Showing all 60 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Brunch
Start as for Pinch Arete, traverse R across Jump to Jug to scoop and undercling, then up employing a good spotter and an accurately placed mat for the final moves FA: Dave Jones | 8m | |||
North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | |||||
34 | ★★★ Light Weight Baby
This route was previously known as The Sean Myles Project and bolted in around '92 by its English namesake. Like a woody problem on classic Arapilisian bums through a steep wall to finish up crimpy headwall. Start at base of roof left of Aristocrat (clip the 3 dynas with single biners for ease of climbing, and to keep rope away from holds). Slappy compression leads to base of seam. Clip bolt at lip and head straight up via pulls between edges and last bolt to easy finish and single bolt lower-off. FA: Ben Cossey | 10m, 5 | |||
North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | |||||
33 | ★★ Punks Addiction
Joins the hardest bits of both routes and is supposedly a grade harder than each of them. At least two repeats, Chris Lindner in 2009 and Byam Keil in 2023. Start as for Pretty in Punk, finish as for Punks in the Gym. FA: David Jones | 25m, 9 | |||
33 | ★ Somalia
Deterred many very strong suitors for many years and finally fell to the Kiwi Wizz kid FA: Wiz Fineron, 2012 | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Ground Control Caves Top Cave | |||||
V11/12 | Nutts to Butts
Upper Cave. Links 'Fog' into 'Dead Heat'. | ||||
V11 | ★★★ Dead Heat
Upper Cave. Rumoured to be a total classic at the grade - and it looks like it too. Sit-start left of 'I Feel So Holy' and motor up through the pockety featers on the steep wall to the big slopey break. Shuffle rightwards to a high-ish topout. | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Ground Control Caves Middle Cave | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Killer Dwarf
Middle Cave. 2016 guidebook grade FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Love Boulder | |||||
V11 | ★★ Haters Gonna Hate
Sit start on slopey rail. | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
33 | ★★ The Great Affair
Demanding bouldery cruxes and intimidatingly huge dynos. According to Dave Jones, 'Malcolm only ever bolted this because he'd just done Mirage and thought he could dyno the full height of the cliff'. Start about 15m R of The Seventh Pillar, 2-3m R of Slytherin.
Set: Malcolm Matheson (and DS added by Nalle 2017), 1993 FFA: Dave Jones freed pitch 3 ~2000, Nalle Hukkatival p1 & p2 Oct 2017, Oct 2017 | 60m, 3, 8 | |||
34 | Askleipos
Extension to Kundalini. Adds another 7m of hard climbing on thin crimps and pockets and a final jump to the ledge. FA: Alex Megos, 2015 | 25m | |||
33 | Sneaky Snake
The visionary black streaks and water grooves about 5-8m R of Naja. The joke used to be that Steve Monks "marked his turf" at the top of Naja after every shot; it looks like perhaps Lee did too! Start as for Naja. Up Naja for 2 or 3 bolts then traverse right via an obvious undercling flake a few metres above the low roof. Use long (2m) extenders for this section. Now follow the incredible grooves, ignore the half-height anchor, and continue up via amazing sustained climbing on slopey edges to the top of the wall in one single mega pitch. Rap anchor (55m). FA: Lee Cossey, 2011 | 55m | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - South | |||||
33 | ★★★ Groove Train
An extension to Groovy, this was briefly the hardest route on the wall and may be the best. Climb it in 1 pitch from the ground. The sheer face above the finish of the Groovy groove is sparsely bolted (despite a dubious retrobolt by Dave Graham ... which lasted about 5 seconds after he left) up the black streak to a lower off. Can seep. Equipped by Zac Vertrees and Mike Law (with the top lower-off added by Jake Bresnehan), this was attempted by a who's who of Australian hard-men over 7 years before Ben's success. Ben Cossey FA of Groove Train https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-PsXKda6JU FA: Ben Cossey, 2009 | 45m, 2, 10 | |||
33 | Trouser Snake
Just another incredible looking line on Taipan. It's the orange streak directly above Snake Flake's anchor, climbed in a single pitch from the ground. Set: Equipped by Ben Cossey & Al Pryce late Oct 08 FA: Lee Cossey, 2013 | 48m | |||
34 | The Old Dog
a.k.a Enter the Dragon, a.k.a. Mortal Combat. This is the subtle groove about 6-8m R of Mr J's arête. "33/34" with tricky beta on both cruxes and lots of kneebar action, says Alex. Start at the DRB at the base of Venom. Trend L past FH, through desperately blank looking bulge, to follow the line of anti-holds up the attractive faint groove, joining Venom at the big break. Nalle reported "8B boulder section with very precise and shoulder intensive moves, bad feet and the two worst slopers I’ve ever seen on a route. This is followed by an easier but absolutely amazing scoopy section to a pretty ok rest. From there you set up for one of the craziest dynos I’ve ever done! If you stick the low percentage dyno, there’s still a sustained run-out section with long moves to the anchor". Set: Equipped Rich Heap, 2000 FA: 2000 FFA: Alex Megos, May 2015 | 18m, 6 | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Closed Spurt Wall (Bouldering) | |||||
