15m Second lead by Thomas Zambon
Trad 73m Mt Tibrogargan Classic Sun 12th Nov 2023
Finally returned to lead pitches 1 and 2!

Tom did a great job linking pitches 3-5 in one push. Best way to do it imo.

 
899 points
13 Trojan - with Yim
1 13 14 Second lead by Yim

Not as insecure climbing as the description and previous comments seemed to suggest. The feet are slick but the hands are quite positive.

Yim did an excellent job leading this pitch and I cannot wait to return to lead it myself!

Yim linked 1 and 2, and I would do the same in future.

#4 BD hex was brilliant for the first piece. It sunk so well I didn't think I'd get the damned thing out.

Yim slung a horn at the top and lovingly weighted it with his approach shoes: the olfactory crux.

2 14 Second lead by Yim

Another great lead by Yim!

As I arrived at the cave, I couldn't see the belay behind Yim and thought for a second that I was the lucky recipient of the loosest hip belay I've ever seen...

I reckon the crux mantle on this pitch would be much harder if you were short.

A 0.8 totem would've been better for the mentioned slot, and you could get an ornamental micro into the glued on flake too I guess.

It might also be easier to place the cam after moving past the slot, rather than before.

If linking 1 & 2, the risk of the second swinging is quite low as you're essentially walking for all but the last meter of the traverse.

3 15 Trad lead by Robert Hartley

Stellar finger jams the whole way up with enough sinker wires to (almost) make up for the overwhelming lack of gear on the first two pitches!

4 15 Trad lead by Robert Hartley

Cruise jamming and ledge hopping. Decent gear where you need it.

5 15 Trad lead by Robert Hartley

A fun little pitch in its own right, with a stellar keyhole wire placement right at the start of the crack.

Wasn't expecting a bolted belay here, but I'll take it!

Trad 73m Mt Tibrogargan Classic Sat 10th Jun 2023
Spectacular! I thoroughly enjoyed this route, far more than I was expecting to. The position is outrageous, the moves are cruisey, and bar the first two pitches, the gear is great!

I'm grateful to Yim for leading the first two pitches, and showing me I could do the same. I look forward to returning to tick them on lead myself.

Gear

A single rack was perfect.

  • 00-5 (DMM)
    • You could fit a 6 right at the start of p3 if you wanted to
  • Wires
  • #4 BD Hexentric (MVP imo)
    • DMM Wallnut 7 or 8 might work
 
820 points
13 Blabbermouth VS - with dre Trad 22m Mt Tibrogargan Very Good Sat 19th Aug 2023
Brilliant lead by Andre! His first actual trad lead.

 
757 points
13 Blabbermouth VS - with Angie Trad 22m Mt Tibrogargan Very Good Sun 22nd Jan 2023
Still haven’t done the direct start, but this pitch is hard to beat.

 
664 points
16 Guam - with Alex Trad 14m Mt Ninderry Don't Bother Mon 4th Oct 2021
Very dirty, not worth it even if you’ve hauled your rack all the way up the approach.

The top out ledge which hides the anchors was covered in a ferny mat and prevented placing snake pro. This mat is now at the bottom of the crag. Had to traverse right onto Pitcairn at the obvious seam. Was on doubles so easy enough to protect.

Got taken out by a skinny tree, broke a branch off on the way down.

 
543 points
16 Blabbermouth - with Amy Chan
1 12 28m lead by Robert Hartley
2 16 34m lead by Robert Hartley
3 16 33m lead by Robert Hartley
4 13 20m lead by Amy Chan
5 14 28m lead by Robert Hartley
6 13 32m lead by Robert Hartley
Mixed trad 180m, 6 Mt Tibrogargan Very Good Sat 25th Jun 2022
Back to lead the route!

Gear beta: A single rack is sufficient, if you must bring doubles make them micros. Swap out the #5 (DMM) with a big hex.

Rap beta: If on 60m doubles, I’d recommend descending by linking 7-6, 5-4, 3-2, 1. On a 60m single you’ll have to rap each pitch.

 

Showing all 24 ascents.

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