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Table of contents
- 1.
Plunkett Conservation Park / Logan Pine Forest
159 in Field
-
1.1.
Ricochet Ridge 6 in Sector
- 1.1.1. The Good, the Bad and the Ugly 4 in Boulder
- 1.1.2. Powerpuff slab 2 in Boulder
- 1.2. Satellite Boulder 6 in Boulder
- 1.3. Shady Gully / Death Gully 2 in Boulder
-
1.4.
Ridgy Didge Area 13 in Area
- 1.4.1. Pussy Boulder 3 in Boulder
- 1.4.2. Two cities boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.4.3. Man Hatch Boulder 4 in Boulder
- 1.4.4. Keyboard Basher Bloc 5 in Boulder
-
1.5.
Logan Pine Cave / Original "logan pine forest" Cave 31 in Area
- 1.5.1. Passively Agressive 1 in Boulder
-
1.6.
Treachery 27 in Boulder
- 1.6.1. Treachery wall 10 in Area
- 1.6.2. Immorality Boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.6.3. colonel’s Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.6.4. Insecurity boulder 5 in Boulder
- 1.6.5. Ezy Axis 5 in Area
- 1.6.6. tyrannosaurus Boulder 4 in Boulder
-
1.7.
The Ridge of Lies 3 in Sector
- 1.7.1. Sharknado Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.7.2. Hammer Head Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.7.3. Seventh Wave Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.8. Goliath sector 14 in Sector
-
1.9.
El Paradiso 11 in Area
- 1.9.1. Paradiso Boulder 5 in Area
- 1.9.2. Start Chalking Boulder 1 in Area
- 1.9.3. Russel Coight Boulder 5 in Area
-
1.10.
Overlook 10 in Field
- 1.10.1. Dreadnought 2 in Boulder
- 1.10.2. Hotspoon 1 in Boulder
- 1.10.3. Suburban Bliss 3 in Boulder
- 1.10.4. Grass Tree Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.10.5. Marianas Trench 0 in Area
- 1.11. Two Smoking Boulders 4 in Area
- 1.12. Off peak boulder 1 in Boulder
-
1.13.
Southern Land 17 in Area
- 1.13.1. Land Of Shadow Boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.13.2. Summer is coming 1 in Boulder
- 1.13.3. Hill Top 14 in Field
-
1.14.
Weathertop Ridge 14 in Area
- 1.14.1. Bikini Bottom Boulders 8 in Area
- 1.14.2. Right Side 6 in Area
-
1.1.
Ricochet Ridge 6 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Plunkett Conservation Park 159 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.814558, 153.142810
description
PLEASE READ ACCESS ISSUES BEFORE BOULDERING HERE!!
Loads of rocks and boulders in the whole conservation park, most rocks in the area are fairly poor quality as far as bouldering goes, until you dig a little deeper and discover some of the excellent bouldering this area has to offer. Plenty more boulders to come as there is still a huge amount of un-sent boulders and potentially undiscovered areas.
access issues
As popularity seems to be growing for the area, it should be noted that there is private property right in the middle of the conservation park. Before stumbling around the bush into private property, please look at a map with the property lines. If you can't find/Navigate a map, ask someone who knows. DO NOT, under any circumstances, go into the private property unless you have permission from the landowners. Unfortunately, the fence lines have seen better days and have fallen over in many places, so if you stick to the established areas, you will be fine.
UPDATE 20/8/2023
It’s now no secret that there is some incredible looking boulders in the private land, Corey Batten has been in touch with the landowners to request access to their property, and they have as kindly as possible denied the request, even if it’s just a meter over their property lines. Their reasons for the denial of access are:
Liability Concerns: Granting permission for access could expose the landowners to potential lawsuits if anyone gets injured while on their land.
Safety and Privacy: The Yarrabilba estate development has extended into the conservation parks, leading to an increase in people coming close to their homes. This situation has become unsettling for them, and they believe that allowing climbers might encourage others to think they have a right to access the land as well.
Personal Protection: The area contains wild pigs and dogs, prompting the landowners to have the right to bear arms on their property for protection. Allowing random access to their land could potentially interfere with their licensing for this protection.
the landowners fully recognise that the fences need urgent repair due to the sudden popularity of the area, they are working with park rangers to address this issue.
The land owners are kind people who deserve to live their life in peace, If you want any further information please contact Corey Batten.
approach
Park on Quinzeh Creek Rd at the wickham peak walking track entrance. Alternatively park roughly 300m further downhill along Quinzeh Creek Rd (-27.807339, 153.146973) for quicker access for most boulders/sectors
history
The first known discovery of this area was by Nate Foster in the early 2000's and he spent some time climbing undocumented around the area with Simon Moses, Vikki Moses and Co. The original Logan pine forest cave was the only documented area for many years and little information was known of the area, perhaps people have been climbing here for years without documenting, who knows? In late 2018 a tip off from Benji Bartholomew about potential boulders in this area hit the right ears. A small crew consisting mostly of Corey Batten, Sam Bowman and Benji Bartholomew with scouting help from Zac Supertramp set off to establish the area. Although there was a lot of trash boulders found at first, they discovered some diamonds in the rough.
1.1. Ricochet Ridge 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.808111, 153.144632
description
The right side of the fork in the track. There is a lot of rock along this ridge with some boulders offering at least one line worth doing. Afternoon after 1pm offers the best shade.
approach
Park at the alternative parking/track down from the main wickham peak trail. Follow the track until you see a burnt out black stump with some rocks placed around the base about 10m before the track dips down into a creek. Head right into the bush here on a small track that leads uphill. Keep following this track and turn right when it comes to a fork along a ridge line.
