Routes as trad in Warrumbungles

Start on W Buttress below Tourist Route.

1. 40m (crux) Sweeping crack-line on R side of buttress (loose rock).

2. 25m Step across to overhanging section, then up L. Back R to meet second pitch of Tourist Route.

3. 40m As for Tourist Route.

Apparently this route used to follow some kind of markers. I doubt they are still there. The line of least resistance.

Start 30 m right of Tourist Route.

1-2) Direct line up open, knobby rock gully with fig at 20 m.

Start 5 m R of Tourist Route Variant.

1-2) Take a line of least resistance up wide crack behind big block.

Start round corner (R) from Next Best. Walk up grassy gully to jumbled chimney-gully with small figs. Up.

Start in next gully R of Lost Four.

1-2) Up deep, black gully with fig root running to the bottom of it.

Start 2 m R of Aladdin's Lamp at a small fig.

1. 45m (crux) Snaking crack, then tend R at 10 m. Through bulge at 30 m, then R up wall to narrow shelf. Traverse 5 m R to belay in alcove. Possibly break this pitch into two to avoid rope drag.

2. 45m Down R, then finish as for Indigenous.

Start round buttress (R) from Kamilaroi at fig jungle.

1. 40m Up through fig to where buttress meets cliff. Up loose, detached pillar, then R out of crack. L to belay.

2. 40m Squeeze up behind blocks. Up.

Start 5 m R of Indigenous.

1. 12m Up through fig to scrubby shelf.

2. 30m Gully, taking R branch.

3. 28m Scramble up.

Start at second gully E of Brother.

1. 20 m Zigzagging crack on buttress. Round boulder, then up to fig.

2. 35 m Up to ledge.

3. 25 m Easy.

Start at prominent black streak 10 m R of Corm's Invitation.

1. 35 m Through small figs, then up gully/crack-line.

2. 35 m Continue up black streak, then R to alcove.

3. 30 m L, then up chimney. Through gap at top.

Start 10 m R of April Fool, in middle of S Face.

1. 40 m Short gully and wall to fig, then small crevice to sloping rock and short corner. Up 15 m.

2. 40 m Juggy wall, then over grassy waterway to crevice/wall. Up to join final chimney of April Fool.

Start 20 m W of pine on buttress.

1. 40 m Narrow gully to large shelf, then avoid mossy crack by climbing slabs to R. Chimney to fig.

2. 40 m Juggy section to ledge, then sloping crack and chimney.

Start at sloping, scrubby crack that leads towards prominent pine on skyline.

1. 30 m Sloping crack through vegetation, then traverse L of rounded block. Dirty crack to fig.

2. 35 m Down, then 30 m R to next crack. Belay on ledge with big ferns.

3. 35 m Deep crack.

Start as for Beachcomber.

1. 35 m R up wall.

2. 35 m Line of least resistance.

Start round buttress E of Falcon Nest.

1. 30 m Up jumbled main buttress.

2. 40 m Up easily.

Start E of main buttress in middle of cliff.

1. 40 m Sloping gully, then wall and gully with fig.

2. 40 m (crux) Big chimney

Start 4m E of Dark Side of the Moon.

1. 30m Black, indented watercourse, then L over grass at 25 m.

2. 30m R on to wall at prominent fig in gully, then slabs to large ledge. Walk W and up deep, ferny gully.

3. 40m As for Dark Side of the Moon pitch two.

1. 50 m Gully 10 m E of Cissus, then off-width to ledge.

2. 50 m As for last pitch of Sunday School.

Start 5m E of Done in Dunlops.

1. 50 m Scrubby scramble, then up to big shelf.

2. 50 m Fantastic chimney.

Start 5m W of big detached pillar.

1. 45m Smooth, water-worn gully.

2. 45m Up.

Crack up middle of big detached pillar L of the Devils Chair. Abseil down back. A slightly easier route has been done up back of this pillar - no further details.

Start in big gully with blackberries W of the Devils Chair.

1. 45 m Crevice on R of chimney to face. Follow small crack up L through slight overhang. Up 2 m to large crack, then up L past fish-hook-shaped boulder.

2. 35 m Round R from ledge to smooth, vertical crack. Up this for 10m, then round L to chimney. Chimney to grassy ledge.

3. 20m Chimney, as for Intrigue.

Start at chimney roughly behind the Devils Chair.

1-2) Chimney with roof at 10 m.

Broken crack-line behind the Devils Chair.

Crack on NE Face, then round bulge at three quarters height.

Start 30 m R of Sunnyside.

1-2) Up.

Start at base of ridge.

1-2) Wander up.

Start 50 m L of West Ridge, where a branch from a stringy-bark almost touches the cliff [well, it did in 1992...].

1-2) Wander up, meeting West Ridge near top.

A good easy slab route. Once (and may still) had a cairn at the base. Start 30m left of Gold Gold Gold at a big block sitting on slab.

1. 30m Water·streak to twin, small (probably big by now!) kurrajongs. On to ledge

2. 50 m Out round small roofs on R, then scramble up.

Start on N face in major circular cut-out, 100m W of Old Timer. Sloping rock, then through overhang. Up easily to belay, then scramble up.

Start: About half-way around the north side and directly below clean, open easy slabs from which a good final corner looms. Used to be a cairn at the base.

1-2) Slabs then corner above. A belay may be difficult to organise.

Start 15m W of Old Timer.

1. 45m Slab on L of small watercourse. Belay below prominent rock outcrop.

2. 25m Up L of outcrop.

Start on N Face between an angophora and a wild cherry.

1. 30m Slabs to wall and block. Up wall R of block for 8m, then slab for 10m tending L to grassy ledge.

2. 25m Up easily.

Start at crack in bulge atop big scoop in middle of face.

1. 35 m Over bulge, then slightly L to ledge with small bush.

2. 53 m (crux) Up wall on edges (no pro; extra-long pitch). On FA the belay had to be undone to allow leader to reach the top.

