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Routes in Hunter Valley for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 138 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Watagans Dora Pinnacles Main Pinnacles
14 Avon

Directly up wall, 2m left of the Battle of Rahmizies to an old carrot bolt, then follow slabby corner left to tree belay.

FA: Unknown (ABARC?), 1970

Mixed trad 10m, 1
Watagans Dora Pinnacles Sunny Side
13 David's Hangover Direct

Climb the first pitch of David's Hangover then continue directly up the arete (devoid of protection). May now be a fully carrot'ed sport climb?

FA: David Gray, Ingrid Ward & Michael Johnson, 1987

Trad 20m
Watagans Dora Pinnacles Dark Side
14 Avondale Crack

The RH Corner and jamb crack start to the M1 to gully.

FA: ABARC (Avondale Bush Walking & Rockclimbing Club), 1970

Trad 30m
Watagans Dora Pinnacles Central Buttress
14 Carnal No-Ledge

The chimney/cleft on the dark side of the central buttress.

FA: Owen Bull, Wayne Hughes & David Gray, 1979

Trad 25m
Watagans Dora Pinnacles Lego Land
14 Humpty Dumpty (Variant)
Unknown 9m
14 Pink Fluid

Short slab past 2 carrots

FA: Anthony Alexander, 1998

Sport 5m
Watagans Secret Area
14 Hex-n-arete

Lower slab/arete on hex bolts.

Sport 10m
Watagans Monkey Face Practice Area
14 Digital Display

Wall / slab past a letterbox slot and bolt a metre or so right of Deamon.

FA: David Gray, Paul Smith & Bruce Donaldson, 1983

Mixed trad 12m, 1
14 Oxymoron

Wall and overlap 15m right of Snake. Climb diagonally rightwards to gain the cave, then over the bulge past bolt

FA: David Gray, 1979

Mixed trad 25m, 1
14 Oxymoron (Direct)

Unprotected wall to join Oxymoron at it’s cave.

FA: David Gray & Paul Smith, 1981

Mixed trad 25m, 1
14 Menstration Day

Up wall 5m right of Oxymoron Direct passing 2 bolts and a small overlap

FA: James Cowmeadow & Jim Gilbert, 1986

Mixed trad 20m, 2
Watagans Monkey Face Turkey Walls
14 Once is Enough

A start in the vaugue corner right of Joe’s Climb leads to the obvious chimney, the exit from which and final wall constituting the crux.

FA: Andrew Martin, David Gray & Warwick Kemble, 1982

Trad 20m
Watagans Monkey Face Central Gully
14 Easy's Hangover

Boulder up the arete with no gear until half height, to join "Centennial"

FA: TR, Ian Hardon & David Gray, 1979

FFA: David Gray, 1982

Trad 9m
13 Centennial

Climb the centre of the wall past 3 carrots, outflanking the overhang on the left.

FFA: Steve Mitchell & Ian hardon, 1980

FA: TR: David Gray & Owen Bull, 1980

Mixed trad 9m, 3
Watagans Monkey Face Big Banana Buttress & The Extremes
13 Shick

"A close shave", climb the juggy arete right of New Horizons, traversing left above a friend break to easier ground. Exit to the terrace.

FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1982

Trad 18m
14 Five Finger Exercise

You used to able to bridge up the tree but it's a bit harder now that the tree is dead. Move up then move left past a bolt and flake to a pocketed traverse line. Step right to a large flake, which is followed to a groove and wall to finish at the large tree.

FA: David Gray & Martin Cook, 1982

Mixed trad 14m, 1
14 Plebe's Plummet

Wall past a bolt.

FA: Paul Smith & Bruce Donaldson, 1984

Mixed trad 12m, 1
14 M1 Alpinist's Dream

"don't bother, the only aid climbs on the cliff and subsequent ascents will only leave scars" The first peg crack.

FA: Robert Stow & David Gray, 1982

Aid 9m
14 M1 Yosemite

The other worthless peg crack.

FA: David Gray & Robert Stow, 1982

Aid 9m
Watagans Monkey Face Stopper Walls
13 Muska

From the start of 'Stopper' traverse diagonally left to the arete then up.

Trad 16m
13 Stopper
1 11
2 13
  1. From the terrace on the right of Big Banana Buttress, climb the corner and large flake to a ledge with a double bolt and chain abseil point.

