Routes in Mid North

Fixed hangers on route, need bolt plates for the anchor at the top though.

Short but sustained crimping on micro-edges

Start behind the old big pepper tree and amble up to the L end of the halfway ledge. Now climb the narrow, slightly recessed wall above past 8 bolts( WARNING RUSTY OLD BOLTS) and you need hangers

The wall just R of DH with one big spike

Apparently this take the middle of the slab.

Start 1m L of Ianitiation and climb directly up the 'bulging

A diagonal line starting at Ianitiation and finishing at the top of DH

The corner L of Timidity is hardest near the top

It takes the line above SF climb past a rusty hunks of steel ( WARNING DONT FALL AS THE HUNK OF STEEEL WILL OPEN YOU RIGHT UP) follow up to the top

The coner R side of timidity with a loose and dirty exit

The chimney in the center of the lower half of the wall

The corner on the R side of the face leads to the halfway legde

Begin as for DA but you leave this at the broad sloping ledge. Step R to a deep niche and climb vertical cracks to a steep finish

Sit start with both hands on two curved in-cut ledges. Head up and right to the sloper, bump to the diagonal side-pull, then dynamically to the pointed section on the top of the wall. Can drop-off or easily top-out. Grade assumes the prominent protruding section of rock is out.

Up a vague seam 2m L of the alcove.

Start at the back of the alcove. Up.

The crack splitting the top half of the rock R of the alcove.

Just left of Action Potential, head directly up through the blankest and highest section of rock. Flat landing but crux is likely the ~three moves to the top

Up 2m R of Death, just L of a tree.

Sit start on left hand side arete. Traverse right into the start hold of the V3. Keep traversing right and one on the good hold on the slab had up and out. Tricky first half leads to a cruisy finish.

Holds are peeling off the wall, better get in fast, before it becomes unclimbable.

A project climb, running up the plain part of the wall, between KF and UF.

Up the crack of B'ED until the roof. Traverse left to the jug and up through the sloppers above the roof

Follow the crack up the corner to the roof, stay in the corner to finish

Start 1m right of B'ED follow the flat slopping face avoiding the left hand wall, up to overhang, traverse right to finish.

Direct finish over the bulge before the final traverse on BDROMP. BEWARE OF LOOSE ROCK.

2 bolts. Start on the black stained stone follow straight up.

3 bolts. Start near the ULA graffiti and finish straight up

3 bolts with two side by side and one at the top

2 bolts with home-made fixed hangers on the stained stone follow straight up to finish

A traverse start at WTP and follow up to second bolt the traverse across to TAF and finish at top of TAF

On the north-most wall near the walking path. More powerful than it first looks - stand start on big jug on right of column, near the metal girder. Climb up and left, without touching anything beyond the arête. Careful not to startle the locals as you top-out.

Sit start on small ledges and continue up and veering slightly left up at times. Mantle onto the top of the column (possible crux)

Low start (sit- or frog-start) with right-hand on sloper side-pull and left hand on crimpy rail. Continue up the seam on the very-front of the column. Rock is of course quite sandy, which is convenient as you wont need chalk.

Nice crimpy traverse starting from beginning of solid wall nearest road to the first column and top-out up the column before Stone Mason. Be careful with feet to avoid damaging the grout between the stones (the entire traverse can be done comfortably using only solid stone footers)

Follow the two bolts from dihedral then right onto face. Top out on ledge above start with a single-bolt belay (can be backed up with sling around giant metalwork on ledge). All require bolt plates.

Varied climbing up crimpy stonework. Three carrot bolts plus a single-bolt belay (all requiring bolt plates)

Fun eliminate dyno on back-center of the bridge. Start right-hand on the huge black block & left hand one block higher (diagonally left), then jump to catch the big sloper lip at 3/4 height. Also doable semi-statically with a mantle to thumb-catch on underside of the lip. Grade is approximate - need more input!

Straight up the dihedral on back side of bridge near the river