A Lakeland·style route. Start at S end of Tower Bluff below easy-angled ramps.

1. 50 m Ramps to top of big ledge before steepening.

2. 30 m (crux) Down slightly, then R to clean crack with bushes at base. Up.

3-4) 60 m Up, turning loose block at 15 m on L. Finish up crack.

Start at prominent orange corner crack with large, white gum at top.

Gully/crack-line 40 m E of Without Bloodshed, past bushes.

Start 6m left of bloodshed at thin crack. Up through bulge to blunt arête.

Start between bloodshed and the nose next to big blocks. Up through bulge to seam and wall.

A classic climb up a steep, exposed wall and slab on good rock. An excellent intro to climbing at the Warrumbungles. Can be climbed in two pitches.

Scramble up to below the red-brown wall in middle of W Face, between prominent buttress and Abseil Gully (10 m L of Abseil Gully). Start just left of the 'V'

1. 15m To prominent ledge.

2. 35m Up close to corner for 10m and then head diagonally right to belay on Tourist Traverse. Some parties stick to the corner cracks.

3. 30m Step left to avoid small overhang. Up, superb climbing with good pro. Belay on block to avoid severe rope drag.

4. 15m Easy slab.

Start 3 m L of Abseil Gully, below bulging rock.

1. 22m (crux) Up R over bulge. Up.

2. 10m Up to belay on Tourist Traverse ledge.

3. 33 m Up until angle eases. Thread belay.

4. 15 m Easily to middle peak.

The route of the original ascent of Belougery Spire by Eric Dark and Osmar White in 1932, interpreted from a description of the FA in Walkabout 1-4-36, which said'...one pitch is a three· hundred-foot traverse across the face of the mountain on a ledge from a foot to three feet wide, with sheer rock wall above and a drop of a thousand feet below'. This clearly describes pitches two and three of this route.

Start: At the far right hand end of the Halfway Ledge below the obvious, vegetated gully.

1: 20m As for pitch one of Abseil Gully. Up corner/gully to chains on right.

2: 50 m Traverse left across the middle of the face on the big ledge (tending up at the end) and into the vegetated gully.

3: 40m At very end of ledge is a fine chimney, which leads to the famous 'Anti·Marilyn' squeeze hole. It is not really tight although presumably Marilyn couldn't do it. It is possible to climb around to the left of the squeeze hole too.

4: 20m Easy climbing to the summit.

Start: At the far right hand end of the Halfway Ledge below the obvious, vegetated gully.

1. 16 m From L end of corner· gully go up to tree on R.

2. 5 m Crack above. Small tree belay.

3. 22 m Traverse 5 m L. The little overhang requires some cogitation. Up past tree. Finiish up R side of gully. Belay off descent anchors on L. Scramble to top.

This route was once thought to be Eric Dark's and Osmar White's original route to the summit. This is almost certainly not the case. However, since this route is already well known as Dr Dark's Chimney it is probably less confusing to retain this name as a tribute to Eric Dark's achievements in the Warrumbungles. From the top of the water-worn gully that leads to Half-way Ledge on W face, turn R up steep, vegetated gully. Many parties prefer to avoid this gully by climbing first two pitches of If the Spirit Moveth.

1-2: 60 m Scrubby gully on R, carefully, to large ledge at base of slabs leading up to chimney. Belay off bush.

3: 25 m Diagonally R up slabs to short crack. Crack to ledge below main chimney.

4: 35 m (crux) Chimney to where it opens out. Belay.

Easy scramble to S summit.

Shares start of If the Spirit Moveth (same first two pitches), continues to Doctor Dark's Chimney belay ledge, then goes L of Doctor Dark's Chimney and up wall.

Follow track to W Face. Continue along track behind detached pinnacle and scramble up first narrow gully to narrow ledge.

1. 35 m Up small ramp, then up over small overhang. Meander up to tree belay. Scramble to ledge and follow track L along cliff line. Track dips to a narrow belay stance about 5 m past bottom of dip (near finish of Doctor Dark's Chimney pitch two. Vertigo is round comer to L.)

2. 40 m Steep slab (adequate pro), tending slightly R, to small overhang. Poor rock. Overhang (crux), then easier climbing for about 20 m to small, vertical crack.

3. 15 m Scramble to top, with belay tree for Doctor Dark's Chimney visible on R, at end of chimney.

A fantastic varied crack high up on the west face of the spire. It provides a superb low(er) commitment but engaging approach to the south summit pinnacle on the spire. Excellent protection, clean rock and stellar crack climbing which all in one combo is a rarity in the Bungles. Stays in the shade till after midday (1 to 2pm ish in September).

Start on the upper ledge system (above and south of the Vertigo ledges) reached via pitch 1 and 2 of Dr Dark's Chimmney (the scrubby gully accessed from the base of the Abseil Gully), or pitch 1 and 2 of If the Spirit Moveth (and No Birthdays on Pluto).

Done as one 50-55m pitch to the summit. Start 10m right (facing in) from the slab pitch (pitch 3) of Dr Dark's Chimmney. From the broad ledge below the slabs, solo easy ground up and right to a good belay stance in the grassy recess below a chockstone belay. The finger crack through a small bulge (crux) can be seen 8m above.

The crack eases and widens after the crux bulge and after 25-30m arches left to join Dr Darks Chimmney for the final 20-25m. Belaying once the Chimney is reached would also be an option.

Led ground up by Rick with Peregrines buzzing about in magic conditions.

Originally done in a combo with the first ascent of Fan Tail.

When done as a combo with either Fan Tail, or Meet Me At The Crux, it provides an excellent contemporary and engaging route to the summit. The scrubby gully and halfway ledges provide easy access and bail options for lower commitment on shorter days.

The following two routes, one a variant of the other have only vague route descriptions. They start at the top of the first gully that leads up to Halfway Ledge on W Face. The upper pitches of both climbs lie R of Doctor Dark's Chimney; the first follows a wall and a rib, the second a gully.