  2. Continue up the off-width corner, stepping left to belay.

FA: 2: David Pickles & David Gray, 1980

FA: 1: Wayne Hughes, David Gray, Brian Davidson & Owen Bull, 1980

Trad 35m, 2
13 Stopper (Direct)
1 13
2 13

Alternate 1st pitch of Stopper.

  1. Climb the corner direct (staying left of the flake).

  2. Second pitch of Stopper.

FA: David Gray, Rob Gregory & Steve Farington, 1982

Trad 35m, 2
Watagans Monkey Face Smear Slabs
14 Without a Lead

Start just left of DUBB on ledge. Up past 4 RBs and a flake to DBB.

FFA: Dave Gray, Dan Rogers, Darrin Gray & Martin Cook, 1983

FA: 1983

Sport 15m, 4
14 Hang in there Baby

The hand crack in the corner / groove bounding the right hand edge of the Smear Slabs. Head left to the anchor on ABTF.

FA: David Gray & Alan Martin, 1980

Trad 20m
Watagans Monkey Face Space Ape Area
14 Orangutang

The steep corner and problematic groove.

Trad 6m
Watagans Monkey Face The Ramparts
14 Terminally in Traction

Classic right facing corner to DBB.

FA: Ben Ewald & Dan Rogers, 1980

Trad 14m
13 Pseudo

FA: David Gray, 1983

Trad 6m
Watagans Monkey Face Ground Fall Gully
14 Aquilla

Short pillar then V groove right of Aggro Bat.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1982

Trad 18m
Watagans Monkey Face Lower Crag
14 EZ Arete

The arete of the pillar right of 'So'.

FA: Dave Gray (solo), 1983

Sport 7m, 2
Watagans Monkey Face Middle Crag
14 Bat's Wing

Climb the left wall of Pickle's Retreat.

FA: David Gray, 1985

Trad 10m
14/15 Pickle's Retreat

Up the finger crack, past pod, to tree belay.

FA: Steve Mitchell & Ian Hardon, 1982

Trad 10m
14 Grunt 'n' Shove

The awkward and obvious chimney.

FA: Bob McBride, Jenny Anderson & Michael Fordham, 1982

Trad 14m
13 Cryptic Crossing

After the initial corner of Kryptos,, climb diagonally right to finish up I'd Rather be Canoeing and DUBB ( on ledge).

FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1984

Trad 14m
14 I'd Rather be Canoeing

A good line. The arete right of Kryptos is approached from the right and climbed past nut and friend runners to a double bolt belay

FA: TR: David Gray, Bob McBride, MC, Rob Stow & MF, 1982

FFA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1983

Trad 18m
14 Wall of Horrors

A companion route to I'd Rather be Canoeing, starting a metre right and heading directly up the wall, with sparse protection, trending toward the arete to finish.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1983

Trad 14m
13 3rd Runner

Good laybacking up the corner. Tree belay.

FA: David Gray & Bob McBride, 1983

Trad 8m
13 Pot Holed

The overhung right facing corner 10m right of BHP. Climb the holes to step left at the roof.

FA: David Gray, 1983

Trad 13m
Watagans Monkey Face Upper Crag
14 Happy Heart Attack

10m right of Obscurity at the bottomless right sweeping cracks. Climb the cracks being careful of loose rock on exit.

FA: David Gray, Bruce Donaldson & Paul Marshall, 1983

Trad 20m
13 A Day

Arete and wall right of 'Happy Heart Attack' approached from the left leading ramp.

FA: David Gray & Michael Gray, 1984

Trad 20m
14 Jenny's Corner

The orange corner behind the tree 3m right of Stravinsky.

FA: [John Wilde & Jenny Anderson, 1984

Trad 18m
14 Sauntaren

Thin seam to ledge then corner as for Jim. Appears to have been poorly retro bolted with alternative finish up face to DUBB on right. Do yourself a favour and don't clip them, there is enough pro without them.

FA: David Gray

FFA: David Gray & John Wilde

Trad 24m
14 Bonnie

The classic open book thin crack. NB since 1980 if the snake hasn't been seen its been felt. (it was seen in september 2003 and was approx 5ft long)

FA: Dave Pickles

Trad 23m
14 Perpetual Poet

Start at the cracked groove 8m right of Glen. Climb the groove for a metre or so before boldly climbing the left wall directly.

FA: David Gray & Bruce Donaldson, 1983

Trad 24m
13 Psychopathic Gardener

Climb the crack above and right of BHP 5m right of Eject, to a corner finish.