1.1.1. The Good, the Bad and the Ugly 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.808288, 153.144737
approach
Park at the alternative parking/track (-27.807339, 153.146973) down from the main wickham peak trail. Follow the track until you see a burnt out black stump with some rocks placed around the base about 10m before the track dips down into a creek. Head right into the bush here on a small track that leads uphill. Keep following this track and turn right just before the crest of the hill when it comes to a fork along a ridge line.
   |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Eastwood
Same obvious Start holds as Dawn Caller but head leftish and punch your way through the pockets, spooky top out. FA: Corey Batten, 2 Aug 2023 | V4 | ||||||
| 2 |
★★★ Dawn Caller
Start on the obvious juggy holds, one move straight up before heading out right into mono territory. very committing line with less than perfect landing bring a couple of pads. FA: Corey Batten, 2 Aug 2023 | V9 | 4m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Greasy thug
start two hands on the sloping jug then bust out left before heading back right through pockets and crimps straight up the middle FFA: Corey Batten, 24 Nov 2018 | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 4 |
★ Space Coupe
Sit start on the pocket and high LH crimp. committing top FFA: Benji Bartholomew, 24 Nov 2018 | V2 | 4m | |||||
Corey Batten1.1.2. Powerpuff slab 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.807630, 153.144481
description
Cool pocketed wall with afternoon shade
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Bubbles
Could be harder than v3, stick just right of seam FFA: Corey Batten, 23 Sep 2018 | V3 | 5m | |||||
| 2 |
Halp
The line following the juggy break in the middle FFA: JoJo, 23 Sep 2018 | V1 | 4m | |||||
1.2. Satellite Boulder 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.807509, 153.143698
description
fun boulder right next to a track
approach
Park at the alternative parking/track down from the main wickham peak trail. Follow the track until you see a burnt out black stump with some rocks placed around the base about 10m before the track dips down into a creek. Head right into the bush here on a small track that leads uphill. Keep following this track all the way up over a ridge and passing some big slabs. Boulder will be on the right, next to the track.
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Spacing Out
Squat start in the break on the big rock, and blast up the crimp line over a sketchy landing. At least two attentive spotters required to catch the fall in the space. FA: Angus Davidson & Jimmy Blackhall, Aug 2020 | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Totally Spacing Out
Sit start far right under I.V on LH sloping jug and RH small rail. Move across left, on breaks and jugs, aiming for Spacing out. Finish up this. | V4 | ||||||
| 3 |
★★★ Escape velocity
Harder than it looks. Stick to the scoop/arête on the left side of the boulder. FFA: Sam Bowman, 23 Sep 2018 | V5 | 4m | |||||
| 4 |
★ Sputnik
Crimp line on the right of the boulder. It's punchy. FFA: Corey Batten, 23 Sep 2018 | V3 | 3m | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Universal Vibes
Start on Sputnik, blasting LH into the first crimp, but then cut right for a big move to a bucket. Trickey mid section gains an easy top out. | V3 | ||||||
| 6 |
★ Meteor Shower
Small bloc behind Escape velocity. Sit-start right, on two good holds over lip and very high right foot. Traverse the lip for a series of slopey moves to mantle out about 1/2 metre from the far left of the bloc out. | V4 | ||||||
1.3. Shady Gully 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.809966, 153.143629
description
Slightly overhanging pocketed boulder with late morning / afternoon shade, if you think the landing is bad you should have seen it before... please for the love of god have a spotter keeping climbers hitting the rock behind this boulder.
approach
Park at quick alternate access track. Follow the track until it starts getting steep uphill, turn right at a cairn stay on level ground don't head uphill. Rock hop across the creek. Boulder is 30m past the creek on the left, hidden behind a larger uglier boulder
history
The landing for this boulder alone took many many hours of effort by Corey Batten with help from Sam Bowman, Mitch Keft and Benji Bartholomew.
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Chupacabra
start left hand on arete with left toe hook, trend rightwards up through jug. tricky mantle FFA: Corey Batten, 11 Nov 2018 | V7 | 5m | |||||
| 2 |
★★★ Pinball Machine
start two hand in jugga. excellent problem with a committing finishing move FFA: sam bowman, 4 Nov 2018 | V8 | 4m | |||||
1.4. Ridgy Didge Area 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.811667, 153.144725
description
Park at quick alternate access track. Follow the track until it starts getting steep uphill, the easiest way up through the steep part is turn right at the cairn for Shady Gully and almost immediately head left uphill, there are some sticks layed out heading rightwards and up. All going to plan you should arrive at Pussy Boulder. We are still working on making the easiest way up more visible
1.4.1. Pussy Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.811085, 153.143116
description
Fun little overhanging rock with a couple highly entertaining boulders, the detached rock under the roof is so not in to use
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Octopussy
Start low on big rail at the back of the boulder, follow the rails and top out on the left FFA: Corey Batten, 23 Sep 2018 | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Pussy Galore
Start right hand side as for pussy direct, but head left along the lip and mantle through the middle. FFA: Corey Batten, 23 Sep 2018 | V3 | 3m | |||||
| 3 |
★ Pussy direct
The easier, less scary and way less cool variant FFA: sam bowman, 23 Sep 2018 | V3 | 3m | |||||
1.4.2. Two cities boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.811346, 153.144237
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ A tale of two cities
Super crimper! Start right hand and heel on the sandy flake and left hand on the good crimp. Punch your way up through some bad crimps and spring into a glory jug to finish. Please don’t brush the sandy right start self to much it needs to be sealed. it’s endlessly sandy and with out it the problem may be impossible. Update: An attempt has been made to preserve the flake, as it was crumbling a little more with every attempt. FFA: sam bowman, 23 Sep 2018 | V10 | 4m | |||||
1.4.3. Man Hatch Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.811935, 153.145265
/42/c9/42c92f019d50fe0c2556872e3ee1a57c990cfbed)   |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Man hatch
Sit start with left hand under cling and right hand low on arete. Right detached boulder is out. FFA: Corey Batten, 28 Oct 2018 | V4 | 3m | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Duh Commoonity
Sit start on two sloping crimps and up to the grassy jug. Immediately traverse left and up from the obvious crimp rail. Bring brushes to assist... FA: Mel Taylor, 11 Oct 2020 | V4 | 3m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Crumbs in the carpet
Stand-start this beautiful arete problem. Mantle at the largest point of the boulder and don't escape right to F.U.C.K FFA: Sam Bowman, 28 Oct 2018 | V4 | 5m | |||||
| 4 |
Foxtrot Uniform Charlie Kilo
Stand Start to the right of C.I.T.C with a choice of good holds. Up you go to a no-fall-zone mantle out. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Aug 2020 | V1 | 4m | |||||
1.4.4. Keyboard Basher Bloc 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.811315, 153.144111
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
What Goes Around
What goes around, comes back around down this way to- literally this is the down climb for this bloc. The furtherest left line, stand start hands matched on right tending mini corner and straight up the ledges to a easy mantle. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Aug 2020 | VB | ||||
| 2 |
Pay Your Dues
FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 2020 | VB | ||||
| 3 |
★★★ A Crack In Everything
FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 2020 | V1 | 4m | |||
| 4 |
The Delusion of Grandeur
FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 2020 | V1 | ||||
| 5 |
★★ Zen Garden
Stand start in front of the wide grass tree in the white rock. RH flat hold and LH in crack pocket- move left and then big move up into black rock. Water your Zen garden moving right to a tall, committing top out- straight up the tallest part of this bloc. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Aug 2020 | V0+ | 5m | |||
1.5. Logan Pine Cave 31 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.814491, 153.133902
description
The first cave to be documented in the area.
