Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
27 | |||||
Tasmania East Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress | |||||
27 | ★★ Granite Planet
| 35m | |||
Tasmania East Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs White Stack | |||||
27 | ★★★ The Dark Side
| 30m, 4 | |||
27 | Kodak Tart
| 15m, 2 | |||
Tasmania East Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Alchemy Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Ockham's Razor
Pure slab in the middle of Alchemy Wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place #3 Camelot in break, climb the final bulge to the top. Needs grade confirmation. FA: Simon Bischoff, 2013 | 20m, 6 | |||
Tasmania South East Tasman Peninsula Mount Brown The Paradiso | |||||
27 | ★★ Snooze and You Lose
| 35m, 14 | |||
Tasmania South East Tasman Peninsula Fortescue Bay The Totem Pole | |||||
27 | ★★★ The FreeD Route
1
25
2
26
3
27
4
17
The original Ewbank Aid Route, now freed at 25, 26, 27, 17 by Doug McConnell. | 70m, 4 | |||
27 | ★★★ The Sorcerer
1
22
10m
2
25
15m
3
27
40m
A mind-blowing line. The 3rd pitch climbs the arete left of the Free Route. The climbing is sustained and technically demanding.
Gear List: • Double set of cams from .2 to .5 camolots • 2x 30cm quick draws • 1x 60cm quick draw • 14x quick draws • single 60m rope and 1 x 120cm sling • A ton of Psyche! FA: Garry Phillips & Chris Coppard, 2015 | 65m, 3, 9 | |||
Tasmania South East Hobart and surrounds Gunner's Quoin South Face | |||||
27 | ★★ MDMA
| 35m, 6 | |||
South Australia Adelaide Morialta Thorn Buttress | |||||
27 | ★ Japetus Extension
A boulder problem traverse link up into Japetus Direct Finish. Start (sit) left of base of Olympus - dyno rightwards and climb across cave to juggy traverse that leads underneath Sardine etc to base of Japetus. Continue up that route. Best done with a top-rope clipped in prior to embarking on the route itself. Basically a V5/6 problem into an existing 23. | 30m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie Great Wall Area | |||||
27 | ★★★ Body Free Fall Direct Finish
FA: Duncan Graham | ||||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie Callitris Corner | |||||
27 | ★★★ Two faced Guru
| 25m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie The Ramparts | |||||
27 | ★★★ Trouble and Strife
| 50m | |||
27 | Kick Start - Get Your Ass into Gear
| 15m | |||
27 | Jesus Loves Me, The Poofter Direct Start
| 20m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie Checkers Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ yerba mate
FA: HB | ||||
Queensland North Townsville Magnetic Island Rocky Bay Central Block | |||||
27 | ★★★ Brudl
Brudlly good. On the RHS of the block. Starts up the lowest finger crack, up to the horizontal, a move R and up the off finger crack. Finish L into the corner. FA: Doug Hockly, 1999 | 9m | |||
Queensland North Townsville Frederick Peak South Sentinel Inhumanitarian Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Kiteline
DBB. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Ashlee Hendy, 30 Jun 2018 | 13m | |||
Queensland North Townsville Frederick Peak South Sentinel Termite Mound | |||||
27 | ★★ Lost Hanger
Start on small extruding block passed when climbing DBMP. Up jugs passing wires to large horn and a FH. Out past 2nd FH then over lip to final bolt (use 80cm sling). Up slab to summit. Do not place gear on slab and do not second this climb due to knife blade edge on lip. FFA: Steve Ioannou, 2008 | 20m, 3 | |||
Queensland North Townsville Frederick Peak South Sentinel Supernova Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Citizen Arcane
Obvious leaning crack line. One of the best traditional routes around. Take cams up to #3 C4. FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2012 | 24m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Frog Buttress East of the access track | |||||
27 | ★ Anal Teens Direct Start
