Routes as trad in Australia

As steep as they come. Start below the "Beware of this Block" message. Tricky slabbing just to the left of the original start via sidepull edges and slot avoids the use of the suspicious block.

A few desperate bouldery moves.

Face 10 metres right of Use No Chooks.

A good route to try if Ingvar's variant is out of reach.

Step off the boulder about 8m up the hill from 'Yesterday', traverse left 3m to a seam. Up via two ringbolts to join 'Yesterday'.

Start as for Lunatic, continue up the arete and then tend R. Has it's own chains. 27 in both current guidebooks.

Very reachy. Climb the wall left of White Heat.

Supposed to be desperate. Start as for 'Adios Amigos' then move right and up past 2 BR

Start: Start at crack directly below the lone bolt in the middle of the south face (facing 'Heckle' and Jeckle) and head straight up past big dyno.

The original route by Steve Monks traversed right at first break, up arete then back left somewhere at 25.

Starts as for Delirium Tremens but at the roof breaks right and traverse a couple of metres before launching straight up the face. Reportedly a tad runout in places, and rarely repeated.

The obvious link of Escape start into the last half of Break and Enter. Start as for Escape (original bridging start), then break right and power up through the final boulder problem of B&E. Short, but consistently powerful climbing to the very last move. The route grade is open for debate given it’s basically a V7/8.

Start 2m L of UCRN.

1. 30m (27) The glassy slab becomes a R-leaning flake, which turns into a stomach-churning overhung offwidth, and then steep discontinuous pods, and finally into the R chimney.

2. 20m (23) Step R under the bulge and up the bulging hand crack.

Steep bolted wall R of 'Tarantula'. Nobody ever does it because it's chipped and the bolts look rubbish, hence nobody knows if there is a rap anchor at the top (is there a rap anchor at the top?)

Climb past 3 bolts (and sometimes a fixed wire) to a lower-off.

Start: Bounding the L end of the grotto is an overhanging orange wall.

A very technical ceiling. Take a #4 Friend for the wide slot at the end. The prominent roof crack left of The Good... Scramble up to belay just below roof. Undercling left past two fixed wires to the wide slot. Back aid to descend (no in-situ anchor).

Start at the top of Unrequited. Straight up the awesome headwall past bolts, to the Despatched lower-off.

Start as for Station to Station. Up StS until it heads to the arete then move R and up past 3 more bolts to loweroffs.

Up GtAT for a few metres then straight up the line of bolts into the finish of QV.

Start: Start as for GtAT.

Start 1.5m R of Denim. Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to RB, diagonally R to 2nd RB, then trend L to 3rd RB (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux).

Berlin Calling (29*) is a linkup of Balance of Power into London Calling (Nathan Hoette Nov '04).

Up SDS then head R past a new FH on the bulge (which nearly retrobolts Strolling) and finish up 'Ergonomics'.

Start: As for SDS.

Start 1m right of Dreadnought Variant and climb up past small pocket to slopey horizontal breaks. Past 2 bolts then traverse right to join No Exit near the top, and finish as for that route.

Face R of Handshake. At the second bolt (hard to clip) move L and into Handshake. The direct finish is an open project - maybe 30ish?

Thin and glassy. Start 2m R of The Philosopher. Climb past 2 bolts, join The Philosopher, then at first horizontal traverse right to flake (FH) then up to anchor.

Short flake, then up wall past 2 RB and small gear to DRB.

Start: Start on ledge 5m around R of MS.

Start around R from T. Rightwards crack to rest, L into hanging groove (BR), orange wall then L arete.

Start between 'Orestes' & 'Plimsoll Line'.

Old James Falla project with 3 bolts. Don't know if it's been ticked but it's about 27.

This is the 2 FHs up the nice little face trending L from 'Deck Games'.

Start: As for 'Deck Games'.

The line just left of Killer Canary. Up corner crack via. stems and laybacks to a flared crack on the face. Awesome but runout climbing past fiddly gear leads to a short flared crack before joining Killer Canary after it's traverse.

Small offset Aliens pretty much essential to protect adequately.

You can start from the grassy ledge at wide 16ish but it's not that great, a small ledge about 12m up is comfy and avoids it.

Death lead. Climb the blank corner to the R of HA, with what could best be described as "mind protection" for gear. Two manky pitons and RPs that look pretty are all you get. What is even more impressive is that Kevin put this up ground up - he tried it one day, it started raining so he downclimbed, came back the next day and did it. One of the most impressive first ascents in Australian climbing history.

