Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Enter the funky scoop fang feature, mantle the lip from the inside.

Stomp up the laid back arête.

Sit start up the crack. Lelf of Another Ned Rock.

Probably not good. The crack downhill from the big tree on the descent ramp and below the boulder. Tree belay well back.

Rune

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Odins Wolf

Sit start with hands in jugs, and not much for feet. Head up.

Stand start with left hand on arete and right hand on jug. Head up the arete.

Pleasant climbing up good rock.

Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. First climb on LH wall of the 'Slider' gully.

Start at LH side of Cave 2, up the arete on blocky holds, no protection, then easier climbing up the slab to anchors above slab. Belay option available from one of the trees in Cave 2 lhs.

Start about 10m right of Keloid at the foot of a scoop of easy angled slabs. This route is considerably undergraded and underprotected. Additionally, all former belays are now effectively absent. Proceed with caution, or better yet, not at all.

1. 36m Up the slabs and diagonally left across the top side of a gully. Continue on leftward trend until steepness eases to worn slabs. Continue on up to the left for another 4m into a gully and dodgy (e.g. non-existent) tree belay.

2. 18m Climb back down and traverse directly right along small ledges to piton below groove. Continue right and slightly down for 3m to twin pegs. Rusty and not recommended as a belay.

3. 29m (crux) Left a bit, then straight up to base of groove. Up this with adequate pro to sloping rock and tree belay. From here, scramble up and left to connect with Caves Route.

A great, easy 135m multipitch route although pro can be pretty sparse on p2&3 and non-existant on p5. A good initiation to what to expect from Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 60m rope.

Start: About 50m L of Candy Mountain at big corner/gully, behind a rock apron. Marked 'BO' (very faint).

★★ Black Orpheus 10 - "BO"

1. 30m (7) Very easily up gully on solid jugs and good pro to big ledge and trad belay.

2. 25m (10) Up rocky corner/slab (right of ledge) Then left to mount short wall (crux), onto slab & up this gully (R) with a couple of bushes offering protection to big ledge & bush belay.

   max on ★★ Black Orpheus 10 - Crux of pitch 2

3. 25m (4) Climb up edgy slab in an exposed position with minimal protection until it curves back left & you reach a tree-lined ledge above. Scramble up L to the top of the ledge. Originally, the belay made use of the "Zombie Tree", however it is preferable that modern ascents make use of gear in groove about 5m above to establish a belay and protect this historic but weary flora from further abuse. You can choose to run pitch 2&3 together, beware that you may be out of earshot of your belayer. This pitch requires a cool head: exposed pitch & minimal pro!

4. 32m (10) Run-out start, then bridge up chimney (crux), which is better than it looks (very good gear), at top LH side of chimney, traverse L along the rising ledge and into corner, follow this up right over blocks to top of gully & crack & tree belay.

5. 23m (3) Up very easy blocky slab (no gear) to big tree in Cave 3. (Some choose to run pitch 4&5 together, on a 60m+ rope, be aware you WILL be out of earshot.) Finish up the 'Caves Route', or descend via rap station at mouth of Cave 1. Alternatively, you can climb (on belay) over to the chains on Zeitgeist & abseil down this to get back to the start of the route.

Start about 20m right of Black Orpheus. Fairly contrived.

1. 25m Up an open rock gully to a tree belay.

   Bruce Schneider on ★ Orpheus 10 - Orpheus pitch 1

2. 29m (crux) Trend right over a horrendous flake, then diagonally up right, to tree belay.

3. 27m Up slab trending right for gear, or straight up (very run-out), to a line of small steelwood trees. Left along dirt ledge to the face right of Black Orpheus chimney & tree belay. This ledge is the same as the end of BO pitch 3.

4. 28m Up onto the wall right of the chimney. Traverse rightward around to rubbly gully. Up this gully (LHS is the better option), to a tree belay.

