Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Dry Creek Carpet Slabs | |||||
10 | ★ First Offender
4m left of the prominent third corner on the left hand side of the cliff. You can do it with wires. FA: Anthia Shem, Kerry Houston & Geroge Adams, 1999 | 15m, 8 | |||
13 | ★ The Carpet
2m right of First Offender. follow bolts to chains. FA: Ian Robertson & George Adams, 1999 | 18m, 7 | |||
13 | Washboard
1m right of The Carpet. FA: Merck Niewarowski, Wally Niearowski & Georgr Adams, 2000 | 15m | |||
16 | Razor Wire
Follow route up third prominent corner. FA: Luke Adams & George Adams, 1999 | 20m, 8 | |||
14 | Geratric Dreaming
3m right of the third prominent corner. follow bolts on small holds. FA: Kerry Houston, George Adams & Colin Bolton, 1999 | 18m, 7 | |||
16 | ★ Escape Route
2m right of Geriatric Dreaming. FA: Luke Adams & George Adams, 1999 | 18m, 5 | |||
17 | ★★ Gilloutine
4m right of third prominent corner. FA: Luke Adams & George Adams, 1999 | 20m | |||
15 | Hard Labour
At the right hand end of the crag. 8m left of the start of The Journey. Follow bolts. FA: Kerry Houston, Colin Bolton, Mark Dudley & George Adams, 1999 | 20m | |||
16 | ★ Dancing Without Moving
2m right of hard labour. FA: Kerry Houston, Colin Bolton, Mark Dudley & George Adams, 1999 | 20m | |||
16 | Dudley Do Right
1m right of Dancing. Up slab through roof to journey bolt lower off. FA: Mark Dudley, Luke Adams & George Adams, 1999 | 10m | |||
18 | The Journey
The Girdle start at right hand end of crag. follow bolts and finish at chain on Razor Wire or Down First Offender. FA: Luke Adams & George Adams, 1999 | 40m | |||
Dry Creek Bee Sting Wall | |||||
V3 | ★★ The Labourer
Sit start with hands on slopers. Head slightly right through slopers and mantle out. FA: Karsten, 27 Mar 2016 | 2m | |||
21 | Bee Hive | 8m | |||
23 | Drill Scar | ||||
25 | ★★ Amigo Mio | ||||
24 | ★ Soft Cock
FA: Giancarlo Costagliola, 2011 | ||||
26 | Religious Power | ||||
25 | ★★ Twelve Oysters
FA: Marinko Soldic, 2011 | 13m | |||
26 | Bee Sting
FA: Giancarlo Costagliola, 2011 | 13m | |||
26 | La Mano
FA: Giancarlo Costagliola, 2011 | 12m | |||
28 | Broken Hopes
FA: Giancarlo Costagliola, 2011 | 9m | |||
V3 | ★ Sun Dried Gecko
A popular traverse. Starting either on the left or right hand side of the wall traverse the wall until the end. | ||||
Dry Creek Sorry Andrea Wall | |||||
V5 | ★ NS
stand start with right hand high in undercling and left hand on palm press smear. Follow curving vertical small crack. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ NSA
Stand start using the footer of Shark or the small undercling next to it and the LH in the undercling of 'NS'. Pull on with a R foot smear and L foot in the NS edge and top out. FA: Redanon | ||||
V4 | ★ Swimming Through a Shark Attack
Direct to 'Shark'. Gain crystal slot with LH, match, then dyno for top with RH (edge) and top out. Learning Curve is off. FA: Redanon | ||||
V5 | ★★ Shark
Stand start with hands in high crimp and commit to a big move to the top. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Lunge
Sit start with right hand in prominent side pull. Launch to high vertical side pulls and top out. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ The Learning Curve
Sit start 'Sorry Andrea' crack and follow the curving sloping ledge right and top out. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Let's Learn About Sharks
Sit start as for The Learning Curve, follow through to mantle, then continue to trend left into Shark at its slot hold, and finish up all of this. | ||||
V0 | ★★ Sorry Andrea Crack
Sit start prominent crack and follow it. Top out. FA: Andrea Torrealba de Costagliola | 4m | |||
16 | Drop Flake
Obvious flake to the left of Sorry Andrea. Finish at chains. | 14m | |||
18 | ★ Sorry Andrea
Start up crack then follow bolts to chains. | 12m | |||
22 | Sorry Man
An extension of Sorry Andrea. Climb Sorry Andrea and finish as for Camera Man. | 15m | |||
27 | ★ Spastic Face
Up left hand side of face 2m to the right of Sorry Andrea. | 12m | |||
27 | Camera Man
Slightly right of Spastic face. Follows bolts in centre of wall to chains. | 14m | |||
24 | ★ Creeks Roof RHV