This beautifully named direct finish came from the title of a porno magazine. Up the face crack on the wall to the R of CTTE. This very bouldery climb features 1 bolt, and lots of panic. Was 25, but the only jug on the whole route decided to fall off! FA: Kim Carrigan., 1981 | 10m | |||
27 | Hallowed Ground
A visionary effort by Matt. The improbably thin line to the right of SM provides good movement on very thin holds throughout. Superb positions and style, with Matt's "at least you won't hit the deck" bolt spacing technique providing loads of spice!! A little contrived, but worth a lap. FA: Matt Hutton, 2003 | 30m | |||
27 | ★★★ The Lord's Prayer
With under 10 ascents in 21 years this is definitely a route not to be taken lightly! On one early attempt, Ian Cameron pulled off a 20m lead fall!!! Incredibly thin edging (to the point of requiring levitation abilities) up the steep face split by a micro seam. Micro cams and RPs provide adequate but spacious protection. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1973 | 30m | |||
27 | ★★ Catcher in the Rye
Super thin face climbing up the shallow V-groove. A high runner can be placed by climbing up Inquisition and stepping across as high up as your ethics let you. Kim had 7 hex nearly half way up the route on the 2nd ascent. Top rope the initial section (achieved by using The Force/levitation), then go up the sustained corner. FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979 | 25m | |||
Queensland South East Sunshine Coast Mt Coolum | |||||
27 | ★ The Spooney Choss Monster
Spoonman across to Iron Man's anchor, continue up past 3 FH and start slinging like a cowboy to arrive at camp 3's belay. 5 slings and a small cam will suffice. FA: & Anthony Lidbetter, 13 Dec 2021 | 35m, 14 | |||
Western Australia South Coast West Cape Howe The Raft Gay Blade Area | |||||
27 | ★★ Gay Blade
All bolts were replaced a few years ago. Theres also 2 ring bolts at top of first pitch so you can low off also Set: M .Law & R. Tyson, 1988 | 50m, 2 | |||
Western Australia Wheatbelt Eaglestone Rocks | |||||
27 | ★★★ Fear and Pain
Start as for Fidget Gene, then move left onto face and follow line of BR. FA: J. Thelwell, 2010 | 14m, 2 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Riverina The Rock The Towers | |||||
27 | ★★ Iron Crossed Chaos
A link of Chaos Roof and Where Iron Crosses Grow. Start as for Chaos Roof. Up past the first few bolts to the roof and instead of pulling the roof move, step L and up into the roof of WICG. FA: MB, Jan 2018 | 25m, 6 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Australian Capital Territory Orroral area Orroral Ridge Mushroom Rock | |||||
27 | ★ Funky Cold Medina
The deceptive and desperate face right of 'Moonsong' with four bolts. The crux is at the top; move left to trad belay. FA: Tony Barten & Andrew Bull, 1989 | 15m, 4 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Australian Capital Territory Orroral area Orroral Ridge Legoland Atrium | |||||
27 | ★★ Freedom Of Information
1
27
2
17
A good trad pitch on perfect rock with ample protection and amazing movement. Frees the old aid climb "Information".
FFA: Duncan Brown, 8 Jan 2017 | 45m, 2 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Australian Capital Territory Tidbinbilla area Gibraltar and Corin Road White Horse Rocks | |||||
27 | ★★★ Yanick the Abel
Up chimney to ledge. Pull onto beautiful blank wall & boulder your way up the thin cryptic crack to the top. First ascent was in commemoration to Yanick Jean-legros & Andrew Abel - both loosing there lives in the mountains Set: Ryan Macpherson FA: Ryan Macpherson, 19 Mar 2023 | 20m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Southern Tablelands Bungonia Gorge South Wall - Main | |||||
27 | ★★★ Overture to the Sun
First two pitches as for Siblings of the Sun. Then from the second belay go directly up to join a hand crack (rather than trending right and up from this belay, which is Siblings). From here continue up the soaring line of bolts with increasing difficulty, with the final 2 pitches tackling the orange headwall (5m L of Siblings' last 3 pitches).
