Routes as trad in The You Yangs

Steep and powerful. Start on the boulders R of Orpheus and follow the 3 FHs up and L wards to the slopey horizontal. Undercling L to the flake and finish up Chuck Solids. Rebolted July 2022.

Steep and intense. Start 1m R of the base of the chimney (same as for The Razors Edge) Hard up to the 1st RB, and then slightly L past a 2nd RB before finishing up the top crack. Rebolted July 2022

The prominent left-trending crack in the middle of the block. Up to horizontal and onwards through offwidth crack in cap-block.

The slick and rounded crack with a very thin start.

Rebolted 2012

Right hand arete of main wall. Bouldery start on edges, up to hanging flake. 1 carrot for belay above on slab.

Climbs really well for an overhanging offwidth. Obviously problem a few metres downhill from Aversion Therapy remained unclimbed until 2021? Isn't actually that hard for the grade, but there are many ways to make it so. #6 cam likely essential gear.

Face left of Ticket Collector. 1 FH to break, past large flake and 2nd FH. DBB.

3 FHs. Left of The Chuchu. From the second bolt, powerful span into the crack to the right and up this. Optional wires for the top section and belay.

Arete left of Adam past BR and FH to horizontal break, exiting right.

Short, but nice climbing. 1 BR up high.

Excellent, sustained and steep for the You Yangs. Has been re-bolted with 2 FH. 2 carrot bolts on top as anchor and easy walk off to the left.

The best route here. After the break go straight up, then veer right to the big mushroom jug.

Just R of Razor's Edge (left side of arete; no gear) to roof crack, finish up past 2 x RBs on TRE.

About 100m along the Great Circle Drive directly opposite gate in fence. Left trending diagonal crack line 10 m from the road uphill on right. May have been done before very obvious line.Contention about length FRA

Leftwards trending finger crack on steep, south face of pinnacle, approx 30 left of Eastern Walking Track (facing north), where Track turns from east-west to north-south, ~200m from Saddle car park area.

An absorbing with sustained climbing on tiny edges. Start off small boulders on right hand arete of Alex in Disneyland Slab. Up and slightly leftwards past a BR and FH.

Opposite side of flake as No Woman, No Cry. Overhanging v-chimney. Finish up short wall.

Pocketed crack.

Classic of the area. Left to right diagonal crack which can be seen all the way from the road. Looks a piece of cake from below, but actually some pumpy crack climbing. No anchor on top so you need to get your belayer to anchor the rope to a tree on the other side of the block.

3m right of Numb Tips 1FH follow faint seam up to bolt and stance on arete. Then diagonally right to break(cam) over small rooflet to stance on large flake, up.

Seam with one bolt at left end of main face.

Start as for Wicked Wanda up the short flake corner and step R onto the slab to reach the start of the WW flake. Stay L here directly up the slab.

Climb the short crack (small cam) 4m R of Blue Skies from Grey and then the face (FH) to the undercling flake/overlap (Medium/Large Cam) Over this stepping slightly R past a FH and straight up the thin face past another FH. Rebolted May 2021 with the permission of the FA.

Climb the face 2m R of Blue Skies from Grey passing 2FHs to the undercling flake/overlap (Medium/Large Cam) Step R over this then move slightly L and straight up the face/arete L of the 2FHs. Rebolted May 2021 with the permission of the FA.

Arete on south western corner of block. No bolts.

3m left of POS take the face past BR to horizontal crack. Plug in an RP and continue upwards to second BR and summit DRBB.

Approximately 30m around to the right of the Emperor's New Rope face is a small gully. Lauren takes right trending finger crack midway up gully on right hand wall.

Start as for Slip Slop Slap to its first BR , Then step R and up to a BR-(may need a wire) and straight up to jugs.

Up thin crack at left end of face, step right and up slab past 3 bolts.

From the back of Gravel Pit Tor a large block can be seen about 50m to the East.

Just R of the arete facing Gravel Pit Tor is a very thin crack. Follow this up the face.

A fun direct finish to Blue Skys from Grey. May have been toproped previously - almost a sport route. 1 x Med/Large Cam required for the break.

Climb Blue Sky’s from Grey and then continue directly over the overlap (medium cams) via a thin move or two and straight up the top wall past 2FHs.

Ridiculously run out to the first bolt. If you’re sane, you can protect the lower moves by placing trad protection in the crack of Royal Auto.

1. Starts as for "Short Vertical Crack" (or variant up "Urinal Wall Sport Traverse"-Which is safer!) and then traverses left to the first bolt of "Pissing on a Friend". Complete first pitch as for "Urinal Wall Sport Traverse"

2. Starts off ledge at "Dunny Door". Climbs diagonally left and up to a placement in the flake on "The Overflow" and then on "Lizard's Lair". Continue to bolts on "Busting for Relief" and "Harpic". More placements and then to the bolt of "Twyford Adamant". Finish up "Reversing Santa". Flake, Trad Belay.

