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Routes in Jungle Gym

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Showing all 15 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
26 Rigorous Testing
Sport 8m, 6 Frederick Peak
2003
19 Master's Apprentice
1 17 15m
2 19 20m
3 19 43m

Starts just before The Fairy Garden, just after the large boulder – look for a stainless rivet at head height. Take 1 bracket.

  1. 15m (17) Up past rivet into small corner and gear. Move left along ledge to gain slick diagonal crack. Follow this to belay ledge.

  2. 20m (19) Follow the loose but easy buttress on the left side of the ledge to gain steep face. Climb through the sustained face passing 3 FHs and up to chains on ledge.

  3. 45m (19) From the chains traverse right and up to FH. Technical moves past this (crux) to ledge with weakness on left side. Follow this tending left to sloping black ledge. Continue up cracks to the right of this ledge until you reach a large corner/chimney. Now up this to large ledge and tree belay.

Escape via hidden chains below large tree at southern end of ledge. 2 x 35m raps to the ground.

P1-2 Mark Gommers, Nathan Bolton, Adam Hardaker 1.7.03

P3 Rik Wittkopp, Mark Gommers 2.7.03

FA: Mark Gommers, Nathan Bolton & Adam Hardaker, 2003

FFA: Rick Wittkopp & Mark Gommers, 2003

Mixed trad 78m, 3, 5 Frederick Peak
19 Master's Apprentice
1 17 15m
2 19 20m
3 19 43m

Starts just before The Fairy Garden, just after the large boulder – look for a stainless rivet at head height. Take 1 bracket.

  1. 15m (17) Up past rivet into small corner and gear. Move left along ledge to gain slick diagonal crack. Follow this to belay ledge.

  2. 20m (19) Follow the loose but easy buttress on the left side of the ledge to gain steep face. Climb through the sustained face passing 3 FHs and up to chains on ledge.

  3. 45m (19) From the chains traverse right and up to FH. Technical moves past this (crux) to ledge with weakness on left side. Follow this tending left to sloping black ledge. Continue up cracks to the right of this ledge until you reach a large corner/chimney. Now up this to large ledge and tree belay.

Escape via hidden chains below large tree at southern end of ledge. 2 x 35m raps to the ground.

P1-2 Mark Gommers, Nathan Bolton, Adam Hardaker 1.7.03

P3 Rik Wittkopp, Mark Gommers 2.7.03

FA: Mark Gommers, Nathan Bolton & Adam Hardaker, 2003

FFA: Rick Wittkopp & Mark Gommers, 2003

Mixed trad 78m, 3, 5 Frederick Peak
2009
23 Welcome to the Jungle
1 20 30m
2 23 50m

Ambiguous start R of OMF.

  1. (30m 20) Stick clip. 2nd bolt (crux) and up to easier ground. Trend L, then R to steep corner at large block. over block to slab and belay on ledge.

  2. (50m 23) Up through orange bowl and 4 bolts. Up headwall on gear, then through scoops and 2 more bolts. Up slab to L facing chimney and ledge.

Same escape as MA.

FFA: Chris Beric/Chris Glastonbury, 2009

Mixed trad 80m, 2, 6 Frederick Peak
2012
25 Old Man Frederick

Around the corner from Transcontinental. A rising line trending up left to a high crux with crescendoing funky moves and a steep finish.

FFA: Steve Ioannou & Chris Beric, 2012

Sport 25m, 13 Frederick Peak
19 Speed of Life

Starts on the first four bolts of OMF and continues straight up. It's a classic route and a very nice warm-up route for the area. There is a small cairn (a rock stack) to reach the bad starting holds and then up to the better hold.

FFA: Steve Ioannou & Chris Glastonbury, 2012

Sport 20m, 11 Frederick Peak
2013
19 Arguable Arrogance

Start as for WTTJ then move R and follow the pillar system to join 2nd pitch of MA.

FFA: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2013

Sport 40m, 16 Frederick Peak
20 Made in the Shade

Start as for DFAQL, then trend R and straight up large orange corner all the way to roof.

FFA: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2013

Sport 28m, 14 Frederick Peak
19 Drill First, Ask Questions Later

Start up 3rd pitch of MA then trend R over the bulge past 5 bolts into Terra Nullius. Cool off-balance move down low. Up orange corner to steep tricky finish on great rock.

FFA: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2013

Sport 19m, 11 Frederick Peak
19 Bottom of the Barrel
1 19 15m
2 17 30m
  1. 15m 19 Starting at the belay of MA p1. Head straight up through the orange rock and crack to a belay at ledge.

  2. 30m 17 Follow the path of least resistance sticking right of the orange corner of Terra Nullius. Continue right to the vague arête and natural belay on the ledge.

FFA: Chris Glastonbury (1) & Steven Ioannou (2), 2013

Trad 45m, 2 Frederick Peak
26 Gone in 60 days

Starts below the corner/roof 10m R of AA. Sustained moves from the ground to a powerful crux over the bulge (watch out for boulder below). Move R and up to a straightforward finish.

FFA: Steve Ioannou, 2013

Sport 17m, 9 Frederick Peak
21 Driven
1 19 35m
2 16 35m
3 21 30m
4 17 30m
5 19 25m
6 18 30m

Long and interesting excursion, take 16 draws and a few slings. Confident seconder recommended due to traversing nature of the route.

  1. 35m 19. New first pitch bolted in 2019. After two FH up U-bolts staying just left of Arguable Arrogance.

  2. 35m 16. Traverse R forever on spaced bolts to semi hanging belay.

  3. 30m 21. Up orange face and R around bulge (crux) to ledge. Up and hard R to belay on sloping ledge.

  4. 30m 17. Diagonally up and R toward ledge. Continue further R to belay over the void.

  5. 25m 19. A few hard moves to gain the superb white face. Up this to spacious ledge.

  6. 30m 18. Tricky bottomless start up the groove then carefully run it out over ledge. Climb towards nose feature and finish up exposed arete.

Descent: 4 x 30m raps straight down. Be wary of rope placement on 2nd and 3rd raps as there are a couple of rope jamming cracks.

FFA: Steve Ioannou & Glenn Hayford, 2013

Sport 190m, 6, 16 Frederick Peak
2014
21 Under and Over It
1 18 10m
2 21 25m

FFA: Chris Glastonbury (1) & Steve Ioannou (2), 24 Aug 2014

Trad 35m, 2 Frederick Peak
2017
29 Crimp or Fly

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 15 Jul 2017

Sport 16m Frederick Peak
25 Unhinged

FFA: Steven Ioannou & Kat Damjanovic, 21 Oct 2017

Sport 25m, 12 Frederick Peak

Showing all 15 routes.

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