Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Watagans Dora Pinnacles Main Pinnacles | |||||
14 | Avon
Directly up wall, 2m left of the Battle of Rahmizies to an old carrot bolt, then follow slabby corner left to tree belay. FA: Unknown (ABARC?), 1970 | 10m, 1 | |||
Watagans Dora Pinnacles Sunny Side | |||||
13 | David's Hangover Direct
Climb the first pitch of David's Hangover then continue directly up the arete (devoid of protection). May now be a fully carrot'ed sport climb? FA: David Gray, Ingrid Ward & Michael Johnson, 1987 | 20m | |||
Watagans Dora Pinnacles Dark Side | |||||
14 | Avondale Crack
The RH Corner and jamb crack start to the M1 to gully. FA: ABARC (Avondale Bush Walking & Rockclimbing Club), 1970 | 30m | |||
Watagans Dora Pinnacles Central Buttress | |||||
14 | Carnal No-Ledge
The chimney/cleft on the dark side of the central buttress. FA: Owen Bull, Wayne Hughes & David Gray, 1979 | 25m | |||
Watagans Dora Pinnacles Lego Land | |||||
14 | Humpty Dumpty (Variant)
| 9m | |||
14 | Pink Fluid
Short slab past 2 carrots FA: Anthony Alexander, 1998 | 5m | |||
Watagans Secret Area | |||||
14 | Hex-n-arete
Lower slab/arete on hex bolts. | 10m | |||
Watagans Monkey Face Practice Area | |||||
14 | Digital Display
Wall / slab past a letterbox slot and bolt a metre or so right of Deamon. FA: David Gray, Paul Smith & Bruce Donaldson, 1983 | 12m, 1 | |||
14 | ★ Oxymoron
Wall and overlap 15m right of Snake. Climb diagonally rightwards to gain the cave, then over the bulge past bolt FA: David Gray, 1979 | 25m, 1 | |||
14 | ★ Oxymoron (Direct)
Unprotected wall to join Oxymoron at it’s cave. FA: David Gray & Paul Smith, 1981 | 25m, 1 | |||
14 | ★ Menstration Day
Up wall 5m right of Oxymoron Direct passing 2 bolts and a small overlap FA: James Cowmeadow & Jim Gilbert, 1986 | 20m, 2 | |||
Watagans Monkey Face Turkey Walls | |||||
14 | Once is Enough
A start in the vaugue corner right of Joe’s Climb leads to the obvious chimney, the exit from which and final wall constituting the crux. FA: Andrew Martin, David Gray & Warwick Kemble, 1982 | 20m | |||
Watagans Monkey Face Central Gully | |||||
14 | Easy's Hangover
Boulder up the arete with no gear until half height, to join "Centennial" FA: TR, Ian Hardon & David Gray, 1979 FFA: David Gray, 1982 | 9m | |||
13 | ★ Centennial
Climb the centre of the wall past 3 carrots, outflanking the overhang on the left. FFA: Steve Mitchell & Ian hardon, 1980 FA: TR: David Gray & Owen Bull, 1980 | 9m, 3 | |||
Watagans Monkey Face Big Banana Buttress & The Extremes | |||||
13 | ★ Shick
"A close shave", climb the juggy arete right of New Horizons, traversing left above a friend break to easier ground. Exit to the terrace. FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1982 | 18m | |||
14 | ★ Five Finger Exercise
You used to able to bridge up the tree but it's a bit harder now that the tree is dead. Move up then move left past a bolt and flake to a pocketed traverse line. Step right to a large flake, which is followed to a groove and wall to finish at the large tree. FA: David Gray & Martin Cook, 1982 | 14m, 1 | |||
14 | Plebe's Plummet
Wall past a bolt. FA: Paul Smith & Bruce Donaldson, 1984 | 12m, 1 | |||
14 M1 | Alpinist's Dream
"don't bother, the only aid climbs on the cliff and subsequent ascents will only leave scars" The first peg crack. FA: Robert Stow & David Gray, 1982 | 9m | |||
14 M1 | Yosemite
The other worthless peg crack. FA: David Gray & Robert Stow, 1982 | 9m | |||
Watagans Monkey Face Stopper Walls | |||||
13 | Muska
From the start of 'Stopper' traverse diagonally left to the arete then up. | 16m | |||
13 | ★ Stopper
1
11
2
13
FA: 2: David Pickles & David Gray, 1980 FA: 1: Wayne Hughes, David Gray, Brian Davidson & Owen Bull, 1980 | 35m, 2 | |||
13 | ★ Stopper (Direct)
1
13
2
13
Alternate 1st pitch of Stopper.