5mts left of Fig Lleaf, up the black water-streak past 2 spaced carrot bolts, then head left into the groove to finish up the short chimney.

Obvious finger crack in the middle of the wall right on the side of the walking track.

3 m R of Kangaroo Court. Start on boulder, up past BR, R to arete then up Gallows Humour. 2 BR

Starts left of Blood on the Tracks. Straight up face passing ring bolt and direct to top next to arete.

Corner crack in middle of block. The guide gives it a star.

Seam 10m up and L of Night Moves to ramp, then L. BR.

Off boulder 2m R of RBYE, then up to BR.

Left arete passing 2 BR.

3m right of the Wattle. Steep slab past 2 BR

Best looking line here. Shallow water runnel with 2 BR

Takes a small seam 2m Left of The Greyline Bus 2BR and run out at the top

Short left leaning crack on the right side of the First Tramway Boulder. Eases after the start.

Major line in the middle of the crag. Difficult hand crack and flake.

The short and hard finger crack directly opposite Broken Dreams

This climb has been downgraded from 19 to 16 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

Midway tween Pissing on a Friend and Around the Bend. Up past BR to cams in centre of the overlap flake.

Trad - of the no gear variety! Scramble further up the Lauren gully to a small open area, continuing straight ahead (eastwards) to the NARN block. NARN is the right hand arete.

Up crack in south face to break, then up onto steep slab past BR to top. DBB

Seam to Right of Tarred and Feathered. Wires and 1BR. Belay from blocks 10 m behind top.

Corner just L of The Slot Machine.

On the adjoining boulder 8m R of SN. Obvious finger crack starting at 2.5m

Off block 4m R of KF to R leading crack.

One carrot bolt in the middle of the face. Not really any gear at the top.

Chimney/chasm 4m R of RBYE, Step across at top to finish up slab.

Vertical crack. BB

Right side of face and arete. 1 BR

Just left of the Wattle to BR, tiny overlap and 2nd BR

Uphill left side of the Third Tramway Boulder. Short corner to BR and slab above DBB

30m uphill from left end of Cressy Gully Walls is a small block. Obvious gnarly R leading crack line. Hard for the grade.

Good link-up of Merry Go Round and Torn Tips; getting the best bit of both routes.

The obvious corner crack with a small ledge at half height and flake at the top. Great crack climbing of various sized jams. Gear anchor.

Up offwidth until it goes skinny and cruise to the top. The start is the crux. Original ascent says 17, but its more like a hard 18 or easy 19.

Start on the R side of the arete 3-4m R of The Shining. Up the arete and slightly R on the slab and up to the break where the dyke is. Traverse R and finish up Asylum for the Insane.

1m left of Opossum. 1st ascent Steve Monks Solo.

Left hand line of Alex in Disneyland Slab. Up and slightly right on thin edges past carrot. Carrot has a large head and many bolt-plates may not fit.

Left leaning crack.

Start far last at bottom of crack, hand traverse all the way to the end of horizontal crack. Escapable towards the end. Must a have been climbed before, too obvious, right on the track not to have been. Will be a great highball boulder problem.

Move up past first bolt. Place RP and move to second bolt. Finish on welcoming horn.

1 BR

Tiny corner and thin crack just left of the arete.

1m right of Light Rail past BR and over horizontal

Wide crack middle of the Fourth Tramway Boulder

Seam 2m R of Pleading Guilty to BR and R onto slab. Finish up crack on right arete or overlap.

Upper block - Crack, corner from Pillar. Tree belay.

From 3 R of NU, Move R to vertical crack / groove. There is a direct version up layback crack, that doesn't appear to be described, which has a hard start and takes small cams (add about 2 grades).

Slab 2m R of Joy-Ride (2 BR's), then R of bulge (BR).

Up to BR and crack 4m R of Skunk Hour, BR, finsih directly up slab.

Often wet. Start below the hanging block 3m R of No Question. Take the short Corner up the L side of the block, then R along the flake to a thin L leading seam. Up this, the crux.

Quite a nice climb now with the addition of a fixed hanger down lower. Up the face on small edges in the pale water streak, past 2 Fixed Hangers. Finish up the jam crack. Double ring bolt belay at top.

Crimpy edges to start past 3 bolts, followed by easy ground through a jam crack.

Traverses the obvious horizontal across the right buttress starting from the top of the Silver Knight block.

Starts up "The Lazy Yak" until it joins "Lara". Out across wall past 2 BR's into "Megs's Misfortune". #2 BD Cam here then across wall past another 2 BR's then up to anchor. Large wires and BD cams to #2, or equivalent.