Start where access track reaches SW Arete.

1. Up gully above. Traverse to nose.

2. Continue up nose on gully side. Walk to top of pinnacle.

3. Traverse R under Doctor Dark's Chimney.

4. Exposure increases dramatically as you traverse R across a difficult nose. Veer up at about 45 degrees to base of rib.

5. To S summit.

Attributed by Bryden Allen in 63 to Davis and Pettigrew. Description is from an earlier, more detailed record.

One of many variants on If the Spirit Moveth. Variants are possible up to the foot of Dr Dark's Chimney, and from there on to S Face. A better description might read 'Up SW Arete to foot of Dr Dark's Chimney. Traverse R to face. Up'.

Start above access gully on SW Arete.

1. 18 m Up corner on R, traverse L. Up to large block, then grassy ledge.

2. 12 m Mantelshelf, then up to tree belay. Walk to foot of Dr Dark's Chimney.

3. 24 m Traverse R. Up to tree belay in gully.

4. 30 m (crux) Up in gully, then R. Up to R past jug. Thread belay near tea-tree.

5. 36 m Up to rib. Up rubble, then chimney to bush belay.

6. 30 m Easily up.

This route and Missing You Marcelle provide a direct start to the upper Halfway Ledge at the base of Vertigo, as opposed to the scramble approach up the lower part of the Abseil Gully.

While the previous description suggested the route starts from ground level, it is more likely that it starts at the top of the large lower (first) main vegetated ledge that is reached after the scramble up and over from Belougary Pinnacle as per the access to the Halfway Ledge. They likely climb the wall left of the water-worn gully below the Halfway Ledge and Vertigo. During a new route ascent on the lower west face (from ground level) no bolts or easy grade 10 lines from ground level were found which indicates the higher start.

Start somewhere left of the beginning of the water worn gully used to scramble up used to access the Halfway Ledge, the Abseil Gully and Vertigo.

1. 13m Walk L along rotten ledge. Round corner to bolt, then up.

2. 32 m Up gully on L, finishing on R to Half-way ledge.

Finish up route of choice. The topo line is a guess. Please update this if you confirm it.

Excellent climbing. Start as for West Face Direct Start.

Steeply L up line of steps to old bolt, then R to stance. Wall above to tree belay.

The topo line is a guess. Please update this if you confirm it.

An excellent modern style trad route up a series of unlikely features through a steep, intricate and pumpy weakness. Very different more sporty climbing compared to most other rock on the spires.

Might be one star at present as it still has lots of loose rock on it after the first ascent. However, after a good clean on abseil or more ascents, it will offer solid and superb rock.

Protection is fiddly and intricate to place but entirely adequate with modern tactics. Long slings and double ropes are essential. Med RPs, full rack plus double cams up to BD/WildCountry(WC) No.1, critical micro cams (WC 0.1 to 0.2).

Led ground up by Simmo with 1 rest below the crux, after all the obvious foot and hand holds kept breaking off !

Shares the same start as More Than a Pretty Face and Meet Me At The Crux.

Start at ground level at a small right-leaning overlap about 80 m down the scree gully and overhung blocky wall that extends from Belougery Pinnacle. This is where the orange and grey stone on the left meets water-streaked black and white blocky stone under the lowest point of the Vee emerging from the first large vegetated ledge on the spire.

Breach the overlap going left through a small ledge where a grass tree (Xanthorrhoea) is growing (sneaky good 0.5 WC cam), with delicate and committing moves to pull into the bottom grooves of More Than a Pretty Face, med bomber RP and 0.75 WC higher up.

Begin an intricate right traverse across the black and white blocky water-streaked rock to gain a small corner below rooflet. Excellent but fiddly wires and micro cams. Treat all footers and hand holds with much caution until it gets more cleaned up.

Sort out more excellent but intricate wires and micro cams from the corner, then commit to the cryptic and pumpy crux through the rooflet, then trend back left over the pumpy bulge, bomber micro cam, to strenuously gain a finger crack and easier ground.

Re-compose and follow the line of least resistance trending slightly right up the divine and still thought-provoking, water-worn stone to the lowest part of the Vee of the large lower vegetated ledge. Good wires and med cams.

Another excellent contemporary style route added by Simm_o and Rick during 2022. Led onsight ground up. P1 Rick, P2 Simm_o.

Follows a series of funky grooves and cracks on the lower pitch to a steep bulging and exposed finger crack on the upper pitch with easier corners and face climbing to the top.

Double standard rack. Double ropes reccommended.

Currently marred by some appalling rock and dicey but easy moves at the beginning of pitch 2. However, after a further clean on abseil (and potentially but not necessarily a bolt), it will offer excellent climbing up a strong line.

Start as for 'More Than a Pretty Face' and 'Fan Tail'.

P1 grade 20, 25 m - After gaining the beginning of the grooves shared by 'More Than a Pretty Face', follow the first groove and crack up then step delicately right into a trench above and right (take care on some still loose rock). Good med cams and wires. More delicate moves to exit up and left out of the trench onto easier ground. Up to belay ( small/med cams and wires) on the right end (facing in) of an orange ledge next to the righthand of two small figs.

P2 grade 20, 40 m - From the belay move delicately along the (at present very loose blocky) ledge and balance up to place a decent high small wire just up and right of the second fig. Step back down off the ledge and gingerly but easily hand traverse left across precarious loose blocks and poor pro to the end of the ledge. More easy but dicey moves up to gain bomber gear in the start of the finger crack proper.

Follow the finger crack (crux) 8m through a series of exposed bulges and balancy moves with excellent small wires and cams, to pull over a final bulge to a rest.

Follow the easier well protected corners up until a rooflet caps the last corner.

Escape the roofs to the right by a committing step right onto the face (great small/med cams) then up another 20m over easier well protected ground trending slightly right to belay stances where the buttress rounds over into the large vegetated gully.

