Routes in South East for selected grade

Climb the crux of Genital thrust into the crux of Bad habits.

Start very low on the far right of the boulder on big jug and low feet, bust out to the start of the V2 then finish. Fun but low.

Suck Ethics

Anaphalaxis

Play Lunch

Wasted Daze

Left hand on good sidepull. Starts left heads a little right then back left to top out.

Start on long rail and mantle with not great feet. Or crimp and highstep to victory.

Start at Tour de France, continue trending right on UBs to join Serial Driller. Extra UB has been added for 'high' traverse to chains, no need to clip second last bolt. And if confident, climbs well to clip the second UB as your 1st.

Start a few metres R of 'Totally Awesome'. Up right facing corner to overlap. Move slightly leftwards from top of overlap, then finish back right up final slab. 5 UBs to anchors.

Nice climbing. Start up right facing corner (shared with DITNO). Where DITNO moves right, continue straight up the line. Clips the same bolts as DITNO. No chain or lower-off, but easy to traverse 2m left or right to an adjacent route.

The left of the classic Parkyn trilogy offers 15m of strenuous and technical laybacks to reach a welcome rest. The intimidating bulge above can then be climbed to the left, directly, or to the right. Good luck.

A cop out to avoid the crux of The Way. But still good climbing.

Our Lord described himself as 'The Truth, The Way and The Life'. The Parkyn trilogy features 'The Truth, The Way, and The Light'. It is unclear if Roger has just got the quote wrong, or if he is proclaiming himself as our new saviour. Either way, this punchy number will raise your spirits.

Sustained pitch with some excellent moves.

2m R of '19 Shades of Grey.' Through the roofs. Head left under the roof and crank up the arete, to skip the broken hold crux

A direct variant to Whatever. Start as for that route, but after the roof continue direct staying left of the arete, eventually finishing up the last couple of bolts of Whatever.

The second pitch is a Pipes classic. Steep, featured, and pumpy.

1. 15m (18) 5 bolts. Follow U bolts to large sloping ledge and DBB. Likely a sandbag at 18, but interesting and well bolted.

2. 15m (22) 7 bolts. The main attraction. Follow the black streak and gently overhanging arete. Pumpy, safe, and technically interesting.

There is a lower-off at the top of the 2nd pitch. With a 60m rope and care, the belayer can lower the climber to the ground, then abseil to the ground using the climber as a counterweight.

A sustained route following the prominent corners on the north side of the first buttress, clearly visible from the Organ Pipes Track.

Climb with difficulty into a shallow scoop using insecure small wires for protection (a peg was used here originally). Continue through a bulge using layaway holds to one more queasy experience, a sloping jug. Continue up to belay at a ledge.

Start approximately 5m left of Wootang. Climb the thin crack line just right of the arête, protected by small to mid-sized cams (some people think these small cams are quite dodgy), then continue up the shallow corner above past 3 FH to a DBB at the ledge. A. Williams, early 2005.

Black streaked buttress, up and left from Slow Combustion. Awesomly sustained and balancy face climbing, to a DBB. Well protected if you have doubles of micro cams.

second pitch alternative to Blue Meridian or Fine Time

Precarious and pumpy climbing. Start on the ledge as for Skyfall (can be accessed via the short bolted wall, or by scrambling up the vegetated corner to gain right side of ledge). Climb several metres right of Skyfall, blasting up up the seam and through the large roof passing the DBB of Solace to the rest ledge. From the ledge, clip the bolt up and left on the hanging arete, then commit to moving up and left (crux) above the void. Balance up arete to a DBB

as for QoS; stop at DBB after roof

The small buttress to the left of the Linda chimney, capped by overhangs. Belay at far left end of Battlecruiser Ledge. Step left across Linda chimney and follow 6 U bolts up wall and blind corner capped by overhangs to double U belay on small ledge above.

The arete left of Battle Cruiser.

1. 28m 20 Start at small ledge 4m left of Battle Cruiser. Step left and follow thin groove with small gear just right of arete to Battle Cruiser belay.

2. 46m 22 Step around left side of arete and follow thin cracks to the top.

The thin line between Faust and Twice, up the thin seam through two overlaps. Looks bold.