FA: David Gray, Rob Gregory & Steve Farington, 1982 | 35m, 2 | |||
Watagans Monkey Face Smear Slabs | |||||
14 | ★★ Without a Lead
Start just left of DUBB on ledge. Up past 4 RBs and a flake to DBB. FFA: Dave Gray, Dan Rogers, Darrin Gray & Martin Cook, 1983 FA: 1983 | 15m, 4 | |||
14 | ★ Hang in there Baby
The hand crack in the corner / groove bounding the right hand edge of the Smear Slabs. Head left to the anchor on ABTF. FA: David Gray & Alan Martin, 1980 | 20m | |||
Watagans Monkey Face Space Ape Area | |||||
14 | ★ Orangutang
The steep corner and problematic groove. | 6m | |||
Watagans Monkey Face The Ramparts | |||||
14 | ★ Terminally in Traction
Classic right facing corner to DBB. FA: Ben Ewald & Dan Rogers, 1980 | 14m | |||
13 | Pseudo
FA: David Gray, 1983 | 6m | |||
Watagans Monkey Face Ground Fall Gully | |||||
14 | Aquilla
Short pillar then V groove right of Aggro Bat. FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1982 | 18m | |||
Watagans Monkey Face Lower Crag | |||||
14 | EZ Arete
The arete of the pillar right of 'So'. FA: Dave Gray (solo), 1983 | 7m, 2 | |||
Watagans Monkey Face Middle Crag | |||||
14 | Bat's Wing
Climb the left wall of Pickle's Retreat. FA: David Gray, 1985 | 10m | |||
14/15 | Pickle's Retreat
Up the finger crack, past pod, to tree belay. FA: Steve Mitchell & Ian Hardon, 1982 | 10m | |||
14 | Grunt 'n' Shove
The awkward and obvious chimney. FA: Bob McBride, Jenny Anderson & Michael Fordham, 1982 | 14m | |||
13 | Cryptic Crossing
After the initial corner of Kryptos,, climb diagonally right to finish up I'd Rather be Canoeing and DUBB ( on ledge). FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1984 | 14m | |||
14 | ★★ I'd Rather be Canoeing
A good line. The arete right of Kryptos is approached from the right and climbed past nut and friend runners to a double bolt belay FA: TR: David Gray, Bob McBride, MC, Rob Stow & MF, 1982 FFA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1983 | 18m | |||
14 | ★★ Wall of Horrors
A companion route to I'd Rather be Canoeing, starting a metre right and heading directly up the wall, with sparse protection, trending toward the arete to finish. FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1983 | 14m | |||
13 | ★★ 3rd Runner
Good laybacking up the corner. Tree belay. FA: David Gray & Bob McBride, 1983 | 8m | |||
13 | Pot Holed
The overhung right facing corner 10m right of BHP. Climb the holes to step left at the roof. FA: David Gray, 1983 | 13m | |||
Watagans Monkey Face Upper Crag | |||||
14 | Happy Heart Attack
10m right of Obscurity at the bottomless right sweeping cracks. Climb the cracks being careful of loose rock on exit. FA: David Gray, Bruce Donaldson & Paul Marshall, 1983 | 20m | |||
13 | A Day
Arete and wall right of 'Happy Heart Attack' approached from the left leading ramp. FA: David Gray & Michael Gray, 1984 | 20m | |||
14 | ★ Jenny's Corner
The orange corner behind the tree 3m right of Stravinsky. FA: [John Wilde & Jenny Anderson, 1984 | 18m | |||
14 | ★ Sauntaren
Thin seam to ledge then corner as for Jim. Appears to have been poorly retro bolted with alternative finish up face to DUBB on right. Do yourself a favour and don't clip them, there is enough pro without them. FA: David Gray FFA: David Gray & John Wilde | 24m | |||
14 | ★ Bonnie
The classic open book thin crack. NB since 1980 if the snake hasn't been seen its been felt. (it was seen in september 2003 and was approx 5ft long) FA: Dave Pickles | 23m | |||
14 | Perpetual Poet
Start at the cracked groove 8m right of Glen. Climb the groove for a metre or so before boldly climbing the left wall directly. FA: David Gray & Bruce Donaldson, 1983 | 24m | |||
13 | ★★ Psychopathic Gardener
Climb the crack above and right of BHP 5m right of Eject, to a corner finish. FA: David Gray & Bob McBride, 1982 | 20m | |||
Watagans Monkey Face The Wild West | |||||
14 | ★ Connie
