Ascents in Queensland by Kurt Doherty

Cleaning gear after Tom's send. Had to work for it at the anchors—this thing still packs a punch!

After a decent break, I tied back in and decided I'd just start going for proper send attempts. As it happens, I didn't fall... !!! First 27 and I'm very surprised it went so quickly, seems this style goes well on me—huge props to Steve, Reido and co for dishing out such good beta the other day. [3]

Warming up. Conditions were amazing—cool breeze and good temps in the cave had me keen to try hard. I felt super confident about the sequencing of the route as I'd managed to soak it all up really well last time. Climbed clean to the second crux, had a decent rest to hold back the flash pump, then climbed to the anchors with a short sit at the second last bolt to play with the kneebar as it felt loose. Came down hopeful that I'd be able to link through the second crux on the next burn...

Bolt to bolt to work out the moves. Pulled them all first go, but was still getting pretty pumped hanging on every bolt. Very consistent climbing that will really push me for the send—still a lot to refine, but keen to get back on.

Warm up.

Flash attempt. Made it to the start of the crux but baulked at the small right hand crimp thinking I had the wrong hold—Tom had looked like he was grabbing some juggy undercling, so thought I'd done something wrong and off I came. Went from there top.

Pretty surprised to get it second go. Only just reeled in the move to the lip post-crux. Seriously great route! [2]

Not sure it's worth two stars—start isn't great, but it is a very enjoyable route overall with awesome exposure and seriously good length.

More reach dependent than the direct version, but still enjoyable.

Right foot pinged off the crux quite a number of times. Quality techiness.

Super fun.

FFA. Super fun—one of the best problems I did during the festival. Took about 4 attempts to work it out and send.

FFA. Climbed ground up so needs a good clean. Climbs well, but the short hand traverse on the chossy plates at mid-height ruins it—there could be other options besides them, or left by them when they inevitably come off.

Would almost certainly say this is a V1, albeit a one move wonder.

Felt tough for a V0.

About 5 attempts. Crux beta for me was starting with a high left heel hook instead of a lower toe.

Again to demonstrate beta to The Rock crew.

Couldn't pull the crux sloper move—well beyond my contact strength unless we were all missing something.

Forearms exploded. Was always going to be tall order to send this after my attempts on Madder.

Warm up and test out beta around missing jug. Opted for Tom's LH sequence despite it being a very long reach for me. Feeling weak today despite the great conditions.

Climbed smooth through to the good rest before the new sequence, but left foot pinged of before I latched the undercling. Had lots of trouble repeating those moves. Should really have looked for other options but climbed through to the chains. Frustrating.

Weak attempt. Almost came off at the first but managed to climb through to rest before the new sequence. Right hand then pinged off as I was reaching for the undercling—bah! Too tired and just couldn't pull the move. Fortunately, I opened my eyes and worked out a much better sequence—one that is way more repeatable. Worked to chains again and lowered off for another last ditch attempt.

Fought through to the jugs below the crux with much noise and desperation, recovered surprisingly well, then rushed the crux and fell Really enjoyed the fight and I actually came down stoked about how hard I had tried, despite not coming away with the send. With the jug gone, I'd say the route is even better value at 25 and I particularly enjoy the left-hand beta.

End of day lap. Just squeaked it in. Probably the best I've climbed the crux.

Utterly lost. Couldn't work out a plausible way for me to get to the pocket, let alone out to the block without simply needing to be stronger. Will have to get back on when I can get beta from someone that's done it—I'm sure it's hard, but I'm sure I was also missing a lot of finesse. Dogged out to the block and worked from there to the chains in one sit.

Outstanding at 25. Got it first go, but it really only requires two or so easy moves to link from the shield jug into Terminus of Desire's final sequence, so I definitely can't claim anything more than a redpoint for the send. It's certainly not as good as the full French Connection, but it's easier than Wet Jigsaw and probably a fraction harder then Terminus, so I definitely think it's a worthwhile route. [1]

Warm up dog to get draws on and make sure holds and feet were ticked for Tom. Still really enjoy the movement on this.

Cleaning gear from this (after Dad's onsight) and Solar Eclipse (after Mum's onsight) at the end of the day.

