Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Start 20m right of Adventure Gardeners

Scramble up to right hand side of vegetated ledge, then scramble left to slab with lots of peeled flakes.

Named in honor of Mr Ousbys massive bruised buttocks obtained from a 8 meter fall on the first attempt at the route. Lovely purple blue and yellow. A fantastic effort by Hamish in establishing this route ground up on sight, placing bolts whilst hanging on for life. Destined to be a mega classic test route. Can be a bit run out in places.

1.55m Start is a very tenuous slab so it may be best to stick clip the first bolt.

Smear and edge up slab always trending slightly left. Passing 5 bolts to DB belay.

2 40m

Continue up and left of vegetation to steepening buttress above, move diagonally left past bolt then up crack and corner till able to step left to DB belay

3 55m

Climb right over crack to gain slab on steep buttress. Place a cam blindly in crack on left. Get your belayer to confirm that it is placed well.(this will let you know if you are good friends.) Up wards passing 4 bolts and gear till able to pull into cave at end of pitch. Room for 2 to bivy if your belayer proved there friendship earlier!

4 10m

Its all over. (Well sort of )

Out of cave hand traverse left for a few moves. Then up easily on loose shattered blocks.

Bush bash up hill till tourist track is met at right side of organ pipes then down the horror of the tourist track fielding questions all the way back to car

ALL ROUTES LISTED L TO R.

Open project. Stemming up to crackline.

Follow track to Turtle rock, as you walk past first face you come to notice large obvious crack, unbolted, first accents? could use trad or set up toprope. Difficult finger crack start that gets easier as you go up before easy top out.

On the L of the seaward side of the boulder and a couple of metres L of Twin Paranoia. About 2 bolts required up the short scooped face and overhanging blunt arête.

Starts 6m L of OOA. Up through small roof and up superb stone on the headwall passing a fixed thread to lower off.

The devil will meet you here! Climb the offwidth to the left of AOD to cave. Go right and up flake then continue straight up the wide crack to trad belay in cave.

Start 3m L of 'Olos'. Marked "SG".

Tend R up thin face past high RB to ledge and 2nd RB. Continue up cracked face (small wires) and top out.

At the back of the Lower Amphitheatre (there are over 10 routes). The first route to go through to the Upper Amphitheatre.

A short little variation of DOTJ. Instead of climbing the short organge corner, climb the R underside of the ear shape that makes the R wall of the corner. Not much better, and pretty contrived.

Start is found by walking 50 m past mosquito wall. Track heads away from apron and when it ascends back up to rock apron walk left up tongue of vegetation to gain rock.

Quite the adventure was had on the first ascent. Ground up on sight, with a 10 meter slide on the descent by Tony Barten which was fielded by Hamish Ousby who then joined in untill the slide was arrested. (Note, descent is slippery in the rain.)

1 80m. 4 runners

Startup slab towards bushes. Break out left to avoid the bushy gully. Up steepening slab. Boldly looking for runners, at about 30 meters a runner appears. Continue straight up on crossly flakes and nonexistent foot smears for a bit. When all looks, bad remember the rule, climbers do not cry. Continue towards vegetated ledge, moving left at last instance, crossing water polished holds to gain vegetated ledge. Runners are noticeably lacking. Belay on nonexistent gear above vegetation.

2 30m

Move belay up to next island of vegetation. Easy climbing, no runners, no bolts, no belay, no fun.

3 55m.

Up the water polished slab moving left to bottom of crack. Gently up start of crack passing block balancing in bush. Try not to let it drop on your belayer on the imaginary belay below. The crack offers up a good runner above the block just as the the rock gets friable. A few jams, some lay backing, some edging gets you well above your runner and into the crux. Remember the rule, climbers do not cry! Struggle up the off widthy, chimney, thrutchy crack thing, for a bit until a handy chock stone presents itself which you can sling. Unfortunately, the top of said chock stone is just sitting there waiting to be dropped on the belayer on the imaginary belay. Remember Climbers DON’T CRY. Once past this continue up to second tree where a bomb proof runner was excavated from the dirt filled crack. You will see why you do not belay at first tree.

4 45m.

Up crack on the left with a good runner. Think its over. Ha! Move up slabs till able to place a runner. Now continue up the slab. It gets a bit thin, friable and that runner you thought was so good before now gets hard to see as it fades into the distance. Remember that rule from the previous pitches? Continue onwards. Soon the angle eases, the holds get better the climb ends. The runners still do not appear. To get off walk bush bash up ridge above till tourist track is gained.

It is actually quite good.

Contrived, straight up the grey wall on the right side of Cardiac Arete to a large break, up right onto ledge. From here to top.

10m L of Raptor. Follow the major weakness up the middle of the steep black slab, then move through a small roof to a natural belay. Escape via IT.

