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Routes in Frederick Peak for selected grade

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Showing all 11 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Juicy Buttress Afternoon Wall
16 Banana Bender

Starting at the right hand side of Afternoon Wall at left leaning crack (initialized). Layback left along the crack to the alcove then back right via the steep, thuggy hand crack. Take the steep corner of the left to reach ledge and chains. Alternatively follow the easier crack on the right.

FFA: Madoc Sheehan & Anthony Timms, 2009

Trad 22m
16 Green Ant Shuffle

Starting 5 metres right of "SSP" at the crack line left of "The Bowen Special". A few tough moves as it steepens then onto a delicate slab. Save a large cam for the upper slab just below the tree. Belay near the top of the buttress.

FFA: Madoc Sheehan & Anthony Timms, 2010

Trad 25m
North Sentinel Dreamtime
16 Foxy Lady

Stand back and look for the fox! A beautiful technical climb with classic jug ending. Shares the same anchor as Dirty Business.

FA:

FFA: Chris Beric & Steven Ioannou, 7 Mar 2015

Sport 11m, 7
North Sentinel Haystack
16 Torched

A very fun climb with good holds up to a balancy crux! Starting 2m right of BIU; up the flake, jugs, another flake then onto the slab and up to the chains. Beware of blocks that might still be loose.

FFA: David Ware & Matt Brooks, 10 Mar 2018

Sport 25m, 8
South Sentinel Cooker Wall
16 Idyll Times

3m R of Raptor is an obvious crackline leading to some offwidths up high. Follow this crack up to a set of twin cracks, then up to below the large offwidth. Trend L avoiding the offwidths following the crack up towards the top. Finish up a generously protected slab to DBB on the L wall. Requires a sling to escape.

FFA: Rik Wittkopp & Mark Gommers, 2003

Trad 35m
16 The Blackbody Roaster

Starts just L of the arête at the beginning of Cooker Wall. Follow the crackline then gear to finish at the DBB for IT.

FFA: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2009

Trad 25m
South Sentinel Watchtower
16 Glory Days
1 16 25m
2 16 12m

Start 20m uphill from FTG at tree close to rock.

  1. (25m 16) Slab on LHS of tree then move R to corner up high. Up corner and move R onto ledge. Up wall to ledge and Belay above scrub.

  2. (12m 16) Up crack left of large orange corner. Up small left facing corner toward tree at the top. Escape off tree.

FFA: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2007

Trad 37m, 2
South Sentinel North Face
16 Absent Friends Original Start

Starts about 8m R of AF at a vague grey line. Up the ramp (loose blocks on the L) and continue up for about 20m. Then up R of an orange scoop and traverse L above to reach orange rock and corner. Up corner to vegetated belay ledge and chains.

FFA: Mark Gommers, Jason Mudge & Chris Noon, 2003

Trad 48m
Frederick Peak Plagiarism Wall
16 The Nose

FFA: Steve Ioannou, Chris Glastonbury & Chris Beric, 2013

Trad 18m
South Pinnacle
16 Where Do We Go Now?

The obvious brown corner on the first decent bit of rock. Escaping right past a tree to finish.

FFA: Steven Ioannou & Christopher Glastonbury, 2007

Trad 15m
16 Pinnacle of Insanity

Start by climbing up the right leaning slabby corner, moving left into scoop. Continue left up to the above scoop, trending right and up onto brown slab. Climb up to a small roof and then the obvious corner on the right to belay ledge. Stay roped for the final few metres to the top.

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2007

Trad 48m

Showing all 11 routes.

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