Routes as sport in Bangor West

Fun jug pulling up steep wall on far right end of crag. Four u-bolts. Very well protected but has no lower-off. Easy top out and set up an abseil on the rings 2m back

Marked TW. Classic featured wall with awesome giant thread in the middle. Up past giant thread (don't thread in case it breaks), then up to clip-and-go lower-off. For the full value tick mantle out onto the top and belay off u-bolts a few metres back. Rebolted 2015.

Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m left of "The Whorl". Very steep start off cairn into roof then up using handlebar hold then up the juggy arête. 3 ringbolts then right at top to shared anchor with The Whorl.

start 1m L of Dorothy May. Jump from boulder to jug just right of crack (Lean Too) and up. 3 rings and lower-off. Previoulsy bolted on coach screws, rebolted Nov 2016

The line of very shiny rings on right side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. tenuous top-out then set up an abseil off rings 2m back and left to clean

Hard undercut start then up on good edges and slopey pockets. Easier for those with gibbon arms.

Great sustained wall climbing up sloping dishes. Tricky rounded top out, or cheat and lower-off the top anchors.

Rebolted August 2015.

Bolted line 2m L of Shire Republic. Funkies, pinches, underclings.

Nose 3m L of A Pinch and a punch. Up and left at 2nd bolt to a tenuous finish.

Start 3m R of the thin crack (KS) at the base of the gully, 3m L of HN. Can stand on tree to clip first runner. Up desperate start, then hard move left through roof (right is right out) and up to slabby top out. Best to rap off the anchors as it will wear your rope a bit.

Streno, right arete of gully as you walk down. Sit start and hard top out to rings well back

Marked NFM. Up to RB then leftwards past two more Ubolts to lower-off. Harder first moves then easy top.

Start: 5m left of R, just under arete.

Marked KK. Middle line on this wall with a couple of funky pockets. Three Ubolts to shared lower-off with 'NFM'.

Start from the ground (don't skip first few moves by standing on the block).

Start right of the ring.

Start well left of bolt then right to lower off.

Start: Starts 3m left of KK.

Bouldery start with surprisingly tricky top out. Start on ground, not rock on the left. Unless you want to.

Climb is marked with a faded AB. Just right of the crack. Rebolted 2009. 3 ring bolts with lower off. A Sydney classic

Killer start up to first Ring Bolt. Can be done as a mixed route.

Start: 1m left of Pitted Arete

Rebolted 2009

Starts 1m left of Mars Apple.

Slightly tricky start then up blocky ledges and face. New bolts 2009. 2 carrots on top.

1m L of MPC. 2ubolts

2m left of SIC. 2 rings, shared lower-off with Sports Injury Clinic.

Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs

Start: On rounded arete

The original Go Go Gadget route. Start as for Go Go Gadget 2010 Remix then use the better holds to the right to gain the rail and finish directly up. An easier alternative to the 2010 remix on the same line of bolts (might be a bit harder for shorter folk).

Soloed by Jason Lammers before the bolts were in.

Right of MG, at thin vertical seam, battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall. Originally toproped a bit right at the start.

Keep off the larger holds to the right to earn the grade.

Bouldery with Bolts. Up wall to giant U lower off.

3 rusty carrots

Just right of ALH, and left of manky BR's of B

Marked, Up wall on new RBs, share RB of D. Just right of corner crack

RD on Sydney Rockies reads : Start as for ALH, traverse left & up. Given that ALH is 1m right of In Depth corner crack, its difficult to understand where this "route" is.

On the left arete 1m left of PD. Up arete past 2 Ubolts to lower-off up and right.

6m left of Whippersnapper

Climb diagonally right & up to the left hand lower-offs.

Start 1.5m left of Whippersnapper in the squeeze, straight up wall to last bolt of Nana in the dark and on to anchors.

The left hand side of the boulder as you face it with your back to the cliff has 3 bolted routes. Whippersnapper is the RH route. Hard start, then up juggy wall and left to righthand anchor (clip and go).

Start on the small pocket with left hand(not some pile of rocks) then to a ok knob before a monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to lower-offs. 18 if you start on the cairn. Variant top out via the mantle (21).

Start up Lucky's Roof to the 1st bolt then right to lip past 2 bolts (not on easy flake), then left to big flake and hard move up wall

Start as for Lucky's Roof then take the right leading bolts direct through the roof as for Felix (avoiding the major roof flake), then climb the seam crack up the headwall just right of Felix to shared single bolt lower-off. The headwall is a bit bold with the bolt spacing.

Pumpy fun. Start through roof as for Death of a Black Boy then left along lip and up to single U lower at top.

Start from the cave under the big block as for Monkey Bars.

Out right through the roof and up orange wall past fixed hangers to U-bolt anchors.

On the back of The Block, to the right of the 'PLEASE DONT PISS HERE' writing in chalk.

2 ring bolts to double u bolt belay.

To the right of Please Don't Piss Here, on the back of the The Block. And, as the disgruntled boulderer has written in chalk, don't pee here.

From under the lip, up the line of rings to double rings.

As Grandma's Wheelchair but climb directly through the cave to give it a punchy and fun start.

Past Python, on LHS of cave.

Up the side of cave, right across the top, then straight up - now fully rebolted.

Start as for Grandma's Wheelchair, but straight up.

Start in corner 3m L of Skullduggery, up and right then up rounded buttress finishing on right. Reachy and rounded. Recently rebolted.

There is a common variant of this route that uses the same bolts, but involves traversing to the right of the bulge towards Skullduggery between the first and second clip, then heading to the top on good holds. This skips the crux of the main route and changes the grade to a 16 or 17.

Start: Below traverse line, 3m left of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete.

Directly up the wall past RBs to lower off. The best rock at Bangor !

Corner crack just left of End of The Decade. 2BR out right or can be led as trad. Good varied climbing.

Wall 1m Left of Grotto Crack, hard if you don't use the crack on the left at the 2nd U bolt. Lower off around to left. Beware the old garden seat at the top of this route from which people may throw down rocks and rubbish.

Tricky! Start by climbing directly up arete and continue up past 3 Ubolts to lower off.

Boulder problem start to Zip from under roof

Shortest stamina route in the Shire. Start up Zip then left along traverse line through roof and up. Right to Zip anchors or backjump (easier)

Start on other side of block near gully. one carrot

Start on right, either hard boulder or jump off block to jugs and up R edge to lower off.

Left of racy, hard start and up then R to shared lower off with Racy

Start about 2m L of the corner (Slobbery Dog) and up then big move left. Lungey stuff.

Gabriele G

Jorge Packer

Start on boulder 3m R of Belly Bulge, step on to lip of roof and up slab.

Start 1m R of crack, up past 2 Ubolts then left to shared U and lower-off.

Start on left of crack and up to lower off.

Left most route, facing the cliff. A bit lame, but still fun. Great newbie climb. Beware of soft and lose sandstone. Much deterioration on this climb.

Up dirty looking crack to slopers. Committing finish.

Up edges and block, then round left of roof and up. Use long slings or rap down to clean due to rope drag. Beware of soft and loose sandstone in cave under overhang at the finish. Several holds broken off on start making it much more difficult to get going.

Up arete then through roof to the right. Again, use long slings or rap down to clean. Beware of soft and loose sandstone in cave under overhang at the finish.

Jugs, crimps and slopers all in less than 7m of climbing.

Crimpy and steep.