Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill | |||||
14 | ★ Heated Exchange
Directly up slab L of notch past 4 FHs. Optional gear in pockets, too. FA: Darrin Carter, 2001 | 20m, 4 | |||
14 | A Bug's Life
Squash it! This was Grant's first (and only?) new route. 6m L of CB. Up easily to crescent shape corner (small wires, small and medium cams). Leave crack on exposed move to ledge (FH). Boldly over ledges above to DBBM. Worth the effort if you’re homesick for Kangaroo Point or you carried in some pro and must use it no matter what! FA: Grant LeLeve & Darrin Carter, 1999 | 20m, 1 | |||
13 | Flat And Useless
The following climbs are on the second face approximately 100m along the track. 5m R of small knee-high ledge (former flake). Was pretty dangerous, now rebolted and an extra bolt and anchor added. 3 FHs. FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox | 10m, 3 | |||
14 | ★ Connected In Series
Up BRs of "Flat and Useless", then go high L to last BR on "Eff-A-Reddy". Continue L to last on ASSOSSISS, then up to belay. Could have been the original intent for FU? FA: Mark & Ricci Churchill, 1999 | 20m, 5 | |||
13 | Eff-A-Reddy
Start above small knee-high ledge (former detached flake). Clip FH and launch onto wall. Over bump (FH) and follow jugs (FH) trending R. Then up to shared lower-off. FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox | 18m, 3 | |||
13 | ★ Candle Power
6m left of Scratchy is a line of 5 FHs to DBB. Boulder up to 1st hanger from L and mantle onto ledge using a little muscle power. Continue up wall on good holds staying L of 3rd hanger. FA: Michelle Riedlinger & Colin Carstens, 2006 | 18m, 5 | |||
14 | ★ Loaded on Lithium
3m L of Candle Power. Up short steep wall on good holds. Good warm up or for newer leaders. 3 FHs to chains. FA: Annette Miller & Natasha Laurens, 2006 | 15m, 3 | |||
14 | ★ Low Voltage
Start 4m left of NR at RH end of large ledge. Can belay from 1st bolt of NR. Follow line of 5 FHs to shared chains with NR. FA: Colin Carstens & Bernard Walsh, 2005 | 16m, 5 | |||
14 | ★ Nice Acid, Shame About The Volts
Scramble 6m up to large ledge and clip FH on LH end of ledge at head height. Up easily, staying L of dark stain passing 3 FHs to shared CB with "Electrolyte". FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox | 22m, 4 | |||
Northern Rivers Urbenville The Crown | |||||
13 | Ugly Duckling
The black, L-trending wide crack up the slab ending at a tree belay. | 20m | |||
14 | ★ Jetsom
Up the short arête clipping BR's to chain belay. FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox, 1991 | 15m | |||
Northern Rivers Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield Tourist car park (Strangler fig climbing) | |||||
14 | ★★ Stinging sensation
| 30m | |||
13 | ★★ The big leaner
| 25m | |||
Northern Rivers Angel Way Dragons Lair | |||||
14 | Purple Sun
Second and Third pitch of the Art of Meditation FFA: Za Utopia & Darius Utopia, 2013 | ||||
14 | Rainbow Robin
Memorial climb for my Mother, Robin Utopia. Flying with Angels. Fourth pitch of the art of meditation FA: Za FFA: Za Utopia & Darius Utopia, 23 Jun 2014 | ||||
Northern Rivers Cape Byron Light house Cliff | |||||
14 | Violet Crumble
Start 6m right of B.Y.S. Pull up left into the flake crack system. Follow it up then trend right to sub pinnacle. Avoiding loose rock ( pull down not out ) . Decent by sea saw abseil, or down climb Die For Gear. FA: Eric Milton & Rob Bracher, 18 Mar 2023 | 16m | |||
Northern Rivers Rainbow Rock | |||||
14 | invisible touch
small crack line on lower wall FFA: Za Utopia, 2012 | 8m | |||
14 | pixie
strange ramble. | 6m, 3 | |||
Northern Rivers Boonoo Boonoo Falls | |||||
14 R | ★★ Belvedere Route
Climbs the left side of the falls. FA: Neill Lamb, Julie Henry & Frank Theos | 180m | |||
Northern Rivers Surf Rock | |||||