The line up the face and arête between Faust and Spartan Ethics. There is a thin and balancy crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and another tricky move at the roof, the rest is about 20.

The line of FH right of Heat. Nice, pumpy climbing on some sharp rock.

The line of bolts 5m left of Rememberance and Roast Chicken

MIxed route left of Kacktus. Climb loose chimney on natural gear until top of pinnacle is reached. Step onto the right wall and follow fully bolted wall to ledge and DBB. There is a short extention to a second DBB.

Classy face climbing on the lowest tier of Circus Wall. Can be accessed by climbing the first 3 pitches of Heat and then scrambling across scrubby ledge.

Contentious, original done as a trad route the unknowingly bolted a week later. Climbs the line left of the bolts, it is possible to go right of the bolt at the roof at grade 23.

Climb the wall left of "Bert's Fear", starting at the base of the "Bert's Fear" chimney. There is thin crux at the second U and then a pumpy hike to the top (all sport).

Sporty route between CSTS and P. Can be done as a second pitch to P, or a single pitch starting as for CSTS and using the DBB for that route to descend. Bring a light rack for the start and the finish

1. 33m 23 Follow Us up nose and arete to ledge

2. 15m 23 Continue up arete to another ledge

More fine dolerite face climbing 15m right of Dark Nebula

A nice line up the crack and arête just L of Where Eagles Dare Not.

Probably best to approach from above to avoid the fist pitch.

1. 15m 18 Climb pitch one of Where Eagles Dare Not, belaying at first obvious ledge.

2. 35m 22 Move L to the arête and ascend the discontinuous cracks just L of the arête. Step down and L onto the face and climb face and cracks to the top.

A steep, sustained and challenging crack that varies from a small seam to hand width, including v-grooves and a short chimney. Seeps longer than most climbs in the area. Climb the wall and thin seam to a thin corner, passing the bulge with finger jams. Continue up the thin-hands v-groove to pass another bulge at half height. Continue jamming up the second v-groove (thin seam) and short chimney above, then pull around a huge overhanging flake to a stance at the Hakea tree near the top. Either ascend your fixed rope for ~8m (recommended approach), climb awkwardly past the tree, or abseil-off the tree back to the ledge where you can abseil from bushes or down climb (grade 14) back to the base of Cossack column. The crack has been thoroughly cleaned as of Jan 2023, which should keep it tidy from moss for the coming years.

Great series of sustained moves up the short bolted arete to DBB.

Mixed Route

The arête right of CEMC. The first section can be climbed on either side of the arête, leading to a good rest before the steep finish. The crux is passing the last bolt.

Up Face It to traverse. plug in a couple of hand size cams in break and continue up weird shallow groove.

The lightly vegetated, thin flared crack 3m right of the vegetated corner of Quarryman. Climb the crack and the shallow corner above.

A #4 Camalot make the top out more palpable.

Thin crack finishing at one (rusty) bolt.

The cleaned, well-protected crack just right of Hurricane. Desperate, sustained and technical flared finger/hand jamming leads to sustained bridging and jamming to the top from about halfway. Crux at the first bulge around 8m. A good test-piece before tackling Albatross at Lowdina.

The original free version. Starts up the off-width on the left before stepping right into the finger crack. Finishes around on the left at the end in an easy corner.

The small little roof crack on the yellow dot path to new world. Perfect hand crack with crux pulling the lip.

SDS - LH line up spaced jugs to top out

SDS. Sitstart off the block, and climb the thin face to the left of the overhanging crack

Precise climbing up a 90 degree arete at the edge of the ampitheatre. Landing is a steep slope, so bring a couple of pads and a spotter shaped like a bowling pin. From the base of Atlantis, face the city. Walk forward and slightly right, till at the edge of the ampitheatre. Either rap in (gear in crack at back of block) or throw down pads and scramble in.

SDS. Thin shallow crack in middle of face of boulder right at top of hill. Only use crack

Sitstart on rail then straight up on slopes

Sit start on jugs to top out

Sit start on flake as for Fatman but move straight up. Don't back of block on right and mantle via Fatman block

Sit start

Sit/hang start on good crimp

Sit start. Work up and around the diving platform.

Sit start, up the face from low left hand side pull and foot very low on small chip.