Routes in North West

Crack to the R of corner. A good beginners climb with excellent natural pro.

Stand start. Straight up the centre of the face.

About 70m north of the lookout (right as you face the gorge), rap to the base of the cliff. The line is obvious as the left hand line of a big tram line of cracks.

1. 55m (22) Thin hand jamming and finger locking to ledge on left.

2. 30m (18) Up short corner to next ledge, then up twin crack with steep offwidth on left and finger crack on right.

Start on the furtherest right edge of the the buttress. Climb steeply at the start and stay on the left face of the arete upto the corner and then face above.

Starting in the chasm, straight up the crack.

The clean corner crack

Obvious gully to the left of Grandma Baz. Easy down scramble.

Up the easy face.

On the great steep boulder just below the sport routes. Only climbable at low tide. Start matched on the big rail, up to the arete and top out. Nice moves on jugs the whole way.

The crack/chimney leading to a roof with a crack/chimney through it. Out roof up wall to traverse to next crack. Up to top. pitches (18), (20), (18). Varied leads.

1. Traverse L on gentle ramp to belay

2. Traverse R up crack/ramp, round corner to belay (2nd large poo stain and slings)

3. Up through roof on L then directly to easy territory. Slings to rap (30m) are ~5m to R.

A variant of Superfly, follow the original then go L through roof instead of direct.

Left arete.

Start low and left with right hand on a bad sloper in the roof. Move up and right, avoiding the jugs on the centre of the face, finish up the right side of the face.

Ocean facing groove, left of left arete

First obvious line, the clean hand crack

Stand start

Sit start, up through the black scoop.

Easy hand crack on orange topped boulder

To get full value on this climb start in the hole at low tide. Being two boulders stacked on top of each other this feels more like bouldering. With that and the other boulders around you a fall while clipping at any point wouldn't be nice. Still some loose rock at the top.

Start in Chasm, Straight up the crimps on the face to slab.

Well protected steep slab.

Easy line between the two corners

Traverse the boulder starting on the right, staying about mid height.

Hang start with poor feet. Left hand in vertical slot and right hand on lowest pinch.

40 m West of the lookout, under the light house, in low swell. 3 sets of u bolts above. Suitable for toproping, most routes trad protectable. Described left to right, grade depends on eliminates.

On the great steep boulder just below the sport routes. Only climbable at low tide. Start low on small holds, heel hook and straight up through side pulls.

Starts up Superfly then pointlessly traverses off left instead of finishing up the excellent original, staying about 1m below the roof.

On the backside past left arete.

The wide chimney is cleaner and better than it looks

Start with hands in the break, feet on the slopey overhang. Rock over, hug the block to the pinnacle. Don't fall.

So far this route has been climbed by staying left of the bolts at the start for some fun 3D climbing between the two boulders. Once towards the top of the left boulder, step right and go up the face, don't top out. It's a bit contrived but quite fun.

Sit start variant

Crack on the left of the face

The next corner

Start on the lowest edges on the left, then up.

Sit start at the arete, up to the right.

The left hand corner offwidth

On the great steep boulder just below the sport routes. Only climbable at low tide. Start right hand on a side pull and left on perfect square sloper and go straight up.

SDS start in the corner below Winking Sausage, up the arte and face to finish under the first bolt. For some added fun wear a harness and top out the climb.

The classic of the crag. Up the obvious crack and direct through the roof on good holds and excellent protection.

Middle of face on wall facing “the table”. Eliminate the big hold for more challenge

Slanting crack to ledge then up wall. Walk back to DBB

Overhanging corner on the ocean side of Ruby Right boulder. Sit start in the bottom of the abyss, lay back up the corner while avoiding boulders below and behind.

Standing start between two small boulders. Left hand in jug, jump to juggy rail, traverse right till the rail ends, up and over. Fun campus traverse or feet available.

To the right of the fractured small corner, then up next tier to lookout

It's a shame this face doesn't have a nice flat landing as it would be a great boulder problem at the current height. Or if it was twice as long it would be great sport route. Head straight up past the bolts for a few very thin and quite technical moves.

Mostly bolted but trad gear needed on some pitches.

1. 25m (17) Fully bolted

2. 35m (22)

3. 30m (18)

4. 30m (26) Fully bolted. Can pull on the crux bolt and do this pitch at 23 A0.

5. 15m (13)

Start up Vader then traverse right across slab to poorly protected corner and up

Up the featured wall

Climbs steeply up arete on the RH side of the Keyhole with excellent natural protection.

Start low then move right to obvious edge. Then move left and up via big pockets.

Sit start and up the arete.

Groove to left of first set of U bolt anchors