An appealing line with quality climbing. Start on the lower West Face (below the Halfway Ledge), about 2/3 way down the scree descent towards Pegasus and 60m right of that route.

1. 25m Hand traverse left onto the brown wall, move up onto block and easily left 5m to crack (runners). Climb wall on right then up groove and right wall to ledge.

2. 22m (crux) Traverse left over loose rock and up to shallow corner. Up past fig to belay below roof.

3. 22m Continue up corner to roof and traverse left onto blocky wall. Straight up superb rock to where the cliff lays back.

4. 50m Easily up the ridge to the halfway Ledge.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].

Goes up the north west buttress for about 150m to the terrace, then takes a line between the upper part of Scunge Gully and Vertigo.

Start: The first obvious entry to the cliff on the way down from the pinnacle to the start of Scunge Gully i.e. roughly 30 metres right of Scunge Gully.

1. 21m Steeply leftwards up ramp below a red wall crowned by overhangs.

2. 27m To top of ramp, then step left from the corner to outflank overhangs. 2 old pitons at belay.

3. 33m Look out for the fixed bearing race! Up right hand wall of corner. Step right at about 9m to avoid overhangs. Up into groove which trends rightwards. Chockstone.

4. 30m Good chockstone at the head of the groove, up right and over bulges. Then right to a detached block.

5. 27m Left to shallow groove, thence easy ground to tree.

6. 21m Avoid vegetated gully by steep slabs behind tree. Cross the terrace.

7. 34m The fault line which starts midway between Vertigo and the upper half of Scunge Gully is followed steeply up right. Some loose rock before stepping left and up on good rock. To avoid the horror rock on this pitch, it is possible to traverse off right into Vertigo at about half height.

8. 60m Another 12m leads to Tourist Traverse.

If you want to do the Quality crux pitch of Caucasus Corner and skip the loose blocks above then this is the route for you. After Pitch 5 on the large green ledge walk 50m north to the join Pegasus's last two pitches.

Start about 30m right of Scunge Gully.

1. 45m (14) Up for 9m, then diagonally left and up to the foot of a corner sloping steeply right.

2. 26m (17) Up corner to bush then step left and up 5m to comfortable belay ledge

3. 36m (13) Out left to the rib and up easily to the right hand base of the projecting buttress (the base of the corner). Somewhat loose.

4. 28m (16) Traverse right and up steep wall to the right of corner. Belay on ledge above small layback.

5. 21m (14) Up corner and finish through loose blocks. Scramble up to large green ledge. (First ascent party camped here!)

6. 33m (15) Traverse left and slightly down (delicate) across the wall, across to foot of huge corner. Resist temptation to go high , although it looks like it is easier and has more pro you will be disappointed in both departments. The desperate looking wall offers lots of nice hidden protection and good incut holds.

7. 24m (15) Up corner to belay on block under impending wall on left. (beneath rotten rock bridge)

8. 18m (14) Out right, avoid loose blocks and up wall. The original route went to (peg) stance below an overhang on the right but this belay offers limited protection (other than the peg). A better alternative is to look for a belay to the left of the corner.

9. 24m (14) Diagonally left (loose blocks) through the line of weakness across the face leading out to the arete. Good ledge on extreme edge. Peg belay 2m above.

10. 21m (14) Round corner to left and past first groove. Up second groove to ledge.

11. 21m (14) Up to right then from peg in small corner go up nose on left and into groove. Belay on a big ledge on the right, under small overhangs.

12. 33m (15) Right and swing through overhangs. Left and up to peg, then on to summit.

When at top there is a 10m abseil into gully then one more short scramble/pitch to true summit.

Where CC moves left out of the corner buckle up and blast straight up the line and overlaps above past 4(?) well spaced fixed hangers and trad. On an earlier attempt pre bolts the leader fell 30m to land largely unharmed (physically at least) on the slabs below the belayer. He then promptly gave up climbing! The other half of the party returned, placed minimal hardware and finished the job.

Start midway between Scunge Gully and Caucasus Corner, below buttress.

1. 40 m Up to slab at 15 m. Traverse R below steepening, then up to Caucasus Corner first belay.

2. 25 m (crux) From below belay, move L to lip of undercut buttress, then up to base of orange crack. Now L, then steep wall. A glorious pitch.

3. 35 m Buttress to Caucasus Corner third belay.

4. 15 m Shattered groove to tree and ledge on L of prow.

5. 30 m Wall on L of prow starting near arete, the middle of face. Poor pro. Take small cams.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].

One of the longest climbs in the 'Bungles. A good deal harder if the final chimney can't be squeezed! Start: Above the scunge (in the centre) of the north face, up scrubby gully, to chimney leading right.

1. 12m Up to large Moreton Bay figs.

2. 33m Delicate, then up through scrub.

3. 15m Right towards rib, can stop in corner.

4. 24m To large platform. Belay on rib.

5. 9m Up left to peg.

6. 24m Continue up to tree.

7. 18m Long stretch to the gully and up (?).

8. 24m Up, some rotten rock.

9. 27m One comes to a bush!!

10. 24m To the conspicuous chimney.

11. 24m To a good chockstone.

12. 15m Up chimney (13) or outside it (15), more exposed over rotten rock to stance.

13. 27m Up, then easily to right.

14. 24m Pleasant little walls.

15. 21m Pleasant Sunday strolling!!

Pleasant and varied.

1. 50 m Start up Scunge Gully for 20 m, than buttress on L.

2. 40 m Buttress and chimney-gully on R.

3. 25 m (crux) Chimney to orange alcove. Take L-most line to buttress, then up to small ledge.

4. 30 m Buttress and loose crack to base of orange headwall.

5. 20 m Traverse 6 m L, then up orange groove to bottom of chimney. Loose.

6. 28 m Chimney.

7. 40 m Move R to buttress. Cracks to piton.

8. 40 m As for Caucasus Corner.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].