FA: John Fantini late 90s, 2000 | 75m, 7 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Southern Tablelands Bungonia Gorge North Wall - Main | |||||
27 | ★★★ Planet Gorgonberg
Great climbing on the wall just right of 'Olympus Mons'. FA: Andrew Bull, 1999 | 20m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County The 39 Steps | |||||
27 | ★★★ Hollow Men Direct
"This is the way the world ends, not with a bang but a whimper" (T. S. Elliot's The Hollow Men). Fantastic hard climbing. Big moves or big whippers! Stick clip the high first bolt and climb the awesome seam past another 7 or so fixed hangers. Bring trad for between the first two bolts (#0.4-#0.75 cams, small wires). Continue past the lower offs and top the cliff for full value - hopefully the anchor will be moved up next rebolt. FA: G Weigand, 1987 | 28m, 7 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Colliery Western Cliffs | |||||
27 | ★★ Just Barely Breathing
FA: Ian B Anderson, 2009 | 60m, 3, 11 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Mount Banks Banks Gully Amphitheater | |||||
27 | ★★★ Proleptic Decrepitude and Despair
Single 40m pitch overhanging ~12m, half on gear and half on bolts, starting from trad belay (BD #1 and #2) 6m left of the start of Two Nobodies. Up flake feature past 5 bolts. Hard moves off #0.75/#1 cams, then 3 more bolts of punchy climbing to #1, #0.4 and #4 cams to major horizontal. 2 more bolts leads to the upper crux, rising traverse left across a weird hanging feature (avoid trending right into death choss). #2/#3 cams in break below the final roof, then punch out the roof and overhanging prow on amazing pocket jugs, protected by #0.3 and #0.5 cams, leading to final mantle and anchor. Can escape the crag from here via P3 (22) of Two Nobodies. Gear: BD #0.3 to #4, with doubles of #0.75, #1 and #2. FA: Paul Frothy Thomson & Stephen Varney, 12 Sep 2021 | 40m, 9 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | |||||
27 | ★★ Left Wall of Eternity
Start 6m left of Eternity. FA: Unknown, 2000 | 28m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Blackheath Area Perry's Lookdown | |||||
27 | ★★ Walk the Chalk
Easiest access is to rap down Date with Density and walk 100m west along the base to the start. Or, rap 2/3rds the way down Slipstream to the big ledge/scree slope, then walk 30m to the left (looking out) on slopey ledge to DUB at top of arete. 30m rap to DUB then 35m rap to ground. U-Bolts and gear.
FA: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon & Nic Sellers, 2008 | 65m, 2 | |||
27 | ★★★ ORANGE JAM
1
27
20m
2
19
37m
Orsum Rock And Nice Gear Everywhere - Just Ask Mikl (O.R.A.N.G.E. J.A.M.) The awesome crack 5m R of the start of Slipstream. Can be done in one pitch but be careful with rope length. This nook is surprisingly hot on sunny mornings; e.g. if the Boyce maximum is 7C with 30-50km/h W-SW wind, you will be too hot here in the sun. The route goes into shade about 1pm.
Walk 20m L and finish up pitches 3-5 of Slipstream. | 57m, 2 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Blackheath Area Porters Pass SSCC4 Area | |||||
27 | Giddy-Up Cowgirl
FFA: Julian Saunders, 2009 | 53m, 2 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Equaliser Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ The Weakest Link
Steve's contribution to trad climbing. A bit cruxy since a hold broke, but still well worthwhile. The crux is bolt protected. Take 2 or 3 #0.5 camalots, plus singles up to #3. FA: S.Grkovic, 2001 | 22m, 6 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Main Bivouac Ledge | |||||
27 | Tambo Comes to Town
Up to first bolt, up. Start: As for LL. FA: C.Peisker, 1986 | 20m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Echo Point Echo Point Walls | |||||
27 | ★★★ Darkest Congo
Some of the finest and most "out-there" arete climbing in the Blueys, with tonnes of exposure, and situated on one of the most sought-after bits of real estate around. Access as for The Horror.
Frothy Thomson on the First Ascent of Darkest Congo FFA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Simmo & Jared Anderson, 13 May 2023 | 100m, 4 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Lower Blue Mountains Falling Water Wall Lower Cliff | |||||
27 | ★★★ Litany of the Long Sun
A proper long and overhanging monster. The money pitch is 65m long, and overhangs more than 20m!!! Surely there isn't much like that in the Blueys at the grade? Suffice to say, you will get pumped. Rock quality is Bell-esque, so adjust stars accordingly.
FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Simmo, Match & Rick Webb | 75m, 20 | |||
27 | ★★ Spit Your Pity (in My Soul)
2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1x #0.4 (x2 if linking P1 and P2), #0.75, #1, #4.