access issues
One of SEQ's easiest approaches for a cave.
approach
An easy 5 minute flat walk in, improved by the new housing estate built at Yarrabilba. Park at the end of Byfield Place, Yarrabilba in the residential area and walk directly onto the bike/hike track, turning left (north). Follow this straight and along the dirt road without turning off for 5 minutes. Alternative parking spots even closer are to be found at: https://goo.gl/maps/gK4ANJQqWaNU963E8 on Dryander Street, makes the walk in 1-2 minutes.
ethic
Rubbish and litter is a massive issue around here. Please take out what you bring in, and also anything else you may find that is rubbish.
history
Rick White was known to train here in the 80’s.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Duce Moose
Kiddies problem or the down climb | VB | ||||||
| 2 |
Moose Knuckles
Stand start with slopey holds and move up. | V3/4 | ||||||
| 3 |
★★★ Pray to Stay
Start in the deep back left on crimp rail and join on the second hold of made to stray FA: Corey Batten, 11 Jun 2023 | V7 | 8m | |||||
| 4 |
★★★ Made To Stray
A yesteryears classic. Sit start towards the centre back of cave with long grey undercling rail. Very cool sequence gains the small right trending corner, tough mantle out FA: Ric White | V6 | 6m | |||||
| 5 |
★★ The Mouth Of Madness
Start on Made to Stray but instead of going straight up bust out left along the obvious crimp rails, head up once the crimps start turning slopey, finishing up on the big round hold over the lip. Keep your feet OFF the cave floor and boulder to the left. Feet above vegetation line. Starting on Pray to Stay is an unsent pumpers dream line Beta: https://youtu.be/IGYyt1fR_A4 FA: Corey Batten, 9 Jul 2023 | V9 | ||||||
| 6 |
★ Reckless Tracks
Stand start on the right side of the lip of the cave. Moving up and left for the same mantle finish as MTS. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 2019 | V3 | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ 808
Start on rail inside left side of the cave and bust out to top of “Made to Stray”. FA: Liam Sutcliffe, 6 Jul 2021 | V5 | 4m | |||||
| 8 |
Dirty Pigs
Left side easy wall out. | V0 | ||||||
| 9 |
Easily Amoose'd
Left side of the cave, punching out | V5 | ||||||
| 10 |
★★★ The Hand That Crimps The Rail
Start on the left inside rail as for Easily Amoose'd and staying on the outside rails join into I Oink, Therefore I Ham FA: Corey Batten, 18 Jun 2023 | V8 | ||||||
| 11 |
Roof project V12/V14
The insane, thin, finger crack that splits the whole cave in half, straight down the middle. Sit start the start of the crack at the very back of the cave and figure out the insanity. Very possible | V12 | ||||||
| 12 |
★★★ I Oink, Therefore I Ham
Best line in the cave. Sit start middle back of cave on big undercling flake. Big move followed by tension induced climbing to a contrived lip escape. Gain the lip and move left and then straight up the middle of the face out. | V6 | 8m | |||||
| 13 |
★★★ Loose Moose
Same sit start as I.O.T.I.H , lurching out of the cave on the right side. At the contrived lip encounter, traverse hard left along the whole lip of the cave on slopes and jugs to finish up the far left side mantling out. Watch the terrifying fall on the cut down tree stump. | V7 | ||||||
| 14 |
★★ Spruce Moose
Same as Oink, at the lip encounter, move lookers right up the flake and out. Grade needs confirming- could be a 7. | V6 | ||||||
| 15 |
★★ Like A Pig In Mud
To the right of the cave the big bulge on the silver wall. Crouch start in horizontal break and pull hard on crimps upwards to a easier finish FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Sep 2020 | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 16 |
★★ Pig’s Dinner
FA: Scott Walsh | V1 | ||||||
| 17 |
★ Pig’s Breakfast
FA: Angus Davidson | V1 | ||||||
| 18 |
Get Ya Hands Dirty
Right of Pigs Dinner. Start left of the bush in the middle of the rock. Use the crack where the bush is to pull up to a nice jug 3/4 way up the slab. Top out for send FA: James Gray | V0 | ||||||
| 19 |
Following Leonardo
Right side of the bush from Get Ya Hands Dirty. Straight up the slab behind the tree in the photo. Nice pinchy holds told to the top. Top out for send. Leonardo was the name we gave to the goana on the tree in the topo photo. FA: James Gray | V0 | ||||||
| 20 |
★ Yak Attack
Straight rail ladder, lunge for the top. Has been done before, let someone know if it was you! | V0 | 1m | |||||
| 21 |
★★ Greene Lane
Sit start low right end of the wall, foot on the stub underneath start hold. Trend up and left using any holds including lip. Reach the zenith just before the mid crack feature of the wall and top out here. FA: Nick Foulds & James Greene, 16 Jul 2023 | V2 | 2m | |||||
| 22 |
Warmup Mantle
Sit start on lowest rail, head straight up for a not so easy mantle. Lower rock stub is out. | V1 | 1m | |||||
| 23 |
Sit back and enjoy the ride
Up the hill, 10m right of Following Leonardo. SS on the slab. Nice leaning line up to the top of the rock. top out for send | V0- | ||||||
| 24 |
★ No he can't he's a pig
Start as for Spider Pig, but stay low and continue right along the lip. Top out round the bend. FA: Nick Foulds, 16 Jul 2023 | V1 | 1m | |||||
| 25 |
★ Spider Pig
Up 20ms above LPC sits this little roof Bloc. Sit start in the cobble rock left and blast out of the roof on jugs to a mantle right. FA: Angus Davidson, scott walsh & Jimmy Blackhall, 2020 | V1 | 2m | |||||
| 26 |
★ Amoosing
Left version of Spider Pig FA: Scott Walsh | V1 | 2m | |||||
| 27 |
Amoozing Warm Up
Amoozing without the overhang start. Climb up the slab. Put your mat on the rock behind you | V0 | ||||||
| 28 |
★★ Passively Agressive
start right heel on the sloppers, hands on to crips. travers left along the front of the boulder on sloppy crips, till you get to the corner, keep traversing till you get one hand on the amazing pinch on the end of the boulder then mantle up. trying not to dab on the rock under the lip FA: Luke Blackburn, 18 Aug 2023 | V3 | 2m | |||||
| 30 |
★ Free Cashews
Sit start on sloppers and good right heel traversing along the boulder till you reach the half way point, nice crip ladder to finish off the climb and mantle out. FA: Shay melville, 18 Aug 2023 | V2 | ||||||
| 31 |
★★★ Captain Philips
Sit start as for free Cashews, traversing along the whole way of the boulder till you reach the end and cant continue. nice mantle finish. FA: Samuel Melville, 18 Aug 2023 | V3 | ||||||
   /46/98/4698975e14f28b07ba935131fd478aa40923d5a2) /c4/38/c438441ac239a38d0f70736ac3018f644b76cb17)  /d2/16/d216a8aabe0088fe13596fde6c77f57d60ee2780)  /f9/c6/f9c6637c3f61566291794edf0457faa599b4bbdc)    |
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1.5.1. Passively Agressive 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
description
Fun little travers boulder, on sloppers
approach
walk towards the Logan pine caves then head straight over the top and you will find a nice little boulder just right of the Spider Pig boulder
history
To our Knowledge after scrubbing this boulder clean, the first ascent was Luke Blackburn but more then happy to let anyone take the first ascent if they think its been climbed before!
