Routes as sport in Sutherland

Start at the high side at the base of the wall

Start at left side of Arête

Slabby start then keep to the left

Loose and blocky. Start on left side of face, 2m right of arete. Up slab to steeper wall with easy finish. Glue in BRs to DBB.

Climb as you like straight up or to the left or right of the climb

Start strait up face veering left to small overhang overhang makes it hard to see last bolt up and over to anchors above

Start to the right of Shoulder On using its second bolt stay to the right up over the right side of the overhang shares anchors with Shoulder On

Around 15m further right from Fixed Firmament. Mid wall, up seam and breaks to ledge with old stump. Squeeze up between blocks to tree belay. Old carrots. Bit loose, lots of funnelwebs. Could go on gear?

4m right of GanbaGanba. Up the Arete to gain cave. mantle up top block (crux). A few old carrots on the way up, bring bolt plates if you want to trust them. Single rusty carrot up top but good tree not far on right (top of GanbaGanba) can be used in an anchor.

Stays dry! Easiest to walk in from top, opposite corner of Lugarno Parade and Fir Pl, walk 40m south the cliffedge, and down diagonal dirty gully, then left facing downhill to cave. This route crosses 2 of the old aid lines. Start off ledge and interestingly establish yourself above the bulge to a rising traverse and single bolt anchor at the lip of the roof. Back drop a couple of bolts to clean.

Hard off the deck on old school chipped pockets to an easier finish

Start below the right hand arete of the main wall. "A prominent nose, a bit thin on top.".

Start left of G. (Rebolted DEC 2019)

Start: Left of R. Up tending right (4 BRs).

2 stainless carrots and 1 rusty one on way up. Can rap off sling around tree to the right of flat boulder on top.

Start: 30m left of main wall. 2 BRs to lower off. Not as hard as it looks.

Black slab 10m R of Green Frogs and Liver, and 20m left of main wall. Up to move through bulge then easily to lower off, shared with Runnel Wall.

Start 2m R of Blackened Slab. Step up R on ledge then up to big ledge. Left to nose and up to shared lower-off. Set up for a practice belay in the middle off 2 rings.

Start 1m left of MacGuyer, up. Nice but tiny. Soloed then bolted.

Start as for McGuyver and up, move left to single bolt lower off for Iota. Soloed then bolted.

Start on left side of short orange wall. Traverse right wards along the break then up the big flake. Continue to move right to anchors below big tree.

As per M, but continue to traverse along the break for another bolt then up the tricky moves on NA.

Start: Below orange streak, left of main wall. Thin and bulgy. 3 Ubolts to shared lower off with M

Start up Suburbanitis for a few bolts, then slightly left up the thin wall.

Nice wall with a hard thin start and easy finish. Start at big pockets on left side of tall wall. Most people go right into Brown Hornet for a move, then back left to 2nd bolt. Cruxy thin moves for three bolts to ledge. Up to steep flake with cool, easy moves, then right and up to lower-off anchor.

Start 1m right of S. Stickclip first ring and boulder the bulge at the start to pockets. Trend right for a few bolts then straight up the middle of wall above to shared lower-off with S.

A great wall route with excellent features. Juggy pockets to start, then a few tricky moves to gain big left facing flake. Also makes quite a nice trad route, throw a few extra cams in to protect the start.

2m right of BS. Crag classic up the highest part of this crag. A long featured wall climb with lots of stainless.

Don't dodge the crux if you want the full tick - it goes!

Burly start right of SM, with a bit of a move to start.

Start 2m R of Cherry. Stick clip bolt then boulder up and dyno to jug. Continue as for FMS. Death bolt replaced 17/3/2020.

Start: small corner at right end of wall, up and leftwards up scooped arete to double rings. 5 rings.

Roof in cave up and right of FMS. Small biner recommended for 2nd bolt.

Pumpy! Start just right of Mad Bolter and traverse left crossing MB at the 3rd bolt. Finishes with hands on top at the crack, backjump to clean.

Corner and arete 4m L of 4moves3bolts

Easy once you find the correct holds, hard to onsight though. Climb the crack and wall just R of Bumbly's First, step left to shared lower-off.

18m R of main wall area, 2m R of a short crack. Up to horizontal and R to Ubolt. Up to big ledge and up wall easily behind.

Start 2m R of 4 moves 3 bolts. Up, up, and away. Bouldery.

3m R of Breaking Good in middle of wall, 3m L of seam (Gushing Knees). Step off short persons cheater rock on first ledge (clip 1st bolt with a single screwgate to limit fall distance and unclipping) and up and head left. Slight runout to the anchor.

Start 25m R of main wall, some 5m R of the smooth orange section (Breaking Good) at a thin seam, and about 2m R of a corgi-sized boulder (It's a Wrap) sitting on the ledge. Marked gK. May have been an old top-rope route.(clip 1st bolt with a single screwgate to limit fall distance and unclipping)

Start 1.5 m R of Gushing Knees. Hardest of the 3 'easy' routes. Share a hold with Necropolis Kidney then up and left to share anchors with Gushing Knees. (clip 1st bolt with a single screwgate to limit fall distance and unclipping)

About 30m R of the Main Wall is a smooth wall. Scramble up onto the ledge and find line of RBs and old carrots 2m R of a painted "K" on the wall. Move slightly right to lower off (shared with VLP).

