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Routes in Toohey Forest for selected grade

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Showing all 77 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Hill top area Bum start boulder
V1 One move

Start on crimps and throw to large ledge and top out

Boulder 2m
V1 Pigs snout traverse

Start left of 'easy' with a right hand gaston in a good pocket and left hand directly above the right in another pocket/sloper. Feet on the good rail with your ass on the rock on the ground. Traverse right making use of the pig snout hold and finish on 'one move'.

Set: Adnan Ahmetagic, 5 Oct 2019

Boulder 3m
Hill top area Ant Boulder
V1 Ant Man

Start as per Ant Boy but continue to traverse left along rail and top out at far left.

Boulder 2m
Lookout Watchtower Boulder
V1 Watch

Slightly L of overhang, using prominent holds on overhanging boulder

Boulder 3m
Lookout Lookout wall
V1 Choose your own adventure

Go where you want!

Boulder 3m
Lookout Snakeskin area
V1 Snakeskin

An unlikely gem on the worst looking patch of rock around. Sidepull, cobbles, jug, mantle

FA: M. Pelekanos, 2014

Boulder 3m
V1 Snake Cave

Small cave above snakeskin boulder, from which its namesake emerged. Unknown route history

Boulder 3m
V1 Down & Out

start at upper right. traverse down and left on face holds and finish up niceneasym

FA: M. Pelekanos, 2014

Boulder 3m
Lookout Apollo's Gaze
V1 Meanjin Memory

Sit start on the far right side of the boulder. LH in the big obvious pocket, RH on a decent hold at about the same height. Some satisfying moves through decent incut crimps up to a pleasant mantle.

Iain Hunter

FA: Iain Hunter, 3 Jun 2023

Boulder 2m
Lookout Dwarven Stone
V1 And my Axe!

Sit start around the right side of the boulder. About V1 to pull off the ground using a LH high pinch and heel hook. RH low on a good hold. Once established it's smooth and easy to the top.

FA: Iain Hunter, 3 Mar 2023

Boulder 2m
Northern area Rooflet Boulder
V1 Climb 9

Start at Jacked and move out R along shelf and straight up over the 9 painted onto the rock.

Boulder 3m
Northern area Boulder IV
V1 Climb 11

Interesting sit start from 2 small holds and throw to inset jug. Then good holds to top.

Boulder 2m
V1 Princesses Traverse

Great climb that uses each of the best segments from this rockface. Start as Fern. Traverse across rock face until left hand in Pocket from Pocket Pullin. Finish with mantle top out.

Can be made more difficult by not using roof for traverse.

FA: Alex Kinsella & Andrew Mason, 21 Aug 2022

Boulder 4m
Northern area No 8 Boulder
V1 Flake

Short climb straight up small flake to good edges.

Boulder 3m
V1 Painted 6

Standing start at painted 6 and go straight up.

Boulder 3m
Northern area Boulder VI
V1 Foohey Torest

Start to the right of "Humped" in the corner crack at the back of the roof. Follow this along optional handjams and fingerlocks, using both boulders to topout below tree.

FA: Alex Mougenot, 2015

Boulder 3m
V1 Climb 15

Start to the left of "Mantle" on rail and and a cooool throw out left to corner hold. Top out without using the tree, or the left boulder.

Boulder
Swimming pool boulders Chimp Boulder
V1 Cobbles

Around the corner to the R is cobble start up to large pebbles sticking out of rock on ledge. Throw L hand up to good rail and go to roof for mantle out.

Boulder 3m
Swimming pool boulders Creekbed Boulder
V1 Cobble face

Start on cobble face opposite 'Casuarina Boulder' on cobble sidepull, straight up and out

Boulder 2m
V1 Cobble arete

Start on cobble arête to the L of 1 and up slightly to the R and out

Boulder
Main area Above The Circus
V1 Undercling Mantle

Left hand starts at end left of belly height undercling. Right hand starts to right end. Feet on low ledge (may be obscured by leaves). Throw right hand and mantle

Boulder 2m
V1 Mantle Any Way

As per sloper mantle but using available pockets.

Boulder 2m
V1 Centre Stage

Both hands on diagonal shoulder height rail. Feet on low ledge to right. Move up via obvious ledge and then to obvious edge on top.

Boulder 2m
V1 Across The Stage

Both hands sidepull right arete. Feet as necessary on low right ledges (do not use boulder to right). Traverse left using the main 'centre stage' ledge on the face. Mantle far left side where boulder is lower

Boulder 2m
V1 A Less Than Graceful Exit

As per across the stage but mantle highest point of boulder to left of 'centre stage'. Slopers only on top for hands. No use of features.