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Obviously aggressive
Sit start back to wall. RH arete and Lh on crimp rail, pull up into bat hang and mantle. Lower boulder is out! FA: arn, 3 Sep 2023 | V1 | ||||||
1.6. Treachery 27 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.812734, 153.136135
description
Highballs and not so highballs
approach
27°48'47.3"S 153°08'11.0"E
1.6.1. Treachery wall 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.812713, 153.136151
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Thievery
Stand start left hand side pull right hand slopey edge, climbs straight up FA: Scott Walsh, 19 Mar 2022 | V3 | 6m | |||||
| 2 |
★★★ Bloods N Crimps / BNC
Stand start on the crimpy flake and blast straight up making your way to the crimp rail about halfway up. Staying about 1.5m left to the hueco gain a near vertical crimp rail that flattens out on your way to the top. FA: Jayden Maguire, 2 Apr 2023 | V6 | 6m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Criminals Ladder
Left hand sidepull flake right hand sloper, climbs up and slightly veers left out of hueco FA: Scott Walsh, 19 Mar 2022 | V1 | 6m | |||||
| 4 |
★★★ The Vault
FA: Angus Davidson, 10 Jul 2022 FA: 10 Jul 2022 | V6 | 7m | |||||
| 5 |
Petty Crime
Stand start on obvious holds climb up and right to join onto 'out on bail' FA: Angus Davidson, 19 Mar 2022 | V2 | 7m | |||||
| 6 |
★★★ Out on Bail
Sit start on obvious jugs in the scoop and climb straight up FA: Angus Davidson, 19 Mar 2022 | V3 | 7m | |||||
| 7 |
King pin
Same start as 'out on bail' head up and traverse through the centre of 'the vault' to link up and finish at 'criminals ladder' FA: Matt Hillman, 26 Mar 2022 | V5 | 8m | |||||
/2f/04/2f04a823138826eceddd701f149a58aa0a0afe28)  |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 8 |
★ Jail Bird
Start on lower left arete. Move right and up to crimp rail, gain some high feet and go out for the sloper or the crimps above (if you have the reach). Move to the crimp rail up and left of hueco and mantle top FA: Kallin Willis, 13 Aug 2023 | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 9 |
★★★ Rule Breaker
Start on low right, sharp jug and left on crimp pocket with a high right heel/ heel-toe cam. Use the right jug or go straight up for the sloper, than into horizontal crack. Head up using the right vertical crimp rail and crimps on left, mantle top FA: Kallin Willis, 13 Aug 2023 | V2 | 5m | |||||
| 10 |
★★ But crack
Located about 10m from insecurity boulder, start holding a small crimp and jug, reach up and use a small but surprisingly strong nub/pinch, work way up to top using jug and crack (first time uploading climb, any advice appreciated) FA: Asher Joseph Set: Lachlan Allen, Asher Joseph & Will Jansen | V1 | 4m | |||||
1.6.2. Immorality Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.812750, 153.135972
description
27°48'45.9"S 153°08'09.5"E
   |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Immoral Activity
Crouch start LH side pull slopey pocket RH on obvious jug, decent moves on jugs veering right then back left to mantle avoiding vegetation. Spoiler alert. Beta video link https://youtu.be/GGp3aZ91lic FA: Kaleb Kennedy, 11 Jul 2022 | V2 | 4m | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Immoral Behaviour
Crouch start right hand good pinch left hand higher crimp using good feet underneath face. Moving slightly left to establish for powerful moves directly up through odd crimps, slopey break, dish crimps and devil horn jugs to the very pinnacle of the boulder resting above, ascending with highly immoral behaviour. Spoiler alert Beta video of first ascent for those that want the assistance. Good way to see starting position. https://youtu.be/I0RGlU686WA FA: Kaleb Kennedy, 17 Jul 2022 | V3/4 | 5m | |||||
1.6.3. colonel’s Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.812744, 153.135851
description
Chossy highball with a lot of potential some holds can be quite sharp. Not entirely sure on rock type but feels like tooheys/springwood
approach
Roughly 20-30 metres below immortality Boulder
/7d/7b/7d7bc67124615f5fbaa8f820a56268aa1c6b791b) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Wicked Wings
Stand start and obvious right hand jug into chicken winging off-width Boulder problem in between the two boulders FA: MrOracleLens, 2 Apr 2023 | V0 | 6m | |||||
1.6.4. Insecurity boulder 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.812550, 153.136023
description
The highball arete boulder above immorality
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
My Rock
Straight up through cuboid feature. FA: jayden desmond | V5 | 6m | |||||
| 2 |
★★ clingy
sit start on rock with right hand on ledge under roof, left hand on crimp on face, climb straight up to hueco to top out FA: Angus Davidson, 13 Mar 2022 | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 3 |
★★★ Embrace the insecurity
Start on obvious flake feet on slab, move hands to slopers and head straight up on the left hand side of the green streak FA: Angus Davidson, 13 Mar 2022 | V4 | 5m | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Embrace the Security
Same start as 'Embrace the Insecurity' move through the roof on jugs and head straight up the right side of the arete FA: Angus Davidson, 13 Mar 2022 | V1 | 6m | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Sturdy
Stand start on obvious jug horn and climb directly up and mantle over the overhanging rock FA: Angus Davidson, 17 Jul 2022 | V1 | 5m | |||||
1.6.5. Ezy Axis 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.812549, 153.135946
description
Along the path to treachery you find a collection of routes made for hardened fingers and those that enjoy the uncomfortable.