FFA: Paul Frothy Thomson & Simmo | 70m, 3 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Illawarra and Shoalhaven Point Perpendicular Seaside Windjammer Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Permissability
The overlap right of Hungry Eyes. Awesome moves on great rock. Sustained through the top. FFA: Duncan Hunter, 2009 | 30m, 2 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Illawarra and Shoalhaven New Nowra - Braidwood Road Tianjara Falls Indian Head (north) Beat Up and Thrown Out Sector | |||||
27 | ★★★ Just Beat It
One of the more varied bits of climbing around. Start up "beat up and thrown out" then follow the steel out right, pumpy and powerful to the top bring one plate for the glue in carrot or improvise FA: Dylan Tubaro, 16 Sep 2020 | 20m, 7 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Illawarra and Shoalhaven Kiama Bombo Quarry Closed Sewerage Treatment Plant | |||||
27 | Hangman
The big time route of the quarry. First cleaned by Hill until he got bored with it and gave it to Ralph who finished the job. the climb was done over many weekends as the bumbling Ralph pushed the standards to the min. Apart from all this shit the climb is absolutely worthless and has the 'very' chopped look about it. if you want to fuck around for days trying to get up this mother then you're quite welcome to it, some of the locks are pretty sharp and there aren't many footholds on the whole climb so forget about good boots. (1) The groove to the right of C. Climb the shallow groove on finger locks. As you would expect the runners are pretty tricky to get in and this will probably consume most of your time and flesh. FA: Ralph | 25m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Sydney Metropolitan Eastern Suburbs Watsons Bay Closed The Gap | |||||
27 | Fish Fingers
FA: Michael Law & giles bradbury, 1985 | 75m, 7 | |||
New South Wales and ACT Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland The Cathedral Main Crag | |||||
27 | ★★ Inchworm Groove
This one is for the hard nuts,it was once the hardest trad line in shire, and possibly NSW. Start: Below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or easily to top up anything nearby. Take small gear. FA: Mike Law, 1986 | 8m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Sydney Metropolitan Sutherland Little Moon Bay The Slabs | |||||
27 | ★ The labyrinth
Obvious finger crack, rap rings over the lip. FA: nathanual hebbard, 17 Jan 2022 | 8m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Sydney Metropolitan Hornsby and the North Eagle Rock The Left Wing | |||||
27 | ★★ Daddy Cool Crack
FA: JASON PIPER | 30m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Mt Yarrowyck Lost world Above the cave | |||||
27 | Gwydir arete
In welsh means "sloping lands", and is the name of a local river. funnily enough originates from Gwynedd where i was last working. Basically, poorly protected first moves gets you to a piton, then the crux. http://www.flickr.com/photos/14058315@N00/2638935338/ FA: Dan Honeyman, 2008 | 10m | |||
New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Dome Wall Reality Wall | |||||
27 | New27
FA: Dan Honeyman, 2008 | ||||
New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | |||||
27 | ★★★ Chicks Dig Scars
Excellent finger crack to DBB at top of cliff. Mostly finger-sized gear, but some big cams (#4+) are essential to protect the first hard moves. http://www.flickr.com/photos/kandk/4117216050/in/photostream/ FA: Kyle Dunsire, 2001 Maint: May 2022 | 25m | |||
Victoria North East Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side The Oval Area | |||||
27 | ★★★ Bell Boys Bereavement
Stunning! Below LGL. Rap in, climb out via the arête, slab and think crack past FHs (20m) Finish up LGL. FFA: Stuart Wyithe & Malcolm Matheson, 2000 | 30m, 8 | |||
Victoria North East Mount Buffalo The Gorge - South Side Beowulf Area | |||||
27 | Exhibit A
FFA: Malcolm Matheson | 2 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Chimney Pot Gap Tangerine Slide | |||||
27 | Boys That Grow Plump In The Night
Powerful climbing with a truly evil start, up thin flake to overlap. Looks good, bolts may need replacing. The second pitch could be an anti-climax though. Start: Start on wall left of prominent orange off-width corner at left end of crag.
