Routes in North East for selected grade

Very thin crack and bouldery start up to small bush, then hand crack to the top. Walk off to the right.

A clean corner with flared, thin jamming

The incredible thin tram-tracks, high on the wall just left of Die Nadal P2. Access: Climb either Necrophiliac or Necromancer P1 to ledge. Fiery lay-backing eventually eases to hand-jamming, before a thin finish. Step right at the small roof and continue up easy terrain to the top. A classic.

Classic thin hand crack - a very sustained jamming test-piece. Take plenty of #1 camalots

Thin direct start to Defender of the Faith

Access via the first offwidth/chimney pitch of Rigudon, then climb 2m up and left into the line.

1. 30m (22) - Excellent, sustained climbing following the finger sized crack, with many good (but loose) faceholds on the left.

2. 30m (18)- Continue up the line.

An alternate first pitch to Rajah which 'eliminates' the most beautiful bit of pure hand crack on Rajah. Climb the thin crack immediately right of Ramadan to the first ledge on Rajah.

Incredible east-facing corner

1. 20m 21 Finger crack to the ledge

2. 40m 23 Up the amazing corner, take plenty of finger-sized gear.

3. 40m 18 Continue up over chossy rock to the top. Large gear useful.

A long, ever widening off-width.

Climbs the fallen pillar and cracks before the rock island.

1. 1st pitch has ledge fall potential from 5 meters at crux.

2. 2nd pitch to gain corner after walking along pillar is a grade 17 move with 10+ meter fall potential before getting gear.

3. 3rd pitch is excellent gear and climbing.

A confident grade 23 onsighter should be OK on 1 and 2.

Corner and roofs on left side of buttress just left rock island.

1. 1st pitch is 15 chimney way better than it looks.

2. 2nd 22 is roof and corner up through chockstone roof to hanging belay.

3. 3rd 22 is committing traverse through higher roof.

Sustained good rock and gear all the way.

P1 - 20m (20)

P2 - 35m (23)

P3 - 25m (19)

P1 - 20m (19)

P2 - 50m (22)

P3 - 10m (17)

Starts from a ledge on the RIGHT side of the arete (looking in) 60m from the top (at the same height as the start of Howitzer, but on the opposite side of the arete).

P1 - 50m (21) - Up corner to stance, traverse left across face to join arete, then follow arete (on right side) to ledge.

P2 - 10m (17)

Just about as good as drop-zone. Similar in style. The thin crack leading into the wavy slab-face immediately left of Drop Zone.

Pumpy climbing on huge jugs, at least until they're not. Shared start with Widowmaker. Splits and heads right at the rooflet (3rd bolt). Unclip the first two bolts once you've got the 3rd clipped.

The aesthetic arete covered in flakes just left of the (unbolted) big slab. Looks like a slab, climbs like it's steep.

Another 10m along brings you to this route, the only route on an otherwise undercut long buttress. 22 if you start at the second bolt. Start traversing in from the far right.

The L to R diagonal crack traverse. A grouse girdle starting on the left and heading right. Good gear and great fun. Can now be done on bolts since a bolting resurgence has occurred on the cliff. DBB above the crack on the main face

Originally Led on a single #3 RP, it takes good small cams and gear through the crux.

Stand start with right hand on the corner just under the roof and left hand in a high small pocket. Climb straight up to top. Heading out left to finish makes it quite a bit easier.

Committing no hand problem on small edges as for Zero's None

Sit start to the right of the arete, left hand as low as possible on the arete, right on a good edge, head up via good holds

Sit start under the little overhang on the downhill side of the boulder, slap your way up and left and follow the arete to the top of the boulder

Start in the middle of the face on the horizontal break and head to the left of the pyramid peak.

Start as for the traverse and mantle straight up

Low hanging start right of the arete. right hand on the large rail and left hand on low Sloppy side pull. Pull to arete and up.

Sit start matched on the jug on the far left to traverse the entire horizontal crack.

Sit start on the arete using high RH 3 finger crimp and good LH sloper. Head straight up to gain the ledge via RH sharp crimp, top out straight over the arete with some really nice LH slopers.

Sit start on the pedestal. Up via small edges

Start: Climbs the big corner below the roof in the centre of the cliff, then joins 'Cryptic Clue' for 2 bolts before heading diagonally, and spectacularly L out to the arête of the buttress. Best done in 2 pitches. Take 13 draws.

1. 25m (21) Climb easily up the face to the start of the very steep corner below the overhang. A terrific bit of climbing using chimney and bridging techniques up the corner. Step R at the roof to a double bolt belay on a small ledge.