If you wish to log this climb, please do as at Odin II. This climb was regraded to a 21 after the "magic block" was dislodged in June 2017. Odin remains as a historical relic, to record the ascents of those who did it during the "magic block" era.

This classic climb used to be the test piece for all budding rock gods in the 1970's. Up the initial orange crack system to a stance below the "magic block". A tricky move above this into a narrow groove. The hand and fist crack above keeps you puffing the whole way! Hard for the grade.

Take care with all the hanging blocks in the vicinity of the roof.

The first crack at the left end of the cliff. Up crack, then up the face on the right, past the bulge to tree belay.

Start at the arête right of Snake Skin Crack. Up passing four bolts. Small cam after second bolt. number three friend in a pocket to right of small roof just below top. Move left to finish

It starts about 30 meters right of Legends out of Time at a long leftwards leading ramp. Scoot up the ramp past a bolt to a thread runner. From here traverse right past some big blocks and two trees to a steep corner and a second bolt. Finish up the technical corner to a dodgy tree belay that is now backed up by a bolt. Rap off. The bolts were placed by Zac on lead after Hamish had already climbed past without bolts.

Superb climbing up the prominent crack right of GGG. Start up GGG and then at 5m head up right into a corner to a roof. Traverse out right to a juggy crack splitting the bulge. Up this to a little niche and then up and left to finish.

A stunning climb with lots of pro. Start at the obvious crack (left or right) and follow to easier ground. Easy slab finish. Two tree belay. Possible to set up a belay at ledge just before slab.

Short and punchy pressure crack system. Starts higher up and across the gully from Freeloader. Takes entirely small wires and cams with lots of thin face climbing. Add it to the list for your trad day at Sanctuary.

An absolute classic test piece locking and jamming problem. A hard start gains a stance at 2m. From here, climb the unrelenting corner with excellent gear, stances and locks. Keep plugging and moving like a punch-drunk boxer, as the lactic acid build-up ever so surely creeps up on you. There are just enough stances and holds to keep you from being reduced to a whimpering mess. A DBB can be found above the ledge as you top out.

Thin crack, 2m r. of Skylark. Very thin crack, easier than it looks.

Climbs the black groove about 10m left of A Fine Romance. Up the deep line, past some vegetation, to a desperate black v-groove finish. Finish on the ledge immediately above with the big tree.

Starts in corner move up then traverse left before roof to carrot on the arete then up past two more carrots then left to the fixed hanger bolt. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

Open project. Up the obvious crackline in the boulder.

Very easy start for first 5m (14) and last 6m is overhung with big pockets and a crack. It can be done directly (tape your hands) (23) or layback from crack (19).

A R to L girdle, but fun for a change of scenery and direction! Up SO for 5m, then step L to the 1st piton of If. Edge across Decade, and bridge with much trepidation into Odin level with the large jug and flake. Across and up into Thor, as far as the overhang, then traverse onto the Warlock Ledge and off.

The first arete encountered, about 2m R. of High Strake.

A great line that uses a corridor of good rock to weave its way through a wall of choss. Interesting and varied climbing on all pitches. Enjoy the quest.

Pitch 1 - 16 - 25m - Start up grey slabs. Pull through a steeper few metres and continue up slabs until orange rock and undercut crack is found. Follow this right to belay under roof.

Pitch 2 - 20 - 20m - An absolutely brilliant piece of trad climbing! Step up off belay and traverse under blank roof using finger crack and bomber pro. Pull out of the roof and up into/onto the slabby corner with more awesome pro and flowing moves. Belay on the left-hand side of massive cave/roof.

Pitch 3 - 18 - 15m - Step straight up off belay, protect your belay, before a powerful move or two through the overhang and out to the right. Up easily to belay at a tree.

Pitch 4 - 18 - 20m - Straight up from tree into finger crack that turns into offwidth in the corner. Surmount this with some difficulty. Ramble up to the final few steep moves. Top out and belay off tree 3m back from edge. Extend tree anchor back to the edge to keep rubble from falling on your 2nd.

Walk 10m lookers left to steep vegetated gully. Tatt is/was placed here. 60m rope on stretch would get you to the ledge where you will find another anchor hidden in an alcove. Rap off the pinch here. 20m rap to the ground. Lots of loose rock in the descent gully. Rap with care.

Start at "Wimps in the Gym" move left at roof then straight away climb diagonally up and right past carrot to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

Up left-facing corner. Left near the top, then up into an easy chimney. Eases after 15m.

Initialed: "V"

Up the Left facing corner. Hard technical laybacking.

History: first spotted & named by Ted Cais in '72.

Brilliant! Start up the off-width to a ledge at 4m (alternatively, you can start up HG for 4m and then step L onto the same ledge). From there up the awesome finger crack with excellent face holds and locks to a thin crux at half height. From there, up the hand and fist crack to a ledge. Go up the broken corner at the back and right to double rings. Bring second rope to get down.

