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Springwood Conservation Park Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Nick Foulds Brad Simpson Ryan Nicholls Troy McAndrew terry tynan

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Table of contents

1. Springwood Conservation Park 89 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -27.624402, 153.142509

summary

Not as sharp as Tooheys, but same rock type (I think, but I'm no geologist!) 3-4m high. Plenty of routes to be developed still and some boulders not yet on record still in the park to be sussed out.

description

Only two areas have been documented here but there is lots of rock that when cleaned, provided some great problems at lower grades.

access issues

None, This park is an old reclaimed quarry site and has been excellently re-claimed by Logan council

approach

well maintained paths throughout the park that provide no more than a minute bush walking off the path to access the boulders.

where to stay

N/A

ethic

Be aware this is a multi-purpose community recreation area like Toohey Forest. Be respectful of other park users and try to minimise chalk left behind on boulders after session (TAKE A BRUSH). Ideally use a boars hair or similar brush on this rock, nylon or steel brushes will accelerate erosion here.

history

This park used to be a quarry and has been re-claimed by the Logan city council and made into a beautiful green space amongst the residential areas of this region. As far as I am aware, bouldering here is a fairly new addition to the park so lets keep it respectful and prevent any community backlash they could occur to prevent climbing in this residential park.

1.1. The Prow Area 59 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -27.623255, 153.141777

description

The main area featuring the prominent 'Prow'.

approach

From the carpark: https://maps.app.goo.gl/nxGTjj95pAovR2Fu6

Head up the stairs following the track until it flattens where you'll see a park/BBQ area.(Alternatively park here across from 16 Platau Dr)

Continue along the concrete for approx 150m, a track right into the bush leads to the prow boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 West Face Traverse / Traverse to corner & exit up

Start on the left hand corner. Traverse right along the boulder's length to the Corner problem to finish up Corner. Using all holds and lip as required.

V1 Boulder 5m
2 West Face Traverse - Eliminate

Traverse from the Left hand side to the right hand side to finish up the problem called corner. Keep hands on the face and off the top lip.

V1 Boulder 5m
3 Ezee Peezy

Sit start

V0- Boulder 2m
4 Lemon Squeezey

Sit start

V0- Boulder 2m
5 Worth The Squeeze / Orange Streak

The Orange streak- SS with tricky mantle top out

V1 Boulder 2m
6 Schadenfreude Culture

Between orange and white streaks

V0 Boulder 2m
7 The Dole Bludger Streak

Climb the White Streak- avoiding the small bush at the top.

FA: Unknown

V0 Boulder 3m
8 White Streak Right

Next wide strip of lichen to R of 'White streak'. Sit start with obvious good foot left and jugs.

V1 Boulder 3m
9 Flee the Fire

Start as for “The Roof Is On Fire” but cross up and left to the top of “White Streak Right” to finish as this.

FA: Nick Foulds, 15 Aug 2021

V2 Boulder 2m
10 The Roof Is On Fire

First move is R hand up and right. Feet low under the bulge.

V2 Boulder 3m
11 Robinhood Theory / Left of Tree

Sit start

V0 Boulder 3m
12 From the Rich to the Poor

Starting on small but positive crimps just left of the tree, head right and up past the tree at your back and hugging tight to the face, nice crimp pulling and some fun body balance.

FA: Nick Foulds, 15 Aug 2021

V2 Boulder 3m
13 Tree Traverse

SS on the large jug left of the dead tree then traverse the rooflet left and up into 'Left of Tree.'

V1 Boulder 3m
14 Corner

Standing start with a high foot straight up the corner, obvious jugs all the way.

Sit start variant for a V1 finish.

V0 Boulder 2m
15 Baby Bonus

Start this crag classic, on the left side of the big tree- matched on the predominate jug. Traverse the big bulge to a powerful, morpho slap. Finish up and left.

FA: Dan gordon, 2012

V5/6 Boulder 3m
16 Baby Bonus VF

From the crux jug of Baby Bonus, instead of campusing up and out left, traverse right for 2 metres through slopey jugs and crimps for an extremely demanding finish!

Jimmy Blackhall

V7 Boulder 4m
17 Teenage Wasteland

“Baby Bonus Long”- for the novelty of one side of the “Prowl wall” to the other. Start far left, on the furthest lowest jugs around “Ezee Peezy”. Start racing across the whole wall into “Baby Bonus VF” and finish as it’s VF version, traversing the slopey lip to finish further right.

