Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fruehauf | |||||
22 | ★★ Dazed and Confused
| 17m, 5 | |||
22 | ★ General Benefit
| 15m, 4 | |||
23 | ★ Bad Habits
| 18m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Genital habits
Climb the crux of Genital thrust into the crux of Bad habits. | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Genital Thrust
| 15m | |||
V3 | Big Mutha Trucker
Start very low on the far right of the boulder on big jug and low feet, bust out to the start of the V2 then finish. Fun but low. | 3m | |||
V3 | SE
Suck Ethics | ||||
V3 | ★★ A
Anaphalaxis | 3m | |||
V3 | PL
Play Lunch | ||||
V3 | WD
Wasted Daze | ||||
Waterworks Pipeline Boulders | |||||
V3 | ★ Hail to the Thief (SDS)
Left hand on good sidepull. Starts left heads a little right then back left to top out. FA: 2018 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Hail What (SDS)
FA: 2018 | ||||
V3 | ★ Nice for What
Start on long rail and mantle with not great feet. Or crimp and highstep to victory. FA: 2018 | 4m | |||
Waterworks Quarry | |||||
22 | ★★ Driller Direct
Start at Tour de France, continue trending right on UBs to join Serial Driller. Extra UB has been added for 'high' traverse to chains, no need to clip second last bolt. And if confident, climbs well to clip the second UB as your 1st. FA: Tim Meech, Dec 2017 | 20m, 9 | |||
23 | ★ Sequels of the Light
Start a few metres R of 'Totally Awesome'. Up right facing corner to overlap. Move slightly leftwards from top of overlap, then finish back right up final slab. 5 UBs to anchors. FA: Evan Peacock, 1992 | 10m, 5 | |||
23 | ★ Urban Renewal
Nice climbing. Start up right facing corner (shared with DITNO). Where DITNO moves right, continue straight up the line. Clips the same bolts as DITNO. No chain or lower-off, but easy to traverse 2m left or right to an adjacent route. FA: Evan Peacock, 1992 | 10m, 5 | |||
Proctor's Road Quarry Lower Tier Back Wall | |||||
22 | Dilandia
| 22m | |||
23 | ★★ Natural High
| 30m | |||
23 | Passover
| 35m | |||
23 | ★ Bent Needles and Straight Spoons
| 15m | |||
23 | Training for Austin
| 23m | |||
Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Broken Buttress | |||||
23 | ★★ Assault Course
| ||||
22 | ★★ The Truth
The left of the classic Parkyn trilogy offers 15m of strenuous and technical laybacks to reach a welcome rest. The intimidating bulge above can then be climbed to the left, directly, or to the right. Good luck. FA: Roger Parkyn | 20m | |||
23 | ★ No Way
A cop out to avoid the crux of The Way. But still good climbing. | ||||
23 | ★ The Light
Our Lord described himself as 'The Truth, The Way and The Life'. The Parkyn trilogy features 'The Truth, The Way, and The Light'. It is unclear if Roger has just got the quote wrong, or if he is proclaiming himself as our new saviour. Either way, this punchy number will raise your spirits. FA: Roger Parkyn | 15m | |||
22 | ★ The Good, The Excellent and The Ugly
FA: D. Stephenson & N. Deka, 1988 | 30m | |||
Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes University Buttress | |||||
22 | ★★ Mountain Rocket
Sustained pitch with some excellent moves. FA: Dave H Jon N, 2017 | 25m, 13 | |||
22 | ★ Blind Vision
FA: R Parkyn, Mar 2015 | 47m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★ Blank Generation
| 60m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ Sparkle
2m R of '19 Shades of Grey.' Through the roofs. Head left under the roof and crank up the arete, to skip the broken hold crux FA: T. McKenny, O. Gervasoni & D. Stephenson | 10m, 5 | |||
Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Bulging Buttress | |||||
22 | ★★★ (S.S.S.S.I.) Seriously Searching for Sanity but Suiciding Instead
| 32m | |||
22 | ★★★ Beaten and Abused
FA: D. Stephenson, N. Deka & P. Steane, 1989 | 40m | |||
22 | ★★ Crazed and Confused
FA: N. Deka, D. Stephenson & Feb 1989, 1989 | 40m | |||
23 | ★ What's Left
A direct variant to Whatever. Start as for that route, but after the roof continue direct staying left of the arete, eventually finishing up the last couple of bolts of Whatever. | ||||
22 | ★★★ Heat Pump
The second pitch is a Pipes classic. Steep, featured, and pumpy.