5. 40m Finish as for the fourth pitch of Prometheus 1 up in Cave 4.

Climbs the white streaked slab 3m L of prominent corner, just L of Prometheus I. Crap pro, good rock.

Climb the prominent corner you pass on you way to the start of Prometheus I. Good gear and ok climbing but you end up climbing through an unpleasant bush to top out, hence the name. Continue up or scramble down Prometheus I. Named but FA not listed because it has probably been climbed heaps of times since the 1960s!

A great beginner crack route - perfect for practicing placing trad. Follow the curving crack just to the right of 'Armageddon' to that route's bolt anchor.

Follow the cliff line past 'Black Hole' for about 80m. Start at the black tree half a metre back from the cliff. Marked "SD".

Follow the line of 5 BRs trending L (more so after the 4th BR) to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB.

Start 5m R of 'Breakaway'.

Up wide crack then trend L up slab to finish as per 'Breakaway'.

Start at the end of the 'Acid' ravine.

Awful chimney.

Start at the 'Present And Accounted For' anchor.

Traverse R and up to finish at the 'Absentia' anchor. No protection.

Marked 'RS'. Well named. Easy groove at far R of crag.

Marked 'ML'. Up the crack, over the small bulge and up to top.

Marked 'AT'. Pillar to sinuous thin crack, then past vegetation to steep juggy top.

Start 5m L of 'Acid Dropper'. Climb the big jugs, slinging them for pro, and trend slightly right to below second smooth red slab and BR. Up slab easily to top with no pro. Belay on DBB. Limited pro.

Start: As for Pockets Of Fun. Up to big ledge, then climb a bit Right and up to first FH a few metres up. Then up on good pockets to chains, passing another 2 FHs.

5m right of last bolted route "Bug off". Climbs past dodgy flake to high pockets, finishing at a tree belay on a vegetated ledge.

Better gear and climbing than it seems from the ground. Take a size 2 & 3 camalot to protect top section, and a sling on a low knobby jug protects the main climbing.

2016 route description: 230m from the base of the mountain to the top of the shoulder.

Start: Starts about 400m R of Mr Busy pillar near the southern end of the west wall. The beginning of the route is painted with a very small WB mark. Up zigzagging over easy rock for 70m or so and bush-bash up through low scrub and over bands of rock to find the line of least resistance to reach the big ledge below the rock face (this is the ledge that serves the Underworld routes). Walk to the right at the end of the ledge, the first pitch was marked with a white arrow but we think is now worn off.

1. 30m Up a gully to a vegetated area. An alternative to this section is to chimney up a fissure 7m to the left, walk up and right for about 20m, then up into another vegetated ledge to the base of a clean rock face with a tight chimney on the right and a gully on the left. A distinctive feature here is a white triangle on the rock just few metres above. Tree Belay.

2. 30m Climb the gully on the left up to a ledge then keep on going up a chimney with a hard move past a slabby wedged block to a bulge. Belay on gear below the overhangs (2 big hexes and a #4 cam).

3. 10m Traverse left past a rusty piton and downclimb with care to a gum tree at the base of the main chimney leading to Shell Rock. Belay from the gum tree. Short pitch to avoid rope drag.

4. 20m Up the dirty small chimney with hard moves below a twin groove gully. Tree and gear belay.

5. 29m Up the left groove (choss and mud), cross over and in through the front door of Shell Rock. Belay slinging doors and features.

6. 20m Out the back door of Shell Rock then up and into a broken chimney and slightly right on thin slabs to a ledge and Belay Chains.

From here bush-bash for another 20m or so to the top of Beerwah west shoulder and walk along the ridge, skirting left around the knob and across to the hikers route. The old description can be found on the Qurank guide.

Alan Frost, Dave MacGibbon 1956

Follow line of right trending bolts to chains. The first bolt is an Allen head, and watch the loose blocks above the 4th bolt. Rap off down "The Nut".