Most people tend to onsight this route, due to the fact that a fall could be very nasty! Bridge up the completely blank corner, pretending that there are actually holds. Very desperate climbing past the two pitons. Not a climb for the faint hearted.

Wow! Start up the desperate corner R of EJ with crappy gear and a rusty piton playing head games with you as you stare it in the eye! If you fall in the first 15m, it is more than likely that you will deck out! Climb this to a stance. Up the desperately thin corner on imaginary holds, using scary and spacious protection to the top. Some good wires about half way up are the only real protection you get on the whole route. Quite a serious lead although it really does feature some excellent movement. Kim rapped this then did it first shot. Rather impressive.

Edit: A large section of rock at the bottom of the climb fell off the route in 2019.

The bolts were bad 20 years ago!

Start: 12m right of RTT. cairn.

Up Credit Crunch, then join MSTK for a few meters, then into cheque your pockets.

As for RLTW, but when you hit the top break, gear up for a final boulder problem! Heartbreaking, mainly because if you fall off the hard finish (well protected), you have to go back down and re-climb the the real business! Established at grade 27 - you might wonder why it was ever downgraded.

Start: As for RLTW.

The prow has been climbed direct after top rope rehearsal, with no gear after the ledge. Actually a pretty cool compression problem, with crux turning the lip. If climbing is re-opened here anyone who wishes to bolt it is welcome to do so.

The name aptly describes the style of climbing at the quarry. Whilst cleaning this route Ferret was heard to mutter 'I don't like frigging climbs, I just do it out of habit.' This baby rears it's ugly bum with the major problem of not having any footholds where it counts, i.e. on the rock. Apart from that little drawback it's quite a good climb up a very thin finger crack, creeps with fat digits: better pound them down with a hammer or blow them off with explosives if they want to get up this unit.

(1) The next crack in the wall to the right of SS.

Start deep inside the boulder cave on two good hand jams at the start of the crack. Climb the crack to the very top. Choose your own nightmare!

Amazing climbing up a long blunt arete, but quite tough. Just a single aid move low-down on the route! Bring a light rack for the initial start up Mixed Business.

Start as for Mixed Business. Up to first bolt on MB, then follow line of bolts heading left to the arete. Aid off first bolt on the arete, then climb free to the top.

1. 30m. Climb the slabby corner guarded by a bold start. Traverse to the left most crack and fire up the 30 degree overhang on sporty crimps and fiddly placements until you reach a stopper crux just before the angle relents. Take a rest and continue up easy twin cracks and belay on the ledge.

2. 10m. Up chimney then trend left on juggy slab.

Start up second pitch of Taipan but head out right at the crux and up to boulder problem (levitation required) continue up easy wall and into geranium.

"The best line of the cliff and one of the best adventure climbs in Australia"

1. 50m (22)

2. 30m (15)

3. 35m (25)

4. 15m (21)

5. 45m (25) As for De Gaulle's Nose Direct

6. 30m (26)

7. 18m (23)

8. 50m (20)

9. 35m (18) As for De Gaulle's Nose

10. 45m (19) As for De Gaulle's Nose

11. 45m (17) As for De Gaulle's Nose

Mostly bolted but trad gear needed on some pitches.

1. 25m (17) Fully bolted

2. 35m (22)

3. 30m (18)

4. 30m (26) Fully bolted. Can pull on the crux bolt and do this pitch at 23 A0.

5. 15m (13)

Weird technical right facing corner and arete, with excellent protection. One crack left of Astroboy.

Corner on L with single bolt

A striking line, and a contender for the best route in the gorge. Originally done with 3 bolts (as it stands now it is equiped in the same style as the first ascent), it was the hardest climb in Tasmania at the time of the first ascent.

Start by climbing Long Knife and at ~5m place a runner (slinging the massive chockstone with a 240 runner seems to work a treat) start traversing left until the small seam is reached, place small RPs in the thin seam and then climb past a few FHs and good RPs at the lip to double chains at the top. A small cam - red or green C3 - can be nice for the very top.

A variant pitch for the third pitch of Laendler and a classic in its own right. Starting and finishing on the same belay ledges. Unrelenting difficult finger-locking.

Steep climbing directly up the seams just right of the big blank corner.

Climb the thin grey crack right of Passchendaele then join it at its upper crux and anchor

On the R side of the north face, up the gully to the L of Economy Class Syndrome is a thin finger crack, with hard to place wires at the top.