There is a lower-off at the top of the 2nd pitch. With a 60m rope and care, the belayer can lower the climber to the ground, then abseil to the ground using the climber as a counterweight. | 30m, 2, 12 | |||
22 | ★★ Equipoise
| 30m, 1 | |||
Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Teardrop Gully | |||||
22 | ★★ Into the Fire
A sustained route following the prominent corners on the north side of the first buttress, clearly visible from the Organ Pipes Track. Climb with difficulty into a shallow scoop using insecure small wires for protection (a peg was used here originally). Continue through a bulge using layaway holds to one more queasy experience, a sloping jug. Continue up to belay at a ledge. FA: Simon Parsons & Kim Bischoff, 1981 | 30m | |||
23 | ★ Cornered
Start approximately 5m left of Wootang. Climb the thin crack line just right of the arête, protected by small to mid-sized cams (some people think these small cams are quite dodgy), then continue up the shallow corner above past 3 FH to a DBB at the ledge. A. Williams, early 2005. FFA: A. Williams, 2005 | 20m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Sunk by a pink torpedo
| 18m | |||
Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Great Tier | |||||
22 | ★★ Clouds of Obsession
Black streaked buttress, up and left from Slow Combustion. Awesomly sustained and balancy face climbing, to a DBB. Well protected if you have doubles of micro cams. | 30m | |||
23 | Prime Meridian
second pitch alternative to Blue Meridian or Fine Time | 45m | |||
23 | ★ Quantum of Solace
Precarious and pumpy climbing. Start on the ledge as for Skyfall (can be accessed via the short bolted wall, or by scrambling up the vegetated corner to gain right side of ledge). Climb several metres right of Skyfall, blasting up up the seam and through the large roof passing the DBB of Solace to the rest ledge. From the ledge, clip the bolt up and left on the hanging arete, then commit to moving up and left (crux) above the void. Balance up arete to a DBB FA: O Gervasoni & T McKenny, 2013 | 32m, 16 | |||
22 | ★ Solace
as for QoS; stop at DBB after roof | 20m, 14 | |||
Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Central Buttress | |||||
22 | ★ Five Easy Pieces
The small buttress to the left of the Linda chimney, capped by overhangs. Belay at far left end of Battlecruiser Ledge. Step left across Linda chimney and follow 6 U bolts up wall and blind corner capped by overhangs to double U belay on small ledge above. FA: Dave Stephenson & Neale Smith, 23 Apr 2019 | 15m, 6 | |||
22 | ★★ Starship Trooper
The arete left of Battle Cruiser.