Climb the corner to the roof. When at the roof traverse the overhang right and finish at chains in corner. | 15m | |||
24 | Creeks Roof Direct
At the roof go direct and finish at the chains. | 15m | |||
23 | Bird Cage
3m right of Creeks Roof directly up the arête. Finish at chains on right. | 12m | |||
17 | Sandy Ledge
2m right of Bird Cage. Up corner and once at layback crack head right onto slab and up this to high chains. Mixed pro. | 18m | |||
26 | Caro
Open project. Clip the first bolt of Sandy Ledge then head slightly right to bolt and tackle bulge head on finish at chains. Very bouldery. | 12m | |||
18 | ★ Spank Me
Start up arête to ledge. Head slightly right and up overhang to chains. FA: 2012 | 12m | |||
V4 | Slide Off
2m right of Spank Me. Up through diamond like feature and top out. | 5m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Against All Odds
Previously the open project. Line starts a metre right of 'Slide Off'. Stand start. Grab two opposing sidepulls and make a hard deadpoint for 'the hold', match, then don't lose it on the slopey top out. In the V6 or 7 category for dyno's. Significantly harder than other 5's in the same area. FA: Redanon | 5m | |||
V3 | The Gaston
Start a couple of metres right of 'Slide Off'. Head up thin vertical seam and top out. Very reachy! | 5m | |||
16 | Loose Crack
The prominent left trending crack opposite the main wall. Follow it and top out. FA: Marinko Soldic | 13m | |||
17 | Never Again
Right hand corner of the area up the blocks. Very loose rock. FA: Marinko Soldic | 20m | |||
V1 | ★ Pink Face
Start matched on two edges and make your way up through an unlikely crimp rail and top out. You can finish at the jug too if you don't want to top out. | 4m | |||
V3 | Pretty in Pink
Start holds of Pink Face then dyno to the grey jug line halfway up that problem. Note the Pink Face starting jug has since broken - still doable from a lower hold, but likely more difficult FA: Redanon | ||||
V0 | ★ Estatice
Start matched on large edge and head up. | 4m | |||
V0 | Solidago
Start with left hand on edge and right hand on edge and head up. | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Anthirrium
Sit start with left hand and right hand on small edges and head up. | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Helecho
Start with hands on edges and head up. | 4m | |||
★ Helecho Flight
Start holds of 'Helecho' then dyno approx 5'7" to the good jug near the finish of that problem. Open project. | |||||
V0 | ★ Girasol
Sit start low in crack and follow it to the top. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Clavel
Sit start with hands matched on large jug. Head straight up and top out. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Tulipan
Start on big jug and make the first few moves of 'Honga' then head up to left hand gaston and bad right hand side pull to top out. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Swagetti Yolonayz
Start with both hands on central jug. Dyno up and slightly right to jug. Taping recommended. Topped out on FA however this does no affect grade. FA: Hung, 2 Jul 2016 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Hongo
Start matched on big jug. Traverse wall right and finished matched on jug on right hand side. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Flor
Start with left hand on small crimp and right hand on tiny chip and head straight up. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Rosa Left
Sit start with left hand on small chip and right hand on side pull. Veer slightly left then up. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Rosa Right
Sit start with left hand on small chip and right hand on side pull. Veer slightly right and up. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Orquidea
Sit start with hands matched in side pull. Follow arete and top out. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Gardenia
Start as for 'Orquidea' and when at large edge veer left and top out as for 'Rosa Right'. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Andrea's Traverse
Sit start matched on the big hold. Traverse left and finish when you pass the crack. Can Also be climbed in reverse. | ||||
Buckle Crag | |||||
13 | Buckle Up!