Rattles around a bit but eventually gets there. Starts as for Scunge Gully and finishes on Out and Beyond.

1. 35m Up to scunge then leftwards up buttress as for Napawi. Belay at sprawling fig.

2. 50m Continue up buttress for about 15m then leftwards on a rising traverse across brown wall. The objective is to get past the overhanging orange headwall above. The last 10m go straight up and straight left to semi hanging belay in crack (this is the top of the huge orange gash left of Scunge Gully, with white bird marks just below the belay).

3. 40m Traverse left into chimney. When it closes down, traverse left into another chimney. Up to top, step left and up to bushy ledge.

4. 50m Move up small buttress on left then back right above overhang. Climb bushy groove or cleaner buttress to big scrubby ledge. Straight up behind ledge to belay on brown blocky wall.

5. 40m Up left to short chimney. Up to top then up trending left to two old pitons (6th belay of Out and Beyond).

6-7) 80m As for Out and Beyond. Rising traverse up right towards wide corner, back left to pitons on ledge below left end of overhang, traverse left below overhang into groove and up.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].

Magnificent. Start at the lowest point of the face, under prominent pinnacle. Easy slabs lead up 60m to a prominent pinnacle.

1. 24m Climb onto the "bridge" between the pinnacle and the face via a short wall R.H. corner south of the pinnacle - vicious fight with scrub at top. N.B. This pitch may be avoided by a long traverse along a scrubby ledge, higher up from the left.

2. 36m Most novel! From top of pinnacle, carefully bridge the 2m gap to face short wall, then a long delicate, exposed traverse to the right to a large broken boulder.

3. 30m Upwards.

4. 30m Right, then up through scrub.

5. 30m General scrub-bash, or else rock to the left.

6. 30m Magnificent rock wall to right of L.H. corner system. (See direct finish)

7. 9m Traverse right and up delicately, to stance.

8. 30m Traverse right, back up left to airy belay beneath overhang.

9. 30m Cunningly avoid overhang by rightward traverse above corner. Easier to top.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].

The corner system on Out and Beyond, pitch six.

6a) 27 m Crack-corner.

7a) 48 m The line.

Start: Scramble down about 60 m from Belougery Pinnacle to the large right-tending, vegetated, rising ledge system below a steep orange wall. The original route started from the ground about 100 m down from the Pinnacle but given the poor rock quality low down it is easier (and better) to traverse in on the ledge to what was the original start of Pitch 5. Scramble or climb 100 m or so up and over the top of the ledge to the base of the huge right leaning corner system.

1. 27m Buttress on right to tree.

2. 36m Traverse left 3m into gully, thence up (18m) and traverse right to a large slab. Up right to a gully sloping left.

3. 33m Up gully then back right to piton.

4. 27m Up left then back right to strong tree.

5. 27m To summit ridge.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it. In fact, it isnt even clear if it goes to the summit ridge on the left or right at the end...]. The length of the route seems too short too.

The original first three pitches are described below but there are many variations to access the main corner system if you choose this direct option.

1. 30m Up a vertical, right facing, 12m chimney then out right till stopped by an overhang. Awkwardly back into the chimney and squeeze up.

2. 18m Scramble left to base of small corner.

3. 27m To small ledge then on rotten rock to overhang. Left around nose then up to tree trunks.

4. 30m Scramble around and up right into gully bearing right

One of endless variants to gain the main, upper corner system if you start on ground, rather than the main ledge. Start 10m right of the East Face Route (original start).

Dark, mossy corner tending left; poor pro. Up to pocket, then up right. Now back left to join East Face Route at tree (original pitch 1 or 2).

As for East Face Route for 20 m, then rising traverse L across If The Spirit Moveth and finally across Doctor Dark's Chimney up high.

[The topo line is a complete guess. Please update it].

Some contrived scrambling to an amazing chimney pitch with simple quality climbing to the top. Slight amounts of bushbashing. DO NOT DO WHEN WET, the chimney is dark and mossy and is probably unclimbable within a few days of serious rain, Otherwise good when dry.

1. 40m (6) starts at the lowest most northern part of the cliff. Easy scramble up white chossy rock to the left. Head towards the detached pinnacle. Belay at a small ledge with a large cave to the right.

2. 25m (10) Pull over the easy mantle off the ledge and follow wandering line of least resistance south towards the visible peak detached from the main wall. past tree and bushes. Belay on top of pillar with shattered large blocks.

3. 20m (5) Go left along the natural bridge between pillar and wall up to corner on the right at base of crack.

4. 20m (14) Up wide slightly overhanging crack top out on left and push back to main wall. Belay in a grassy 3m gap between the orange main wall and the darker detached pillar.

5. 20m walk left through the bush following the main wall till tree with old sling and carabiner. Belay off the tree.

6. 25m (14) Go left till the ledge drops away, up left over somewhat tricky moves with good gear. Continue up good rock trending slightly right towards obvious dark chimney. Smash through grass and bush for last 5m. Belay in the chimney.

7. 30m (12) smash up an awesome chimney, with good gear in the back. Pull over the top and head directly back following the wall through grass. belay off large loose block on ledge. careful to not drop any rocks onto belayer stuck in chimney

8. 20m (10) couple of hard moves straight left off the belay over small wall onto grassy ledge. Walk back to the next wall and then 5m left to the obvious crack system.

9. 25m (14) straight up following crack. Past old piton towards bush on ledge below next crack.

10. 30m (17) continue up the obvious crack feature, gets steep towards the top. Be careful what you stand on as there are a couple of loose blocks. pull over the slight overhang and then straight up trending right to belay on the small ledge right before the wall gets vertical.

11. 60m (12) A rope stretcher, may be better done in two pitches if there is time. Head horizontally right for 30m with good gear until darker and more bushy rock. Then smash up through an easy but unprotected bush to top out.

Start on NW side of pinnacle (away from Belougery Spire).

Up through small roofs.

