Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Traverse the lip of the boulder to the high point.

Sit start on juggy flake, up the arete.

From ground level scramble 4m up to ledge with good shade, the climb starts here. A few pieces of gear will lead you to 3 FH and DBB, best to extend the belay to the better ledge. This is an access route to the Chossageddon and Choss Monster.

An ugly chimney!

Start at R end of pillar. More easy fun climbing. 4 UBs and lower-off.

Up crack, tend right around bulge then left to anchors. Watch for rope rub on the way down. Shares anchors with Rail Mc Railface

Up bulge to gain small ledge and clip first bolt, up fun features to anchors.

Sit start on the left hand side of Diamond traverse up and right to top out.

Start as for Bio-orgasmic Plasma Gun, traverse left at the ledge, then up the off-width. Top out and tree belay.

Up R side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off shared with OL.

Start at the same U-bolt as for Snake Charmer but veer right Keeping right of black strip. 7 U-bolts to Double U-bolt belay.

Start around the corner from 'One Legged Dog', on the right side of the small cave.

Follow 6 U-bolts to the DUBB of OLD.

Alright pro with an exciting topout before clipping the Anchor. Uses Sun Chaser's lower off.

Start: About 1 meter left of 'Sun Chaser', straight up the crack.

6m right of Via the Rainbow. Climb pockets to ledge. Up face to slopey exit. Poor pro. More of a solo. Anchor off gumtree.

The obvious finger crack 20m from the road. More of a protectable boulder problem than a climb.

15m L of L. Up to L of crack.

Up the orange streak 2m L of G.

Up fine seam at black streak at L end of this wall. Poor protection.

Up the sloping ramp on good holds to a set of big Brooyar rings on top.

Long (pointless?) traverse.

Start: Starts off the block at the start of The Girl Who Lives On Heaven Hill.

Top-out at abseil rings 4-6. Headwall might be a bit stiff for the grade, use extenders on the last two bolts to reduce drag if belaying a second.

Start just about 1.5m left of 'New Day Rising' in orange corner. Head straight up eventually ending at the anchor of 'New Day Rising'.

The gear is actually quite good, it takes various bits of gear including slings, nuts, hexes and small cams (to 0.5 C4), a set of tri-cams from black to red is very useful for the pockets. The gear at the start is a little finicky to find but it's there.

10m L of NDR up the juggy, lichenous slab past three FHs.

Follow the chimney up and right, with good pro in the crack at the back. Top out on right above narrow offwidth and continue up to top of hammerhead rock or set up Trad anchor in cracks.

Fantastic location at a moderate grade, apparently has a history of being used to serenade enthusiastic new lady climbers.

Start: Rap off left-side (facing in) of prow to DBB. A bit of trad gear can make the hanging belay stance a bit more comfortable.

3m L of YHIFOP, starting at rooflet with big flakes and jugs (crux). Clip two rings while moving up on jugs to third ring and good wires. Up to rooflet and fourth ring. Step L around roof and top out. Classic! Doable on RBs only, with a decent runout in the middle; make sure you're solid at the grade if doing this.

A moderate grade swim through the lichen.

Start: Rap down to tree belay at base of two arêtes.

The hand/fist crack in the corner just R of the small tree growing at half height. Top belay off solid gum trees

The layback flake just R of PCWP. The topout move is a little spicy. Takes red C4's. Belay off large gum trees.

After the first bolt try to stay to the right of bolt line.

The Rock

Memory

Thought

Angel

My Love

Rune

Rune - Sit start

Rune

Family

Air

Dragon

Rune

Rune

to find Truth

A boulder with bolts and jugs with a lower off on cliff face

Sit start on side pull and crimp, balance your way up the arete.

Sit start as per Scrambled Eggs, then traverse left avoiding the block below, top out at highest point.

Stand start on lower part of the face then climb up on juggy sidepulls to topout.

Start on the left most nubbin with excellent low feet. Straight up avoiding the flake on the left. Works well no-handed.

Sit start matched on crimp jug. Straight up using the tree knob sloper to mantle

Climb left side of slab.

Climb line to R of Brachiosaurus

stand start both hands on undercling. reach up to ledge then mantle to the top.

Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the arête. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires.