approach
From the path entrance to treachery, walk about 150m until the path starts to dip and the wall will be on your left.
     |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ House of Pain Arete / HoP
Stand Start left hand low in pebbly dish face side of arete right hand high in pockety edge right side of arete. Boulder to the right is out. Climb straight up. FA: Kaleb Kennedy, 5 Oct 2022 | V2 | 4m | |||||
| 2 |
Bear Hug
Bear hug start on bottom bulge good crimps. Up over bulge, veer right first then straight up. FA: Kaleb Kennedy, 5 Oct 2022 | V2 | 4m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Some Have It
Standing at the base of the slab left hand good edge hop up right hand good edge to start. Ascend slab on good holds to roof. Find courage as you establish a high right heel-hook then mantle over lip. Very exposed top out. FA: Kaleb Kennedy, 5 Oct 2022 | V3 | 6m | |||||
| 4 |
★ Some Don't
Same start as 'Some Have It' but instead of mantling over the roof traverse right out on good holds to top out FA: Kaleb Kennedy, 5 Oct 2022 | V1 | 6m | |||||
| 5 |
★★★ Dog Water
Start standing in back of cave, through undercling, out to big jug, and up. FA: Jackson | V4 | 5m | |||||
1.6.6. tyrannosaurus Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
description
A few good warm up climbs, boulders that are very fun, helps learn to mantle
approach
27°48'47.3"S 153°08'11.0"E when you get to treachery wall walk directly down the hill a few meters and there you will find the Tyrannosaurus boulder
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Flakosaurus
Start hands matched on the rail, feed find a good heal hook near hands, bust out left to good edge and travers left along lip, keeping feet above the seem of the rock till you get to the white hold and bust up with a tricky mantle straight up to finish FA: Jeremy Hughes, 14 Jul 2023 | V3 | ||||||
| 2 |
★★★ Chossosaurus
start in the centre of the wall on the lowest part on the black hand holds feed off the ground super bunched, hold body tension and reach out hand to gain the edge of the lip, mantle straight up FA: Samuel Melville, 14 Jul 2023 | V2 | ||||||
| 3 |
★★ Directosaurus
start on the good edge, same start as Flakosaurus V3, pump straight up and mantle out most direct way FA: John Godwin, 14 Jul 2023 | V1 | ||||||
| 4 |
★★★ Traversosaurus
Start hands matched on the rail, as for Flakosaurus V3 feed find a good heal hook near hands, bust out left to good edge and travers left along lip, keeping feet above the seem of the rock till you get to the white hold to finish no mantle required FA: Jeremy Hughes, 14 Jul 2023 | V1 | ||||||
1.7. The Ridge of Lies 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.810648, 153.136532
description
Ridge line with a ton of huge boulders but almost all bad landings or questionable rock. However, there are some diamonds in the rough.
approach
Park as for the Caves in yarrabilba on Dryander street and follow the fire trail (past the caves) until you see some huge blocks forming on your right follow the ridge line to find the established.
1.7.1. Sharknado Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.810569, 153.136957
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Sharknado
Sit start with hands on the lowest holds either side of arete and feet pressed on block underneath. Stay on arete line for glory. Stand start goes at about V2 FA: Corey Batten & Bo Palmer, 25 Jun 2023 | V6/7 | ||||||
1.7.2. Hammer Head Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.810589, 153.137000
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Broken holdA crucial hold has broken off (the left hand on the face before crossing to the outside lip) more than likely will effect the grade and the boulder will need to be resent. | ||||||||
| 2 |
★★★ Hammer Head
Start Matched on the crimpy flat hold on the bottom left of the boulder near the detached rock (watch your head) stay along the arete and finish on the top jug rail before mantleing over. There may be another line possible that mantles earlier. but for Hammer Head climb all the out right. Beta for clarity: https://youtu.be/BNXb8dtM5IQ FA: Corey Batten & Bo Palmer, 25 Jun 2023 | V8/9 | ||||||
1.7.3. Seventh Wave Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.810573, 153.137047
approach
Approximately 20 metres directly up the hill from hammer head boulder
/8a/65/8a651e23a821d8b951cdd5be4fbe539eec560709) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Seventh Wave
Start matched in obvious crack on left side of the boulder, bust straight up to top out on jugs Note - There is a low flake to the right that could be used as a start, but it doesn’t add to the difficulty or aesthetic of the line, and could easily rip off with too much use FA: Luke Seymour, 27 Aug 2023 | V6/7 | 2m | |||||
1.8. Goliath sector 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.814585, 153.141134
description
High balls and slab, fun for the whole family. Morning shade until about 11am
approach
-27.814531, 153.141161 Turn right off the main track where the yellowish sandy dirt turns to gravel following the natural rock path in to the scrub. For easiest access to sector follow directions for Pussy Boulder (ridge area) and climb over the ridge at Pussy Boulder then rejoin the main walking track.
1.8.1. David 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.814705, 153.141133
description
Big black slab wall with a solid crack climb.
approach
Directly to the right of Goliath's Arete.