Start two ridges west of the Central Rib, at the base of the large, clean wall on the south face. Up left to a sloping ledge. Traverse leftward under an overhang to a grassy ledge. Up a rather water-worn groove to the right of a corner. up rightward over slabs to a projecting rock, right of an overhang. Up the slabs below the overhand and then up the groove and into a cave. Out of the cave to a crack on the left of an overhang.

Start: about 5m left of ITOS, at a vague line of weakness, below the start of the overhanging blocks at the top. Easy climbing with spaced gear. Up to DBB & rap.

This is an old school grade 10, runout, with poor gear in the lower half, treat it as a 12. Start:

1. 35m 10 Roughly 10m left of WAD, at the shallow, right facing corner & cracked block. Up to this, offering some gear, then up slab above on scant gear, to blocks & vegetation, through this, up slab to headwall & continue through the roof, then trend right to a small ledge & tree belay (still there? 52yrs later?).

2. 45m 10 Up through roof & onto slab above & easier territory (no indication given as to belay options here).

About 1m left of Mistaken Identity: thin crack or weakness in the rock. Up this, with no gear, to top, then traverse 2m right to rap anchors on MI. The original ascentist graded it at 10. I would take that with a grain of salt, especially given that there's no gear or protection on it. Bold Climbing.

Start at left of ledge. Scramble up in front of tree, then continue up top section of Mountie Hunter. Might be a good beginner lead.

Sketchy corner at the far south of the wall. Climbed as access to top.

Sit start on crimps. Work you way up the juggy goodness.

Sit start up the crack. Finish matched on good hold.

Sit start up the corner, traverse left before finishing matched on good hold.

Used for quick access to the upper section of the Boiling Pot. Many a tourist have attempted to make a quick exit only to find one's self on the Walk Of Shame back to Tea Tree Bay.

Start at 'By Ignorance'.

Not really a traverse but an easy L-tending scramble up to the 'Bufo Marinus' anchors. Often soloed to set up a top rope on 'Bufo Marinus'.

Start 1m L of 'Diagonal'. Marked "SH".

Now retrobolted as an easy beginner's lead. First bolt is easy to reach but high and move near the top is hard for the grade so more a lead for competent climbers learning to lead rather than outright beginners. 3 RBs to DBB.

Start 2 m R of 'Spooge In A Glove'. Climbs the L trending ramp to anchors (shared with 'Spooge In A Glove'). 3 RBs.

Start at 'Spidermonkey'.

Nice beginner trad lead with good pro following the crack just R of 'Spidermonkey'. Finish at the 'Spidermonkey' DBB. Named after KP's well-known mascot - Proude's dog, Tash. (T.A.S.H)

Start 10 m right. Up arête on right side using good holds all the way. Avoid the swing around the left side of the arête. Anchor from 2nd and 3rd balusters.

Start 2 m right. Up blocks to a good stance. Mantle the ledge on the right and scramble out. Now fully bolted with practice anchors halfway.

Start 3 m right. Up the overhung arete to stance. Continue up an easy wall to a crack in the headwall. Finish easily up this.

The further right you go, the easier it gets.

A fun 100m long traverse in an incredible location.

Start at the entry of the obvious deep ravine, climb 2m up the RHS arete and keep traversing right, keeping 1 to 2.5m high all the way to the manky end of the wall, going through some interesting overhanging moves.

The rock is crumbling in places on the surface so look for big holds.

Climb 'Rust Off', then traverse the whole wall to your left. with feet 1 metre below the top. Use top as jug holds. Once you reach the far left, traverse in the same manner back to 'Rust Off', and then downclimb. A very easy problem with huge exposure.

Straight up through the overhang, keeping just right of the edge.

Short but good. An interesting chimney and jamming problem featuring great protection throughout. A tricky move to exit adds spice to life!