Up the slab passing ten FH's to rap station. For the descent, a doubled 60m rope will get you to a ramp where you can scramble off (care!).

Start: About 25m L of Aphelion's first pitch, just R of the access track. Marked with a small, scratched 'H'.

Start: diagonally up and to the left of the start of the Caves Route at a small flat ledge at the bottom of a series of sloping ribs, about 18m down from the apex. Marked "F". This is an exposed and poorly protected route.

This is the original 1955 description. 70yrs on, trees may have disappeared and new ones grown. Additionally; there's been significant rock fall in this area, so route finding may well be challenging.

1. 29m 13 Diagonally upwards to the right across the sloping ribs and then up onto a small ledge on the crest of an obvious nose. Slightly back to the left on downward sloping ledges to the base of a small, loose wall. Up this wall to a small Ironwood tree runner (? if still there?). Continue up the wall and then out to the right onto lightly vegetated shelf running up to the left. Ironwood tree belay (if still there?) at the left hand edge of shelf.

2. 17m 12 Directly up behind tree and into the obvious groove above. Up the groove/crack in the corner and out onto the left hand wall. Straight up over perched block to a small stance behind it. (Originally a piton belay.)

3. 12m 11 From stance, climb straight up small wall to left of crack and then ascend diagonally left over small rib. A traverse leads to the left over a series of sloping ledges for 9m to two wide, flat ledges in the middle of the face & belay. (originally a piton belay.)

4. 17m 14 Straight up the wall above for 4m, and then a delicate traverse to the left leads to the wide crevice in the corner (Patience Crack p2 belay). Step across the gap and then up to prominent shelf on the far wall & Ironwood tree belay (? if still there?)

5. 21m 9 Climb the 3m wall behind the ledge to the start of rubbishy gully. Up through the gully or out onto the left hand bounding rib (much cleaner) to large tree belay (?). From here, the exit of Carborundum Chimney is joined, and scrambling to the right eventually leads to the Caves Route.

Start: diagonally up and to the left of the start of the Caves Route at a small flat ledge at the bottom of a series of sloping ribs, about 18m down from the apex. Marked "F". This is an exposed and poorly protected route.

This is the original 1955 description. 70yrs on, trees may have disappeared and new ones grown. Additionally; there's been significant rock fall in this area, so route finding may well be challenging.

1. 29m 13 Diagonally upwards to the right across the sloping ribs and then up onto a small ledge on the crest of an obvious nose. Slightly back to the left on downward sloping ledges to the base of a small, loose wall. Up this wall to a small Ironwood tree runner (? if still there?). Continue up the wall and then out to the right onto lightly vegetated shelf running up to the left. Ironwood tree belay (if still there?) at the left hand edge of shelf.

2. 17m 12 Directly up behind tree and into the obvious groove above. Up the groove/crack in the corner and out onto the left hand wall. Straight up over perched block to a small stance behind it. (Originally a piton belay.)

3. 12m 11 From stance, climb straight up small wall to left of crack and then ascend diagonally left over small rib. A traverse leads to the left over a series of sloping ledges for 9m to two wide, flat ledges in the middle of the face & belay. (originally a piton belay.)

4. 17m 14 Straight up the wall above for 4m, and then a delicate traverse to the left leads to the wide crevice in the corner (Patience Crack p2 belay). Step across the gap and then up to prominent shelf on the far wall & Ironwood tree belay (? if still there?)

5. 32m 13 Climb the 3m wall behind the ledge. Ascend diagonally up & to the right for 4m on the leftside of crevice/crack, cross over the crack, then ascend on small holds & ledges immediately to the right of the crack (to right of overhang). Straight up trending right. Up front of nose until level with large Ironwood tree (?) in gully to the left of nose.

From here, exit up & right, across vegetated ledges above Carborundum Chimney to access the Caves Route below Trojan.

Start under the main section of overhangs, and wander up the slab to a big 'T' marker in a cosy groove. A stunning old time classic through some very imposing country. Most people look at the route and think 'How can this be a 13?'. Keep in mind that the first ascentionists climbed the route wearing sand shoes in 1966! A grand testament to the pioneers of old.

1. Head up and left from alcove with T marker. Climb confidently on slick orange rock passing some thought-provoking placements. Run-out in top section. Wires and cams for belay.