| 74m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★ Major Tom
| 28m | |||
23 | Bumps and Angels
The thin line between Faust and Twice, up the thin seam through two overlaps. Looks bold. | 80m, 2 | |||
22 | ★ Cognitive Dissonance
The line up the face and arête between Faust and Spartan Ethics. There is a thin and balancy crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and another tricky move at the roof, the rest is about 20. FA: J. Nermut, D. Humphries & Jan 2015., Jan 2015 | 28m, 12 | |||
22 | ★★ Wedgetail
The line of FH right of Heat. Nice, pumpy climbing on some sharp rock. FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2014 | 28m, 13 | |||
23 | ★★ Peregrine
The line of bolts 5m left of Rememberance and Roast Chicken | 48m, 2 | |||
22 | ★ Pugnacious
| ||||
23 | ★★ Oopsy Daisy
MIxed route left of Kacktus. Climb loose chimney on natural gear until top of pinnacle is reached. Step onto the right wall and follow fully bolted wall to ledge and DBB. There is a short extention to a second DBB. | 40m, 9 | |||
23 | ★★ Clown Face
Classy face climbing on the lowest tier of Circus Wall. Can be accessed by climbing the first 3 pitches of Heat and then scrambling across scrubby ledge. | 20m, 9 | |||
Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | |||||
22 | ★★ Nefarious
| 25m, 12 | |||
22 | ★★ Berts Butter Menthol
Contentious, original done as a trad route the unknowingly bolted a week later. Climbs the line left of the bolts, it is possible to go right of the bolt at the roof at grade 23. Climb the wall left of "Bert's Fear", starting at the base of the "Bert's Fear" chimney. There is thin crux at the second U and then a pumpy hike to the top (all sport). FFA: Roger Parkyn & Owen Gervasoni, 2013 | 30m | |||
22 | ★ Alex's Thing
Sporty route between CSTS and P. Can be done as a second pitch to P, or a single pitch starting as for CSTS and using the DBB for that route to descend. Bring a light rack for the start and the finish FA: A Wilson, 2004 | 40m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ The Holy Road
| 25m | |||
Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes The Columns | |||||
23 | Armchair Ethics
| 35m | |||
23 | ★★ Cruel But Fair
| 25m | |||
23 | ★★★ Close to the Sun
| 48m, 2, 23 | |||
23 | ★★ Plymouth Satellite
More fine dolerite face climbing 15m right of Dark Nebula | 23m, 11 | |||
23 | ★★★ Ultrasound
| 35m | |||
23 | ★ Face What You Fear
| 20m | |||
22 | ★ Fear Inoculum
| 30m | |||
23 | ★★ Strange Angels
| 40m, 16 | |||
22 | ★★★ Killer Canary
A nice line up the crack and arête just L of Where Eagles Dare Not. Probably best to approach from above to avoid the fist pitch.
FA: S. Parsons, 1982 | 50m | |||
23 | ★★★ Hakea
A steep, sustained and challenging crack that varies from a small seam to hand width, including v-grooves and a short chimney. Seeps longer than most climbs in the area. Climb the wall and thin seam to a thin corner, passing the bulge with finger jams. Continue up the thin-hands v-groove to pass another bulge at half height. Continue jamming up the second v-groove (thin seam) and short chimney above, then pull around a huge overhanging flake to a stance at the Hakea tree near the top. Either ascend your fixed rope for ~8m (recommended approach), climb awkwardly past the tree, or abseil-off the tree back to the ledge where you can abseil from bushes or down climb (grade 14) back to the base of Cossack column. The crack has been thoroughly cleaned as of Jan 2023, which should keep it tidy from moss for the coming years. | 40m | |||
Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress | |||||
23 | ★★ Side Saddling Cheescake
Great series of sustained moves up the short bolted arete to DBB. | 12m, 5 | |||
23 | Sorrow
| ||||
23 | Great Pets
| 18m | |||
22 | ★ Excellence
| 35m | |||
22 | ★★ Boys Games
| 30m, 9 | |||
22 | ★ Climbing Edge Memorial Climb
Mixed Route | 36m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Osteomen
The arête right of CEMC. The first section can be climbed on either side of the arête, leading to a good rest before the steep finish. The crux is passing the last bolt. FA: D. Stephenson, S. Scott & T. McKenny, May 2018 | 20m, 10 | |||