Up White Heat for about 20m, then head out left.

Start up Eye Of The Tiger until about 3.5m below the obvious chockstone and at an undercling flake/pockets in the L wall. Make committing moves L and follow the flake system (small wires) to join the final moves of Two Hands Are Better Than One at the last BR on that route.

At the top of the gully: A little wall with a good fist corner in the middle.

1. 20m Up blocks for 20m to ledge & belay.

2. 20m Up steep RH crack from the ledge.

Can be done in one pitch.

This climb has some really nice moves on it. Unfortunately, it also has a huge loose boot-shaped rock at 1/2 height. The loose rock and poor pro continues above this. Flop onto the same ledge as for TGBBGPM. Although it looks like a classic, there are far better options on either side!

Hand-crack & face climbing, about 2.5m R. of White Heat. Poor rock in the lower half, easier but run-out in the top half.

Start right of big cave.

1. M20 Up and left pulling on bolts as much as possible to semi hanging double bolt belay on arete.

2. Follow flake on left moving left at top of flake onto face. Left and up face passing two bolts until able to move back right to arete easily. double bolt belay.

3. Up corner then face to a continuation corner. Average gear. Some good gear in corner to lichen covered ladges then final corner to top. Belay off tree back from edge 3 meters.

Up technical face (slightly slabby) passing 3 bolts (Coeur Pulse) to (2 x Coeur Pulse).

Requires 5 x Petzl Coeur Pulse 12mm

1. Cool moves pulling onto the arete and up tiered face followed by some thin moves on each bulge.

2. Unprotected scramble up to corner, then plenty of good placements to single bolt anchor and natural pro.

Just another brilliant Cania face climb. Starts left of the belay below a bolt. Very steep and sustained. The hardest moves are low down. Contains 4 bolts but take a trad rack and a good hand full of slings.

A slabby adventure. Start as for Holiday to the pedestal. Step across the void to the R (FH) and crank up to the slab (crux). Now delicately up the slab passing two more FH's.

Absolute class! This fine sweeping corner is one of the best routes on the cliff. The climb offers magnificent bridging and laybacking, with strenuous thin hand jams and locks just to make your day! Superb protection the whole way settles the nerves... a little!

First 20m or pitch; as for Minute Man, then the second half up the perfect fist crack corner to top.

A three star route!

This daunting line is simply magnificent. Up the twin cracks on locks and jams that would leave a poet short for words. From here, continue up to where the cracks merge to form a single, steep, fingers to fists crack. A hard move to the ledge provides a classic sting in the tail.

The crack just left of the arete & r. of the dead gumtree. Up the crack to the first small cave, then up to the 2nd cave. Head out right at the overlap, around the face & join Fidelio at it's 4th bolt. Small gear & easier climbing to top & chains. Bold climbing: requires a cool head.

More steep sustained climbing on excellent rock. Contains 4 bolts but take a trad rack (wires and cams up to BD #2). Two bolt belay on a ledge 7 metres from the top.

As for S but keep traversing R to the thin crack and up it.

Wander (probably roped) up gully right of Condor towards top of MPFC belay at base of left facing corner. Up this, then up finger crack and offwidth (which you can't see from the ground), left of the orange corner of Fawlty Towers. At ledge, step out right up finger crack. Scramble up to lookout to get off.

Located above the long ledge above Monkey on a String VS. 5m R of "Mary-Kate". Up the open corner to reach a rest. The crack then widens to allow hands. Belay at a ledge. Escape as for "Mary-Kate".

Start: At the flakes 6-8m R of Magician behind small tree.

1. Grovel up the flaring vegetated off-width (nasty start), and into chimney, then more grovelling up this. Step back L into the crack proper and follow to small niche above. Climb thru this & follow steep cracks to below loose flakes, up these & belay on loose pillar.

2. Climb corner & down L to TB and rap.

Not as good as the previous 2 routes. Although the actual moves are fantastic, there are far too many loose blocks and holds to make this climb enjoyable. Dodgy pro can also be found in abundance; if you're into that stuff, you should love it!

Up C&A Half to 2nd small cave, continue straight up the thin crack, passing a bolt on the left, & into cave. Clip the FH, out onto face & up the open book corner, passing a 3rd b.r. to chains out right.

Crap name - good climb. The scene of Lee Skidmore's brush with death (4m grounder onto back on grisly boulders). Don't let that deter you though, there is bomber pro. Starts right around the corner from the above two routes, about 15m from S. Up the overhanging layback crack then L to arête (BR). Up L side of arête past another BR and some natural pro in pockets to ledge. Finish up the short face behind (BR). Mind rope drag, or use two.