2. Another bold pitch. Walk left across ledge for about 10m and then about 4m of vertical climbing (#0.5 Friend in slot) up into cave. Rap station/belay in the back of the small cave shared with Achilles.

3. Step out of cave and climb finger crack/corner to ledge. Dizzying exposure, secure jams, great rock and bomber pro. The best pitch of the route. Optional chains exist on far right of ledge. With two 50m ropes, this provides an epic escape via one of the best free-hanging abseils in Queensland.

4. Climb the crack/corner to ledge.

5. Avoid the chimney and instead climb the sweet crack up the slab to the left. To finish, simply scramble up the vegetated scree to the top of the mountain.

This climb takes the obvious right-leading slick corner. Atmospheric climbing. Protection on the route is technical to place, and is sparse at the start so be careful not to slip off. Bring some big gear for the upper crack. Natural Belay at top. Two 50m ropes will get you back to the ground. You descend straight down over The Digital Revolution.

An easy but badly protected outing. A great adventure for the discerning choss jockey. The FA was completed (just!) in two pitches (running 1-2 and 3-4 together). Note that this was not at all comfortably done on a 70m rope - if you're going to do this as two pitches I would only recommend doing so on an 80m rope.

1. (4) 20m - First pitch as for Black Orpheus

2. (14R) 50m - Instead of mounting the short wall as for Black Orpheus, head right just under the steep wall and trend right and slightly up over occasionally horrific rock (only real landmark is a grassy tree ledge you traverse about 5m above) with a healthy dose of airiness to ledge at start of white and black streaked slab and up this for 15m to tree belay on left.

3. (10) 40m - Up right easily to tree (sling) then straight up over rotting rock to mount bulge, then trending up and right to big tree belay just below obvious chimney

4. (4) 30m - Up and right into chimney and finish in cave 4 as per Prometheus

Variant start to Cruel to be Kind. (First bolt missing) start up blocky overhanging start to second bolt then links into cruel to be kind shares anchors with DITR.

Missing the first bolt. Up on good jugs passing two FH and tree on right hand side to ledges. Then up passing another 2 FH to anchors. Often dirty after rain.

Start 2m R of More Smart More Safe, marked “ADD”

Some nice, flowy climbing through 6 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with More Smart More Safe. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

Start 1m R of Critter Christmas, marked “BK”

Jug hauling past 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Critter Christmas. A high first bolt may warrant a stick clip.

A traverse that deserves a description. First used by FA party of North-east buttress to escape the route before the aided crux section.

1. 30m (14) crux. From the "Crazy Crack" gully climb just above the DBB up the left wall (tree belay or DBB), avoiding the nasty loose block on the arete. Up and around the buttress with marginal protection and suspicious holds in a very airy and unstable scenario. Downclimb into a small vegetated gully with shrub (must not fall) and keep traversing left, on better rock, passing a bolt of the Ross Miller Route and reaching a second small gully. Break the traverse and belay from a small tree to avoid further rope drag.

2. 35m (13) Continue traversing left past 2 bomber placements (medium to small cam) and reach the broken pillar on top of cave 4 enjoying the massive exposure and unbelievable views. Place gear to direct rope and avoid running it through the death blocks. Carefully downclimb the lower part of pitch 1 of Prometheus 2 to the sign into the cave (tricky).

Start at L-trending crack 3m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

While this is nominally the variant start to 'Blabbermouth', it's so much better than the original that nearly everyone begins 'Blabbermouth' this way. Follow the crack, solid gear placements abound. Merges with the original a few metres before the DBB.

An excellent, but somewhat bold, 2nd pitch to The Black Planet. Weave up the slab above the rap anchor finding gear and holds where you can to a tree belay at the top of the wall. Excellent marbled rock in the middle. Can easily be combined with the first pitch into a single megapitch®.

A bold wall first climbed as a solo. Start 2m L of 'Armageddon'. Up slab and over small roof then traverse R to 'Armageddon' anchor. Marginal protection but nice rock.