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Gimme Crack
Climb the long crack furtherst to the left of the wall. Hope you can hand jam! The Goliath boulder is out -- only pure crack climbing here. | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Slung
Start any way you can at the two broken flakes stacked on one another. Get to a nice R crimp then pocket jug, and mantle up. Start move would make the climb a classic if it wasn't so chossy... the upper R flake flexes so be careful not to yank it off. FA: Alexander Jones, 11 Oct 2020 | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 3 |
★★★ kenosis
Start at arete, on obvious big jug side pull. up arete and top out. FA: jayden desmond | V5 | 4m | |||||
1.8.2. Goliath 11 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.814541, 153.141135
description
Great high ball Boulder that also has some fun slab climbs. bring lots of mats! or not, whatever.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Antsie Pantsie
Left line. | V1 | 5m | |||||
| 2 | ★★ Walk Before You Run | V1 | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 3 | ★★ Just Keep Walking | V1 | ||||||
| 4 | ★★ Run Forest, Run | V1 | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ Yearnin’ For A Squirmin’
Link up the wall with some good ol Squirmin’. Sit start A.P and move right across on an assortment of crimps to finish up R.F.R, with the very nice slab finish. Worth doing FA: Jimmy Blackhall | V2 | 5m | |||||
| 6 |
★ Limp Dickens
Sit Start on huge gaping underclings throw up for crimps, tricky slab-tastic top out FFA: Harry Bowman, 11 Nov 2018 | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 7 |
★ Count Crackular
Sit-start straight up the crack to finish on the ledge. | V0 | 3m | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Dead Kooks
Stand start balancing on big footer left side. A hard series of crimpy and technical slabbing up the bomber orange wall finishing on the juggy mid way break. Don’t use your feet properly and say goodbye. It is to go with out saying all holds on the V4 right and the easy crack left are out. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Sep 2020 | V7 | 3m | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Slim pickens
Classic Slabbin! Start right hand on the right ledge just as the orange rock turns to rooflet. Head up leftwards with under-clings and finish on jugs. FFA: Harry Bowman, 11 Nov 2018 | V4 | ||||||
| 10 |
★★ Magic v9 - 10 PROJECT
super hard route made harder by the height, start on crimps just over lip of rooflet, hard move moving onto headwall, followed by some serious crimping. | V10 | 7m | |||||
| 11 |
★★★ The power of friendship
Start on the orange block, bring your friends for support but mostly for their mats. FFA: Corey Batten, 11 Nov 2018 | V5 | 7m | |||||
1.9. El Paradiso 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.811652, 153.144777
approach
Off the main trail instead of turning right to all the established popular climbs turn left. It’s a long ridge line the long way left.
1.9.1. Paradiso Boulder 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
summary
The first two tiered high ball top of the approach.
 /25/5f/255fc64ff067ff178742cf6757a94dd78d2f1b98) /01/1e/011e30d4dbe9c26f6399d62833c189d89dd8ad42) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Overlooking Paradiso
As good as it gets for the grade. Bomber sandstone up the right trending flake. Start sit started. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 17 May 2020 | V1 | ||||||
| 2 |
★★ Dead Disco
Middle line starts in a sit start. Straight up over the steep roof to great grips and a cool punchy move. FA: 17 May 2020 | V2 | 4m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Garden Of Eden
Start to the right of the large Black Boy Tree growing next to the wall (be careful of it and also a tiny one at the landing). Start in a stand start on obvious jugs and move up. FA: Jesse Lincoln, 17 May 2020 | V0 | ||||||
| 4 |
★★★ Die Another Day
Classic photo shoot line found on the tier above OP and GOE. This line is not recommended without a very clear head and composure. Start stand start bridging between the 70 degree wall and the other boulder right. A few long moves to a hero heel hook on the lip. This is a no fall zone boulder as a fall would be death. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 17 May 2020 | V2 | ||||||
| 5 |
Die Another Day Low
Hard. Follow the perfect crack feature out of the 70degree roof. Compress this with another crack on the right. The boulder on the low right is out. You must be comfortable at VHARD boulders because a fall at half way and over would be catastrophically bad news- easy top though. Set: Jimmy Blackhall, 17 May 2020 | |||||||
1.9.2. Start Chalking Boulder 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
summary
300ms left of El Paradiso boulder along the same out crops.
/c7/40/c7405f2b82ea35402e20c3db9a6e209a414ce0c6) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Quit Talking And Start Chalking
The beauty streaked face to the left of the huge paper bark tree. Squat start on sandy jugs and straight up the technical face. A must do! FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 17 May 2020 | V1 | 4m | |||||
1.9.3. Russel Coight Boulder 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
summary
The last outcrop far lookers left. Routes begin literally next to the barbed wire fence (look out for it)
approach
10mins from El Paradiso boulder
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Crack Doctor
Worth doing. Start sit started RH on side pull flake and left on either a crimp or pinch. Pull on (crux) ascend the black face. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 17 May 2020 | V3 | 3m | |||||
| 2 |
★★ All Aussie Adventures
Start sit started 3ms right of the barbed wire fence on good crimps. Start up to the small horizontal and fire to the lip. Quality FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 17 May 2020 | V3 | 3m | |||||
| 3 |
★ Coight Dance
A nice warm up. Site started LH on high yellow/white crimp and RH on jug. Move up and left. Enjoy FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 17 May 2020 | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 4 |
★ Preexisting Medical Conditions
Stand start on good holds and move up. FA: Jesse Lincoln, 17 Jul 2020 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 5 |
★ Medicine Man
Left to right traverse starting on AAA and finishing on CD FA: Jimmy Blackhall, May 2020 | V2 | ||||||
1.10. Overlook 10 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.807554, 153.139818
description
Ridgeline with scattered boulder's overlooking the housing estate. Ridge tends south-west, roughly paralleling Boundary Break. Very sandy but like most of Plunkett just have to search for the good stuff. Happy to change or edit if historical names/routes are known, not putting up any FA cause probably not first to do it
approach
From Wickam Peak lookout, take the west most branch of the Calytrix Circuit (aka Boundary Break). Area is off to the right after maybe 5-10 mins of walking, very spread out along ridgeline. Will try to drop actual geo-tags when out there next.