13 | ★★ the beginning
Most climbs are relative to this climb. first climb in the gully.follow carrot bolts to chains. up slab... | 13m, 4 | |||
13 | Break Away
2m L of Back in Black. Follow Crack line at the top section. Some loose rock at the top. FA: Za Utopia & Darius Utopia, 2013 | 16m | |||
13 | Eagle Jets
start 10m R of MD. Up wall. Pro not great, but do able. FA: 2013 FFA: Za Utopia, 2013 | 12m | |||
14 | Jupiter Maxiumus
start 3m R of EJ. up arete though chimney. FA: Za Utopia, 2013 FFA: Za Utopia & Maxium, 2013 | 12m | |||
13 | Dragon Breath
On East face 5m R of CL. Up face. Abseil down to Start above water. FA: Za Utopia, 2013 | 15m | |||
13 | 3 eagles
2m R of Ff FA: 2013 | 10m | |||
14 | to the stars
climb wall to the chimney. FA: 2013 | 10m | |||
Northern Rivers Woodford Island See Sea Wall | |||||
14 | ★ Animals as Leaders
Good beginners lead with a tricky start. | 8m | |||
14 | S.I.S
Crux at start, then easy up hanging corner. | 8m | |||
14 | Bex Edges
| 8m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Dusk Wall | |||||
14 | Medicine Wheel
Far right side. Start 4 R of O climb up corner. Anchor long slings 2 boulders. FFA: Za Utopia, Be Utopia & Darius Utopia, 1 Apr 2016 | 9m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Twilight Zone | |||||
14 | ★ Dr Farquhar's Space Age Sleeping Vessel
Up flack and through bulge | 12m | |||
13 | When Twighlight Turns To Dark
the corner crack on left of wall FA: J. Gracie & T. Hill, 1996 | 15m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Lama Land | |||||
13 | ★★ Happy Lama
A traverse of terror leading to a balancy face. FA: Brian Cork & Ally Cork, Aug 2016 | 10m, 5 | |||
14 | ★ Sad Lama
Direct start to Happy Lama. FA: Brian Cork, Aug 2016 | 8m, 5 | |||
14 | ★★ Cruisy Susi
Super fun flake/crack up the middle of Lama Land. Bolt belay. FA: Mike Klingensmith & Brian Cork, Jul 2016 | 10m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Pooh Wall | |||||
14 | Paint Spot
3m right of WTPGHH around where there is a dish like depression half way up. FA: Bruce Jones & Clarkson Walter, 1998 | 14m | |||
14 | Brush Strokes
1m right of PS FA: Bruce Jones & Clarkson Walter, 1998 | ||||
14 | ★ Piglet Plays the Jugs (aka Pooh Scoop)
Bottomless to BR, then up black rock on gear | 14m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Motherlode | |||||
14 | ★ Toilet Bowl
The closed seam leading into the crack and bowl. Nice easy beginners climb, FA: David Wagland, 2009 | 12m, 4 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo 354 | |||||
14 | ★ Rubber Toe
| 18m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fun Parlour | |||||
14 | ★ Cold Tap
The left hand corner of the "Shower Recess". Up the corner with jugs to tree belay. The first good route climbed at the Fun Parlour (and possibly all of the Coffs area). FA: L. Dixon & N. (Dicko) Dixon, 1984 | 8m | |||
13 | Just Add Water
The right arete of the "Shower Recess". Low angle arete with one bolt and trad gear. Cruise up and right on jugs to top to a double bolt belay. FA: D. Carter & A. Donoghue, 1994 | 8m, 1 | |||
14 | Pus In Boots
This and the next route are on a short, orange section of the cliff with small roofs and caves. Imagine having pus in your boots! An overhanging arete then easy to top. FA: T. (Tadpole) Balla & L. Dixon, 1989 | 8m | |||
14 | ★ Sandcastles
The original start on the right side of the arete is about 17. However, a better start is on the left side of the arete and is more in keeping with the grade of the rest of the climb - 14. Excellent value. Straight up the arete to top, natural pro. FA: G Stewart. A. Stephens & L. Dixon, 1987 | 8m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Sherwood Buttress | |||||
13 | ★ Divorce
1m right of ‘Love and Marriage’. Up obvious chunky route to right of tree Natural pro, tree belay | 8m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Grab the Gristle Area | |||||