Start on E side of Bread-knife at N end, up about 5 m on to rock ridge.

1. 9 m Traverse 3 m L, then R under overhang.

2. 9 m Traverse L to E Face, then corner and nose on R.

3. 24 m Arete to ledge.

4. 6 m Up.

5. 6 m (crux) Over block and wall above.

6-7) 39 m Traverse L on to E face, then ramp to gap between summits.

'8) 12 m Up.

'9) 33 m Along· ridge to abseil point.

An inspiring face and climb. Start below white streak from eagles' nest, just R of vines.

1. 8 m Up large boulder for 5 m, then traverse 3 m L.

2. 18 m Step down, traverse 6 m L, then over bulging rock to V-cleft and bolt belay.

3. 9 m Traverse R on rising ledge to corner. Hard mantelshelf near bolt. Piton belay.

4. 21 m Up and L to eagles' nest (hopefully empty!). Roof (bolt), then corner (crux).

5. 9 m R round corner, up crack for 2 m, then R and up to bolt. Now L and up.

Originally 17,M2 with aid on pitch four.

Start directly below first belay of South Arete, at steep,juggywall.

1. 14 m Wall. Piton Belay.

2. 19 m (crux) R to steep ramp, then through overhanging step. Ramp.

The original route to the top. Exposed. Start at gap between Bread-knife and Butter-knife. Scramble along ridge for 15 m to base of arete.

1. 12 m Two little walls, mantel, then up to pinnacle.

2. 21 m Down, then L round arete to W face. Up and L to gain ridge.

Start as for North Arete.

1. 18 m Arete to piton belay.

2. 24 m Up W side of arete to base of steep wall.

3. 36 m (crux) Up, round overhang, then traverse to ramp on E Face.

4. 18 m Ramp to saddle, then up to N summit.

5. 12 m From saddle, up W Face to S summit.

6. 45 m Ridge to bolt belay on S arete.

The first grade 18 in Australia! Brilliant route-finding.

Start on W Face, at N end of overhang.

1. 21 m Up rotten rock. piton, belay off block.

2. 21m R across yellow wall (pitons) to piton belay.

3. 21 m Up beneath overhang.

4. 15 m R until looking down into central scoop. Slightly L to grey break in yellow overhang above. Up 3 m.

5. 24 m Up steeply (pitons) to good stance.

6. 18 m Up.

7. 15 m Traverse down R.

8. 15 m Traverse R, to R of chimney.

9. 24 m Swing strenuously up wall on R, then L to gully.

10. 15 m Gully

Start 10 m lower than North Arete.

1-7) Up past Heart-stopper to finish up Minor Route. Bolt and piton runners.

Start on W Face, R of gap.

1. 6 m Up break in overhang, then R to tree.

2. 28 m Up until angle eases, then L.

3. 33 m L past bush to piton belay.

4. 35 m R and up. Piton belay.

5. 18 m Gully

Girdle traverse of W side of Bread-knife and Butter-knife. Start as for North Arete.

1-3: 75 m Traverse R past smooth, grey rock and bolts to small stance just before steepening. Bolt or piton.

4: 30 m (crux) Diagonally R to ledge. Steep and exposed.

5-6: 60 m R until diagonally down is easier. Slabby, smooth, greenish rock to ledge.

7: 45 m Traverse R, crossing Minor Route, to below gap between Bread-knife and Butter-knife.

8-11: 105 m Traverse R across Butter-knife to its S arete. Finish up this.

Start at small buttress 18 m L of approach.

1. 18 m Up.

2. 27 m Still up.

3. 33 m L to cracks; up these.

1. 21 m Up to piton belay 12m L of The Sabre.

2. 24m Up steeply to small ledge. Piton belay.

3. 36 m (crux) Up and R, then to yellow niche with hand-crack. Now traverse 5 m L, then wall and bulge to big corner. Up

1. 39 m Up rib 9 m R of Minor Route for 9 m to overlap, then L and up R to small stance.

2. 18 m Traverse 5 m L, then up to slot and piton belay at steepening.

3. 30 m (crux) L and up for 5 m, then back R. Up past pitons, then R to groove. Up.

Well-protected broken crack system at S end on E face. Good solid rock.

Start near the top/southern end of the wall, beneath the gap between the large roofs.

1. 18 m Poor rock 15 m R of Scythe for 6 m, then water-line to ledge.

2. 21 m (crux) R to overhang, then corner Topo has been interpreted. Please update if required.

15m left of The Sickle. Start at black wall below roofs at 25 m.

1. 18 m (crux) Up, then R past prominent blocks. Now up and L to small ledge.

2. 33 m Up to below roofs, then 9 m R round roofs to corner. Up this, then scramble. Topo has been interpreted. Please update if required.

Crack on NW corner at open ledge below flaring roof.

Topo may be incorrect. Please update or confirm.

The left arete.

The right arete.

Another of Eric Dark's triumphs. Of the three peaks he climbed in the Warrumbungles (Crater Bluff, Belougery Spire and Tonduron), Crater Bluff proved the most problematic. It took several attempts over a number of years to find the Tourist Route, and when he and Dot Butler eventually reached the summit by this route they lit a fire to signal their success to the rest of their party. Unfortunately, the fire got out of control while they were building a cairn and much of the summit was set ablaze. Butler, barefoot as usual, had little choice but to sit atop the cairn and wait for the ashes to cool before she and Dark could make their descent.

Scramble 45 m up a series of ramps that begin on N side of W Face, leading R, taking the upper line when there is an alternative. Tree belay.

Start 9 m below a small overhang.

1. 15 m Overhang to pillar above.

2. 18 m Chimney to ledge and tree.

3-4) 30 m Walk R to Green Glacier, then up with care over muddy rocks.

Possibly the hardest multi-pitch in the Bungles. Tackles the major face between 'Crucifixion' and the Tourist Route. This is NOT a sport route - and the rock quality is a bit sub par on pitch 4. Take a double set of cams to fist size, double rack of wires including RPs, at least 15 draws and several long slings. A helmet is also a must.