FA: Glen Tempest, 1993 | 50m, 2, 5 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Gilham's Crags - Northside Closed Goat Crag | |||||
27 | ★ Here Comes the Storm
A frustrating crux. The prominent middle crack-line on the orange wall. Stepped corner-crack to ledge. Step right and up line to a slippery crack (awkward to clip FH on left). After difficulties step left and up steep wall. FA: Glenn Tempest, 1990 | 22m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Out to Lunch Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Completely Out to Lunch
Takes centre of orange wall.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Monks (alt), 1991 | 40m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Eagles Head Eagles Head Summit Crags HB Wall | |||||
27 | The Chinstrap Gobbler
Climb the right leading sickle/crack on the steep orange wall to the left of Thesinger. The top of the climb is equipped with chains for descent. Can be climbed with a full set of standard rocks. FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2011 | 30m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Harrop Track Eagles Head Lower Tier Left Side | |||||
27 | ★ Cherry Boy
Geoff was pointed at this to keep him away from STD Wall. Thin technical seam up the overhung wall at the left end of the crag. Might be more popular if the crappy fixed wire was replaced with a bolt. FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984 | 20m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range The Fortress Area The Fortress Summit Block | |||||
27 | ★★★ Passport to Insanity
1
20
50m
2
27
20m
3
18
40m
"The best line in Australia...". Also notable for the fact that Nyrie Dodd's free ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 27. The second pitch roof-crack could hardly be in a better position. This is also a superb mixed climb at 20, M2 if the roof is aided. Sadly it is often under-estimated and the detritus of retreat is often evident. It is not a practice route. The start is rather obvious.
FA: K. Lockwood & J Friend, 1974 FFA: Nyrie Dodd, 1986 | 110m, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Scoop Rocks | |||||
27 | ★ Framed
Start up 'The Honeymoon is Over' then clip a bolt way out R. Swing R to the nose and up the wall past a PR. FA: Dave Jones & Richard Heap | 17m | |||
27 | ★★ The Honeymoon is Over
Splitter steep finger crack on the right side of 'The Prow'. FA: Malcolm Matheson | 17m | |||
27 | ★★★ Convicts
Mega line right through the guts of the wall with a bold right leading finish. The reachy start still stumps Malcolm. He can do the rest at 26... | 17m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Band Of Gypsies | |||||
27 | ★★★ Grand Oral Disseminator
Watch out for skating cams and feet on the slick rock. FA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 2005 | 25m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | |||||
27 | ★★★ Desert Rose
Another superb line. The best 27 in the 'Grampians' - although most think its actually 28! Start: Start about 8m R of After Midnight. FA: HB, 1994 | 30m, 8 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Eureka Area Eureka Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ String Theory
Start: Start as for AP
Adam Demmert and John Schmit climbed pitch 1 in 2009. The Adam and Malcolm did the second in 2014 FFA: adam demmert, jono schmidt & Malcolm Matherson, 17 Nov 2014 | 80m, 2, 8 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area South-East Mt Difficult Range The Watchtower | |||||
27 | ★ Slam Dunk
Shallow, bulging groove 5m R of Purple Haze. FA: Mike Law & Stephen Hamilton, 1991 | 30m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Town Cliffs The Terraces | |||||
27 | ★★ Conditions of My Parole
The obvious Arapilesean sleazefest through the cave. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 26 Feb 2021 | 20m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Central Grampians Bundaleer Area Bundaleer | |||||
27 | Surfing With the Aliens
Slabby seam with offset edges on far left end of cliff. Shallow corners 15m left of Whitebait. Three eye-bolts. Crack above. Advisable to stick clip the first BR. Rapchains. FA: Steve Chapman, 1999 | 20m, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Briggs Bluff Area Centurion Walls Lower Centurion Walls | |||||
27 | ★ Compressor Route
