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Whale Boulders Guide

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 57

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Arden Burrell Johanna

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Table of contents

1. Whale Boulders 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
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Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.002025, 151.223583

summary

Seaside bouldering

description

An awesome spot to escape the summer heat with afternoon shade and the sea breeze. The best time to climb is in ‎between mid to late afternoon and sunset as this avoids the direct sun and most of the pedestrian traffic. An excellent ‎area for beginner and intermediate boulders with many boulders in different styles. Bring a brush as it can get very ‎sandy. Problems are listed west to east. ‎

access issues

Inherited from Cape Solander Kurnell. Officially rock climbing is not allowed in this National Park. Keep a low profile, do ‎not use ropes or bolts, do not abseil, do not go in large groups, avoid disturbing any wildlife or birds, take any rubbish ‎‎(yours and others) with you and avoid climbing here during public holidays. The boulders are all located on the intertidal ‎platform and some areas are inaccessible during king tides or large swells. ‎

approach

Located in Kamay Botany Bay National Park in the suburb of Kurnell. Pay your $8 national park fee and park in the ‎Commemoration Flat Carpark. Walk down to the Whale Sculpture then walk east along the rock shelf.

It is also possible ‎to access this area via “The Step” near the Inscription Point car park. ‎

history

First climbed during the 2020 and 2021 covid lockdowns. ‎

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The Wave

2 Into the Channel

Sit start holding the lower portion of the ledge and facing towards the whale statue. Heel hook and rock over to the good jug, then easy moves to the top. Great warm up.

FA: Arden Burrell, 2021

VB Boulder 2m
3 Caught Inside

Its v0 starting from the ledge. V2 for the sit start in the cave with the underclings and feet on the small step. The undercling Variant adds a huge dino to start.

FA: Arden Burrell, 2021

V0 Boulder 2m
4 Getting Shacked

Same sit start as Into the Channel. Traverse hanging under the ledge until the ledge juts out. Then climb out to the top. For optional style points, toe hook and a knee bar to get out from under the ledge.

FA: Arden Burrell, 2021

V1 Boulder 7m
5 Time in the Green Room

Same sit start as Into the Channel. Traverse hanging under the ledge for the entire wall topping out via the large bulge just before the end.

Video of Arden Burrell

FA: Arden Burrell, 10 Feb

V3 BoulderProject 10m
6 Kelly’s 10 point ride‎

Huge cave project that links the entire wall. Longer than many shire sport routes. Guess it will be a v4 range.

BoulderProject
7 Smack the lip... Waapah!‎

Warning Rock: Key hold boke

Huge dino from the start holds to the lip, or static it with a bat hang.

2024 update: A recent storm broke the left pinch. This means the dyno got way bigger and harder. The problem itself is still be possilbe, but the grade will be way harder than v3.

Orirginal: Match start with bad feet, Deadpoint to a pinch then dino to the top.

V4 Boulder
8 Over the Falls

Starts 1m to the right of Hang 5 on sharp edges, feet on holds in the roof of the cave. Follow the line between the soft and hard sandstone topping out to the right of Hang 5. An extra pad or two is a nice to have as the top out is exposed, and the extra padding is nice incase you go over the falls.

FA: Arden Burrell, 5 Mar

V1 Boulder 3m
9 Hang Five

Start hands matched on the bulge, then straight up the ocean side face. Top out on solid holds. Most of the problem can be campused for those who like that sort of thing. The rock on the problem is bomber, but gets soft and crumbly about 1.5m to the right. Don't traverse to the right.

FA: Arden Burrell, 2021

V1 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The Bowl

11 Three Fins for the win V0 Boulder
12 Ring the bell

Starts matched on the sloper with bad feet, then straight up. Bring a brush, this one gets very sandy after rain.

V0+ Boulder 3m
13 Fannings shark punch

V1 with sit start, v0 without.

V1 Boulder

‎The Corner

15 Vimes' Boots

Start hands matched on undercling under the arête, feet on the adjactent wall. Then use the arête to move up and top out.

FA: Arden Burrell, 2021

V1 Boulder 4m
16 Captain Carrots crotch protector ‎

Open Project. Start left hand in the slot crimp, right in the sloppy gaston. Body tension and terrible feet up to get to the four finger pocket then desperate moves to the top. Humidity can make this almost feel impossible.

BoulderProject
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Slap the Whale

Start on the under cling, then move to the crimps to do a big huck to the lip. Height will affect grade on this one.

V5 Boulder
18 Killer Flail

Start on under cling/sidepull thingo, finish on massive jug.

V5 Boulder
19 Proj

Follow lip around to top out. Going off memory of there being holds, go try it out.

BoulderProject

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
VB Into the Channel Boulder 2m
V0 Caught Inside Boulder 2m
Three Fins for the win Boulder
V0+ Ring the bell Boulder 3m
V1 Fannings shark punch Boulder
Getting Shacked Boulder 7m
Hang Five Boulder
Over the Falls Boulder 3m
Vimes' Boots Boulder 4m
V3 Time in the Green Room BoulderProject 10m
V4 Smack the lip... Waapah!‎ Boulder
V5 Killer Flail Boulder
Slap the Whale Boulder
? Captain Carrots crotch protector ‎ BoulderProject
Kelly’s 10 point ride‎ BoulderProject
Proj BoulderProject
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