Mount Wellington Lost World Area Lost World | |||||
22 | ★ CC's
| 20m | |||
22 | ★★ Face It (Direct)
Up Face It to traverse. plug in a couple of hand size cams in break and continue up weird shallow groove. FA: Alex Hartshorne, Jan 2019 | ||||
23 | ★★ Play Dirty
The lightly vegetated, thin flared crack 3m right of the vegetated corner of Quarryman. Climb the crack and the shallow corner above. A #4 Camalot make the top out more palpable. FA: G. Child & K. Carrigan, 1978 | ||||
22 | The Space Of Disse
Thin crack finishing at one (rusty) bolt. | 10m | |||
23 | ★★ Hejira
| 30m | |||
22 | ★★★ Savage Journey
FA: Henry Barber | 30m | |||
22 | ★★ Cruise Air
FA: P. Bigg & S. Parsons | 30m | |||
23 | Naked Flame
| 18m | |||
23 | ★★ Hufflepuff
The cleaned, well-protected crack just right of Hurricane. Desperate, sustained and technical flared finger/hand jamming leads to sustained bridging and jamming to the top from about halfway. Crux at the first bulge around 8m. A good test-piece before tackling Albatross at Lowdina. FA: Christoph Speer & Martin Brown, Feb 2023 | 20m | |||
23 | ★★★ Rosy Pink Cadillac
The original free version. Starts up the off-width on the left before stepping right into the finger crack. Finishes around on the left at the end in an easy corner. FFA: Mike Law, 1978 | 20m | |||
Mount Wellington Lost World Area New World | |||||
22 | ★★★ Stigmata
The small little roof crack on the yellow dot path to new world. Perfect hand crack with crux pulling the lip. | 5m | |||
23 | ★★ Toxastoma Par Excellence
| 15m, 4 | |||
Mount Wellington Lost World Area Micro World | |||||
22 | ★ Collar Cool
| 8m, 3 | |||
Mount Wellington Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Lost World Boulders Res Gestae Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ Tools
SDS - LH line up spaced jugs to top out | ||||
Mount Wellington Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Lost World Boulders The Pinnacles | |||||
V3/4 | V3/4
SDS. Sitstart off the block, and climb the thin face to the left of the overhanging crack | ||||
Mount Wellington Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Lost World Boulders Lost World Ampitheatre Boulders | |||||
V3 | ★★ The Crowd-Pleaser's Guide to a Slippery Death
Precise climbing up a 90 degree arete at the edge of the ampitheatre. Landing is a steep slope, so bring a couple of pads and a spotter shaped like a bowling pin. From the base of Atlantis, face the city. Walk forward and slightly right, till at the edge of the ampitheatre. Either rap in (gear in crack at back of block) or throw down pads and scramble in. FA: Ewan Barry, 15 Jan 2023 | 3m | |||
Mount Wellington Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Western Front Shell Shock | |||||
V3 | ★ Shell Shock
SDS. Thin shallow crack in middle of face of boulder right at top of hill. Only use crack | ||||
Mount Wellington Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Western Front Passchendale | |||||
V3 | The Dab Prince
FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2018 | 3m | |||
Mount Wellington Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Western Front Skinless | |||||
V3 | ★ V3
Sitstart on rail then straight up on slopes | ||||
Mount Wellington Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Western Front Verdun Area | |||||
V3 | ★★ Verdun
| 5m | |||
Mount Wellington Summit Boulders Fence area | |||||
V3 | ★ Campus
Sit start on jugs to top out FA: Mike Hitchcock, 10 Feb 2019 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Fatman and Robin
Sit start on flake as for Fatman but move straight up. Don't back of block on right and mantle via Fatman block FA: Tommy Krauss, 2014 | 3m | |||
V3 | V3
Sit start FA: Tommy Krauss, 2019 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ V3 a
Sit/hang start on good crimp FA: Tommy Krauss, 10 Feb 2019 | 3m | |||
V2/3 | V2/3
Sit start. Work up and around the diving platform. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 10 Feb 2019 | 3m | |||
V3 | V5 a
Sit start, up the face from low left hand side pull and foot very low on small chip. FA: Tommy Krauss, 10 Feb 2019 | 4m |