P1. (18) Up NMMNG but continue up and right instead or traversing right. Belay at a comfortable slopy stance. P2. (26) Thin crack on steep arete. Traverse right at roof past a bolt to DBB. P3. (17+) Given 17, sandbagged. Up steep fist cracks top

The direct finish to Sweetie, and great climbing in a super location. Start as for Acerb but go R. Clip the first BR of the lip of the roof, then launch out R (technical) to a stance and the second BR. Trend back L and climb up on sidepulls and a tiny foothold (crux) to jugs, to finish up Sweetie.

Arete past some FH's.

Closed project, direct extension on Ethereal through the two roofs and technical flared crack on the face. Looks nails.

Start just right of Borrowed Time, crossing that route and climbing the left arete.

A hidden gem, well worth the trip! Jump start off the boulder to jug on the right, then a series of acrobatic moves gain the right side of the arete. The original line toproped by the Meffin brothers follows the right side of the arete to the top. A subsequent solo by Steve Kelly (with no mats!) ducked around to the left. This has now also seen a ground up solo by Trent Searcy. Bouldering the original would be committing.

A varied and sensationally exposed single pitch climbing the entire height of the top cave.Start as for endive,but instead of heading to the corner (and belay ledge) stay in the crack, a couple of committing moves above gear lead to the traverse on endive's second pitch, follow this traverse to the line of bolts in the middle of the cave and follow the bolts to the small ledge a couple of metres above the last bolt. Best to lower from the top bolt to avoid trashing the area above the cave.

Everyone Dies Alone

An outstanding pitch filled with variety. Start up the steep crack then follow the rightwards trending line through the radical crack, up to a bolt then onto the magical headwall. A 70m rope gets you to the ledge with some faff.

So bold that it scared Warwick Baird. Says it all.

Hard traverse right to the bolts

Fantastic climbing up the corner and it's R arete, finishing R around the roof. Several FHs.

This was the hardest climb on Mt Stuart to date and a most excellent line. Starts about 10m to the R of OOA. Up past 3 rings to some moves on some monos (take care placing wires) to a good lock. Traverse L to corner & rest, up crackline using holds on R. Exit R, friends to #2. A direct version yet to be led.

Starts up the ramp in the bowl at the end of The Fairy Garden.

1. (30m 26) Up steep wall to rest. L across slab to ledge and DBB.

2. (20m 25) Traverse L past 4 FH then up over bulge and ledge to natural belay.

3. (35m 21) Move R out of cave past 3 FH on steep wall. Up through roof to slab and ledge. Finish up bottomless corner to ledge.

4. (20m 18) Climb L on the nose passing a FH. From ledge, up steep featured rock to slab and natural belay at summit.

Start as for Bloodlines but stepping right after the 2nd FH. Follow 3 more FH's up the pillar and then join back into Bloodlines for the final crack.

The awesome splitter finger crack, guarded by a nails start. Thankfully us mere mortals can pull through the bolts to where the crack starts and continue up at grade 22.

the short, thin seam below possum stampede.

An outrageous and deceptive foray across Redcliff's finest orange rock. See topo 5. Climb the start of Send In The Clowns to big ledge at the base of the orange lift-shaft. Step R into the leaning flake-corner. Up this (hard) to some good holds. Traverse R along break, then straight up.

A magic climb climaxing with a shallow finger crack. Starts right of the boulder on the ledge above. Up the varied crack, then up onto the boulder. Ascend the cruciform crack at right, passing the crux in the last few moves. Some possible protection at the start, then no protection to finish. Would accept a couple of camouflaged bolts. First Toprope Ascent by Luke Hyam on 11/05/2003

Start: As for SIP, up the arete, placing gear up to the carrot, downclimb to below the roughness, then out Right on nothing, to single BR on face, diagonally out to another BR, continue diagonally across face to a 4th BR, then up to shared DBB. (2023 update: the chain belay/rap on block 4, is reportedly chopped.)

Start as for Tantrum. Climb up about 8m and step L onto the arete. Follow the line of bolts to the top featuring gut-wrenching exposure, and quite classy arete climbing. Some parties start up Deliverance instead.

Hard and grunty climbing on one of the sexiest looking aretes to be found. Start off the little ledge above WC then slap, crimp and wobble your way up past 3 FH to the top. Avoid the temptation to grovel off L and you will be rewarded with some beautiful exit moves!

A very strenuous outing and an excellent section of flared hand jamming. The start has two options, both hard. You can start up CF for a few moves and then traverse in - possibly easier but less well protected. The direct start up the seam is nails but has good gear. Brilliant sustained climbing sees you to the tree on the ledge. Although Rob Staszewski and Rick McGregor attempted the route in various styles, it was up to Kim Carrigan to free the route by the direct.