V11 | Snooky Badlands
Resides on the walk-in track to 'Spurt Wall' - just before the 'tunnel' (beneath the 'Taipan' route 'Invisible Fist'). FA: Garth Miller, 2000 | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Between the Sheeps | |||||
V11 | ★★★ When We Were Kings
Only one of the moves on this 14 move roof traverse is hard. Unfortunately all the rest require exactly the same muscles, ensuring a month long bicep ache. Fred Nicole didn't do it! Can you? FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall | |||||
V11 | ★★ Athena
~8m to the right of Zeus, start on the block with the odd pinch inside. Out left to shallow pocket, big lockoff to sidepulls and finish directly above on flat edge. FA: Blake Wardell, 2017 | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Citadel | |||||
V11 | ★★ Mad Max
Sit-start from a poor RH undercling and an incut LH 'pocket' - massive span move out right to the arete of 'Nice Max' - then finish as for this problem. Positive ape-index recommended! FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
V11 | Project Traverse
Possibly the traverse completed by Dai Koyamada - starting from the V2 start hold - then traversing right to the finish of 'Mad Max' - unconfirmed. | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Cave Club | |||||
V11/12 | Full Bean
Heads straight up just right of the start of Sultans of Swing. Pending details. | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Gobsmacker Corner | |||||
V11 | ★★ Gobsmacker
Sit-start at a small, slopey undercling with not much for feet. FA: Julian Saunders, 2000 | 3m | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Andersens Slabs | |||||
V11 | ★ Snatch
The line 1m right of Feverish starting at the good pocket. Make tenuous moves up slopey rails to a high top out. | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Seduction Wall | |||||
V11 | ★ Cruise Control
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North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Andersens Consulting Boulder | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Forced Entry
Start left of the V4 problem on a good gaston and take a left-trending line past the mono to topout. Has seen an impressive flash ascent by James Litz (US). Originally given V13 by Sharik as the mono didn't exist and he did horrible moves crimping the very edge of the same hold. Dynoing from the crack directly to the top is 'Forced Entry Direct' (V11) FA: Sharik Walker | ||||
V11 | ★ Forced Entry Direct
Dai Koyamada's addition to Andersens. Sit start matched on the left facing flake. Move up the wall and jump like mad to the lip. FA: Dai Koyamada | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Mandatory Choices Boulder | |||||
V11 | ★★ Spider Mate
Stand start to Peter Parker. | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke Bad Cliche Boulder | |||||
V11 | ★★ Former Glory
Sit start on the low rail and move up a series of dimples and slopers to crimps and jugs at the top. Hard for the grade - James didn't want it to be downgraded. FA: James Kassay | 3m | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Clicke The Ark | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Buandik Dreaming
Sit start on good side pull and small crimp, up through crimps before veering left as the landing falls away. FA: Sam Healy | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Clicke 3 Star Buttress | |||||
V11 | ★★ That's Amore
Stand start on crimps, use arete to throw for good edge. FA: Michael Tonon | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Kindergarten Closed The Kindergarten (bouldering) | |||||
V11 | ★★ Point and Shoot
Sit start on underclings below the white rail 2m left of the start of STMB. Climb to a slopey pocket and underclings to make a big move gaining the slopey pinch of STMB and finish as for this problem. | ||||
V11 | ★★ So You Think You Can Dance
Start underclinging the left side of the scoop feature (just left of the start of The Nevin Rule). Move up to LH incut crimp via tricky kneebars and underclings, gaston edges to meet The Nevin Rule at the high pinch. Finish as for The Nevin Rule. | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs Sandinista Wall | |||||
33 | ★★ Sparticus
Hardest route in the Grampians? Start: Link-up of Daniel Or-Tiger into Somoza via some mind-blowing climbing. Very sustained with a bouldery crux. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002 | 25m | |||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs Sandanista Area Bouldering Malapropism Boulder | |||||
V11 | Schnell | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Tantrum
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North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Loopeys | |||||
V11 | Panoptikum
