Showing all 23 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
27 | |||||
Main Crag | |||||
27 | ★★ Inchworm Groove
This one is for the hard nuts,it was once the hardest trad line in shire, and possibly NSW. Start: Below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or easily to top up anything nearby. Take small gear. FA: Mike Law, 1986 | 8m | |||
24 | |||||
Main Crag | |||||
24 | ★★★ Pool Shark
Start up the V crack system (thin gear to start)to an enjoyable top with some very interesting holds and good gear. FA: nathanual hebbard & Dave Pastafarian, 24 Jul 2021 | 12m | |||
22 | |||||
Main Crag | |||||
22 | ★ Tweedlebum
Start 10m R of Boffin in a Coffin. Up to roof and up. Wide. FA: mikl, 2011 | 10m | |||
21 | |||||
Main Crag | |||||
21 | Country Club Punters
The last crack on the wall, a few metres further from Tweedlebum, thin cracks up bulge to ledge and then mantle (crux). Keep the ledgefall potential in mind. (If you have to remove the plant from the top crack you're not strong enough.) FFA: Anton Korsun Set: Tom Bes | 10m | |||
21 | ★★ Nutter in a Gutter
Funky groove and neat face climbing. Up crack 8 m R of Buffalo Bum to ledge, step R 1.5m and up wall to jugs then left to crack FA: Gareth Downey, 2013 | 15m | |||
21 | ★★ Medieval Remedies
Another wall finish to the 2 cracks, one very funky move... Start up Vitez or GOOT to pod, right a move to Inchworm Groove anchor then climb the wall a metre R of wide crack (Vitez DF) past 3 RBs to single U lower off. FA: Ben Williams, 2015 | 25m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★ Fat Crack
Streno thrash, great fun. Essential before a trip to Frog Buttress or Yosemite.The crux section had previously been done as part of The Shute. Medium wires, finger to hand cams and a fist cam above the thread and one for the top chimney. FA: mikl law, 2013 | 22m | |||
20 | |||||
Main Crag | |||||
20 | ★★ Wench in a Trench
Wide crack 8m right of Buffalo Bum Past 2 RBs, then nice through bulge at top to loweroffs. Nuts and cams for top section; you can also get some gear in the break before the 2nd bolt. FA: Stu Dobbie & Enmoore Lin, 2011 | 18m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Tourniquet
Learn to offwidth and remove ugly excess skin! 8m further right around the arete is an offwidth. Stick clip BR at 4m and up past another bolt to hand crack and gear to lower-off. FA: Stu Dobbie, 2011 | 18m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Get Out of Town
Start on face 1m right of Retro Crack. Hard off the ground to RB and trad up to pea pod. Up a bit then take the left-hand flake past 2 rings to a lower-off. FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989 | 25m, 3 | |||
19 | |||||
Main Crag | |||||
19 | ★★ Vitez
Pleasant crack to pea-pod and continue straight up the wide crack above past 3 stainless carrots. | 25m | |||
19 | ★★ Holy Fisticuffs Batman
Mostly easy bridging up a hand and fist crack (or add thin roof crack start). Take (age/10) each of yellow and blue camalots, 2 hex 10s are handy too. Crack corner between TDD and JC, either step off block or crank thin crack start. Easilyto roof and a move, then up to final juggy chimney. FA: Mikl Law, 2015 | 18m | |||
18 | |||||
Main Crag | |||||
18 | ★★ Buffalo Bum
The hand and fist crack 1m right of Tourniquet. Step in from right. Good stuff, eats cams. Lower-off on left as for Tourniquet FA: Mike Law, 2011 | 18m | |||
18 | ★★ Black Knight of 'Ni'
Start as for Vitez. Follow this up to pea pod, at the left hand flake bust out right above Inchworm Groove anchors and take the two ringbolts above (extend last piece and the runners along traverse). Finish up the headwall dihedral on small gear to take the anchors above and right at the top of the cliff (Top of Nats Mega Proj). Fun mix of crack, slab and face climbing. FA: David Pasqualino, May 2021 | 25m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Vitez Right Finish
Start in the corner crack 1 m Right of Get out of Town. Follow this up and over a bulge to the pea pod. Move right and clip the chain on IG then right again (past Medieval Remedies) to face climb past RBs to top off cliff and double RB lower off. According to the 1991 Rock Magzine guidebook to Sydney - this was actually the original finish to Get Out of Town! FA: P. Farkas, 1989 | 25m | |||
18 | ★★ Stainless Mystery
Start up GOOT or 'Vitez' (trad) and traverse left in break at 10m then finish up Retro Crack (rings). FA: Hill's Alien visitation crew from TJF, 2000 | 30m | |||
18 | ★ Dobster's Diabolical Dihedral
An interesting Vee-crack followed by a flared bottomless offwidth. Take a #4 and #5 cam for the top. Double U bolts to lower off or belay on top of the pinnacle. FA: Stu Dobbie & Gavin Critchley, 2011 | 15m | |||
17 | |||||
Main Crag | |||||
17 | Bye Forever
Just like goodbyes, not all that pleasant. Shallow flaring double crack system into a chimney top. FA used a #7 as first piece, a #6 would go one move higher. Tree anchor. FA: Jake Delaney & Tom Bes, 10 Jul 2023 | 19m | |||
17 | ★★ Ozone Action
Sydney classic at the grade! A great example of a mixed route, requiring quite a bit of trad. Start on right side of main wall at the right leading groove/flake feature with very high first bolt (stick-clip it). Up the groove (2 RBs), sling the top of the feature and take a well earned rest. Finish up a exposed flake crack on left side of arete (cams and wires) then one final RB to lower-offs. FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 20m, 3 | |||
16 | |||||
Main Crag | |||||
16 | ★ Chimney sweep punters
Up the thin crack feature on small gear, avoid bridging across to face on left. Once ledge is gained move left into squeeze chimney with more small gear in the back. Move up and right back into crack on face and top out. Walk off or abseil off tree. FA: Tom Bes, 8 Jul 2021 | 10m | |||
16 | ★ Oh the Humidity
Nice thin crack. Start about 12m uphill from Wire Brush and Dettol. Up crack to 2 ring lower-off. FA: Stu Dobster, 2012 | 6m | |||
14 | |||||
Main Crag | |||||
14 | ★ Shoot That Dog
The tricky looking Chimney FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989 | 10m | |||
13 | |||||
Main Crag | |||||
13 | ★ Aero Arete
Start: Just right of arete, use pro as for OA. FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1989 | 8m |
Showing all 23 routes.