/68/b8/68b825bcf5c2e691ca8822150ce979024a3829c2) /d3/60/d360b1d5b70660e4f4169192fb2ad353ba72fc0c) /30/43/3043d4a914a1af7ff83e07722ca879f8e2b40a38) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5 |
★★ Where the lost socks go
hands start as for the trench feet however start up in the black part of the dish just lower then the hands. once you do the big move to the lip travers on slopers and crimps, till you get all the way right and mantle out right on slopers and good right hand hold! don't use the rock right of the crack keep to the trench boulder! FA: Clea Hall, 1 Sep 2023 | V6 | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ The Trench
Stand start on the ledge both hands on undercling, big reach or big span jump to the lip of the boulder, gain very good jugs and top out straight up! Warning! Do not grab the x ticked hold just above the lip, it sounds hollow and will definitely break, be mindful when sending FA: Samuel Melville, 1 Sep 2023 | V5 | ||||||
| 8 |
★★★ Head down snakes up
Start on the lowest good hold, feet out right, climb up and left to a dead point then to top out FA: Samuel Melville, 1 Sep 2023 | V4 | ||||||
1.10.1. Dreadnought 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.806873, 153.140265
description
Large boulder with potential for problems under the lip
approach
Somewhere near the top end of the overlook
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Dreadnought
Probably the only possible line on the boulder. start in the big undercling and jump out right to arete, cruxy mantle FA: Corey Batten, 28 May 2023 | V6/7 | ||||||
| 2 |
★★★ Dreadnaught direct project
Start as for dreadnaught 2 hands in the undercling with feet on the rock below and then dyno straight out to the big jug then mantle from it and finish as for dreadnaught. Seems like you’d have to hit it with both hands at once to hold it. BRING MATS AND SPOTTERS *is a contrived route | V10 | ||||||
1.10.2. Hotspoon 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
description
One route wonder
approach
About 20m downhill from the dreadnought boulder
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Hot Spoon
Sit start, both hands on left side of crack, up to top. Both boulders are in for feet | V2 | ||||||
1.10.3. Suburban Bliss 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
description
Warmup boulder
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ 50c Cone
Stand start right hand big flake, L on jug, up to top | V0 | ||||||
| 2 |
There's a stone in my shoe
Right of 50c, up on good holds | V0 | ||||||
| 3 |
Stepford Wives
Right of "Stone in Shoe, good holds to top | V0 | ||||||
1.10.4. Grass Tree Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
approach
Little bit further south from Suburban Bliss
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Between Two Ferns
Stand start, up on crimps and slopers to top | V2 | ||||||
1.10.5. Marianas Trench 0 routes in Area
summary
Super fun boulder for people training for the dreadnought boulder!
description
Mega undercling leads to awesome big move and amazing mantle
approach
Just walk up the track towards the lookout and just down left there an awesome hidden gem
1.11. Two Smoking Boulders 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
summary
Same as the rest follow the main track up - but follow the dry creek right up hill. Once you start seeing a few boulders it’s the area with good landings.
/d7/2d/d72dd93cbea588d21b7fc524b0ceeddabad8acc0) /4b/2e/4b2ede39bae2c6b5b856f388043be42423c5fdd6) /30/a0/30a064db815ff5d0ce5900e68bd7bdd670b5992f) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Locked And Loaded
Stand start on very cool LH pocket and RH slopper. Unlock the puzzle up the seam. Good quality and tall. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Byron Nicholls & zane | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 2 |
Create Explore
Starts start and move straight up the slab. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, May 2020 | V0 | 3m | |||||
| 3 |
★ Expand Conquer
Stand start on two sloppered jugs and ascend. FA: Jimmy Blackhall | V0 | 3m | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Solutions for show, Miura’s for pro’s
The boulder to the right of CE and EC. Sit start with LH undercling and RH crimp high. Worth doing FA: Jimmy Blackhall, May 2020 | V1 | 3m | |||||
1.12. Off peak boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.806550, 153.141875
approach
From the lookout area, down and around the corner towards the start of the Calytrix circuit
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Skidmark
Sit start. R sidpull, left on large bright coloured hold. | V1 | ||||||
1.13. Southern Land 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.820963, 153.148678
summary
South East Plunkett on the opposite side of the park of developed boulders.
description
largely undeveloped sector with tons of scattered boulders, there's probably 30 plus unestablished boulders between V1-V4.
Right now the car park is street parking next to residential houses, if you'd feel more comfortable parking away from residents there is a public car park on flinders road at the park. This part of the yarrabilba estate is being highly developed still and the car park may change over time.
approach
Approach may be slightly confusing first try but easy once you know, it’s about 15 minutes flat walk, 5 minutes uphill.
Park on Hyde Drive (-27.822115, 153.137961) Walk up the waterway or walk up behind the electrical box. stay left of the fence above the waterway. follow the fence line as it joins a wide path on your left, joining the path, follow it downhill and turn right at -27.822019, 153.140477 following this path eventually leads you to the gate of the national park, keep straight along the path as it leads uphill past the electrical towers. you'll find yourself in the thick of the boulders following the path from here.
1.13.1. Land Of Shadow Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.820428, 153.148903
description
Turn right off the path just before the little overhanging boulder sitting right on the track. lovely all day shade in winter, possibly summer too but that needs confirming.
approach
As for southern land area.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Land Of Shadow
start sitting down with your right hand in pocket and left on the little crimp on the outside left of the pocket. blast up leftwards, slopey madness, fantastic. FA: Corey Batten, 13 Jul 2023 | V10 | ||||||
| 2 |
★ Wind Rider
Start left hand on the same hold as Land Of Shadow and Right hand on the Lower of the two right hand side pulls. One FU move to glory. FA: Corey Batten, 13 Jul 2023 | V8/9 | ||||||
1.13.2. Summer is coming 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.820477, 153.148386
description
Cool Boulder just near land of shadow boulder
approach
Go as for land of shadow boulder, is visible from land of shadow. Use the google direction coords
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Bloody Sunday
start low on the far right side pull climb across to the left then up before going slightly to the right and topping out at the highest point. FA: Liam Daniel, 27 Aug 2023 | V4 | ||||||
1.13.3. Hill Top 14 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.819837, 153.150005
description
Lots of shorter boulders in the V1 - V4 range. largely undeveloped.
approach
just keep walking up hill in the southern land sector, Boulders are right next to the track, cant miss them.