Start as for 'Passion' then traverse all the way across the crux of Klapusterperle, through the start of 'Bitch Slap' and finish as for 'Winterkirsch'. Has also been done by finishing up 'Bitch Slap' (Sharik Walker) at no change in grade. FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Hollow Mountain Cave | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Dead Can't Dance
Starts on the two 'rails' - at the finish of Cave Man - then climbs out via the famous 'pinch' hold into a gaston crux (the pinch hold of Rave Heart) finishing as for Wimmel Friedhoff. FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
V11 | Viva Resistance
Link Body Eater into 'Ogre Thumb' FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000 | ||||
V11 | Cave Heart
X-Treme cool into 'Desire' FA: Ben Heason, 2000 | ||||
V11 | Caved Out
Starts up 'Extended World' V10, drops down into Wimmel Friedhof V5 and then finishes up 'Gastonia' V8 FA: Ben Heason, 2000 | ||||
North West Grampians North Grampians Iskra Crag Lemonade Wall | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Parallel Lines
FFA: Nalle Hukkataival, 2011 | ||||
V11 | ★ Circuit Breaker
FFA: Nalle Hukkataival, 2011 | ||||
North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths First Blood | |||||
V11 | ★★★ First Blood
Sit start on small side pull edges then up with difficulty compressing heinous slopers on the awesome prow/arete (slightly left of line in printed guide) FA: Simon Weill | ||||
North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Bakelite Concept | |||||
V11 | ★★★ The Bakelite Concept
The beautiful cracked face is deceptively hard. From the stand start climb the face past a very hard deadpoint. FA: Simon Weill | ||||
North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Quickening Boulder | |||||
V10/11 | ★★ The Thiccening
Start as for The Quickening, head right through crimps from the jug. | ||||
North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants The Taken Boulder | |||||
V11 | ★★★ The Taken
| 5m | |||
North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Ways of Being Boulder | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Ways of Being
Sit start on left-hand side of boulder, moving right through undercling and various pinches, finishing with a desperate and bare top-out. Good idea to suss the finish before getting there. FA: Oliver Miller | ||||
North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Valley of the Giants Abyss Boulder | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Devil in the Detail | 8m | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | |||||
33 | ★★★ Flower Power
One of the hardest routes in 'Victoria'. A sustained full frontal assault on the highest part of the cave. Start: Start just R of DF. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2003 | 20m | |||
North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders The Philosopher's Stone | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Kant Touch This Sit
Sit on arete and traverse up and left into Kant Touch This | ||||
V11 | ★★★ A Puzzle About Belief
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North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Crag X | |||||
V11 | Velour (s)
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North West Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area Buandik Bouldering Amusement Park | |||||
V11 | Happy Ending
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V11 | Knowing is half the battle
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North West Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area Closed Cave of Man Hands | |||||
V11 | ★★ Hand Solo
Start in the far left of the cave and work your way right before finishing up Cold Hands. | ||||
V11 | ★★ Manhandled
Hard climbing with a powerful and shouldery crux. | ||||
V11 | ★★ Dos Manos
Easy climbing leads to a couple of hard moves on slopey holds. | ||||
V11 | ★★ The Sound of One Man Hand Clapping
Easy climbing to a dynamic and reachy section through a blank looking roof. Cut loose and prosper. | ||||
Melbourne and Surrounds Camels Hump Omega Block Area Privy Block - Chain buttress | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Mind Wars
There you have it... the main event. LDWT into DIM. Epic. FA: Mark Rewi, 17 Sep 2019 | 10m | |||
Melbourne and Surrounds Camels Hump Trackside Boulders Globe Boulder | |||||
V11 | ★★ Twelfth Night SDS
SDS low in the cave. Crimp and compress your way up and left on the impressive nose, to better holds over the bulge. FA: Fraser Gust | 3m | |||
Melbourne and Surrounds Mt Alexander Garden Boulders | |||||
V11 | ★★ Embers
The ten-year project finally goes down! Embers takes the obvious hanging arete from a stand-start. Left hand on the arete with a crystal thumb catch and right hand on the undercling. A powerful move on poor feet allows you to gain the small crimp. From here another hard move gets you established on easier ground. Continue up the right side of the arete all the way (don't rock around onto the left slab). FA: Peter Reynolds, 18 Jul 2019 |
Showing all 60 routes.