Nodes in Mornington Peninsula

PLEASE BE AWARE THAT THE ROUTES AND BOULDER PROBLEMS DESCRIBED AROUND THE MORNINGTON PENINSULA ARE OFTEN ON LESS THAN PERFECT ROCK WITH QUESTIONABLE LANDINGS AT TIMES. IT IS NOT A WELL ESTABLISHED CLIMBING AREA. TREAD GENTLY, CAREFULLY AND MINDFUL OF WHERE YOU ARE. IF IN DOUBT DON'T DO IT. HAVING SAID ALL THAT IT IS A BEAUTIFUL PLACE JUST TO BE. Far from world class but for the super keen or just plain desperate there are a few pockets of climbable rock dotted around The Peninsula. One thing's for certain. Queues won't be a problem!

Some iffy routes but some good fun.

The rocks around the point on the north (right) side of Fisherman's Beach

A nice little boulder that has a few sit starts. Nothing amazing really but good for a warm up or beginners. the rock is a bit sharp but the holds are pretty interesting to mess around on.

a sit start from the main face of the boulder. Begin sitting on the rock infront of the face. The first move is the only difficult one.

A fun little sit start beginning from the slight overhang on the oceanside of the boulder, then traversing around to the main face of the boulder

another sit start from the clif side of the boulder. Again it's a difficulty first move or two and then easy. uses the really nice natural jug

Just past Freo boulder is this lovely triangle of rock offering an average problem or two. good for a warm up

A fun sit start from the lower end of the flat face of the rock,finishing with both hands on the tip.

A sit start on the ocean side of the boulder that then leads into a traverse to the left, finishing with both hands on the tip

Some good fun traverses along the stone retaining wallsthat line the beach

A very crimpy traverse across the wall furthest from the beach. Pipes are on as well as cracks in the concrete sections but not using the slopey concrete bulge or top. Moving hands up above the concrete bulge is at times easier

same as the other one but in the opposite direction

Stay beneath the concrete bulge at all times. Pipes, cracks in concrete mortar and the crumbly concrete footholds are all off. Only use the edges and face of the stone blocks. Trust your feet and it goes alright

Realistically this is the only rock face that offers some really worthwhile climbing. Quite good quality rock, interesting holds and a tall enough wall to allow for more than just 2 moves, it's the best you'll get in Mornington. RECENT ROCKFALL INVOLVING THE LOSS OF STINKY AND SMELLING OF ROSES IS A REMINDER OF HOW SHITTY MOST OF THE ROCK ON THE PENINSULA REALLY IS. APPROACH WITH CAUTION.

sit start under the crown jewel cliff on some of the juggy ledges. come out on the left side of the seaward face. get out from underneath the boulder to the large ledge and then go direct to the slot crimps about a foot below the lip and then top. fun move

The centre of the wall just right of Fish and Chips. From a low start under the roof climb up with a stiff move left to the slot crimps of F & C with the left hand. See photo.

Sit start match on the jug at the far right in the cave. Follow the line of jugs in the cave then finish up the arete of White Feet.

Sit start match on the jug at the far right in the cave. Follow the line of jugs in the cave then finish up the arete of White Feet.

Start with both feet in the white hole deep under the ledge and hands on the knife-like flakes. Work out from under the ledge and then up a series of jugs on the sea corner of the cliff.

A slightly easier problem starting to the left of 'surprise surprise' with much more straightforward beta. still pretty cool.

A really cool problem with kind of tricky beta. A standing start with hands on the sloper and the pinch. This is my favourite problem in mornington i think

Start as for Surprise Surprise with feet on the lower ledge, left hand on the sloper and right hand pinch. Head straight up to a crimp above the sloper and another pinch out to the right before getting both hands on a wide central crimp just below the top. Left hand to a small pocket above that, then mantle to top out. Great boulder!

An eliminate on Straight Surprise. Don't use the "other pinch out right" or the "small pocket" below the top.

A sit start for "Surprise surprise" " or "Straight Surprise" which begins with the right hand on the starting pinch and the left hand on a second pinchy hold just beneath and to the left. then moves easily into the actual problems. Doesn't add much difficulty to the problems.

Starts from a sit just right of 'Straight Surprise'. Use the right hand starting hold of 'SS' as the left hand start and a choice of holds for the right. Move up and right finishing with a desperate move for the top

Link up parts from 'White Feet' and 'Well shit' and 'Straight Surprise'. Start as per 'White Feet', come out from under the ledge at 'Well Shit', make the super big obvious pocket on this climb, then traverse onto the beginning holds of Straight Surprise, then up Straight Surprise to finish.

a hold eliminate/alternate route for the Jewel. When coming out from underneath the roof, instead of moving up to the large pocket, stay lower and make a big move from the low ledge to the left hand starting hold of 'Surprise surprise'

start with both hands on the obvious ledge. move right hand to the reddish pinch, then move left and top out awkwardly about midway along the boulder.

