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Dwarf Rock

Seasonality

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Description

Located in the Molonglo Nature Reserve roughly 20 minutes drive from the city center, Dwarf rock is a small crag (obviously) averaging 6 meters in height. The main route is a nice left hand crack climb, although one route has being bolted to the right, allowing a good fight for beginners. There are also some small boulders further up the river that have potential.

Access issues inherited from Molonglo River

Rock climbing and abseiling are permitted only outside the period 01 June to 31 December when raptors are breeding. See Molonglo River Reserve Management Plan 2019.

Approach

Drive 10 minutes west of the city center on William Hovel drive and turn left into Coppins Crossing road.

The parking area is just to the West of the bridge at Coppins Crossing on the right heading to Weston Creek. Follow the walking track for another 10 - 15 minutes (take the dirt road when you see it) and then walk down the hill where there is a bend in the river. You will see a small crag on your left at the bottom. -35.2904289, 149.0306535 is the crag, can be seen easily from the bridge looking out

Routes

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Left hand trad crack

FA: Ken Mckeon & Cameron Naughton, 2004

Follow the main crack to the break as for Dwarf Tossing, then the right hand crack to use DTDSCAAT's anchor

FA: Chris Bennetts-Cash, 2013

Reachy slab moves to DBB

FA: Cammeron Naughton & Ken Mckeon, 2004

Couple of average moves out on the right arete up to DBB. No pro and no fun. Use the block or don't, whatever.

FA: Ken McKeon, 2004

The only decent boulder in the area, located 20 meters to the right of the main crag. Start left on the face then straight up the middle.

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Thu 11 May
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