Starts on right side of east face at section of black steep slabs, aprox 100m left of the rap descent route.

1. 35m (20) Wall (3 FHs) to left facing orange corner with fiddly small gear. At the top of corner step left onto wall (vital small wires) and then up trending slightly right past 2 FHs and several small wires and cams. Belay on ledge at DBB. 5 bolts.

2. 30m (14) Up blocky crackline just to the left of the belay to small ledge belay 3m left of major chossy orange corner (Hex Generation).

3. 25m (22) Straight up tricky wall on trad for 10m to FH, then continue up and right on steep grey wall and arete past a further 4 FHs to final exposed right step across crack into pea-pod belay directly above 'Hex Generation' crackline. 5 bolts.

4. 40m (24) Pumpy technical climbing on the left wall - keeping left of the bolts makes for harder but better climbing. Stay right and experience chossy terror. When the bolts run out follow the corner crack for 25m to comfy big ledge. 6 bolts.

5. 48m (24) Move belay to double bolts at far left end of ledge. Up slab and out left across face with couple of tough moves. Finish up epic wall with a section of micro wires supplementing the bolts. Belay on ledge at double rings. This is the last opportunity to rap off. 9 bolts.

6. 45m (14) Up blocky line above then leftwards up easy angled corner on lovely rock. Belay on trad when you can.

7. 40m (14) Continue up leftwards leaning easy crack line to summit. Traverse ridge and then down the Green 'Gully'.

The major orange crackline splitting the right side of the east face. Appallingly chossy. There was an old hex jammed in the crack halfway up - most likely a bail-off piece as the crack above held several 'fun' death block surprises for the first ascent team. Start by climbing Verdun for 2 pitches then setup a trad belay 2m right of the bolt belay. Swing right from the belay into corner. Wade and chimney through epic choss (but good gear!) until the crack suddenly narrows and the walls begin to blank. Jam upwards whilst lobbing off bombs onto your cowering belayers to grovel into pea-pod belay. Thank the lord that there is now two bolts here to belay off, and not the man sized pile of rubble that first confronted the first ascent team. A rest was resorted to on the first ascent due to adrenaline overload.

Looks good, follows diagonal lines of good holds and breaks. Quite runout by repute. The first pitch has had most bolts replaced. Start atop the gully/ramp leading up past Lieben on higher left end of ledge. Good wire belay. Many original carrots are now redundant with modern gear, most importantly the manky BR on pitch 3 belay.

1. 36m Up diagonally left easily for 16m to original BR a few meters left of good cam horizontal, then hard bulge up onto run-out face trending right, new bolt with fixed hanger, then diagonally right for 16m (another new FH) to new DBB (FH's).

2. 24m Diag R for 9m on small poor pro, up 3m to good gear and bolt. Up, left toward nice little ledge and bolt. A block hanging just before belay can be climbed around as it is above your belayer. Bolt redundant with higher cams.

3. 24m Diag R for 11m up ramp to bolt round a small buttress. Same rising diagonal line over blocks to manky bolt. Semi hanging belay. (Small to medium cams and #2 cam hanging belay 2m left of poor bolt).

4. 27m Right to bolt , up then left towards a scoop, then easier rock keeping on right side of 'chimney cum gully', to a good ledge, 2m long and over 1 ft wide with piton. Note: This is not the vegetated base of 'Chimney cum Gully'. Belay is higher and on right.

5. 45m (crux) Up the wall on small gully's right to 30m vertical wall. Move left, then up the wall. After moving right slightly on ramp a bolt runner is found 30 meters vertically above your second. "one could belay here in slings" ..instead continue a further 13m to a small ledge above, below a chimney. Rock knob belay.

6, 7, 8) 90m etc up chimney and slabs to a pleasant slab buttress to top.

As per 'The Crucifixion' for three pitches, then taking similarly sustained and engaging line of features between Lieben and Crucifixion past distinguishable 'gully cum chimney' in centre of West face onward to left most large orange cave and chimney. Bring double rack including rps and micro cams up to cam #3 and also a #4 cam useful. 60m double ropes essential with good rope management.

1. As for The Crucifixion

2. As for The Crucifixion

3. As for The Crucifixion

4. 24m. From hanging belay, clip manky BR then continue up on good dark rock and poor pro for 8m until climbing leads left, then head across left airily to comfortable base of 'gully cum chimney'. Crucifixions smaller belay ledge is visible above and right from here. Opt for larger (#1 and #3 cam) belay on left side of ledge as leader might want all the small gear for next 50m pitch.

5. 50m. Take rising line on left until gingerly surmounting highest feature onto vertical face. Good climbing leads to selection of very small gear then onward to small orange pod. Place and extend crucial #3 cam then out left a few meters through pleasant overhang onto lichenous solid features (this is the highest rightmost tip of the green rock patches to the right and above big grassy ledge of Lieben), then another 20m bridging straight up through grey crack/gully (very useful #4 cam) to belay directly under large overhanging orange cavern. RP very high on left and very good gear in brown rock on right. Chordelette useful unless you have double 70m ropes. Despite spacious area, gear dictates a semi hanging belay.

6. 40m. Up on poor rock with average pro left of cave. Some solid gear eventually in difficult to see vertical crack at approximately 10m on left (small tuft of grass), then up as you wish to jug on left of steepness. Hard move above gear surmounting bulge(crux?)on excellent rock. Continue all the way up to the higher of two very spacious ledges at 40m. The upper face and right trending corner of Lieben is now visible on your left.

7. 40-50m. Ever so slightly down and left around bulge then up joining final ramble of Lieben, Leavin, Leider on right side of obvious vegetated large gully.

Stat: Direct start to 'Crucifixion'.

Easy start on trad, then techy face past three FHs to runout scary finish on shallow small wires to double bolt anchor at end of 'Crucifixion' pitch 1.