Tricky slab 2m R of NK and 3m L of an orange left-facing corner (VC), then super orange stone and left to laybacks. 4 rings. Share loweroff with NK.

Start 1m R of Necropolis Kidney and 2m left of the corner (Vintage Cuvee). Up and around roof, bridging into Vintage Cuvee for a move. Reachy.

About 35m R of the main wall at a left facing orange corner. Easy start and up into nice corner. Pop out of the corner and up the nice headwall. All new RB's in 2014.

A great pocket pulling crux. Start 3m R of Vintage Direct, up thin walls and pull roof. All Ubolts now

12m R of Vintage Direct at tree. Easily to roof and heave yourself up and past lip to laybacky glory.

Start as for Show Us Your Form. Step right to seam and up.

Line starts 3m R of Show Us Your Form.

Start as for GR and at the roof traverse across into WFH using the bolts from both. The drag through the draws is quite extensive by the end, and is best dealt with by unclipping the second draw of GR once you've clipped the third in the roof. There are options with how many draws you use.

2 fun boulders. Start up GMS, and move left at the break after the 3rd bolt - Up and thru the small roof to anchors.

Start 10m R of SUYF in cave. Up steeply left and on to the head wall. The first move is the crux, unless you start about 1.5m right of the first bolt - which lops off at least a grade.

Start 5m R of GMS in cave. Hard start (left of the first bolt) and up to horizontal flake thingo. Clip a couple RB's in the roof, and then up the pumpy headwall.

Up RS to the Mikl flake (use extended draw or sling here) and traverse right across the lip of the roof to a big move on big holds to easy finish.

Steep start with some hard moves thru the V - then easy to the top.

Start 10m R of RS at the right side of roofs. 6 Ubolts to lower off.

Clip first bolt on 'SJ' then up rightwards thru the bulges.

Start at right end of cave, at right side of small trees sitting against the rock, 4m R of Sideline Jack. Up. Another nice warmup.

Face just right of left arete. Thin! Needs a rebolt - currently two rust carrots.

Great thin face in the middle of the wall on ringbolts. Single U-bolt lower off or top out like the guys int he 80s did.

Good fun sport route up the right side of the grid bolted face, and just left of major corner. Starts with a short finger crack then face to top. Single large U-bolt lower anchor.

Reachy face with unique chunky featured rock in the top section. 3 older FHs that seem ok. No lower-off, but one single FH right at the top.

Two FHs. Lower-off U bolt is well back from edge of cliff on boulder. not worth the stars

Fun steep route on far left end of cave with very high first bolt. Stick-clip it! Clipping the anchors is probably the crux, especially if you are short.

Start as for UotO, then up and right past a couple more bolts to a bouldery finish.

Starts on left side of crag outside the cave. Straight up to double UBs. Excellent. Ignore the first bolt. And Stick clip second

Start as for bucks party. Move right through roof and up headwall. Knee pad or tee shirt for the right knee is recommended.. very good and very hard.. the right start is the "To Suit" project

closed project

Start in back of cave on small ledge. Climb roof to big ledge then Continue traversing left and finish out of sight of belayer on small vegetated ledge on far left.

Start as for Bat Hang for 4 bolts then go right and out the ceiling to single U-bolt and old homemade hanger in middle of roof. Grade needs confirmation.

A futuristic bolted project. Pocketed roof flake.

Mini (impossible?) bolted project. Starts 5m right of Suburban Realty.

Insanely hard . But possible. Batman start

Starts just right of the detached block, below a small, bulgy black wall. Up (RB and FH) to BB.

Start on block under low roof. Up and out the left hand side of the steep prow (3 FHs), then up the easy sandy slab above (dodgy BR) to double BB belay.

Really weird climbing. Up to first FH on PWtW, then follow flake right through sandy overhang (2 more FHs). Up the arete ridge to rejoin PWtW (BR to double BB belay).

Start just round the corner of LGR off detached block. Chin undercut start and follow crack (3 BRs). First move is hard.

Best route at the crag! Start below left side of bulging, grey slab. Tenuous arete to start, then straight up the engaging slab above--tricky top out, slightly easier to left in shallow and narrow chimney. 3 FHs to single carrot (best to top out, rap from tree at back, or build anchor with v-long sling to carrot at top of Bulges).

Also excellent! Up right side of bulging slab. Use the arete to start then go left onto slab. 3 BRs to triple BB.

Contrived but engaging. Follow 3 BRs (staying left of the crease) to a double BB belay up on top of the cliff (or lower off BRs on ledge 2m lower down).

Start: 1m right of StN

Up, staying just right of the crease (3 BRs to the same double BB belay). The first BR looks very dodgy.

Start: 1m right of DB.

Stand up to face, then move right, following 4 BRs. Same belay as for DB and F.

Start: As for F.

Hand traverse the lip of the roof, then mantle up to join T.

Start: As for T.

10m right of CT. Featured arete at right end of chossy cave with two FHs. Really fun steep climbing. Bonus lower-off chain.

Up the slab (2 FHs) to BB.

Start: Right of the right hand crack.

Follow the flake into a overhang crux and finish to shared anchors.

Needs one more bolt at the start RB1 to finish it..

Short climb with a couple of nice technical moves.

Start right side of Balz Zack as a alternate route and into shared anchors.