FA: David Gray & Bob McBride, 1982

Trad 20m
Watagans Monkey Face The Wild West
14 Connie

In the centre of the Connie Buttress, immediately right of Rash (Middle Crag) is a crack/corner through a small roof below a thin yellow corner. Climbs the cracks and corner to a problematic exit and tree belay.

FA: David Pickles, Lou Zamberlan & David Gray, 1979

Trad 25m
13 Vile File

Kevlar overalls advised! Start at the offwidth corner 5m right of Connie. Struggle up the corner then cracks on the left wall to join Connie.

FA: David Gray, 1983

Trad 24m
13 Fist

The short bulging first crack 8m right of Dirt. Up the crack with interest then step left to finish up a manky corner just right of Dirt.

FA: Dan Rogers & David Gray, 1982

Trad 14m
13 Tree

Climb the corner at the right hand end of the cave 6m right of Drop Kick.

FA: Dan Rogers, 1982

Trad 8m
Watagans Monkey Face Rubble Box
13 Kabolos

The flake system leading to an offwidth roof at the base of the grass ramp running down from the cliff top (RHS of the cliff) and just left of an orange groove. Follow the line.

FA: Robert Stow, David Gray & Brian Cooper, 1982

Trad 15m
Watagans Monkey Face South Face
14 Fore Arm Jolt

Climb the obvious right facing corner, 20m right of the access gully. Step right to a groove finish.

FA: Robert Stow & Dan Rogers, 1982

Trad 25m
14 Exhaustion

The original route up the wall, climbed Paul’s Peril to the bulge then moved left to finish up Fore Arm Jolt.

FA: David Pickles & David Gray, 1980

Trad 30m
14 Cave Man's Bivvy

Starts about 15m right of the Sunset Strip wall at a yellow cave with a corner above it’s left edge. Climb the corner to belay at a prominent tree. Swing left across the exposed wall, traversing left and up to the cave. Climb out of the cave then directly up the centre of the wall to finish.

FA: David Gray, Robert Stowe, Martin Cook & Brian Cooper, 1982

Trad 32m
14 Gut Buster

Start a the flake 8m right of Holden, just left of a prominent arete. Climb the flake and wall above.

FA: David Gray & Michael Ward, 1980

Trad 12m
14 Horizontal Hold

Start at the crack a couple of metres right of Glacial Aboration. Climb the crack to the cave then continue up (common with One Armed Bandit).

FA: Robert Stow & Dan Rogers, 1982

Trad 20m
Watagans Mt Myall (Macleans Lookout) West Wall of Mt Myall Main Wall
14 unknown (NBC 14?)

Corner left of Quietly Qantastic (still be confirmed)

FA: Lindsay Irvine, 1982

Trad 15m
Watagans Gate Crag Walls of 2000
13 Anniversary climb
  1. 10 m 13 the left most route in the sector slab to small ledge DBB

  2. 15m 13 up blocks then ledges DUBB. Possible to walk off right from here

  3. 15m 13 head left from belay then up past chain, left across slab and up short wall to semi hanging DBB. It’s 30m abseil direct to ground.

Sport 40m, 3
13 Shanes 2

Just right of arete to DBB on block

Sport 11m
Watagans Rope Rd The Main Line
14 Crap Crack

Start at the diagonal crack, then follow crack systems upward

FA: John Wilde, Brett Arnold, Darrin Gray, Jenny Rogers & Dan Rogers, 1989

Trad 20m
14 Riden Along

Start 25m right of "Pom's Crack" at crack below prominent tree. Up crack to tree. Cross ledge to a rightward trending traverse above a block to an overhung corner. Up corner and right to a deep V crack to exit.

FA: Darrin Gray (solo), 1989

Trad 20m
Watagans Rope Rd Key Hole Right
14 Grunting Bitch

The twin cracks to bolt protected offwidth ( hangers needed). Trend left at top ( anchors above Copacabana)

FA: Darrin Gray

Mixed trad 20m, 2
Watagans Rope Rd Key Hole Left
14 A wide berth

Offwidth left of VC, trending left to tree to belay. Cams or tubes to BD #5 essential though it will take larger gear.

FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, Aug 2020

Trad 15m
13 Holy Dooley

Initialled HD at undercut start.

Trad 20m
14 Jungle Fever

A vegetated ledge corner just right of ampitheatre

Trad 20m
Watagans Rope Rd Funnel Web Walls
14 Small Wonder

FA: Jenny Anderson & Ian Adair, 1989

Trad 20m
Watagans Brunkerville Gap
14 Leap Frog

Corner system left of walking track. 5m left of rusty piton. Up past twin cracks to arete.