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Tiny T's
start left hand on good crimp and right hand on small edge. Shoot up to crimp and top out FA: Zac Marsden | V1 | ||||||
| 2 |
★ Cow Corner
Start on the Left arete FA: WallWalkerWilson | V1 | ||||||
| 3 |
★★ Trust The Thrust
Stand start on crimp and trust the smeary feet to victory FA: Zac Marsden, 17 Sep 2023 | V1 | ||||||
| 4 |
★★ Choose Your Own Adventure
Starts standing with right hand on side pull and left hand palming the wall, trend up and right over crimps to top out FA: Zac Marsden, 17 Sep 2023 | V1 | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ Athlete's Foot
Start on crimps with left foot jammed in the crack. Deadpoint to the lip and mantle directly out. FA: WallWalkerWilson | V2 | ||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 6 |
★ The Art Of Standing
Starts left hand palming/pressing and right hand in the undercling FA: Corey Batten, 17 Sep 2023 | V1 | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ Kellogg's All Span
Kinda whack, maybe reach dependant, maybe not. Feels impossible until it doesn't. Sit start with right hand on the huge flake and left hand on the flatish rail left of the flake FA: Corey Batten, 17 Sep 2023 | V4 | ||||||
| 8 |
★★ Bump And Dump
Stand stand start hugging the arete, smeary awkward feet to start before slapping your way to glory FA: Zac Marsden, 17 Sep 2023 | V2 | ||||||
| 9 |
★★ No Hands No Fall
No hand climb up the right side of the boulder FA: natenstuff | V0 | ||||||
| 10 |
★ Tread Leftovers
start in scoop on the right side of the boulder and move up and left. FA: TiniestFury | V1 | ||||||
 /80/c1/80c1aff6ae8958e33631c6840b73f6cc593d864a)  |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 11 |
★★ NATO's Tendons
Start on crimps in break. Work your way up the face of the slab. FA: TiniestFury | V1 | ||||||
| 12 |
★ Parietal Postosuchus
Start on right arete FA: WallWalkerWilson | V1 | ||||||
| 13 |
★★ Brownies in the Blueys
right hand on crimp and left hand using the scoop. Right foot can start on the right bulge. Bust directly up over the lip. FA: Zac Marsden, 25 Sep 2023 | V4 | ||||||
| 14 |
★★ Conker's Bad Fur Day
Sit start in the Layback and work your way up to the mantle FA: WallWalkerWilson | V3 | ||||||
1.14. Weathertop Ridge 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.821154, 153.155216
summary
This the first ridge line that the new wave of developers discovered, the first line done was Krabby Patty but was never documented due to private property concerns and the parks other side projects.
description
Great ridge line with plenty of gems, and projects. Theres a few more boulders to be published on this ridge. The Area Probably best in winter as the ridge cops a fair bit of sun.
access issues
!!!PLEASE READ the access issues on the main page.
The left side of this Ridge is extremely close to private property. Yes, there is a boulder 10-20 meters into the private property that every one in SEQ would love to climb but access to it has been denied. please respect the land owners.
approach
Approach may be slightly confusing first try but easy once you know. Its about 15 minutes easy flat ground and a bit of a trek uphill for another 10-15 minutes.
Park on Hyde Drive (-27.822115, 153.137961) Walk up the waterway or walk up behind the electrical box. stay left of the fence above the waterway. follow the fence line as it joins a wide path on your left, joining the path, follow it downhill and turn right at -27.822019, 153.140477 following this path eventually leads you to the gate of the national park, keep straight along the path as it leads uphill past the electrical towers. follow this path all the way up the hill trending rightwards you'll eventually hit the Weathertop ridge at the top of the path. once on the ridge stay on the upper ridge line for access to the bikini bottom boulders. or for easier but much more confusing quick access to the ridge line turn left off the path at -27.820860, 153.152204 this turn is directly into a small screen of thickets but once through the thickets follow your nose/map northwards sticking to the naturally easiest way through the thickets.
1.14.1. Bikini Bottom Boulders 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.819667, 153.153634
summary
These are the last boulders along the ridge line before the private property line, so be sure to look down for the boundary.
description
Cool little cluster of boulders with something for every one
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Gary
Start on the huge obvious flake on the left side of the boulder FA: Zac Marsden, 16 Jul 2023 | V2 | ||||||
| 2 |
★★ Krabby Patty
Start on the fairly solid flake punching up through crimps. You may lose some, none, or all your feet. the lower part of the rock is pretty soft and sandy. FA: Zac Marsden, 20 Aug 2023 | V4 | ||||||
| 3 |
★ Jellyfishing
rubbish rock down low. Be gentle with the start hold, if it breaks the climb will be totally different. hard to grade this one feels easy sometimes, absolutely impossible other times. Note: the FA was done doing the final dead point with feet up on starting hand holds (not from the bottom band of rock on the ground) it may or may not be possible from the low feet and may or may not change the grade. FA: Corey Batten, 20 Aug 2023 | V9/10 | ||||||
| 4 |
★ F.U.N
Start on the bulge with right hand finger lock thing, The big attached lower rock(s) are in. F is for friends who do stuff together U is for you and me N is for anywhere and anytime at all Down here in the deep blue sea FA: Corey Batten, 17 Sep 2023 | V8/9 | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ Mermaid Man
Sit start left hand on the shallow pocket/crimp and right hand low on the big rail. don't mantle to early for your own safety and style points. mantle on the horn in the corner. the rock down low is crap so just be careful with your feet. FA: Corey Batten, 20 Aug 2023 | V3 | ||||||
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Barnacle Boy
So low to the ground that you can't use a mat to begin. start hands crossed (left in the pocket and right on the sloper) FA: Corey Batten, 16 Jul 2023 | V6 | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ ChumBucket
Start two hands in the obvious chum bucket hold, blast out left and up through the plankton FA: Corey Batten, 20 Aug 2023 | V5 | ||||||
| 8 |
★ Sandy Cheeks
Far Right boulder FA: Zac Marsden, 13 Jul 2023 | V1 | ||||||
1.14.2. Right Side 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.822296, 153.156399
summary
Cluster of boulders on the right side of this ridge.
description
probably the longest walk in boulders but worth the walk in the cooler month(s)
approach
Easiest access would be to keep following the path all the way up the hill as for Weathertop Ridge access
   |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ The Garden Path
Starting on the leftish side of the flake, fun for everyone. FA: Corey Batten, 23 Aug 2023 | V3 | ||||||
| 2 |
★★★ Action Hero
The straight up the guts steepest line on the boulder, start on the slab and head straight up through the obvious crimp rails. FA: Corey Batten, 23 Aug 2023 | V7 | ||||||
| 3 |
★ Death By Lichen
starting on your select choice of crimps and feet on the right corner of the slabby thingo aim true for the "jug" hold FA: Corey Batten, 23 Aug 2023 | V3/4 | ||||||
|
These next boulders are 10m along the ridge from Action Hero boulder. | ||||||||
| 5 |
★★★ Weakest Obliquest
And on the sixth day Bo created this line. Start in a casual laying down position with hands on the left and right crimp rails. do not start matched on the left crimp as it takes a grade or two off. bring plenty of skin FA: Corey Batten & Bo Palmer, 27 Aug 2023 | V10/11 | ||||||
| 6 |
★★★ The Mothership
Start on the leftish side of the boulder in the obvious break/rail and blast straight up to your home planet. FA: Zac Marsden, 27 Aug 2023 | V5 | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ Bubble Shield
starting on the right of The Mothership in the same break/rail jump or something idk FA: Zac Marsden & Corey Batten, 27 Aug 2023 | V4 | ||||||