FFA: Jimmy Blackhall, 2020

V7/8 Boulder 12m
18 It Figures

Start as per Baby Bonus, but after catching the throw, go leftward: up and under the prow, with a committing mantle right over the most prominent point of the prow.

FA: Leon Drummond

V5 Boulder 3m
19 Chin Up

Hands high on jug and pull through to top

V1 Boulder 2m
20 _

Start as for chin up, but follow the line of It Figures: under, then over the prow with a committing mantle. The only crux is not dabbing the tree on your way up.

FA: Leon Drummond

V2 Boulder 3m
21 Campus Up

Start as for CU but campus up and right to lip of 'Straight up' then use feet.

V1 Boulder 3m
22 Straight Up

Standing start.

V2 Boulder 3m
23 One Move Wonder

Start 1m right of 12. Hands start high and slap R for the lip

V0 Boulder 3m
24 The Bong Hole

Sit start inside the small cave under the Beginners Luck slab on perfect crimp rail. Finish at the top of the slab.

FA: Troy McAndrew, 2 Feb 2020

V4 Boulder 3m
25 Beginners Luck

Some fun slab surfing. Not the best landing so bring a spotter.

FA: Troy McAndrew, 2 Feb 2020

VB Boulder 4m
26 Wish

Sit start with left hand in the big pocket, R hand just below in the smaller dimple. Move diagonally right and up through moderate crimps and tricky feet to top out after catching the large jug. The lip is out until you reach the mantle jug.

Nice sequence on good holds.

FA: Nick Foulds, 23 May 2020

V4 Boulder 3m
27 Dream

Same start as Wish but don't gain the jug, continue right through the thin crimps on the face to the end of the bloc and finish up top right corner. Project

Set: Nick Foulds, 15 Aug 2021

V6 BoulderProject 4m
28 Smug

The arete on “Wish” bloc. Stand start with low undercling and LH juggy pocket. Straight up with the arete and face.

V0 Boulder 2m
29 Slab

Easy warm up. Do it with no hands at V2.

V0- Boulder 2m
30 Low Blow Sit

SS at start of Low Blow Traverse and head straight up.

V0+ Boulder 2m
31 Low Blow Traverse

Squat start on nice holds on the left side and stay low, traversing left to right.

FA: Grant Martin, 2005

V4 Boulder
32 Low Prow

Sit start, straight up.

V3 Boulder 2m
33 Low Bro

Sit start with left hand on the juggy arete and right hand in the LOW pocket.

V2 Boulder 3m
34 Integral

Don’t step into corner

V0 Boulder 3m
35 Cutting Corners V0 Boulder 4m
36 Boulder escape

Chimney out from under the boulders

V0 Boulder 4m
37 You're Only Cheating Yourself

Standing start. Don't step into corner

V1 Boulder 4m
38 You're Only Cheating Yourself- Sit Start

Same as "You're Only Cheating Yourself" but from a sit start

FA: Harley Dawes, 20 Jan 2021

V1 Boulder 3m
39 Traverse High

Project?? Traverse left to right along.

Boulder
40 The Honest Traverse

Start as for Cutting Corner and traverse to the right staying lowish, as to finish pocketed headwall.

V2 Boulder
41 Karma Lords V1 Boulder
42 Gluteus Maximus

Start from the undercling and pocket in the cave and do some technical moves into daily high.

FA: Kwan Goddard Lee, Aug 2020

V4 Boulder 4m
43 Daily High V0 Boulder 4m
44 no Boulder
45 Cave exit Boulder
46 How High

Sit start with hands on bottom face jugs, follow obvious solid jugs all the way up.

V2 Boulder 4m
47 The Showstopper

Sit start matching the small crimp rail in the roof. 2 strenuous moves to gain the roof lip. A tricky turn of the lip helps you reach the break from where once established the final moves are straightforward for the brave!

FA: Nick Foulds, 30 May 2020

V4 Boulder 5m
48 Baked Traverse

Sit start in right corner of the cave on a small underclings, out to the large chalked holds. Progress along low on the boulder left, then link into High ball 2.