A climb on the far side of the boulder your back faces when climbing crown jewel cliff. Start down in the crack with hands on the large ledge. Harder for the short

A climb on the boulder your back faces while climbing crown jewel cliff. Starts on the slopey holds at chest height on the village in the boulder. Moves out right to the top

A sit start from the rock shelf underneath the boulder which adds a few tough moves. the crux then becomes sticking the normal starting heelhook.

Sit start with the RH on the sidepull jug just slightly left of where you would place your heel for "Heelies" and LH on a crimp in the lower section of the rock. Move left using the starting holds of Heelies and eventually "snuggle" the boulder as you move up and around the round protruding face. Traverse a bit more to the left before topping out just left of Phat Dumpy. A simple but fun variation of the climbs already on this wall.

David Shin

Start on the Heelies Sit. Move up and right, using the heel move. Grab the crimp jug in the top left of the sloper with your right hand, then bust out to the good hold up and left. Mantle over, without traversing right to the Heelies top out.

Follow the route of Tide Rider but just before the topout, continue to traverse left eliminating the top edge/lip of the rock for some easy slab climbing with solid feet and crimps. Once you've reached the arete, just before the rock quality begins to diminish, head up to topout. This variation is a bit contrived and doesn't add much to the difficulty of the climb but does add some variety.

NO LONGER EXTANT. A climb on the two overhanging faces near the storm water drain outlet. Start standing in the hole between the rocks at the base of the first boulder with right hand in the low pocket and left up high in the crack. move up this face and then move across onto the second boulder. move around the corner of this boulder and top out on the side closet to the drain. Pretty complex route but an interesting climb

Same start as stinky but instead of moving to the other boulder just move up and over the lip to the left on the first boulder. No using the arete until you've gained the top

AN EX PROBLEM. A slightly harder start to "Stinky". start standing to the right of the first face with right hand on the low jug on the top arete and left hand on one of the pinchy juggy holds on the side of the face. Use the same starting foothold as stinky with the left foot Move left and up into the holds of the normal problem. (DECEASED 🥀)

A sit start down in the pit of the stinky boulder. 4 or so moves lead in to the starting holds of 'Short Stink'. beware of the sharp slot.

lots of different eliminate problems can be done on this face staring from either the central or right starting position. A good one involves eliminating the high right hand pocket from the problem which forces some cool moves.

The hanging arete of the right hand precariously balanced block straight up to hands on top then step right to pull over. (RIP The precariously balanced block is no longer precariosly balanced. IT HAS SHUFFLED OFF THIS MORTAL COIL! It now lies firmly at rest below! 🥀🥀🥀)

Short but worthwhile sit start problem 30m, or so, beyond the drain. Hands in or below very low, wide break. Pull on. Move up on slopers only to sloping top out.

2 somewhat large boulders sitting on the high tide mark between theo's doom and the crown jewel cliff offering some pretty cool, physical problems. probably some of the better quality rock in mornington

A sit start on the ocean side of the north boulder. Start with a right hand pinch and left hand on the top edge, move up the rails until you get to the tip and top out

A traverse across the lip of the overhanging face, topping out on the stepped down part of the right side. Quite physical moves. Good fun

A linking traverse around the boulder. Begin with the sit start on"geodude", traverse across the ocean face, around the corner, across the lip of the overhanging face. Top out on the stepped down section on the far side

Sit start with hands matched on the low protruding block. A very bunched start leads to some shouldery moves leads to a top

Sit start heading up the overhanging face. Start with left hand pinching arete and right on a low undercling. Power up to good right hand sidepull, slap to the lip and mantel direct

Low start on the slopey side pulls with a heel left. Traverse far left to top out.

Start as for Fishy Business then mantle up the main face on good holds.

Start with left hand on blocky high under cling and right on the sloper/crimp on the corner of the lower rh face. Squeeze hard to stand up and powerfully slap wherever you can hold to top out direct for the full experience. Note that this could be over graded.

Immediately behind the Pewter City boulders up the tallest section of cliff. Start slighly right on the most solid section of vertical sand below the more promising headwall. Straight up via small crimps /pockets left and the large scoop in the arete. Probably safest to top out if you don't mind getting scratched up a bit in the bush beyond.

going up the cliff behind and to the right of the main pewter city blocks. start with hands on the lower ledge and move up directly using horizontal cracks and good crimps

20 metres north of the main pewter city boulders is a nice looking arete up on the cliffs. This line goes up the seaward face starting with hands on the head high ledge. Downclimb from the top hold, top out if you're brave.

Start with a hand on either side of the arete. move up to the nice pocket on the left hand face and get the top. drop off the top hold

The section of clffs from theo's doom cliff around to the north for a few hundred metres offers some fun but somewhat sketchy problems. Best to head here with pads and be prepared for lose ground on the top outs. Lots of unclimbed problems still to be done.

Some pretty sketchy cliffs up above the beach. It's not very high and can be treated as a bouldering area but the slopey, loose ground and slightly sandy holds make it a bit iffy.

A kind of dodgy climb up the crack in the corne of the cliff, topping out to the right.