The first known technical route on the south west corner of Tibro. This corner is bisected by a scrubby ramp that traverses diagonally up from right to left, starting under a vertical section of the cliff on the south face proper. Below this ramp, a buttress comprised of relatively clean and smooth slabs can be found, and this route takes a direct line up those slabs to end on the scrubby ramp. To find the start of the route, take the usual access track to Slider gully and bushbash around the base of the mountain. Alternatively, it is fairly easy to follow the Trachyte Circuit around the mountain until a low point on the trail with an abundance of ferns. The buttress can vaguely be seen through the shrubbery, so make a beeline through moderately dense bush to the base of the wall.

1. Up an easy, low-angled slab with abundant lichen but no gear. Tree belay.

2. Up steeper, cleaner terrain with quite decent protection. Belay from a large horizontal crack.

3. Terrain continues to steepen and gear becomes poor and sparse when it matters most. A small overlap is surmounted near the top of the pitch, after which some loose rock must be navigated to reach the ramp above.

Descent: One can scramble down to the right, although it is quite vegetated. A faint path also leads up and left, eventually connecting with the Tourist Track and a short descent to ground level.

Immediately left of the Coal Sack crack system. Follow ring bolts to the anchor.

Start 2m L of 'Lunar Eclipse'. Marked "EH".

Climb straight up right of the large loose block, then tend slightly left above this, to the DBB shared with SD. 4 RBs. Rebolted 2014.

Start 3m L of 'Event Horizon'. Marked "SD".

Follow 4 RBs straight up left of the large loose block, trending right above this, to finish at the DBB. Shared belay with EH. Rebolted 2014.

A traverse using the bolts of the various climbs.

Start at 'Black Hole', 2m L of 'Orbital Tether'. Marked "BH".

Clip the 1st bolt on 'Black Hole'. Then traverse R clipping:

• 2nd bolt of 'Orbital Tether'
• 2nd bolt of 'Nebula'
• 3rd bolt of 'Star Dust'
• 3rd bolt of 'Event Horizon'

Then up tending left to the 'Star Dust' DBB.

Start 3m left of bad move, up to bulge (med cam) in crack below bulge, then move up and slightly right with care to lose looking block (ground-fall) keep climbing place a nut in slot, then up to crack (small cam) and finish on jugs.

The original Queensland easy sport route! R of 'Charger'. Runout start to high RB then superb fishbowl jugs past a second RB to lower-off anchor on the right. When first bolted this was quite controversial (bolts on a 13!) but in the 21st century it's considered quite runout! Rebolted 2015.

Start in the middle of blank face R of Sexy Legs. Hardest moves off the ground, easier as you go up.

Start 2m right of 'Roof Climb'. Climb straight to the top staying within the band of rock covered in white lichen.

A mini-adventure fun ramble of vintage accent that takes you from the bottom of the Main Upper Cliffs to the summit proper. May well have been soloed before. The route is the most intuitive and protectable line from beginning to end. Please refrain to trundle blocks, the instability and precariousness over the exposure of some section add a great alpine-like feel to the route.

1. 15m (13, crux) Start 1m left of 'The Revenge of Chossmaster'[416785278] up to ledge and TB on gear.

2. 25m (5) Traverse up and diagonally to the right with enjoyable exposure, negotiating some death blocks and grassy ledges with fair pro for 15m then 10m up to a giant bird nest belay. TB on gear.

3. 10m (-) Traverse diagonally left past a solid steelwood tree and up to the 'Nursery Cliffs'[13454575] ledge. TB.

4. 28m (10) Start 1m left of 'LRO'[15558367] up 3m then step left on hidden juggy wall and climb up on exposed vertical face until topping out at the summit proper of Ngungun. Sling the boulders and TB.

Marked 'A'. Just L of 'Sticky Fingers' at the obvious flared chimney. Bridge smooth chimney with good (albeit small) pro in the R crack to the ledge with tree and bolted anchor or continue up 'Hex Heaven'.

Marked 'DP'. Up corner crack and good protection to ledge with chains.

Marked 'LT'. Start up the nice hand crack but this soon turns in a wide off-width. At the widest point, squeeze through the crack and chimney up to ledge. Rap off or continue up one of the crack lines above.

Marked 'UVC'. Sunscreen optional. The obvious angled off-width on the right side of the leaning pillar. Good pro and sustained climbing all the way to a tree belay.

Marked 'DD'. Pocketed corner that gets progressively easier, with one small cam placement halfway up.