Cleaning gear after Mum and Dad sent.

Gear on, plus a long runner off the third to make it safer. If this was your limit, it'd be pretty dicey onsighting the runout between the 2nd and 3rd...

Thought this was a great little route. Quick run up to clean gear after Mum, Dad and Sarah all sent first try.

Decided to try this since Adam was working it. Great to get good initial beta from him and clip the chains. Felt very doable.

Another burn to try and link portions together. Clean to 3rd bolt but rushed the kneebar at the start of the crux and came off. Sorted that out and climbed clean through the crux but messed the sequence into the kneebar/backpress rest thing and sat. From there to the chains.

Proper send attempt. Clean to third again but pumped out before the kneebar that starts the crux. JJ offered up some better beta and voila, it feels more repeatable when fatigued. Clean through crux again but sat just after, then on to anchors. Stoked to make that much progress in a day and very keen to get back on it.

Warm up.

After watching Justin have an epic high-point on Wet Jigsaw, I was inspired to try again. I'd had an extended break, so felt way better this time. Arrived at the anchors, got scared about getting to the better stance and tried clipping from the crimps. Got the draw on, started to peel off, juuuuust managed to reel it in and then got the rope in and held on a little longer to seal the deal. [9]

Totally over-cooked from the "warm up", this was never going to be a good attempt. Fell early in the crux, then confirmed a better clipping stance at the anchor. Also realised I could rest just after the last bolt before getting onto the heart-break crimps. Wasn't sure I'd get back on today and cleaned my clip at the anchor. Was feeling very tempted to just take the first shot as a send...

So, this tested my ethics a bit...a "warm up" burn, I felt good after the first crux and decided to push on to the anchors. Managed to get a draw on the anchor, but proceeded to fall as I clipped it...I'm not convinced it counts given it's not a controlled clip—at any other bolt, it would be a fall, so is there an exception for anchors? Regardless, I didn't feel like I deserved the tick, so decided to go for it again.

EOD lap. Sloppy core and footwork saw me fall at the crux, but otherwise sequenced the rest well.

Made a mistake getting up to the shield that wasted energy, but still managed to pull through the main crux, rest, and then pull through the second crux, only to fall staring at the anchors in front of my face So, so close!

Climb to the crux but this time tried staying to the right. Misread the sequence and fell, but quickly worked it out—huge difference compared to the "original" beta. Also sussed out better beta for the second crux and that now feels way better too. Climbed above the last, noticed there were no draws on the anchors, so took a whipper and lowered off feeling much more confident with the route.

Draws on to test the crux—felt very hard and only just managed to pull through after quite a number of missed attempts. Didn't work out anything particularly good for clipping the chains either but happy to get to them. Decided I'd be better off getting on The French Connection instead, so cleaned the gear.

Warm up. Clean to 5th bolt, but hands were totally numb and flash pump was building, so took a rest. Remembered all the moves pretty well this time, but still felt a bit sloppy though the crux and the big throw after the 5th.

Sloppy through the crux again, then undercooked the big throw twice and fell the second time—feels long and a little blind but ultimately just have to aim higher than I think. Finished it off and lowered to the ground unsure if I had enough left to finish it off.

Just like on 'The Vallecula Groove', I really didn't expect to have the juice to pull through. Only just pulled the crux, dead-pointed the big throw, then soaked up the kneebar at the last bolt. Was still pretty marginal clipping the chains. Glad to finally clean this one up—it's definitely a good route, but I'd rate 'Terminus of Desire' higher. [5]

Warm up. Felt good so went for the send. Unfortunately my left hand pinged of the cruxy undercling 3 moves from the anchors.

Only just pulled the first crux, fumbled the last clip and then somehow managed to slide off the jug at the chains. Messy attempt and felt weak afterwards so resigned myself to the fact I wouldn't send today.

Reido and Steve were happy to let me climb again before I had to leave early, so after a bit of a break, I decided to have another burn and see what I could link. Completely expected to fall on the first crux and every move of the last crux, but somehow managed to pull through and clip the chains. Yay! [7]

Always enjoy a burn on this. Up to anchor and back down cleaning gear. Clean to the crux but didn't quite reverse it this time.