14 | Walking Antiques
2m right of Barn Storming. 3 bolts. FA: K. Bennett (solo), 1991 | 8m, 3 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Silk 'n' Steel Wall | |||||
14 | Punters And Collectors
About 20m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Climb the crack, lay-backing all the way. Large cams. FA: A. Stephens, P. Horn (Mongrel), J. Lewis & L. Dickson, 1991 | 12m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Whipping wall | |||||
14 | ★ Alice In Wonderland
A great little number just right of Whipping Boy. Up onto ledge then easy rock to corner then head left past a bolt to the ledge above Whipping Boy. Trad belay. FA: G. Dean & K. Harry, 1992 | 15m, 1 | |||
13 | Cave Bird
The crack 1m right of Knuckle Sandwich. Jam to cave, exit right. Small cams. FA: Dick & Party, 1991 | 10m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Killowatts | |||||
13 | ★ Chalk Eye
This climb is designed to be a novice's first lead, It is all natural with good placements for SLCD. A chain belay is waiting on a reasonable ledge FA: Bruce Jones | 10m | |||
13 | ★ Toe Wacker
NP route. Up the open book cnr crack, then traverse to line above the bolt on T. Follow the NP line taking you around the left of the face. Up to chain belay under ledge. FA: Bruce Jones | 10m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Potting Shed | |||||
14 | ★★★ Frack this Greenies
Fun first time trad lead great pro and flows really well. Up crack on the right hand side of the arete 20m right of Ready! Tree Belay. FA: Mitchell Stewart | 9m | |||
14 | ★ Doyle Glazer: animal search and rescue
Corner Crack right of Abbot Lover. Tree Belay FA: Mitchell Stewart, 16 Aug 2015 | 15m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Nymboida Gorge The Gorge, South Wall | |||||
14 | Climb Or Swim
Put up after two abseils to the river and 15 minutes of rain put the best climbs out of condition. Two obvious left leaning corners 45m high, starting at the river level at the upstream (southern) end of the gorge. The climb follows the easy corner system 40m to the left. 1st pitch (35m): Up the right veering slabs to corner, up and left to belay. 2nd pitch (30m): Follow slabs and grooves to large ledge. 3rd pitch (20m): Up the right edge of the slab to ledge. 4th pitch (15m): Easy choss to top. The photo topo is an estimated. Please update if you know where the route goes. FA: D. Baker, T. Waters, S. Dunbar & M. Nesbitt, 1996 | 120m, 4 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Sawtell Murry's Crag | |||||
V0- | Its All Ogre Now
Sit start and to the top FA: Angus Green, 20 Nov 2014 | 2m | |||
V0- | Ju-Ju
Left hand side of the most northern face of the crag FA: Hayden Stewart, 17 Nov 2014 | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Sawtell Claire's Crag | |||||
14 | Junkie
| 8m | |||
Mid North Coast Grassy Head Ripple Wall | |||||
14 | ★★ Rock Fishing Is Dangerous
Start at small corner with obvious line. Up and through small overlap to head wall where climbing eases off. Joins diagonal crack line of SWW and top-out through V-slot at obvious stance. To walk off go R along blocks and grassy ledges until you are above the main wall from where you descend as per normal down the juggy descent corner at the far R. FA: Ben Vincent (solo), 11 May 2017 | 10m | |||
14 | ★ Jelly Fish Fingers
Starts on obvious line 1m R of RFID. Follow line straight up until small overlap where line then trends L. Shares the same top-out as for RFID. Build anchor to rap or walk off R (see RFID for descent details). FA: Ben Vincent (solo), 11 May 2017 | 10m | |||
14 | ★★ Ripple Wall Staircase
Start 2m R of SWW at arête. Follow obvious blocks up arête until you reach the small wall at top. Mantle wall to then join up with SWW crack for the last 2m. Build anchor to rap or walk off (see RFID for descent details). FA: Ben Vincent (solo), 11 May 2017 | 10m | |||