A traverse starting from the walkdown point to the left. traverses along the low wall until you reach the main wall of the cliff

A boulder down and to the left of the cliff with one route up the front

Direct sit start from the left end of the break and straight up Social Anxiety.

A really cool climb up the right face of the crack of terror. Start mid way along the chest height ledge, move up and left through good crimps to the top

Starts similarly to social anxiety but heads up directly and a little bit right using good edges on the face

an extension to 'Social Anxiety'. begin around the corner from the original problem with a run and jump up to the ledge. traverse left around the ledge into the start of the original problem. gets tiring

Scarier than it is hard. Jumpstart up to the rail on the ocean face of the cliff and lever yourself up using the arete

Start far right with good pinch on the arete for your right and small crimp pinch for the left. One powerful campus gets you to the rail and on from there. Unsure of the grade

Jump up to the break and then head to the top using small face holds (No use of left arête or chossy crack on right)

Starts at the back of the shallow cave on shoddy rock to the right of Pandemic Panic then traverse right out across the roof crack, feet on vertical sand, then straight up the pocketed blunt arête to finish.

The section of cliff faces up above the L boulder offer a few high problems with cool movement but scary top outs

Going up the off width crack between the two faces

Up the left face using the right arete. Top out is very easy but loose so take care with what you pull on

Start low with both hands in the good slot and climb directly up the arete using crimps and pinches. Once you've gained the good holds at the lip top out direct or as for Fraser's Face

Stand start up the obvious crack feature with a left hand in either the two finger pocket or the bigger slightly sandy pocket and the right hand in the jug

As for Fraser's Face but eliminate both aretes. Climbs well

Eliminating the juggy crack, climb the underside and prow of "Funky Fun Times"

A cool beginner boulder just beneath Nut up Cliffs"

A sit start, traverse problem from the raised rock on the L shape side of the boulder. Move up to the lip then move around the corner, across the ocean side and top out around the next corner. Nice warm up

Same as SSB sin the rails and ledge at the top of the boulder. Using pockets and cracks to traverse around to the topout on the northern corner of the boulder

A one move standing start on the ocean face of the boulder. start with one hand in the crimp on the crack and the other on the arete then one big move to the top. Fun move

A sit start down at the bottom of the arete. A pretty bunched start on decent crimps leads up to the starting holds of Yote. Your leg dabbing against the block to the left is impossible to avoid

Sit start on the ocean side face of the boulder. The crux is figuring out how to pull on

Start in the cave, right hand on the flake just left of the lower boulder, left hand on the flake around the corner. Climb goes straight up the arrete and tops out the left side. Crux is the first move without dabbing on any of the three lower boulders.

Immediately left of Sexy Swedish Face and Sneak Up On The Dragon. A cramped but steep rock suspended over a small base platform.

Start with your left hand on the lumpy sloper, your right on the small crimp on the right underside, a right heel hook can be found on the edge 3/4 of the way down. A sequence of high tension moves to move up to the nose then mantling up the side to top out.

A small overhanging boulder 5m right of the L boulder (when facing the cliff)

Comfortably lay down/sit start with a good RH pinch and a LH crimp. Shoot up to the lip and mantle to top out.

Sit start hanging low on the bottom left between the two smaller boulders. Move up the sharp edges on the left then perform a large cross up to the juggy sidepull and top out with a mantle.

The boulder with the obvious flake a few metres south of Get Comfy and L Boulder.

Sit start with hands about halfway up the sidepull then move up the flake all to the top right and mantle onto the top of the boulder.

Start by hanging off the bright orange sloper and traverse across the top of the boulder topping out at the right end.

A boulder with a great overhanging face on the ocean side that's only accessible at low tides. Located about 10m away from L boulder, closer to fishies beach.

A really enjoyable sit start on the slightly overhanging face of the boulder. Start to the left with hands over the edge and move up the arete and compress using holds to the right to gain the top

A small and very orange block just above the Guano boulder

Very low SDS on obvious jugs. Head straight up and over without using either aretes or stepping on any detached rocks.

pretty much the next boulder back towards the cliff from the Insanely Chill Boulder. Just one poor line on each end

Surprisingly tricky for a 1 metre tall piece of choss. start sitting with hands very low on the holds underneath the boulder or the pockets just on the face. Either slap up on slopers or compress awkwardly on better holds. cramped either way. could use an upgrade or downgrade

Just to the right of Bat Poo. Start low with LH in a slot crimp and RH on a crimp just right and up of the slot crimp. Continue up the arete.

David Shin

The next cove around from fishermans bay offers some decent boulder problems, most of them being centred around Spider's Rock.

An interesting, large slab of rock resting on a few others causing some cool little overhangs and fun routes. The name comes from the large amounts of spider webs built up on it. There's many a smaller boulder sitting around it too that offer a few little problems.

The nose of Spider’s Rock facing the road. Sit start with feet at the back of the cave and hands on the lip above your head. Pull over for the good crimps and pockets then straight up to finish.