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Table of contents
- 1. Whale Boulders 16 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Whale Boulders 16 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.002025, 151.223583
summary
Seaside bouldering
description
An awesome spot to escape the summer heat with afternoon shade and the sea breeze. The best time to climb is in between mid to late afternoon and sunset as this avoids the direct sun and most of the pedestrian traffic. An excellent area for beginner and intermediate boulders with many boulders in different styles. Bring a brush as it can get very sandy. Problems are listed west to east.
access issues
Inherited from Cape Solander Kurnell. Officially rock climbing is not allowed in this National Park. Keep a low profile, do not use ropes or bolts, do not abseil, do not go in large groups, avoid disturbing any wildlife or birds, take any rubbish (yours and others) with you and avoid climbing here during public holidays. The boulders are all located on the intertidal platform and some areas are inaccessible during king tides or large swells.
approach
Located in Kamay Botany Bay National Park in the suburb of Kurnell. Pay your $8 national park fee and park in the Commemoration Flat Carpark. Walk down to the Whale Sculpture then walk east along the rock shelf.
It is also possible to access this area via “The Step” near the Inscription Point car park.
history
First climbed during the 2020 and 2021 covid lockdowns.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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The Wave | ||||||||
2 |
★ Into the Channel
Sit start holding the lower portion of the ledge and facing towards the whale statue. Heel hook and rock over to the good jug, then easy moves to the top. Great warm up. FA: Arden Burrell, 2021 | VB | 2m | |||||
3 |
Caught Inside
Its v0 starting from the ledge. V2 for the sit start in the cave with the underclings and feet on the small step. The undercling Variant adds a huge dino to start. FA: Arden Burrell, 2021 | V0 | 2m | |||||
4 |
★★★ Getting Shacked
Same sit start as Into the Channel. Traverse hanging under the ledge until the ledge juts out. Then climb out to the top. For optional style points, toe hook and a knee bar to get out from under the ledge. FA: Arden Burrell, 2021 | V1 | 7m | |||||
5 |
★★★ Time in the Green Room
Same sit start as Into the Channel. Traverse hanging under the ledge for the entire wall topping out via the large bulge just before the end. Video of Arden Burrell FA: Arden Burrell, 10 Feb | V3 | 10m | |||||
6 |
Kelly’s 10 point ride
Huge cave project that links the entire wall. Longer than many shire sport routes. Guess it will be a v4 range. | |||||||
7 |
★ Smack the lip... Waapah!
Warning Rock: Key hold boke Huge dino from the start holds to the lip, or static it with a bat hang. 2024 update: A recent storm broke the left pinch. This means the dyno got way bigger and harder. The problem itself is still be possilbe, but the grade will be way harder than v3. Orirginal: Match start with bad feet, Deadpoint to a pinch then dino to the top. | V4 | ||||||
8 |
★ Over the Falls
Starts 1m to the right of Hang 5 on sharp edges, feet on holds in the roof of the cave. Follow the line between the soft and hard sandstone topping out to the right of Hang 5. An extra pad or two is a nice to have as the top out is exposed, and the extra padding is nice incase you go over the falls. FA: Arden Burrell, 5 Mar | V1 | 3m | |||||
9 |
★★ Hang Five
Start hands matched on the bulge, then straight up the ocean side face. Top out on solid holds. Most of the problem can be campused for those who like that sort of thing. The rock on the problem is bomber, but gets soft and crumbly about 1.5m to the right. Don't traverse to the right. FA: Arden Burrell, 2021 | V1 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
The Bowl | ||||||||
11 | Three Fins for the win | V0 | ||||||
12 |
★ Ring the bell
Starts matched on the sloper with bad feet, then straight up. Bring a brush, this one gets very sandy after rain. | V0+ | 3m | |||||
13 |
Fannings shark punch
V1 with sit start, v0 without. | V1 | ||||||
The Corner | ||||||||
15 |
★★★ Vimes' Boots
Start hands matched on undercling under the arête, feet on the adjactent wall. Then use the arête to move up and top out. FA: Arden Burrell, 2021 | V1 | 4m | |||||
16 |
Captain Carrots crotch protector
Open Project. Start left hand in the slot crimp, right in the sloppy gaston. Body tension and terrible feet up to get to the four finger pocket then desperate moves to the top. Humidity can make this almost feel impossible. | |||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
17 |
★★ Slap the Whale
Start on the under cling, then move to the crimps to do a big huck to the lip. Height will affect grade on this one. FA: Sam Farrar | V5 | ||||||
18 |
★ Killer Flail
Start on under cling/sidepull thingo, finish on massive jug. FA: Sam Farrar | V5 | ||||||
19 |
Proj
Follow lip around to top out. Going off memory of there being holds, go try it out. |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
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VB | ★ | Into the Channel | 2m | ||
V0 | Caught Inside | 2m | |||
Three Fins for the win | |||||
V0+ | ★ | Ring the bell | 3m | ||
V1 | Fannings shark punch | ||||
★★★ | Getting Shacked | 7m | |||
★★ | Hang Five | ||||
★ | Over the Falls | 3m | |||
★★★ | Vimes' Boots | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★★ | Time in the Green Room | 10m | ||
V4 | ★ | Smack the lip... Waapah! | |||
V5 | ★ | Killer Flail | |||
★★ | Slap the Whale | ||||
? | Captain Carrots crotch protector | ||||
Kelly’s 10 point ride | |||||
Proj |