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Table of contents
- 1.
Villas
47 in Crag
- 1.1. Cops Are Tops Cave 9 in Area
- 1.2. The Villas Cliffs 17 in Area
- 1.3. The Villas Cave 21 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Villas 47 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.025568, 151.050225
description
This area once contained some of the most extensive bouldering in the Shire, but a December 2016 ban of the Cave sector by Sutherland Shire Council has reduced the climbable rock by half. Please stay out of the cave and only climb on the vertical walls and boulders on the left side.
access issues
For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing
approach
Park at the start of Rata Place, Sutherland, where the big green pipe crosses under the road. Follow the pipe leftwards for about 75m, then drop off right towards the river into the jumbled rocks. After about 15m, you'll be on a vague terrace, head left for 10m for the 'Cops Are Tops Cave', otherwise continue down the dodgy descent for another 30m. The first problems described are about 25m right along the cliff line, next to the exposed pipes.
1.1. Cops Are Tops Cave 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.025516, 151.050429
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Cops Are Tops
Great problem but soft for the grade. | V5 | 3m | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Compliments And Complaints
As for CAT, but go right through underclings to an easier finish over right. | V4 | 3m | |||||
| 3 |
★ B2
Sit start on right side of cave up and out. | V0 | 3m | |||||
| 4 |
★ Catch me coppa
Sit start, easy jugging | V0 | 2m | |||||
| 5 |
★ Succulent Chinese fart
Sit start both hand on nice edge, then boost it to nice big pocket then top out. | V3 | 3m | |||||
| 6 |
Dog Burglar
Sit start on ledge 1.5m R of SCF. Up, following edge, to SCF top out. Set: Lachlan S | V2 | 3m | |||||
| 7 |
Dog Burglar Eliminate
L) hand crimp in small hollow is off Set: Lachlan S | V3 | 3m | |||||
| 8 |
I Must be Buffed
20m south is a small arete next to a petite gum tree. 'Excellent' climbing. | V2 | ||||||
| 9 | ★★ Bikini Chicks | V3 | ||||||
1.2. The Villas Cliffs 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Hairy Joe's Banana Shack
1st problem in the little cave next to the pipes. 'Excellent' and hard. FA: Paul Westwood, 2000 | V11 | ||||||
| 2 |
Squeaky Dog
Tough start, then enjoyable up the slab past the big pocket. 'Escape' right. | V3 | ||||||
| 3 |
★★ Unhinged
A committing barndoory classic | V5 | ||||||
| 4 |
★★★ Derailed
Bad landing, powerful and classic! | V8 R | 5m | |||||
| 5 |
★ Ren
Pleasant. | V3 | ||||||
| 6 |
Stimpy
Bad landing, committing and cute. | V3 R | ||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 7 |
★★★ Help
Good | V6 | ||||||
| 8 |
★★ Mummy I'm Scared
Same start as Help, but move right of the arete and up. | V4 | ||||||
| 9 |
★ Rock On
Up the wall in front of the small tree | V3 | 4m | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Help into Rock On
Link sit start of 'Help into Rock On' | V7 | ||||||
| 11 |
★ Fumy Webs
Up the seam | V1 | ||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Boobs
Best easy problem at crag. | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 13 |
★ Pox
Up the shitty arete, bad landing and bad rock. | V3 R | ||||||
| 14 |
★★★ Human Pinball
A nice short powerful, overhanging arete. Bad landing | V5 R | ||||||
| 15 |
★★ Letter Box
Up the wall via a committing lock. | V3 | ||||||
| 16 |
★ Playground
Start in break below rooflet, up and over, red rover. | V2 | 4m | |||||
| 17 |
★ Like A Finger Up Your Bum
If you're into that type of thing! | V2 | 4m | |||||
Matti Puckridge1.3. The Villas Cave 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
The cave with the shell midden floor was once a popular bouldering area but was declared closed in December 2016 by Sutherland Shire Council and Dept Environment and Heritage as the cave is considered an aboriginal occupation site. This is the home of Australia's first V12, Contact.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Level Crossing
Start on the obvious edge just right of the arete, traverse right to finish (stay below the sandy jugs) | V3 | 3m | |||||
| 2 |
★ Burping
From the big jug a couple of metres right of the corner, go straight up to the sandy jugs. The back wall is off for your feet | V2 | 2m | |||||
| 3 |
★ Beer
Start on the lip of the roof, 1m right of big jug to the finish. | V3 | 2m | |||||
| 4 |
★★★ Burgers
Crag Classic FA: Paul Westwood, 2000 | V5 | 3m | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Contact
The first V12 in OZ! Very powerful. FA: Paul Westwood | V12 | ||||||
| 6 |
Contact RHV
Contact finishing up Savage | V12 | ||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 7 |
★★★ Savage
Hard for the grade. Sustained, pumpy and powerful. FA: Paul Westwood, 2000 | V8 | 4m | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Shoosh
Start 'Savage', finish 'Paul's Present', no back wall. FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007 | V10 R | ||||||
| 9 |
Potato Salad
Direct finish to Shoosh - go straight up around the lip without using the juggy lip hold out right FA: Tom Farrell | V11 | ||||||
| 10 |
★★★ Paul's Present
A great present from the Toni and Klem road trip of '99. Very committing, desperate and good. Pad out the landing well as falling from the top out would be very ugly. FA: Toni Lamprecht, 2000 | V10 R | 7m | |||||
| 11 |
★★★ Patience and Understanding
Paul's Present finishing up Exit Wounds. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 11 Aug 2015 | V12 | ||||||
| 12 |
★★ Entry Point
Start Exit Wounds and make four or five moves linking into Paul's Present. Could be soft? FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 2013 | V10 R | ||||||
| 13 |
★★★ Exit Wounds
2 metres right of PP. Start on a good edge and an undercling (to the left of the small rock). Move powerfully out the roof left of the crack, and then bodly up the airy headwall trending left. | V10 R | ||||||
| 14 |
★★ Crack Attack
From the back of the cave, follow the holds out the roof crack (no jamming required). Dodgy landing, finish rightwards. | V6 R | 6m | |||||
| 15 |
Off Peak
Start in underclings at the back of the cave (back wall is on), climb out and into right hand side of scoop, then move right and across to the big pockets, before tackling the powerful headwall. Bad landing | V7 R | ||||||
| 16 | Off Peak Var | V4 | ||||||
| 17 |
★ I Can't see
Up just left of small tree | V3 | ||||||
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||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 18 |
Slab Club
Up left of 'The Crack' | V2 | ||||||
| 19 |
★ The Crack
The awesome offwidth - jam it. | V2 | 4m | |||||
| 20 |
★ Grande
25m further right of 'The Crack'. In the cave. | V5 | 3m | |||||
| 21 |
★ The Glasshouse
Start matched on the obvious crimpy ledge on the left of the bloc. Traverse right across the seam, then up to finish on the slopey ledge at the base of the roof Start: 3 metres right of 'Grande' FA: Brett Heino | V3 | ||||||
