The Villas Cliffs Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Kyle Dunsire Adrian Kladnig Sebastian Sakowicz Brendan Heywood David Barrie Jason Lammers boulderakov Luke Brett H Diego DeDiana

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

1. The Villas Cliffs 17 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. The Villas Cliffs 17 routes in Area

Summary:

Seasonality

All Bouldering

access issues

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

inherited from Sutherland

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
1	Hairy Joe's Banana Shack 1st problem in the little cave next to the pipes. 'Excellent' and hard. FA: Paul Westwood, 2000	V11	Boulder
2	Squeaky Dog Tough start, then enjoyable up the slab past the big pocket. 'Escape' right.	V3	Boulder
3	★★ Unhinged A committing barndoory classic	V5	Boulder
4	★★★ Derailed Bad landing, powerful and classic! Matti Puckridge	V8 R	Boulder 5m
5	★ Ren Pleasant.	V3	Boulder
6	Stimpy Bad landing, committing and cute.	V3 R	Boulder
Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
7	★★★ Help Good	V6	Boulder
8	★★ Mummy I'm Scared Same start as Help, but move right of the arete and up.	V4	Boulder
9	★ Rock On Up the wall in front of the small tree	V3	Boulder 4m
10	★★ Help into Rock On Link sit start of 'Help into Rock On'	V7	Boulder
11	★ Fumy Webs Up the seam	V1	Boulder
Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
12	★★ Boobs Best easy problem at crag.	V1	Boulder 3m
13	★ Pox Up the shitty arete, bad landing and bad rock.	V3 R	Boulder
14	★★★ Human Pinball A nice short powerful, overhanging arete. Bad landing	V5 R	Boulder
15	★★ Letter Box Up the wall via a committing lock.	V3	Boulder
16	★ Playground Start in break below rooflet, up and over, red rover.	V2	Boulder 4m
17	★ Like A Finger Up Your Bum If you're into that type of thing!	V2	Boulder 4m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
V1	★★	Boobs	Boulder 3m
	★	Fumy Webs	Boulder
V2	★	Like A Finger Up Your Bum	Boulder 4m
	★	Playground	Boulder 4m
V3	★★	Letter Box	Boulder
	★	Ren	Boulder
	★	Rock On	Boulder 4m
		Squeaky Dog	Boulder
V3 R	★	Pox	Boulder
		Stimpy	Boulder
V4	★★	Mummy I'm Scared	Boulder
V5	★★	Unhinged	Boulder
V5 R	★★★	Human Pinball	Boulder
V6	★★★	Help	Boulder
V7	★★	Help into Rock On	Boulder
V8 R	★★★	Derailed	Boulder 5m
V11		Hairy Joe's Banana Shack	Boulder