FA: Todd Herriott, 2012

V2 Boulder
49 A Little Flutter

Sit start off big ledge. Good moves to slightly tricky mantle

V1 Boulder 4m
50 Not much to work with

Sit start and go up the white streak under the cave, then use the crack in the cave to make your way up. Tricky top out.

V1 Boulder 5m
51 Traverse

Starts 4m down hill of 'Low Prow'. From break in wall start with hands on jug & traverse right.

V1 Boulder
52 Easy Dyno

SS. Hands on jug, feet up off grey low rock on wall. L hand R to hold

V0 Boulder
53 Easy Dyno variant

SS. Same start as 'Easy Dyno' but move R hand up first.

V2 Boulder

1.1.1. Bong boulder 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -27.622738, 153.141417

description

The smaller area of boulders just west along the ridge line of the prow area - 30s/1 minute through the brush.

approach

drop off the uppermost track running the northern edge of the park in a southerly direction when you first spot larger sized bits of rock from the path when heading in from the west.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bong arete

Stand start the arete. Brush the slopers and be prepared to beached whale the mantle.

V2 Boulder 2m
2 Easy highball

Up the L face past the scoops.

V0 Boulder 5m
3 Walk in the e-park V0- Boulder 5m
4 Bong Dyno

Start on the Jug and double Dyno up to the corner, then up the arete.

V1 Boulder
5 Bong arete 2

Match start on the undercling then straight up the arete.

Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Warm up route

SS and go straight up on jugs

V0 Boulder 3m

1.2. Coil Preservation Reserve 30 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -27.621767, 153.140048

description

Springwood's brother.

approach

Turn right and drop down hill after coming into park. Don't offend locals, it backs onto their property. If coming in from the western side of the park, take the first left hand turn and follow it up the hill once you reach the top follow the path left.

ethic

Boulders back onto locals property. be respectful of noise, litter and visible remnants post climbing (including chalk marks on the rock).

history

Recently literally 'unearthed' and cleaned to reveal some interesting problems

1.2.1. OCD Boulder 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

description

A fun bloc with multiple good problems. Will most likely need brushing/cleaning as lots of forest debris falls on this rock.

approach

Instead of turning left and going to the original E Park area, go right, drop down the hill. OCD is in the middle of the hill.

history

Originally took 2 hours of cleaning to unearth this boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ferg's Problem

Climb the arete on good holds.

FA: Fergus Simpson

V0 Boulder 3m
2 SS to Ferg's Problem

SS on very sharp side pull(not the big jugs)

FA: Nick Walker

V2 Boulder 3m
3 Geordie Cult

SS with right heel hook on rail. Left foot flags. Slap with left hand for crimp then go again for sharp edge. Rock over for high side pull. Feet up. Slap for top. Mantle off.

FA: Brad Simpson

V3 Boulder 3m
4 Ripe for Eliminates

Traverse from Fergs problem across boulder on small holds.

FA: Brad Simpson

V2 Boulder 2m
5 Saturday Night Finger

Sit start on high LH crimp and RH side pull to small crimps or straight to jug slopper on the right. The key side pull for the old start no longer exists. This high RH makes it less awkward.

FA: Nick Walker

V3 Boulder 3m
6 Now That I'm Clean Again

One of the many warm ups on the boulder

V0 Boulder 3m
7 Don’t Leave Your Valuables Unattended

Start seated with lowest part of the crack LH and incut RH pocket. Figure a way to utilise the small positive crimp on the bulge, in negotiating a long move out right into SNF - finish as that. This line stays low and eliminates the LH and RH Sloper jugs found at the 3/4 height.

FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 15 May 2020

V4 Boulder 3m

1.2.2. Freddies Day Out Boulders 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

description

Just along from the OCD boulders are Freddies day out boulders.

approach

If looking at OCD boulder, these are uphill and left. Please note these boulders border some ones land.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bolton Boy Made Good

Sit start under the roof on crimps.

FA: Nick walker

V1 Boulder 3m
2 Funk Soul Brother

From under the boulder move across and out.

FA: Nick Walker

V2 Boulder 3m
3 Full Tilt

SS with high holds to a slopey topout.

FA: Kwan Goddard-Lee, 2014

V1 Boulder 3m
4 Flow

Sitstart at the start of Full Tilt, then up on nice pockets and traverse out left around the arete to slopey topout up Bolton Boy Made Good.

FA: Alex Mougenot, 2014

V2 Boulder 3m
5 A Toast To Jake The Snake

The left arete of the right boulder.