Mid North Coast Hat Head Korogoro | |||||
14 | ★ Panama
1/2 way between Top Hat and the next water tanks, head right and down, to the small promitory over the little bay, to the tope-rope anchors. Panama is on the south side of the anchors Set: S. Negus on self-belay, 2019 | 10m | |||
14 | Fedora
Same anchors as Panama, but Fedora is on the north side of them Set: S. Negus on self-bely, 2019 | 10m | |||
Mid North Coast Hat Head Smoky Cape | |||||
V0- | Periwinkle
Up the centre of the slab facing the ocean, viewpoint is just to the left | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast South West Rocks Arakoon Mermaid Pools | |||||
V0- | Meh
FA: Rebecca Alexander | ||||
Mid North Coast South West Rocks Arakoon The Ledge | |||||
14 | ★ Green A
Greens A,B and C all use the tope-rope U bolts at the nth end of the ledge. Green A is on the arete just below the anchors. At low tide, rap down and climb up Set: S. Negus on self-belay, 2015 | 8m | |||
14 | Green B
About 3 m's south of Green A. Use long slings or setup rope to reduce rope drag Set: S. Negus on self-belay, 2015 | 8m | |||
14 | ★ "G"
About 30m's Sth of Green anchors, there a anchors for "G", set low FA: G. Negus, 2019 | 10m | |||
Mid North Coast Crowdy Bay Diamond Head The Boat Hole Starboard Pillar | |||||
14 | ★★ Overwhelm
The corner 2m right of Free Wobbegong. Some loose rock nearer the top, climb with caution. | ||||
Mid North Coast Boomerang Boomerang Slabs | |||||
14 | ★ Nulla Nulla
Start just left of the white streak. Follow the carrots which stay to the left of the white streaks over an overlap to the top where there are 2 fixed hangers. FA: 2012 | 20m | |||
13 | ★ Shield
Climb the carrots on the white streak, the rock is better than you think it might be. 2 fixed hangers at the top. FA: 2012 | 20m | |||
Mid North Coast Boomerang The Mollusk Ween Wall | |||||
14 | ★ Dean & Gene Ween
Interesting pockets and large cobbles. Start by hole in block, follow 3 fixed hangers up face to DBB. | 12m, 3 | |||
Mid North Coast Burgess beach The temple | |||||
V0- | pilgrim
Easy face with plenty of holds up to the cave. To get off down climb to the left in the corner. Set: Deon Heemskerk & Paul Turner, 23 Oct 2015 FA: Deon Heemskerk, 23 Oct 2015 | 4m | |||
Mid North Coast Seal Rocks | |||||
V0- | ★★★ Number One Beach to Boat Beach
When you find yourself above a narrow channel that heaves with the tide, you'll be funneled into the boulder problem. Grip the overhang and pass over the channel to the rock platform beyond. You'll be at Boat Beach in seconds. FA: | 5m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Dora Pinnacles Main Pinnacles | |||||
14 | Avon
Directly up wall, 2m left of the Battle of Rahmizies to an old carrot bolt, then follow slabby corner left to tree belay. FA: Unknown (ABARC?), 1970 | 10m, 1 | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Dora Pinnacles Sunny Side | |||||
13 | David's Hangover Direct
Climb the first pitch of David's Hangover then continue directly up the arete (devoid of protection). May now be a fully carrot'ed sport climb? FA: David Gray, Ingrid Ward & Michael Johnson, 1987 | 20m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Dora Pinnacles Dark Side | |||||
14 | Avondale Crack
The RH Corner and jamb crack start to the M1 to gully. FA: ABARC (Avondale Bush Walking & Rockclimbing Club), 1970 | 30m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Dora Pinnacles Central Buttress | |||||
14 | Carnal No-Ledge
The chimney/cleft on the dark side of the central buttress. FA: Owen Bull, Wayne Hughes & David Gray, 1979 | 25m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Dora Pinnacles Lego Land | |||||
14 | Humpty Dumpty (Variant)
| 9m | |||
14 | Pink Fluid