Boulder 2m
V1 Left Of Stage

Start at far left of boulder. Left hand side pull. Right hand sloper on low left top edge. Feet on low left edge. Head right and top 'a less graceful exit'.

Boulder 2m
Main area Warmup Boulder
V1 Meteoright

Start as for Meteor. Traverse to the right before topping out on Galaxy.

Boulder 3m
V1 Galaxy

Sit start with right hand on side pull and left on crimp. Throw right to high pocket and top out through the smooth blankness.

Boulder 3m
Main area Chug
V1 Arete and traverse

Traverse up the L arête and traverse L

Boulder 4m
V1 Bulge

Right pinch on the bulge, up with left and then tenuous mantle

Boulder 4m
V1 Groovy

Start on good holds on prominent bulge under and to the L of the high ferns.

Boulder 4m
V1 Funk arete

Start on good right sidepull, up and bounce across L to rail, then top out straight up or up R.

Boulder 3m
Main area Unleash the Dancer Boulder
V1 1 (area B)

Stand start. Small sidepulls up to crimpers and good holds at the top. Brush the footholds at mid-height if you value dry underpants.

Boulder 2m
V1 8 straight up (area B)
Boulder 2m
Main area Jack Hidden Boulder
V1 Arete

Straight up left arete from a sit start

Boulder
V1 Face

Standing start straight up face

Boulder
Main area Chockstone wall
V1 Chockstone

Undercling the movable chockstone and use it to top out (chockstone removed/missing/long gone). Well harder now.

Boulder 2m
V1 Sarong

Straight up, using the L arête and flake to the R. Mantle out.

Boulder 2m
V1 Flup

Straight up, using only the flake to top.

Boulder 2m
V1 Pledge

Large pocket for R hand and large ledge for foot hold, L on flake and then throw R to top. Large holds over the top.

Boulder 2m
Main area Pebbled slab
V1 L Arete

The L arete. Start low on decent R sidepull and L hand undercling the rail. L foot on low ledge. Get established and pop to good holds and topout to R

FFA: 1985

Boulder 3m
V1 Crazy Forlornly

Sit start. L hand sloper, R hand blocky pinch. Feet on shelf underneath. Hard grunt to get up then R foot to low R footer and up via sidepulls.

FFA: Peatey & Matt Langley, Feb 2016

Boulder 2m
Main area Area C Above the mantle boulder
V1/2 Embody the frog

Left hand on good undercling. Right hand out wide for sidepull. Feet kinda pinching on low vertical edge. Straight up.

Boulder
Main area Area C Mantle Boulder
V1 Left Arete

Standing start on L arête. L hand on good sloper, smear R foot, reach for crappy L sloper and up and slightly to the L for top out.

Boulder 3m
Main area Area C Large Crack Boulder
V1 Warm Up

Juicy holds, and chipped holds over the high mantle.

Boulder 4m
Main area Area C Boulder K
V1 Feel Good Traverse

Traverse from left to right. Start with hands on RH side pull, traverse your way about 2/3rds of the way up before topping out. Feels like a V0-V1

Be careful getting down!

FA: Unknown

Boulder 5m
Main area Area C Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon
V1 Unnamed

R of HD, around backside. Tricky first move then, up and mantle.

As of late August 2021 the problem wasn't well described and there wasn't a topo hence no one quite knew if they were on the right problem so here's an attempt at a description and topo.

Stand start. Right hand sidepull eye height jug. Left hand and feet as required. Head up.

Boulder
Main area Black Cobble Boulder
V1 Cheese

Start beneath short overhang to L sidepull and prominent R hold and straight up

FA: Toby the German

Boulder 2m
Main area Forgotten Boulder
V1 Sonic the Sendhog

Start left hand on low undercling and right hand on jug sidepull. Climb up and over with a slightly angled mantle.

FA: Adnan Ahmetagic, 18 Aug 2019

Boulder 3m
V1 Knuckles the pincher

Sit start on good low feet. Left hand high on decent sloper and right hand pinching a peanut like pebble between two finger pockets. Straight up for two jugs almost opposing each other.

Set: Adnan Ahmetagic, 25 Aug 2019

FA: Adnan Ahmetagic, 25 Aug 2019

Boulder 3m
Main area Cave Boulder
V1 Nose

Reach for holds or use large hole to reach holds, which is harder. Can use undercling to find holds.