FA: Jake Walker

VB Boulder 3m
6 No More Smelly Fat Pants

SS to one small crimp. Sharp

FA: Nick walker

V1 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Fat Freddy's Drop Direct

Sit start on rock, straight up and over.

FA: Matt Pelekanos, 26 Apr 2020

V0 Boulder 3m
8 Fat Freddy's Drop

Far left of the bloc, SS on jug and move up and left to top out.

FA: Matt Pelekanos, 26 Apr 2020

V1 Boulder 3m
9 Weekend at Freddie's

Up the arete on the right of the bloc

FA: Matt Pelekanos, 15 Nov 2019

V0 Boulder 3m

1.2.3. Down To Nothing Boulders 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

description

This boulder is getting pretty close to the houses, but it's still part of the reserve. Keep noise to a minimum!

approach

From FDO Boulder walk 30 metres towards the houses and downhill a little bit.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Momentum

Around on the right side of Monument, SS with RH hand sloper on Rside of shelf, L foot high, R foot on flake, mantle up and left and navigate the exit keeping to the the right hand side of the arete.

V1 Boulder 3m
2 Monument

Sit Start at the arete on a good sidepull crimp and slopey pinch. Straight up.

V3 Boulder 2m
3 Gone For Summer

Sit Start on the medium edges. Then pull those slopers or power your way to the lip.

V3 Boulder 2m
4 Undefeated

Sit Start on juggy pinch and pocket. Up and around the arete for the mantle.

V1 Boulder 2m
5 Set Sail

Sit start under the flake. Straight up following the flake.

V0 Boulder 3m
6 Pipeline

Sit start with left on a good crimp and right on a small crimp. The block protruding out underneath the boulder is in.

V1 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The next boulder is 20 metres down the hill from here.

8 When My World Turns Cold

Sit Start on the bottom section of the boulder on a juggy pinch and spike. Then out to the wicked sandstone horns and up!

V0 Boulder 3m
9 Season After Season

Sit start on two crimps to the left of WMWTC, up left to slopey rail and over the top.

V0+ Boulder 2m

1.2.4. Bandit Boulder 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

summary

Right of FDO boulder. Has potential but needs a good clean

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 One Armed Bandit

Start low, pop up to knob

FA: Matt Pelekanos, 15 Dec 2019

V1 Boulder 2m
2 Sand Bandit

Low start with LH on sidepull and RH in pocket.

