Showing all 9 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V3/4 | ★★ The Change Up
Jump up to holds on top of nose 4m left of previous climbs. Traverse break right, then up arete, and straight (as for end of So Natural). FA: 2012 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Change up Side to Side
As for Side to side, but continue on through The Change Up. Tiring. FA: dwebster, 2012 | 7m | |||
V4 | ★★★ To My Lichen
Start in the cave with feet at the back wall and hands on the undercling rail. The bottom ledges in the back of the cave are out. Work the line between Side To Side and Back To Front using toe hook(s) in the start-hold underclings, and make your way to the nose. Gather your energy and do The Change Up all the way to the finish. Pumpy and endurance sapping FA: Earl Paras, 7 Aug 2021 | 9m | |||
V4 | ★★ ROCK!
Highballish extension to My Julie. Mantle up nose and then step up right onto airy face without using left face. Named after the huge rock that pulled as first ascentionist pulled over the very top. The rest of the rock seems alright though FA: Tom Bes, Jul 2021 | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★ My Julie direct finish
Instead of finishing on nose feature, mantle up and head directly out up licheny face. FA: Tom Bes, 2021 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Back to Front
As for Side to Side in big hold. Move out to next undercling rail. Then left to jugs, finishing on nose. FA: dwebster, 2012 | 3m | |||
V4 R | ★★ Return of Gladys
We like to take the party all the way. Traverse the whole palace. Start at same jugs for S2S, To my lichen etc with feet on shelf below jug. This climb is to use only the roof no low feet. There's a great rail so live up the toe hooks. Run hands along the rail until coming to the features of My Julie, Side 2 side and My Lichen. From here cross through the ceiling pinches towards the other side of what I will call the bowl of the cave (Open ceiling section where you can look upwards). There is a really nice sloper jug left of the horn where you'll want some rest. Grab a heel hook to and take few seconds. From here continue left and high to a finger rail above what is a very flaky shelf. Please take care of this shelf it's beautiful yet brittle. You may use feet on it but select the thicker corners of the shelf. Traverse along this finger rail until passing the flaky shelf and top out between the two features on low roof. Pray for your skin. Set: Edward Lind, 15 Aug 2021 FA: Jeremi Campese, 15 Aug 2021 | 10m | |||
V4 R | ★★ Rick n Morty
Rock up. Look at Tortuga to the left of this line covered in moss thinking wtf is this. See some pretty cool looking mono pockets. Brain says shove your finger in there cam it from a left hand lock off gaston to a heinous off camber two finger sloper for the grade. Maintain lock left hand in gaston, raise left foot high to break in wall below left hand and effectively pump to high left hand jug. Feels fucking great. Top out to see this wicked looking tree. Life's good. Set: Edward Lind & Jeremi Campese, 8 Aug 2021 FA: Jeremi Campese, 8 Aug 2021 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Glad it's us!
Endurance traverse starting from side to side jug. Pre requisite climb for Gladys. Topo says it all FA: Jeremi Campese, 1 Aug 2021 Set: Edward Lind & Jeremi Campese, 1 Aug 2021 | 6m |
Showing all 9 routes.