Really good, but very short. Boulder up the shallow corner on small gear to the ledge. A few moves up the grunty corner take you to the next ledge. Carefully up loose gully to DMEG anchor or a short down climb to some rap trees.

A fantastic route on mostly excellent rock. Take trad gear. Avoid it in Spring if peregrine falcons are nesting on it. Pitch 1 (20). Bolt off ground to start. Follow line up wall past 4 more bolts. Trend diagonally left around a bulge and head up to belay below the big roof slot. Pitch 2 (20). Up through the slot then make an awkward move to gain the wall above. Place gear whenever you can because it might just be your last piece. The final tenuous moves onto the slab are a little run out.

"To the left of Tough Mamma is Dragon Woman 20, by Kevin Pearl & Fred From, which goes through a small roof." (Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977)

The thin crack immediately Left of Little Queen. Up this, through the small rooflet.

Dangerous and crappy. The small face directly above the finish of HR. Wobble up the crappy wall on broken holds and dodgy pro. It looks good, but isn't.

The face just left of Thunderflash. Bold up to the first carrot at 6-6.5m (hard to spot from ground), small gear to 2nd bolt at 12-13m, past 2 more bolts, then easier climbing & small gear to chains on C&H.

Line going through steep orange overhang crack next to the offwidth. Climb on to ledge then blast into finger crack to overhanging boldge and finish up on finger crack to tree belay. Rap dowm Five Bells tree.

Starts in the same ravine as 'Claustrophilia', at it's opening - hidden above the vegetated corner 15-20m R of 'Trench Tactics'. To find the ravine either climb up the easy slab from below (dodgy trad), or walk to its top from above 'The Cave (closed)' and rap down.

Stickclip 1st FH then use tree to gain start jugs. Up past 2nd FH, #1 or 1.5 SLCD placement and 2 more FHs to rap station.

The super thin finger crack to the right of DMEG. Short and pumpy, the difficulties are over within a few moves. Rap as for DMEG.

Start as for original 'Radioactive Cheerio'.

Climb up to 2nd BR as per the original route, then, instead of traversing R at 2nd bolt, climb straight up the headwall past a FH. Continue up cracked pillar with natural pro to top. Big reach and balance move.

Just left of 'Grum on the Bound'. Undercut start and pumpy.

The nice handcrack leading to a ledge and offwidth to the right of Elastic Rurp. Big gear essential if you don't want to run it out above the ledge and manky old pin. The 'elegant solution' to the offwidth mentioned in Andy Martin's description probably involves some kind of prancing about on edges like a sport climber. This sort of thing can be avoided with good old fashioned thrutching and struggling.

First crack of 4 on this face. Classic thin finger crack & face climbing. 2m r. of Fidelio.

The beautiful thin hand and finger crack about 2 m left of the corner. It finishes at a belay station below the imposing orange headwall.

Crack 8 meters right of PL. Thin crack with slaby mid section. Natural gear belay and rap back down from Five Bells tree.

One move to a BR, then up and swing L around arête to pockets (FH). Crux moves above this (?) up the blank arête lead to a break and another BR. To finish, "let's bail" off to big tree on R to avoid the mank.

Start: The arête 5m L of corner.

Straight up the perfect vertical finger crack to large ledge then move left and up arette to top. (Bridge from crack to the arette without climbing onto the large ledge for a slightly harder climb)

Crappy and dangerous. The corner found on the L side of the dark buttress to the R of DSEB. Up this and then traverse off L.

Good face climbing up the broken orange wall. Protection is spaced. Climb off left to anchors of Pixel Princess.

3rd of the cracks on this face, 2m r. of Ready. Up crack on good gear & holds, to tree, then FH.

An old school classic, definitely not recommended for sport climbers. You will need to watch out for the odd loose flake and hollow block, not to mention the big sandy cave. This is the deep line that goes straight up the middle of the high, pale orange wall about 100m right of Firefly. Climb the steep groove past a short desperate layback section until you find yourself in the sandy cave. Bridge around the huge capstone, which has an ancient rap sling wrapped around it, and mantle onto a welcome ledge. The climbing steps up a gear here. Crank upwards on widely spaced holds and good gear to a good stance. Take care on the last moves into the belay cave as they are thin and quite run out. Rap off bolts. A second pitch awaits.

Start up the offwidth to the right of Hunter Gatherer. Bring big cams up to arm you for the mini-wrestling match that you're about to endure. Strenuous smooth off-widthing climbing the outside of Narrow is the Way.

Well protected climb with steep hand jamming finish up splitter crack! U bolt anchor.

Go up "What She Said" till break then step left to finish up the last 3 meters of "What He Said". (A easier variant to the two lines.) Natural gear belay and wrap down from five bells tree.

Marked BAM. Four BRs and optional nuts to chains (straight up). A LHV was also climbed a month later.

Start: 3m L of arête