In the centre of the Connie Buttress, immediately right of Rash (Middle Crag) is a crack/corner through a small roof below a thin yellow corner. Climbs the cracks and corner to a problematic exit and tree belay. FA: David Pickles, Lou Zamberlan & David Gray, 1979 | 25m | |||
13 | Vile File
Kevlar overalls advised! Start at the offwidth corner 5m right of Connie. Struggle up the corner then cracks on the left wall to join Connie. FA: David Gray, 1983 | 24m | |||
13 | Fist
The short bulging first crack 8m right of Dirt. Up the crack with interest then step left to finish up a manky corner just right of Dirt. FA: Dan Rogers & David Gray, 1982 | 14m | |||
13 | Tree
Climb the corner at the right hand end of the cave 6m right of Drop Kick. FA: Dan Rogers, 1982 | 8m | |||
Watagans Monkey Face Rubble Box | |||||
13 | Kabolos
The flake system leading to an offwidth roof at the base of the grass ramp running down from the cliff top (RHS of the cliff) and just left of an orange groove. Follow the line. FA: Robert Stow, David Gray & Brian Cooper, 1982 | 15m | |||
Watagans Monkey Face South Face | |||||
14 | Fore Arm Jolt
Climb the obvious right facing corner, 20m right of the access gully. Step right to a groove finish. FA: Robert Stow & Dan Rogers, 1982 | 25m | |||
14 | ★ Exhaustion
The original route up the wall, climbed Paul’s Peril to the bulge then moved left to finish up Fore Arm Jolt. FA: David Pickles & David Gray, 1980 | 30m | |||
14 | Cave Man's Bivvy
Starts about 15m right of the Sunset Strip wall at a yellow cave with a corner above it’s left edge. Climb the corner to belay at a prominent tree. Swing left across the exposed wall, traversing left and up to the cave. Climb out of the cave then directly up the centre of the wall to finish. FA: David Gray, Robert Stowe, Martin Cook & Brian Cooper, 1982 | 32m | |||
14 | Gut Buster
Start a the flake 8m right of Holden, just left of a prominent arete. Climb the flake and wall above. FA: David Gray & Michael Ward, 1980 | 12m | |||
14 | Horizontal Hold
Start at the crack a couple of metres right of Glacial Aboration. Climb the crack to the cave then continue up (common with One Armed Bandit). FA: Robert Stow & Dan Rogers, 1982 | 20m | |||
Watagans Mt Myall (Macleans Lookout) West Wall of Mt Myall Main Wall | |||||
14 | unknown (NBC 14?)
Corner left of Quietly Qantastic (still be confirmed) FA: Lindsay Irvine, 1982 | 15m | |||
Watagans Gate Crag Walls of 2000 | |||||
13 | Anniversary climb
| 40m, 3 | |||
13 | ★ Shanes 2
Just right of arete to DBB on block | 11m | |||
Watagans Rope Rd The Main Line | |||||
14 | Crap Crack
Start at the diagonal crack, then follow crack systems upward FA: John Wilde, Brett Arnold, Darrin Gray, Jenny Rogers & Dan Rogers, 1989 | 20m | |||
14 | Riden Along
Start 25m right of "Pom's Crack" at crack below prominent tree. Up crack to tree. Cross ledge to a rightward trending traverse above a block to an overhung corner. Up corner and right to a deep V crack to exit. FA: Darrin Gray (solo), 1989 | 20m | |||
Watagans Rope Rd Key Hole Right | |||||
14 | Grunting Bitch
The twin cracks to bolt protected offwidth ( hangers needed). Trend left at top ( anchors above Copacabana) FA: Darrin Gray | 20m, 2 | |||
Watagans Rope Rd Key Hole Left | |||||
14 | ★ A wide berth
Offwidth left of VC, trending left to tree to belay. Cams or tubes to BD #5 essential though it will take larger gear. FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, Aug 2020 | 15m | |||
13 | Holy Dooley
Initialled HD at undercut start. | 20m | |||
14 | Jungle Fever
A vegetated ledge corner just right of ampitheatre | 20m | |||
Watagans Rope Rd Funnel Web Walls | |||||
14 | ★ Small Wonder
FA: Jenny Anderson & Ian Adair, 1989 | 20m | |||
Watagans Brunkerville Gap | |||||
14 | Leap Frog
Corner system left of walking track. 5m left of rusty piton. Up past twin cracks to arete. FA: David Gray & Bruce Donaldson, 1981 | 25m | |||
14 | Rusty Piton