A classic of the chimney style and a must do if you're into that sort of thing. The dark chimney to the left of DWHP. A challenging lead for the novice climber. Despite reputation the climb offers good placements the whole way. Make sure to extend gear below large block (crux) at half height followed by a run out section if you don't have a #6 cam or big bro. 30 meters to top out.

1. (6) 40m Scramble up gully/face to the tree on the ledge at base of North Wall. Protectable if needed.

2. (10) 60m Follow the corner/slab up to the top. Some good gear if needed with easy and surprisingly enjoyable climbing. Very comfortable scramble or freesolo on good rock with some fun exposure. Would be a fun alternate finish for Logans Ridge!

PS - Super fun views and some really beautiful/interesting rock on the wall above this route. Could protect this climb with just some slings and a few nuts. Highly recommended for any veteran Barney adventurer or capable bushwalker looking to spice things up :~)

An easy two pitch at the left end of the main face to the first verandah.

1. -m (10) Up a groove to ledge and good tree belay.

2. -m (10) Left and up groove to tree belay on first terrace.

Up easy slab past 3 FH to chains.

Start: Left of "Maggies Dummy Spit".

Start: On the RHS of the BD pillar.

From the top of the pillar, up the off-width, passing the overhang on the LHS.

Short & sweet, but pleasant climbing.

1. 10 36m - up corner into body jam crack, awkward, then up rib to good ledge.

2. 3 91m - wander aimlessly to the top. Difficult if done while screwing ears or eating lunch.

The second corner going right. Again, follow L corner crack for about 10m, then scramble across vegetation to short, two-sided corner. Finish up to Intacto tree. Not much to write home about.

Start at the big "P" on the back of Egg Rock. Good off-width training with large gear. Rap tree/bush on top.

Left side of the rock (left of the Fried corner). Up the obvious crack, then out left onto rib & up this to top. Nice adventurous climbing in an exposed position.

Up between the two buttresses, the obvious jam line. A somewhat mank affair - needs cleaning up to be enjoyable.

The manky corner 2m L of Dream Run. Up to the cave & over the blocks, then up the gully to the tree at Echo Point. Not very inspiring.

Pleasant climbing up an easy crack. Take the central "hole".

Marked "DB" - Right of Delilah. A body chimney.

Squirm up the body chimney with good, clean body jambing technique. A chockstone a little over halfway offers the only protection.

A thin, jagged crack, Right of WW - an alternative start to Wenches Waist:

Up crack to WW, then up the body chminey.

A flaring body-leg crack next to Thwack.

An arm jamb, crack corner. A nice exercise in arm jambing.

A chimney with a block in it.

A series of two body cracks behind a pillar next to the cleft. Up cracks to ledge, then up chimney to top.

1. 23m (14)

2. 17m (12)

3. 11m (12)

4. 18m (11)

1. 16m (14)

2. 22m (14)

1. 32m (11)

2. 25m (11)

Start 10m L of Caves Route. Joins Caves Route after P1 from left

Climb I'm Lichen It past the anchor and continue right for another 2 bolts and an anchor. Pitch 2 trends right and provides access to the Summit Wall.

Rightward traversing line, 3 bolts to the anchor.

Three BR then a long run out to a BR anchor. Walk off.

Walk a further 80 metres right from Squeek Kills Rats until a small cairn is found at the mouth of a long gully. Straight up from cairn to top. No runners. FA (Solo)

Up the mank while picking the ferns out of your beard.

This is the boulder's descend and has perfect jugs.

Line of bolts directly above the first belay station. Links up to shared anchor with Black and White.

at limestone and not bolted

Start both hands on far right hold. Traverse up left on small crimpy holds in/on the crack. Starts at athletes foot and ends at the top out of arbitrary jugfest. ONLY CLIMB AT LOW TIDE!!

Climb the wide manky crack and finish by scrambling up the gully.

Short climb with some interesting moves. Start is a few metres to the left from the bottom of access path. Anchor off the large tree stump at top of access path. FA on top-rope solo.