Routes in Mt Stuart for selected grade

Follow the obvious, well-protected dihedral for a tree belay. A must do for the crag.

Endure the first 5m of poor quality climbing for a well-protected crack with easy, flowing moves.

Start 3m R of STL, up the small crack corner to the ledge then a pumpy layback on a large loose looking block to the 2nd ledge. Run it out up the arete on the R.

Climb the crack that curves around to the R to a nice ledge. Then follow the crack straight up. Watch out for Staghorns at the top when exiting.

Hand and fist crack at far L end of ledge atop AB. Crack till it ends then traverse 2m L to continue with the 2nd pitch of SL.

Start at the arete a few metres R of SP. Climb the arete past a few FHs to reach the SP belay chains.

Starts at SP belay chains. Step across the void and continue R to the chains of DB.

The crack opposite YLINYLI to ledge then L and up crack.

6m R of TGE. Follow the obvious crack leaning L to the ledge. Traverse 2m L up the crack to another ledge. Up the large crack above. Solid for the grade.

Straight up into the Martin traverse and up past the bolts. DBB. (originally natural anchor from boulders and chockstone).

Up the L side of the vague arete, L before the fixed hanger to ZZ. Finish up ZZ, take care with the gear.

A test piece 16 and a serious lead for the grade. Starts at the black stepped face 4m R of "Under The Cling". Climb up this black wall with growing concern (bring tiny wires or RP's) to welcome ledge (good gear). Bridge and claw your way up the technical V-corner behind, being mindful of the finger locks.

Starts 1m right of "Elle" follow weakness in rock to finish (NO PRO)

On the right face from looking at the blank slab close to arete. 3 bolts and anchor.

Could be pretty evil. Rik says "not a classic by any stretch of the imagination". 45m directly below Happy Wanderer. To access, rap down in front of Avalon as for Jack's Beanstalk. Once down, go to LH side of the blank face to grassy crack. Follow crack until it almost intersects a LH diagonal crack. Traverse R and continue up this crack until gear fades. Traverse L, then R across exposed face to good gear, then up, hunting for gear as you go. Take lots of nuts and RP's.

Starting with a dyno 1m L of the R end of the wall then follow small ledges tending left.

The next corner around R from CT.

A nice shady corner defining the deepest part of the re-entrant R of Colorado Wall. The top is located approximately 15m R of the top of Siddhartha, and is marked by an overhanging shelter and a decent tree for belay. The flake near the top appears to be attached only at the bottom, and seems like it should come off when hung on. Thus, it should be approached with caution, particularly after the wet season.

"Deliverance" P5 Variant

5a) 26m 16 Up, then veer L to sickle crack. Crack to the ledge.

30m L of where the ridge joins the main cliff is a shallow R-facing corner below a clean orange face and two roofs. Corner to thin crack, then up this to small ledge up the corner for body length to large ledge and DBB on the right side in terrible and not very obvious position can be hidden by grass. Take lots of RP's!

It had to be climbed! One for those who like to grovel up old school chimneys, you know who you are.. Take great care with the huge precariously balanced orange shield. Cams up to #5. Access via protected scramble L of Barbarian.

An excellent crag warm up and beginner climb, using the fig tree at the start is part of the delight!