Crack system just to the south of the walking track. Large casuarina at 6metres from ground. Past a rusty piton and a disintegrating bolt. DBB belay at top- if your game! FA: Unknown, 1965 | 25m | |||
Watagans Mt Sugarloaf Main Line | |||||
14 | ★★ De-o-Violente
| 16m | |||
14 | Egotistical Banana Roof
| 20m | |||
13 | Premier Joe
| 15m | |||
14 | Egocentric Extension
| 70m | |||
14 | Bonza
| 85m | |||
Port Stephens Iris Moore Park | |||||
14 | Basalt
The dangerous basalt chimney. Not recommended. | 13m | |||
13 | Salt Spray
| 14m | |||
Port Stephens Fisherman's Bay | |||||
14 | Down Climb
| 5m | |||
14 | ★★ Easy Ups
Moving right off the ledge. | 5m | |||
14 | ★ Ray Bands
Up the crack or the slab. | 6m | |||
Port Stephens Pacific Street Boulders | |||||
V0- | ★★ Couldn't Wait
Left most climb in the shorter wall section. Starting on centre pocket and following the large crack up to the left. Beware the cactus. FA: Fiona Smith & Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021 | 3m | |||
V0- | ★★ Say Crack Again
The face around to the right from FS. Great beginner crack climb. FA: Fiona Smith & Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021 | 2m | |||
Port Stephens Scout Wall | |||||
13 | The prow
The narrow prow to the right of the Natalia slab with offwidth to the right up top. Chossy, dangerous and Not recommended | 9m | |||
13 | ★ Baden Powell
Up the face left of the arete. FA: Tim Haasnoot | 11m | |||
Port Stephens The Docks The Tower Blocks | |||||
V0- | Sears tower
Just right of corner into vague crack | 3m | |||
Port Stephens The Docks The Mooring Block | |||||
V0- | ★ The Descent
Easy send, used as access. | 3m | |||
Port Stephens The Slot The Slit | |||||
14 | BridgeClimb
South side Triple Hex Belay. Opposite eastern-most bolt. Bridge. | 8m | |||
Port Stephens The Surge The Surgery | |||||
13 | ★★ Dill Pickles
Fixed Hangers. Abseil in or carefuly walk down the slab on the left hand side | 12m, 2 | |||
Port Stephens Safety Ramp | |||||
14 | ★ Harbourage
Walk down to the end of the safety ramp and climb the easy corner on the left | 10m | |||
Port Stephens Morna point South Wall | |||||
14 | ★ Lobster Trap
Great beginners route. Vague line on slab starting 3.5M right of #14 'WP'. 2 bolts. | 9m, 2 | |||
14 | Nautical Progeny
This route appears to have fallen down FA: V Wills & T Lee, 2003 | 10m | |||
14 | East Coast Low
Start up diagonal left of CS then trend up and right to finish on CS anchors | 9m | |||
Port Stephens Morna point Back wall Low tide sector | |||||
V0- | Cornered
Corner 1 m left of arete | 3m | |||
Port Stephens Skate Park Small Wall | |||||
14 | Skase on Skates
FA: Jason Piper, 2002 | 5m | |||
14 | Hand Plant
FA: Jason Piper, 2002 | 6m | |||
Port Stephens Skate Park Half Pipe | |||||
14 | Ugly Duckling
Wideish crack left of 'BO' FA: Rat & Gideon Moir, 2021 | 8m | |||
14 | ★ Cervical rib
| 12m | |||
Port Stephens Treatment Plant Plant 1, The Sunny Side | |||||
13 | ★ Cornflakes
FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2004 | 7m | |||
Port Stephens Treatment Plant Plant 3, The Rock Pool | |||||
14 | Easy route
Start at diagonal ramp 1 m L of stemming corner. Reachy start to a jug then up ledges to DBB FA: Jason Piper, 2005 | 10m, 4 | |||
13 | ★★ Traversishorty
From the start of Traversity head left just above the water | 8m | |||
Port Stephens Fingal Gym | |||||
14 | Old School
Can be completed from Top rope if able to get on top of wall to anchors. | 11m | |||
13 | ★ Ichi Knee
Mantle to easy moves past 2 bolts | 8m, 2 | |||
13 | Two-Step
Basic easy route just to the right of Sashimi. Done as a solo but could easily be setup for top-roping or as an easy trad line with a fair few placements. FFA: Nick Murphy, 8 Sep 2019 | 7m | |||
Port Stephens Tomaree Head Dolphin Walls Lower | |||||
14 | Formality
Up a right facing series of corners and large ledges. Not a good beginners lead due to ledge fall potential. | 15m |