Rarely repeated. A long route with a sting in the tail. Climb past BR and broken rock into scoop, then very bouldery move left across cave. At sixth ring bolt go right and direct up face past limestone like large pocket and micro edges through bulge. 9 RBs and chain lower off. FA: Nick McKinnon, 2002 | 20m, 9 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Briggs Bluff Area Centurion Walls Upper Centurion Walls | |||||
27 | ★★★ Desert Crack
On the far right side of the chossy cave is a very obvious overhanging finger sandy crack. Aid this using cams to size #1 and some birdbeaks for the top. Might go free at grade 25? Rap off shitty sling. This now goes free at grade 27, will become super classic trad crack test price. Probably the best true finger crack in the grampians. Gear 0.1 to 0.5 bd x4 FA: Neil Monteith (solo), 2000 FFA: mark & Glenn Tempest, 27 Nov 2018 | 14m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians NE Mt Zero Range G-Land | |||||
27 | The Righteous and the Wicked
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27 | The Convenience Store
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27 | Lyrical Gangster
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Clicke Wall Clicke Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ One Bed to the Left
Outstanding arete with some very technical moves. Rebolted 2011 (thank goodness). Start: 10m L of 'Clicke Crack' is the scarily exposed traverse which leads left to the main section 'Clicke Wall'. Start just L of the scary bit, under the L side of the obvious short arete. FA: Dave Jones. Bolted & attempted by Scott Camps., 1997 | 18m, 4 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Closed Gun Buttress | |||||
27 | ★★ Crazy Da Must Sing
Excellent climbing with a very technical finish. One of the only Scott Camps projects that he actually managed to get up! FA: Scott Camps & Peter Griffen, 1988 | 18m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Inkido Roof
This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls. Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1993 | 12m | |||
27 | ★★ Tyger, Tyger
Burning bright. Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'. A burly start leads into the corner which takes you to the roof, which has three manky pitons (and bomber gear). From here there is a tough move at the lip and 2 FHs before the lower off. FA: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990 | 20m, 5 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - South | |||||
27 | ★★ Rattler
2 bolt boulder start to RS. Classic!! | ||||
27 | ★★★ Mr Que
This linkup provides an easier way to do Tourniquet p2 as a single monster pitch from the ground. Climb Mr J p1 to it's 2nd last bolt, slopy traverse R to middle of black streak (cams), spicy up black streak into the spacious cave. Join Tourniquet pitch 2 up the arete. | 45m, 10 | |||
27 | ★★★ World Party
1
21
20m
2
27
13m
3
24
20m
The stunning final pitch is one of the very best on the wall. Before you get there, there's a hard crux on the 2nd pitch. The hanging 2nd belay is best avoided by linking pitches 2 and 3, while pitch 2 is easily worked from the ground if you have a recalcitrant belayer. Start on the elevated ledge, 7m R of the top of the boulder and just R of the small tree, at a short fat flake on the slab.
FA: Peter Cresswell (1), Andy Pollit (2 & 3), 1990 | 53m, 3, 9 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
27 | ★ Naja pitch 1
| 25m | |||
27 | ★★★ Mirage
Variety! The famous HB dyno route as immortalized by Simon Carter's photos in the early 1990s. Take a full rack up to #2.5Fr, including Aliens, RPs, and sling runners (and/or double ropes) to minimise drag. Start as for Sirocco.
FA: Malcolm Matheson (pitch 1), 1990 FA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2013 | 35m, 2, 15 | |||
27 | ★★ Pythonesque
A good option if you think Father O eases off too much after its crux. Start as for Father O, until just past it's 3rd bolt. Now head up the R side of the scoop, through bulge past 2 FHs and 2 RBs (thin crux direct past 2nd RB - deduct a grade (and maybe some self respect) if you deviate L around this bolt into Father O) to break. Trend R from break to top. Take cams & wires. If that's not enough harder climbing for you then throw in the worthwhile direct start, from the middle of the belay ledge and heading up L (good tiny trad) to Father O's first bolt. FA: Will Monks, 2013 | 35m | |||
27 | ★★★ The Seventh Banana
A good aid climb turned into a great free climb. The first pitch is worth a star or two in its own right and is justifiably very popular with Taipan virgins. Start 25m R of The Great Divide, and 8m R of The Chick is Trouble.