Short slab past 2 carrots FA: Anthony Alexander, 1998 | 5m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Secret Area | |||||
14 | Hex-n-arete
Lower slab/arete on hex bolts. | 10m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Practice Area | |||||
14 | Digital Display
Wall / slab past a letterbox slot and bolt a metre or so right of Deamon. FA: David Gray, Paul Smith & Bruce Donaldson, 1983 | 12m, 1 | |||
14 | ★ Oxymoron
Wall and overlap 15m right of Snake. Climb diagonally rightwards to gain the cave, then over the bulge past bolt FA: David Gray, 1979 | 25m, 1 | |||
14 | ★ Oxymoron (Direct)
Unprotected wall to join Oxymoron at it’s cave. FA: David Gray & Paul Smith, 1981 | 25m, 1 | |||
14 | ★ Menstration Day
Up wall 5m right of Oxymoron Direct passing 2 bolts and a small overlap FA: James Cowmeadow & Jim Gilbert, 1986 | 20m, 2 | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Turkey Walls | |||||
14 | Once is Enough
A start in the vaugue corner right of Joe’s Climb leads to the obvious chimney, the exit from which and final wall constituting the crux. FA: Andrew Martin, David Gray & Warwick Kemble, 1982 | 20m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Central Gully | |||||
14 | Easy's Hangover
Boulder up the arete with no gear until half height, to join "Centennial" FA: TR, Ian Hardon & David Gray, 1979 FFA: David Gray, 1982 | 9m | |||
13 | ★ Centennial
Climb the centre of the wall past 3 carrots, outflanking the overhang on the left. FFA: Steve Mitchell & Ian hardon, 1980 FA: TR: David Gray & Owen Bull, 1980 | 9m, 3 | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Big Banana Buttress & The Extremes | |||||
13 | ★ Shick
"A close shave", climb the juggy arete right of New Horizons, traversing left above a friend break to easier ground. Exit to the terrace. FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1982 | 18m | |||
14 | ★ Five Finger Exercise
You used to able to bridge up the tree but it's a bit harder now that the tree is dead. Move up then move left past a bolt and flake to a pocketed traverse line. Step right to a large flake, which is followed to a groove and wall to finish at the large tree. FA: David Gray & Martin Cook, 1982 | 14m, 1 | |||
14 | Plebe's Plummet
Wall past a bolt. FA: Paul Smith & Bruce Donaldson, 1984 | 12m, 1 | |||
14 M1 | Alpinist's Dream
"don't bother, the only aid climbs on the cliff and subsequent ascents will only leave scars" The first peg crack. FA: Robert Stow & David Gray, 1982 | 9m | |||
14 M1 | Yosemite
The other worthless peg crack. FA: David Gray & Robert Stow, 1982 | 9m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Stopper Walls | |||||
13 | Muska
From the start of 'Stopper' traverse diagonally left to the arete then up. | 16m | |||
13 | ★ Stopper
1
11
2
13
FA: 2: David Pickles & David Gray, 1980 FA: 1: Wayne Hughes, David Gray, Brian Davidson & Owen Bull, 1980 | 35m, 2 | |||
13 | ★ Stopper (Direct)
1
13
2
13
Alternate 1st pitch of Stopper.
FA: David Gray, Rob Gregory & Steve Farington, 1982 | 35m, 2 | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Smear Slabs | |||||
14 | ★★ Without a Lead
Start just left of DUBB on ledge. Up past 4 RBs and a flake to DBB. FFA: Dave Gray, Dan Rogers, Darrin Gray & Martin Cook, 1983 FA: 1983 | 15m, 4 | |||
14 | ★ Hang in there Baby
The hand crack in the corner / groove bounding the right hand edge of the Smear Slabs. Head left to the anchor on ABTF. FA: David Gray & Alan Martin, 1980 | 20m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Space Ape Area | |||||
14 | ★ Orangutang
The steep corner and problematic groove. | 6m | |||
Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face The Ramparts | |||||
14 | ★ Terminally in Traction
Classic right facing corner to DBB. FA: Ben Ewald & Dan Rogers, 1980 | 14m | |||
13 | Pseudo
FA: David Gray, 1983 | 6m |