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Routes as trad in The Cathedral

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Showing all 23 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
27
Main Crag
27 Inchworm Groove

This one is for the hard nuts,it was once the hardest trad line in shire, and possibly NSW. Start: Below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or easily to top up anything nearby. Take small gear.

FA: Mike Law, 1986

Trad 8m
24
Main Crag
24 Pool Shark

Start up the V crack system (thin gear to start)to an enjoyable top with some very interesting holds and good gear.

FA: nathanual hebbard & Dave Pastafarian, 24 Jul 2021

Trad 12m
22
Main Crag
22 Tweedlebum

Start 10m R of Boffin in a Coffin. Up to roof and up. Wide.

FA: mikl, 2011

Trad 10m
21
Main Crag
21 Country Club Punters

The last crack on the wall, a few metres further from Tweedlebum, thin cracks up bulge to ledge and then mantle (crux). Keep the ledgefall potential in mind. (If you have to remove the plant from the top crack you're not strong enough.)

FFA: Anton Korsun

Set: Tom Bes

Trad 10m
21 Nutter in a Gutter

Funky groove and neat face climbing. Up crack 8 m R of Buffalo Bum to ledge, step R 1.5m and up wall to jugs then left to crack

FA: Gareth Downey, 2013

Trad 15m
21 Medieval Remedies

Another wall finish to the 2 cracks, one very funky move... Start up Vitez or GOOT to pod, right a move to Inchworm Groove anchor then climb the wall a metre R of wide crack (Vitez DF) past 3 RBs to single U lower off.

FA: Ben Williams, 2015

Mixed trad 25m, 4
21 Fat Crack

Streno thrash, great fun. Essential before a trip to Frog Buttress or Yosemite.The crux section had previously been done as part of The Shute. Medium wires, finger to hand cams and a fist cam above the thread and one for the top chimney.

FA: mikl law, 2013

Trad 22m
20
Main Crag
20 Wench in a Trench

Wide crack 8m right of Buffalo Bum

Past 2 RBs, then nice through bulge at top to loweroffs. Nuts and cams for top section; you can also get some gear in the break before the 2nd bolt.

FA: Stu Dobbie & Enmoore Lin, 2011

Mixed trad 18m, 2
20 Tourniquet

Learn to offwidth and remove ugly excess skin! 8m further right around the arete is an offwidth.

Stick clip BR at 4m and up past another bolt to hand crack and gear to lower-off.

FA: Stu Dobbie, 2011

Mixed trad 18m, 2
20 Get Out of Town

Start on face 1m right of Retro Crack. Hard off the ground to RB and trad up to pea pod. Up a bit then take the left-hand flake past 2 rings to a lower-off.

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

Mixed trad 25m, 3
19
Main Crag
19 Vitez

Pleasant crack to pea-pod and continue straight up the wide crack above past 3 stainless carrots.

Trad 25m
19 Holy Fisticuffs Batman

Mostly easy bridging up a hand and fist crack (or add thin roof crack start). Take (age/10) each of yellow and blue camalots, 2 hex 10s are handy too. Crack corner between TDD and JC, either step off block or crank thin crack start. Easilyto roof and a move, then up to final juggy chimney.

FA: Mikl Law, 2015

Trad 18m
18
Main Crag
18 Buffalo Bum

The hand and fist crack 1m right of Tourniquet. Step in from right. Good stuff, eats cams. Lower-off on left as for Tourniquet

FA: Mike Law, 2011

Trad 18m
18 Black Knight of 'Ni'

Start as for Vitez. Follow this up to pea pod, at the left hand flake bust out right above Inchworm Groove anchors and take the two ringbolts above (extend last piece and the runners along traverse). Finish up the headwall dihedral on small gear to take the anchors above and right at the top of the cliff (Top of Nats Mega Proj). Fun mix of crack, slab and face climbing.

FA: David Pasqualino, May 2021

Mixed trad 25m, 2
18 Vitez Right Finish

Start in the corner crack 1 m Right of Get out of Town. Follow this up and over a bulge to the pea pod. Move right and clip the chain on IG then right again (past Medieval Remedies) to face climb past RBs to top off cliff and double RB lower off. According to the 1991 Rock Magzine guidebook to Sydney - this was actually the original finish to Get Out of Town!

FA: P. Farkas, 1989

Trad 25m
18 Stainless Mystery

Start up GOOT or 'Vitez' (trad) and traverse left in break at 10m then finish up Retro Crack (rings).

FA: Hill's Alien visitation crew from TJF, 2000

Trad 30m
18 Dobster's Diabolical Dihedral

An interesting Vee-crack followed by a flared bottomless offwidth. Take a #4 and #5 cam for the top. Double U bolts to lower off or belay on top of the pinnacle.

FA: Stu Dobbie & Gavin Critchley, 2011

Trad 15m
17
Main Crag
17 Bye Forever

Just like goodbyes, not all that pleasant. Shallow flaring double crack system into a chimney top. FA used a #7 as first piece, a #6 would go one move higher. Tree anchor.

FA: Jake Delaney & Tom Bes, 10 Jul 2023

Trad 19m
17 Ozone Action

Sydney classic at the grade! A great example of a mixed route, requiring quite a bit of trad. Start on right side of main wall at the right leading groove/flake feature with very high first bolt (stick-clip it). Up the groove (2 RBs), sling the top of the feature and take a well earned rest. Finish up a exposed flake crack on left side of arete (cams and wires) then one final RB to lower-offs.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989

Mixed trad 20m, 3
16
Main Crag
16 Chimney sweep punters

Up the thin crack feature on small gear, avoid bridging across to face on left. Once ledge is gained move left into squeeze chimney with more small gear in the back. Move up and right back into crack on face and top out. Walk off or abseil off tree.

FA: Tom Bes, 8 Jul 2021

Trad 10m
16 Oh the Humidity

Nice thin crack. Start about 12m uphill from Wire Brush and Dettol. Up crack to 2 ring lower-off.

FA: Stu Dobster, 2012

Trad 6m
14
Main Crag
14 Shoot That Dog

The tricky looking Chimney

FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989

Trad 10m
13
Main Crag
13 Aero Arete

Start: Just right of arete, use pro as for OA.

FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1989

Trad 8m

Showing all 23 routes.

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