Pulled on to work a start move and found myself up and ready to throw for the finishing jug unexpectedly. Hadn't thought that far ahead yet so blew it. Spent rest of session dialling in beta and ready to go next session. Such a sick line!
What a cool and unlikely position for the sit start. Amazing. Rest of the route is pretty fun. Might need to come back with a bit more skins for the rest though.
Conditions were supreme spooge! Pretty much resent Shoe Slips with the old beta - knee is good for heel hooks now! Tried first half but find it really hard without crispness
Did the stand. Figured out beta for the sit. I think the sit ends up climbing the face more than the stand does utilising the side pulls and more compression?
FIrst time back on this in a few months! Warm night, though friction was decent! Felt comfy in the last section, so continued working the start. Tried some different beta but it just didn't stick. Think I'm going to keep grinding on the OG beta!
Got into Left of Ferns on my first shot, but forgot how to do the last few moves. Downclimbing Butter Me Up was easier than expected. Keen to get back on this.
Made all of the moves, including getting a high foot, but couldn't bring myself to commit to the mantle with one pad and no spotter. Trying to avoid unnecessary risks these days...
Progress! Much further than the past attempt. Can now get to the throw to the right back up high. Trying an alternative where I move out and up left as an intermediate