A wild excursion up a huge face and was Australia's hardest climb for many years. An outstanding achievement by Allen. No big gear required, just heaps of small to medium wires and single set of cams. Long runners will help.

Start: In the middle of the west face is a white water streak (about 50m to the right of the large one about 20m from the far LHS).

1. 25m (1) Original route cheated by scrambling up the vegetated gully on the right un-roped (grade 1). Real climbers should just climb the rambly wall to the left of the vegetated gully to a small ledge right of the bottom of the white streak.

2. 30m (15) Straight up face to belay on a ledge about 5m up and right of top of white streak.

3. 25m (16) Keep heading left (fiddly gear) on a roughly 45 degree angle until you reach a corner. Head straight up this and belay after 5m or so.

4. 45m (17) Crux. Either up the rib on the right of the corner, or up the steep juggy corner. At 20m step right to small edge (manky BR and optional belay) or continue up crack line above. Belay on huge ledge about 2/3 height of entire west face.

5. 40m (16) Crack tending slightly right then basically straight up to the top.

6. 35m (10) Keep going up the very easy rocky ridge to the top

Years after climbing this I spoke to Rick White (RIP) and challenged him on the Pocket guide grade of 18 and description. He denied ever writing it up and said “it’s at least grade 20, and there is no probably about the run out”. Previous description: Not very direct, probably runout.

1. 18m Trend up left to base of white streaks.

2. 30m Right and up from stance. Back left and up onto obvious traverse line. Left and up onto the white streak, up left to roove. Easily up ramp to Lieben stance 1. The description you need to read: “The most dangerous pitch I’ve ever climbed by a sizeable margin. Grade 20 crimp crux 10m out from a worthless RP in loose rock above a long chain of 7m run outs between worthless RPs. Guaranteed ground fall from 45m if you fail the test. We climbed it in 1 long pitch as couldn’t find two pieces to even pretend a belay anywhere along the pitch. Enjoy” Mark Rewi

A proper direct start to Lieben or a good pitch on it's own. Easy route finding as it is very direct. Start about 10m left of the white streak below Lieben. Up corner for 10m and then head up wall in the 12.30 direction. Hard past 2 bolts then past good gear in breaks and more bolts to rap station. Lieben leaves the groove above about 10m higher.

Direct line to the final pitches of Leider.

Start: 15m R of the large white streak on the L side of the W face. The climb starts on a small pedestal 7m off ground. Scramble from R, or walk on from L.

1. 48m (17) Step up R onto face. Pitch drifts R past incipient twin seams to the higher of two narrow sloping ledges. Take many small wires.

2. 50m (17) Step off L end of ledge. Unlikely, exposed, blind moves up L around blunt arete. Up and trend L around steepening on L side. Up to spacious ledge. Take care with rope drag.

3. 38m (17) Take slab up past loose blocks to old bolt(!?) at 38m

4. 25m (-) Up rightwards on imperfect apricot coloured rock to wide crack of Leider. Up to stance

5. 25m (-) Follow Rib to R side of plant choked gully

6. 25m (-) Follow Rib to R side of plant choked gully

Supposed to be quite good. If you want to suss out 'Lieben' before committing to it, this is the way to do it.

Start: About 50m up and right of the start of 'Cornerstone Rib' at base of rightward leading crack system. An obvious R tending traverse that leads toward base of gully beneath two Orange overhangs. This was where the famous photo of Dot Butler (bare footed and with a rope tied around her waste) was taken.

A #4 cam and double set of C3s including smallest is useful on top of typical rack. Can be done in less pitches.

1. 30m Easily up right. Belay level with or slightly higher than base of gully.

2. 30m Right and into gully, up grey rock on right keeping left of water washed rock until last unprotected 6m to avoid overhangs, then up to an obvious large platform with a bolt.

3. 33m Up and around right arete with care, continue up right to grassy ledge..still caring. A wiggly piton on belay confirms your on your way.

4. 34m The direct line is right up black cracks past a small Morton Bay fig tree to belay on ledge at base of gully. Alternatively take a better quality line further right from the cracks which ends on a grassy belay ledge with a large fig tree. From here traverse directly left 12m back to the base of gully.

5. 24m Up gully to water washed crux protected by bolts (visible from belay) though adequate modern protection exists. Hard moves on great (sometimes wet) rock slightly left to belay just left and beneath chimney.

6. 15m Engaging short face on left to Chimney type gully to a large chockstone.

7. 18m Bridge up right then out to tree. This is the lowermost and largest of the teatrees in the vegetated gully, protruding over the cliff and most visible from ground. Its trunk is about 1m in diameter and it sprawls with vigour over the terrain you wish to cover at end of an otherwise very good pitch (or two).

8. 70m Scramble to top on right side of vegetated gully.

The striking arete to the right of Cornerstone Rib.

There has been some debate about this line (and Reluctance Rib). Most Old Timers agree that the line is the arete but the description from the 1994 Rock Guide seems to be for a very different line. A very bold undertaking for 1954 (8 years before an ascent of Cornerstone Rib) that was not repeated until 1964!

1-3) 90 m Cornerstone Rib to large ledge.

'4) 20 m Scramble down and right out to the base of the arete

'5-6) 70 m Climb the arete. Sparse pro on pitch 6.

'7) 30 m Continue with difficulty up the broken arete on worsening rock to the top or climb up and left across the gully and join up with the top of Cornerstone Rib.

The 1994 Rock guide described the upper pitches as:

'4) 21m Traverse right 6m to a ramp type ledge which goes up to the right for 9m into a corner, piton runner. Up corner then traverse left to a gully.

'5) 12m Up gully to old piton. Right slightly to a home made piton at base of some rotten rock.

'6) 21m Left up wall (good rock) which continues to the rib. Up rib to a piton belay on loose rock.

'7) 15m Continue up rib to gully on the left which leads to top of Rib and Gully.