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Illawong Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Maximilian W M Keatinge David Barnes Adam Rabjohns mathew Phil Ward Ryan Whelan Rob Barker

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Table of contents

1. Illawong 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.004834, 151.042365

summary

Easy access Variety of climbs well shaded in summer

© (Zack)

description

This has to be one of the easiest accessed cliffs in Sydney. A dozen very doable and well protected routes for the after work, suburban fix. Skin is a must do, if you can do it?

access issues

.

approach

Drive about two thirds of the way down Redman Ave in 'Illawong'. Park opposite number 31. The cliff is located about 10m directly off the road, with descents at either end of the cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Butt Ugly with Gravy

Starts just right of the detached block, below a small, bulgy black wall. Up (RB and FH) to BB.

17 Sport 7m, 2
2 Dykes on Bikes (project) 20 Unknown 9m
3 Just Dance (project) 23 Unknown 9m
4 Pissing With the Wind

Start on block under low roof. Up and out the left hand side of the steep prow (3 FHs), then up the easy sandy slab above (dodgy BR) to double BB belay.

18 Sport 10m, 4
5 Let's Get Ripped

Really weird climbing. Up to first FH on PWtW, then follow flake right through sandy overhang (2 more FHs). Up the arete ridge to rejoin PWtW (BR to double BB belay).

21 Sport 10m, 4
6 Open the Pod Bay Door Hal

Start just round the corner of LGR off detached block. Chin undercut start and follow crack (3 BRs). First move is hard.

FA: S. Tullock & D. Stone, 2000

17 Sport 10m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Skin

Best route at the crag! Start below left side of bulging, grey slab. Tenuous arete to start, then straight up the engaging slab above--tricky top out, slightly easier to left in shallow and narrow chimney. 3 FHs to single carrot (best to top out, rap from tree at back, or build anchor with v-long sling to carrot at top of Bulges).

FA: Dave Barnes

21 Sport 10m, 3
8 Bulges

Also excellent! Up right side of bulging slab. Use the arete to start then go left onto slab. 3 BRs to triple BB.

17 Sport 10m, 3
9 Shlonging the Nurse

Fun layback flake on trad gear.

13 Trad 10m
10 Dodgy Bolt

Contrived but engaging. Follow 3 BRs (staying left of the crease) to a double BB belay up on top of the cliff (or lower off BRs on ledge 2m lower down).

Start: 1m right of StN

FA: D. Stone & T. Pool, 1992

17 Sport 10m, 3
11 Flaky

Up, staying just right of the crease (3 BRs to the same double BB belay). The first BR looks very dodgy.

Start: 1m right of DB.

FA: D. Stone & T. Pool, 1992

16 Sport 10m, 3
12 Troada

Stand up to face, then move right, following 4 BRs. Same belay as for DB and F.

Start: As for F.

FA: P. Faill & D. Stone, 1992

15 Sport 10m, 4
13 Troada Direct Start

Hand traverse the lip of the roof, then mantle up to join T.

Start: As for T.

FA: Doug Smith, 1999

19 Sport 8m
14 A (Project)

Top rope only?

Start: Right of T.

? Unknown 10m
15 Chicken Therapy

Start: Inside cave at left-hand corner crack. Follow crack all the way to roof (mid-sized cams), then out and up. DBB at top set back and to the right.

FA: Phil Ward, 2010

18 Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 Olympic Spirit

10m right of CT. Featured arete at right end of chossy cave with two FHs. Really fun steep climbing. Bonus lower-off chain.

15 Sport 8m, 2
17 Blood from the Territory

Up the slab (2 FHs) to BB.

Start: Right of the right hand crack.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

15 Sport 8m
18 Breakfast Radio

Up short seam (dodgy micro wires), then up wall (FH) and arete to double BB.

Start: Right side of arete.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

18 Trad 8m
19 B

Up the crack (BR near top), over small roof to chain lower off.

Start: Below incipient corner crack.

? Unknown 10m
20 Angel 125

Up the crack then out steep section (2 FHs) to double BB.

Start: 6m right of B, below vague crack.

FA: David Barnes, 2000

16 Unknown 10m
21 Just Dance (open project)

Up DOB to FH, then move right following the seam (wires, mid size cam and FH). Up to double BB.

Mixed trad 9m, 2
22 Dykes on Bikes

Cool features. Below the right hand side of the next arete to the right. Onto wall (FH) and left to the dyke (FH). Up (mid size cam) to double BB.

FA: Dave Pastafarian, 16 May 2020

21 Mixed trad 9m, 2
23 All Fours

A boulder problem starting on small block and traversing right to finish in flake in roof. Located below start of PWW.

V3 Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
13 Shlonging the Nurse Trad 10m
15 Blood from the Territory Sport 8m
Olympic Spirit Sport 8m, 2
Troada Sport 10m, 4
16 Angel 125 Unknown 10m
Flaky Sport 10m, 3
17 Bulges Sport 10m, 3
Butt Ugly with Gravy Sport 7m, 2
Dodgy Bolt Sport 10m, 3
Open the Pod Bay Door Hal Sport 10m, 3
18 Breakfast Radio Trad 8m
Chicken Therapy Trad 10m
Pissing With the Wind Sport 10m, 4
19 Troada Direct Start Sport 8m
20 Dykes on Bikes (project) Unknown 9m
21 Dykes on Bikes Mixed trad 9m, 2
Let's Get Ripped Sport 10m, 4
Skin Sport 10m, 3
V3 All Fours Unknown
23 Just Dance (project) Unknown 9m
? Just Dance (open project) Mixed trad 9m, 2
A (Project) Unknown 10m
B Unknown 10m
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