Boulder 4m
V1 Sideburn

L to cobble cup and up into undercling in cave for good holds to top

Boulder 4m
Bankside Loner
V1 Lone Shark

Sit start at the left arête on bitey holds. Move RH up to small knob then throw a heel on and top out up the arête.

FA: David Jefferson, 14 Jul 2020

Boulder 3m
V1 Home Alone

Sit start beneath the bulge in the middle of the face on generous pockets with a good left heel hook. Move straight up the bulge to top out.

FA: David Jefferson, 14 Jul 2020

Boulder 3m
Bankside Nom Nom Nom
V1 Rubies on Rails

Up the large rail.

FA: Bruce Taylor, 2012

Boulder 3m
Bankside Layercake
V1 Rail

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2012

Boulder 4m
V1 Cup

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2012

Boulder 4m
Bankside #5
V1 Big ol hole

Sit start at the big round hole.

Boulder 2m
Bankside Tippy
V1 More Interesting

A cool traverse, leaving "Soft Way Out" to venture out right past more good holds for a metre or so, and then mount the ledge and follow the slab to the top.

FA: Bruce Taylor

Boulder 3m
V1 Creaky flake

Stand start at obvious flake, up on bad feet.

Boulder 3m
Bankside #7
V1 The Cookie Crumbles

Sit start on the far right side of the boulder, with left hand in the obvious slot and right hand on something decent in the break slightly above.

Pleasing climbing with an easy mantle if you take the time to figure it out.

Iain Hunter

FA: Iain Hunter, 28 May 2023

Boulder 2m
V1 Play-Doh

Sit start with the large good hold. Head straight up past some good holds, to a cool holdless mantle over the top!

FA: Bruce Taylor, 2012

Boulder 3m
Bankside Eighth Boulder
V1 Yakini

Stand start with your right hand on small knob, then and up left to a diagonal ledge. Shares holds with 'Broken Plate'.

FA: Bruce Taylor, 2012

Boulder 3m
V1 I'm Sinking

Sit start up to good crimp rail and then good hold to pull up on.

FA: Bruce Taylor, 2012

Boulder 2m
The Junkyard Flake boulder and its friend
V1 Keep looking

Right hand on prominent jug. Left hand on hold to left. Feet as required, but not on ground level shelf. Move slightly right onto face and up from there.

Boulder
The Junkyard Pride Boulder
V1 Unleash the Cancer Within

Sit start in the cave on this massive undercling. Find your way straight up in the corner through some interesting moves. Beware the drop behind you. Spotters recommended.

FA: Bill Hale, 2015

Boulder 3m
The Junkyard The Mantle Training Centre
V1 That Ain't My Baby

Starts at It's a Boy, and traverses out right, topping out on the back of the boulder, to the L of Baby Bump.

FA: Alex Mougenot, 2015

Boulder 2m
V1 Baby Bump

On the back of the Mantle Training Area Boulder. Starts low on a big bump. Cool little problem.

FA: Bill Hale, 2015

Boulder 2m
V1 Peak

Sit start on the right "ridge" of the small peak. Straight up.

FA: Bill Hale, 2015

Boulder 2m
The Junkyard Roof boulder
V1 Hell

Both hands on obvious jug towards right end of shelf. Feet as required under roof. Mantle from here and try not to scrape your skin off.

FA: Gus Mckelvie, 21 Sep 2023

Boulder 1m
Lost Boys Santa Carla
V1 Lost memories

Sit start as per chestplosion then up just to the right of a pinch is better than a bite (left hand for this problem is typically right hand for a pinch is better than a bite).

FA: Adrian Bowman, 27 Jul 2021

Boulder
V1 Far left

Sit start. Both hands on jug at corner. Head up staying far left. Use only the approx. 60cm of rock to the left of the faint crack.

Boulder
V1 Diagonal left

Sit start. Both hands on diagonal edge. Straight up without using obvious arete holds to left (as used in far left).

Boulder
Lost Boys Hudson's Bluff
V1 Two quality edges

Both hands on lip above head high. Feet on obvious knee height shelf. Gain the top using two quality edges on top.

Boulder
Lost Boys The coffin
V1 Everyone deserves a side pull

Sit start. Left hand on sidepull. Right hand on jug of everyone deserves a sit start. Somewhat strong pull to start then up.

FA: 5 Aug 2021

Boulder
Mushroom boulder
V1 Warmup

Short, easy. Climbs the obvious arete of the boulder opposite The Mushroom.

Boulder 4m
V1 Warmup #2

The line right of the arete, starting on the juggy flake.

Boulder 3m

Showing all 77 routes.

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