FA: David Gray & Bruce Donaldson, 1981

Trad 25m
14 Rusty Piton

Crack system just to the south of the walking track. Large casuarina at 6metres from ground. Past a rusty piton and a disintegrating bolt. DBB belay at top- if your game!

FA: Unknown, 1965

Trad 25m
Watagans Mt Sugarloaf Main Line
14 De-o-Violente
Unknown 16m
14 Egotistical Banana Roof
Unknown 20m
13 Premier Joe
Unknown 15m
14 Egocentric Extension
Unknown 70m
14 Bonza
Unknown 85m
Port Stephens Iris Moore Park
14 Basalt

The dangerous basalt chimney. Not recommended.

Top rope 13m
13 Salt Spray
Top rope 14m
Port Stephens Fisherman's Bay
14 Down Climb
Boulder 5m
14 Easy Ups

Moving right off the ledge.

Deep water solo 5m
14 Ray Bands

Up the crack or the slab.

Deep water solo 6m
Port Stephens Pacific Street Boulders
V0- Couldn't Wait

Left most climb in the shorter wall section. Starting on centre pocket and following the large crack up to the left. Beware the cactus.

FA: Fiona Smith & Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021

Boulder 3m
V0- Say Crack Again

The face around to the right from FS. Great beginner crack climb.

FA: Fiona Smith & Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021

Boulder 2m
Port Stephens Scout Wall
13 The prow

The narrow prow to the right of the Natalia slab with offwidth to the right up top. Chossy, dangerous and Not recommended

Trad 9m
13 Baden Powell

Up the face left of the arete.

FA: Tim Haasnoot

Trad 11m
Port Stephens The Docks The Tower Blocks
V0- Sears tower

Just right of corner into vague crack

Boulder 3m
Port Stephens The Docks The Mooring Block
V0- The Descent

Easy send, used as access.

Boulder 3m
Port Stephens The Slot The Slit
14 BridgeClimb

South side Triple Hex Belay. Opposite eastern-most bolt. Bridge.

Top rope 8m
Port Stephens The Surge The Surgery
13 Dill Pickles

Fixed Hangers. Abseil in or carefuly walk down the slab on the left hand side

Sport 12m, 2
Port Stephens Safety Ramp
14 Harbourage

Walk down to the end of the safety ramp and climb the easy corner on the left

Deep water solo 10m
Port Stephens Morna point South Wall
14 Lobster Trap

Great beginners route. Vague line on slab starting 3.5M right of #14 'WP'. 2 bolts.

Sport 9m, 2
14 Nautical Progeny

This route appears to have fallen down

FA: V Wills & T Lee, 2003

Trad 10m
14 East Coast Low

Start up diagonal left of CS then trend up and right to finish on CS anchors

Trad 9m
Port Stephens Morna point Back wall Low tide sector
V0- Cornered

Corner 1 m left of arete

Boulder 3m
Port Stephens Skate Park Small Wall
14 Skase on Skates

FA: Jason Piper, 2002

Trad 5m
14 Hand Plant

FA: Jason Piper, 2002

Trad 6m
Port Stephens Skate Park Half Pipe
14 Ugly Duckling

Wideish crack left of 'BO'

FA: Rat & Gideon Moir, 2021

Trad 8m
14 Cervical rib
Unknown 12m
Port Stephens Treatment Plant Plant 1, The Sunny Side
13 Cornflakes

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2004

Trad 7m
Port Stephens Treatment Plant Plant 3, The Rock Pool
14 Easy route

Start at diagonal ramp 1 m L of stemming corner. Reachy start to a jug then up ledges to DBB

FA: Jason Piper, 2005

Sport 10m, 4
13 Traversishorty

From the start of Traversity head left just above the water

Boulder 8m
Port Stephens Fingal Gym
14 Old School

Can be completed from Top rope if able to get on top of wall to anchors.

Trad 11m
13 Ichi Knee

Mantle to easy moves past 2 bolts

Sport 8m, 2
13 Two-Step

Basic easy route just to the right of Sashimi. Done as a solo but could easily be setup for top-roping or as an easy trad line with a fair few placements.

FFA: Nick Murphy, 8 Sep 2019

Trad 7m
Port Stephens Tomaree Head Dolphin Walls Lower
14 Formality

Up a right facing series of corners and large ledges. Not a good beginners lead due to ledge fall potential.

Trad 15m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 138 routes.

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