V1 Boulder 2m

1.2.5. Sandpaper Boulder 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

summary

Slabby boulder just below FDO

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left side

FA: Matt Pelekanos, 19 Dec 2019

V0 Boulder 3m
2 Left face

FA: Matt Pelekanos, 19 Dec 2019

V0 Boulder 3m
3 Right face

FA: Matt Pelekanos, 19 Dec 2019

V0 Boulder 3m
4 Right side

FA: Matt Pelekanos, 19 Dec 2019

V0 Boulder 3m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
VB Beginners Luck Boulder 4m 1.1. The Prow Area
A Toast To Jake The Snake Boulder 3m 1.2.2. Freddies Day Out Boulders
V0- Ezee Peezy Boulder 2m 1.1. The Prow Area
Lemon Squeezey Boulder 2m 1.1. The Prow Area
Slab Boulder 2m 1.1. The Prow Area
Walk in the e-park Boulder 5m 1.1.1. Bong boulder
V0 Boulder escape Boulder 4m 1.1. The Prow Area
Corner Boulder 2m 1.1. The Prow Area
Cutting Corners Boulder 4m 1.1. The Prow Area
Daily High Boulder 4m 1.1. The Prow Area
Easy Dyno Boulder 1.1. The Prow Area
Integral Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
One Move Wonder Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
Robinhood Theory Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
Schadenfreude Culture Boulder 2m 1.1. The Prow Area
Smug Boulder 2m 1.1. The Prow Area
The Dole Bludger Streak Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
Easy highball Boulder 5m 1.1.1. Bong boulder
Warm up route Boulder 3m 1.1.1. Bong boulder
Ferg's Problem Boulder 3m 1.2.1. OCD Boulder
Now That I'm Clean Again Boulder 3m 1.2.1. OCD Boulder
Fat Freddy's Drop Direct Boulder 3m 1.2.2. Freddies Day Out Boulders
Weekend at Freddie's Boulder 3m 1.2.2. Freddies Day Out Boulders
Set Sail Boulder 3m 1.2.3. Down To Nothing Boulders
When My World Turns Cold Boulder 3m 1.2.3. Down To Nothing Boulders
Left face Boulder 3m 1.2.5. Sandpaper Boulder
Left side Boulder 3m 1.2.5. Sandpaper Boulder
Right face Boulder 3m 1.2.5. Sandpaper Boulder
Right side Boulder 3m 1.2.5. Sandpaper Boulder
V0+ Low Blow Sit Boulder 2m 1.1. The Prow Area
Season After Season Boulder 2m 1.2.3. Down To Nothing Boulders
V1 A Little Flutter Boulder 4m 1.1. The Prow Area
Campus Up Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
Chin Up Boulder 2m 1.1. The Prow Area
Karma Lords Boulder 1.1. The Prow Area
Not much to work with Boulder 5m 1.1. The Prow Area
Traverse Boulder 1.1. The Prow Area
Tree Traverse Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
West Face Traverse Boulder 5m 1.1. The Prow Area
West Face Traverse - Eliminate Boulder 5m 1.1. The Prow Area
White Streak Right Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
Worth The Squeeze Boulder 2m 1.1. The Prow Area
You're Only Cheating Yourself Boulder 4m 1.1. The Prow Area
You're Only Cheating Yourself- Sit Start Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
Bong Dyno Boulder 1.1.1. Bong boulder
Bolton Boy Made Good Boulder 3m 1.2.2. Freddies Day Out Boulders
Fat Freddy's Drop Boulder 3m 1.2.2. Freddies Day Out Boulders
Full Tilt Boulder 3m 1.2.2. Freddies Day Out Boulders
No More Smelly Fat Pants Boulder 3m 1.2.2. Freddies Day Out Boulders
Momentum Boulder 3m 1.2.3. Down To Nothing Boulders
Pipeline Boulder 3m 1.2.3. Down To Nothing Boulders
Undefeated Boulder 2m 1.2.3. Down To Nothing Boulders
One Armed Bandit Boulder 2m 1.2.4. Bandit Boulder
Sand Bandit Boulder 2m 1.2.4. Bandit Boulder
V2 Baked Traverse Boulder 1.1. The Prow Area
Easy Dyno variant Boulder 1.1. The Prow Area
Flee the Fire Boulder 2m 1.1. The Prow Area
From the Rich to the Poor Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
How High Boulder 4m 1.1. The Prow Area
Low Bro Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
Straight Up Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
The Honest Traverse Boulder 1.1. The Prow Area
The Roof Is On Fire Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
_ Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
Bong arete Boulder 2m 1.1.1. Bong boulder
Ripe for Eliminates Boulder 2m 1.2.1. OCD Boulder
SS to Ferg's Problem Boulder 3m 1.2.1. OCD Boulder
Flow Boulder 3m 1.2.2. Freddies Day Out Boulders
Funk Soul Brother Boulder 3m 1.2.2. Freddies Day Out Boulders
V3 Low Prow Boulder 2m 1.1. The Prow Area
Geordie Cult Boulder 3m 1.2.1. OCD Boulder
Saturday Night Finger Boulder 3m 1.2.1. OCD Boulder
Gone For Summer Boulder 2m 1.2.3. Down To Nothing Boulders
Monument Boulder 2m 1.2.3. Down To Nothing Boulders
V4 Gluteus Maximus Boulder 4m 1.1. The Prow Area
Low Blow Traverse Boulder 1.1. The Prow Area
The Bong Hole Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
The Showstopper Boulder 5m 1.1. The Prow Area
Wish Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
Don’t Leave Your Valuables Unattended Boulder 3m 1.2.1. OCD Boulder
V5 It Figures Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
V5/6 Baby Bonus Boulder 3m 1.1. The Prow Area
V6 Dream BoulderProject 4m 1.1. The Prow Area
V7 Baby Bonus VF Boulder 4m 1.1. The Prow Area
V7/8 Teenage Wasteland Boulder 12m 1.1. The Prow Area
? Cave exit Boulder 1.1. The Prow Area
Traverse High Boulder 1.1. The Prow Area
no Boulder 1.1. The Prow Area
Bong arete 2 Boulder 1.1.1. Bong boulder
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