2. 20m (23) Up the corner on the RHS of the main roof to a stance below another overhang. Head L and overcome the blank hanging slab by a huge reach to a jug (crux). Continue up the L-trending overlap towards the arête, and when the holds run out, turn the small roof of the overlap with a long reach from underclings to a jug over the roof. Finish up the arête. Belay to single FH and glue-in bolt about 3m to L. Descend by abseil from the glue-in anchors to the L and rig slings over the edge.

Double ropes necessary.

Starts in a shallow groove about 5m R of the previous route. Some thought provoking and very nice climbing up the groove and face leads to a cruxy section going through the overlaps about a third of the way up, to gain a small ledge. There is a double bolt belay here for The Ruin Of The Cluan, but unnecessary for this route.

Very thin stemming up short corner on rock pinnacle directly opposite the amphitheatre.

About 50m further R of the descent gully amphitheatre is a bolted line up a neat face beside a large eucalypt. Follows a beautiful natural line of features up the centre of the face with some superb, sustained face climbing. An intense, crimpy start, then some nice moves on big holds leads to the crux between the 7th and 8th bolt. A powerful move to gain the stance below the hanging flake, then some funky layaways and heelhooking on the flake leads to a good rest. Easy up the face until a sting in the tail just below the anchors on some rounded laybacks with little for the feet. A classic.

Up the centre of the face starting 5m R of the previous route. Climb steeply on some big features to a juggy, runout conclusion. A superb route.

On the small pinnacle opposite Blue Suede Clues. Follow right trending groove to the top.

A 3 pitch, 85m climb, the only route which goes all the way to the top of the main wall. The first pitch is an exciting and unlikely traverse through the big roof, followed by a brilliant pitch of face climbing above the roof. The third pitch has two cruxy sections through a couple of small roofs with great moves. Take 17 draws.

1. 26m (21) The first pitch of Cluecified is a remarkable journey, featuring a long but well protected traverse in an intimidating position. Start up the easy groove in the centre of the main wall for 10m, before the long traverse left above the big roof to gain the left slanting ramp. The crux is moving left past an overhang with nothing for the feet and big overhangs underneath, in an intimidating position. This pitch would be an excellent 21 to try as a one pitch route. Rap anchors at belay. 11 bolts.

2. 17m (23) A superb face climb. 'Layback' up the steep flake off the belay, then traverse right to gain the weakness up the middle of the face. A sustained series of moves up the face with the crux just below the anchors. Belay on small ledge. 8 bolts.

3. 42m (23) Not a 3 star pitch like the first 2 pitches, but with some terrific and challenging moves nonetheless. Up the easy face just right of the belay (18) to the base of the small overhang. Surmount the roof strenuously to gain the hanging corner (crux) and continue up the line to the second roof. Bridge steeply to a position level with the second bolt in the roof, before traversing right onto the face (crux). Then straight up the wall to jugs, then back left to finish up the easy groove. Double bolt belay on the summit. 14 bolts.

Exact same as The Sunshine Way except with a stand start

Start om the right side bottom corner of the slab standing on the smaller boulder. Get your first foot on the broken flake edge and continue to the left side with small feet and crimpy holds untill the edge of the boulder where you can easliy shuffle up to the top left corner knob to finish the climb. Feet should stay on the face not over the left edge until the climb is complete.

Sitstart compression between left 2 aretes. Precise moves up and left to top-out

The slopping lip traverse sit start at the far left of the rail, traverse right to the end of the rail and press up through the steep corner feature (avoid using the block below the rail for feet) and top out.

Sit start in middle of wall with LH on low triangle, and RH high on good crimp. Skid past the ground, then up on crimps to top out.

Sit start on the low block feature, with low LH undercling and RH blocky jug. Go up into thumbercling/gaston and head right to high blocky gaston. Top out marginally spicy.

Lovely thin face climbing

Next one right.

Excellent thin face climbing with a very hard start.

To the right of Good Friday is a thin slabby seam (crux) leading to steep jug hauling up high. Some loose rock around the rooflet, but a great long route to the top of the crag.

Great face climb with lots of side pulls and poor feet. Finish at the level of the roof.

Another excellent route. Sustained face climbing leads to a cruxy move pulling through the small roof at the top of the cliff.

Short pumpy climb on the far right on slopers and side pulls.

Climbs Cazaly to the 3rd bolt, then launches right across the overhanging wall on big holds for another 4 bolts to anchor on Jugs 'R' Us.

Excellent climb on small crimps and slopers on the black face just left of the prominent crack.

Furthest route on the LHS

Climb the groove to a cruxy move at overhang.

Line of bolts just L of arete. Originally done as a mixed route. Fully retro-bolted '24

Superb overhanging corner to the right of arete. One of the best at Hillwood.

Thin face climbing up and through small roof on far right hand side. Note - a new route takes the LHV through the same roof