FFA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson FA: FA Nick Reeves, Dave Mudie & Steve Due (alt), 1975 | 55m, 2, 6 | |||
27 | ★★ The Great Divide
Wonderful climbing based on the sharp, undercut arete right of Dance of Life. The crux is very hard, but very short. If you pull on the crux bolt it's an excellent 25M1. Take a full rack incl. 2 #3.5 cams, and 15-20 quickdraws. Start directly below the impressive hanging arete which soars upwards from the R side of a large roof. This is just L of where the walk-in meets the cliff, and is where the track along the base balances along the top edge of a large smooth-faced boulder.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Martin Scheel, 1984 | 50m, 2, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Olive Cave | |||||
27 | ★★★ Malice
The gobsmaking left leaning line in the centre of the cave finishing near the end of 'Tazer'. One FH at start and one right near the finish. The rest is old school trad! Malcolm flashed it for the second ascent. FFA: adam demmert, 2008 FA: Adam Demmert, 2008 | 35m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Upper Curtain Wall | |||||
27 | ★ Encore
Start as for Cliffhanger. Continue straight up passing a bolt. At the roof reverse Curtain Call for 3m. Gain the headwall above via a neat pocket sequence (crux) passing two bolts. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009 | 30m, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Lower Curtain Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Bada boom
Climb Cut Short for a few metres until you can gain the hanging orange/grey wall to the left. Up this on delightful incuts, slopes, razors, and pockets to gain a series of beautiful pockets above an orange overlap. Make a span leftwards above the lip to pick up a vertical seam through a bulge then stagger over this to join Tapestry at the end of its traverse. Finish up Tapestry. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009 | 30m, 5 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group High Dive Gully | |||||
27 | ★★ Power Corruption and Lies
"Power" your way along the slopey traverse line 4m down and right of "Cellular Destruction" to a bolt. Now up past second bolt to letterbox slot (#0.75 BD cam or better, #0.1 BD cam in the smaller gap leaving space for your hands). Up (being careful not to escape out R to the easier ground on the arete and incur the ridicule of the climbing community) into Cellular Destruction at the end of its traverse and finish as for it, complete with its hideous mantle. FA: Geoff Weigand, 1985 | 15m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Mysteries Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Pooh Sticks
Nowadays largely ignored but still worth doing in it's own right. Originally started by stepping off the pillar into the line but now incorporates the direct start from the ground. Where the connection moves left into 'Anus Horribilus', continue straight up via the traditionally protected arete. FA: Roland Foster, 1989 | 22m, 3 | |||
27 | ★★ Model Phantom
Thin stuff. Up 'Blue-Eyed and Blond' then veer left into the crack of Mysteries. Undercling the crack to gain gravelly crimps past two bolts, then easier ground above. FA: Geoff Weigand., 1985 | 25m, 2 | |||
27 | ★★ Tigger
Old Paul Hoskins project re-equipped and sent. Ultra-smeary! Start: Start on left side of 'Mysteries Wall' proper. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004 | 12m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | |||||
27 | ★ The Fortress RHV
Start up Fortress to 2nd bolt, then right and up trying very hard to avoid going back L into the original (and better) version. FA: George Fieg (?), 1995 | 12m, 2 | |||
27 | ★ Mormon Poultry
Two bolts left of fortress lead into FYN DS FA: Simon Weill | ||||
Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Tjuringa Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Akakage
Like its neighbours, a very rarely repeated route that drives straight through the belay of 'Common Knowledge'. 'Fantastic' position and great rock, but a ridiculously hard fingery crux that has baffled quite a few aspiring suitors. Two bolts protect the business. FA: Masanon Hoshina, 1988 | 30m, 3 | |||
27 | ★★★ My Soul to Keep
An ultra technical piece of climbing which is bold in places. Climb 'Odd Spots' for 5metres . Place a high runner in Strangers Eliminate then reverse a move and make a rising traverse rightwards, crossing 'Bad Cheques' then joining 'Tjuringa' at its midway flake. At the flake step down a move and continue traversing right past to 2 bolts to the undercling feature, before heading straight up to join 'Tjuringa' at its first belay. This last section is bold 21 in its own right. Double ropes are essential. Note: 50m ropes may not be long enough to lower the climber back to the ground therefore use double 60m ropes. HB 1, 'Camelot' 1, BD Hexentric 1 are essential gear. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006 | 35m, 4 | |||
27 | ★ Working for the Man
1
27
45m
2
19
30m
3
12
45m
Perhaps the most preposterous traverse at the mount. done ground-up in a push. Triple rack up to #6 mandatory, ledge optional but recommended.
FA: Christopher Glastonbury & Chris Abernethy, 21 Oct 2021 | 120m, 3 |