The central line with innovative fixed gear. Follow the vertical weaknesses up and right around the corner. Continue up the crack and top out. Has an assortment of gear hammered into the weaknesses including an old car seat belt buckle. Best fixed gear ever! Gear appears to be very old. Probably best to be climbed on trad judging on how old the gear is and how it's inserted into the rock. Literally just bolts hammered into the cracks. FRA climbed on the gear for them old school feels. FA: pamelalansbury, 6 Sep 2020 | 8m | |||
Mantle Project
Sit start under roof. Head up arete to a tricky mantle to decent holds above the slab. Move right and down climb the corner of "Buckle Up!". | 5m | ||||
Anstey Hill Quarry | |||||
18 | Musk and Strawberries
Up the highest point on the wall to the tree, through the dimple at three quarter height. FA: Heath Timberlake | ||||
16 | ★★ Unknown carrot line 1
Line of carrots up the middle of the choss slab to chain anchor. | 4 | |||
16 | ★★ Unknown carrot line 2
Line of carrots up the right side of the slab, traverse left to chain anchor. | 4 | |||
Black Hill Ambers Gully Amber Boulders | |||||
V3 | ★ Ambers Ruin
Sit start with both hands in crack. Follow the crack and top out. Essentially a crack eliminate but climbs nicely as a distinct line | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Unnamed 2
Sit start with left hand on the good pinch down low in next to crack and right hand on the sloping arete. Compress your way up to the top and top out. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ The Nose
Start with your left and right hand on sidepulls. Then move into crimps, following the line up the left-hand side of the slab. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Unnamed 4
Climb the centre of the slab. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Unnamed 5
Climb the right hand side of the slab. | 4m | |||
V5 | Unnamed 6
Start matched on the layback edge on the overhanging arete and follow the arete straight up. | 5m | |||
V0 | Unnamed 7
Sit start with left hand on edge and right hand jug. Climb slightly left and top out at it's highest point. | 2m | |||
V0 | Mmm, Smooth Calves
Follows the thin crack feature straight to the large blocky side pull above. Mantle out. | 5m | |||
Black Hill Death Star Rogue Squadron | |||||
24 | Rogue Squadron
Left most route (trad) starting under roof and trending up and left toward left arete on big holds to a pumpy finale. No independent anchor. FA: Paul Kinnane, 2012 | 12m | |||
24 | Squadron Righthand
Start as for Rogue Squadron but head right through bottom roof on less than ideal rock quality. Up face, then back left to finish as for Rogue Squadron. TR recommended due to poor rock in the lower half. | 12m | |||
23 | ★★ Trench Run
Central line of this wall. Start off slopey features to gain the big sidepull then up the weakness to mantle onto the mid-height slab, then climb the short wall above to anchor. FA: Paul Kinnane, 2012 | 12m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Jabba
Boulder problem start 3m right of Trench Run, past 1st BR (stick clip) leads to break, then 2nd BR on slab (tricky to see from the ground). Mantle slab and trend left into the finish of Trench Run (same lower off). FA: Paul Kinnane, 2012 | 12m, 3 | |||
17 | Ja Ja Binks Must Die
Right line (trad) up crack weakness. Trend left at the top to loweroff Trench anchor. | 12m | |||
Black Hill Death Star Vader Wall | |||||
24 | ★★ Darth Vader
Start on the small jug in the cave under the very overhung crack weakness. Stick clip fixed wire then launch up the weakness to gain jugs and 1st BR. Rest up then truck across the very overhung black arete passing 3 BRs to mantle onto the slab. Anchor 3m further up. FA: Paul Kinnane, 2012 | 3 | |||
25 | ★ Lord Vader
Climb Darth Vader but instead of exiting onto the slab at the 3rd BR, continue along overhung arete to a 4th BR and another crux. Mantle after the 4th. FA: Paul Kinnane, 2012 | 15m, 4 | |||
26 | ★ Emperor Palpantine
Start as for Darth Vader then at the 1st bolt of that route head left into the roof to a break, then bouldery moves direct through this past an edge lead to a jug, then into Darth Vader Extension at its last bolt. FA: 2012 | 15m | |||
Emperor Palpentine Direct Start
Direct start has been equipped but remains unclimbed. | |||||
V5 | ★ Star Wars Episode 1
Boulder problem at the base of the Vader cave starting off two underclings, Pull on, then bust a move to a sloper with an edge on it, then up to the small jug (start hold of Darth Vader). | ||||
V4 | ★ Star Wars Episode 2
Start at small jug (Darth Vader start) then head up and left to via a slot and undercling to finish on two opposing gastons. | ||||
V6 | ★ Star Wars Box Set
Link episode 1 & 2 | ||||
15 | Womp Rats
Up the L side of the slab L of the cave. Trend L up the buttress past a small sheoak. FA: Josh Magor, 2012 | 15m | |||
10 | Princess Leia
Start as for Womp Rats but head up R into the short chimney formed by the block. Step R (crux) to the Darth Vader lower-off. FA: Caroline Kinnane, 2012 | 8m | |||
Black Hill Cable Crag | |||||
12 | Dirk
| 20m | |||
19 | Dirk DS
| 20m | |||
17 | Late Night
| 20m | |||
21 | Totally Wired
| 20m | |||
17 | ★★ Caber Direct
| 18m | |||
22 | Caber Super Direct
| 18m | |||
12 | ★ Caber Tosser
| 18m | |||
21 | Caper
| 18m | |||
12 | ★ Ode to Skweaker
| 15m |