Ascents in Wolgan Valley

exposed and satisfying crux

OK layback to avoid finger lock. P1 only.

First pitch lead onsight - first trad lead ever.

Led P1,2, a bit hard to get onto, a bit slippery to start

looked better than it climbed

Fantastic route, climbed with Chris

Greasy fingerlocks. Punchy route. P1 (crux) only. Have done P2 (low-grade choss) before. With Alison Curtin.

Pitch 1 OS - Great crack climbing minus the sand cave. Glad I didn't read Heath Black ascent, I was stuck in the off-width contemplating my demise before face climbing around it on the right. Pitch 2/3 Clean 2nd - Still good climbiing for a while before it got dirty.

Lead p1-2. Seconded p3. Another classic crackline. Better than most of the classic 18-19 crack routes at piddo.

One committing move before the first bolt (wires in flame below) then cruisy and pleasant. Take threads.

Good slabbing.

Amazing route! As good as Sizzler! One sustained 60m pitch of sick, steep handcrack to the top of lower baldy. Face splitter. Sensational. One of the best routes on Lower Baldy. Tree belay then easy scramble up to upper baldy.

Another slight disappointment.

The second pitch of this climb is really good! 3-stars though? I would say, no. I compare the pitch to Blimp down in the grampians and it is not as good as that. Pitches 1 and 3 are somewhere between forgettable and bad. I would probably drop the whole route down to 1 star, but the selection of good trad corners in Blue Mountains is lacking so I'll leave it with 2.

Sensational! Looked super burly turned out to be technical with not one burly move.

Awesome climbing. The stemming is sensational.

Excellent line. Nice move around the arete on pitch 2. We added one pitch to this climb, we went diagonally up left to meet another climbing party at the top of cactus. The rap down from top of cactus can be done on one 70m rope and will, with stretch, JUST reach the next rap rings. 35m rap to ground from there.

so much choss! first 10m is good. followed by 30m of questionable holds and questionable placements.

I led pitch one then Jean linked pitches 2 and three. Need a bit of rope management to keep it out of the crack at the top of pitch 2. 2 stage rap down the face to the right on a 60m rope (just reaches, tie knots).

This is a great climb, the first pitch is nice technical bridging, the second is easier than it looks from the ground and interesting pulling around the arete. The final pitch is still good climbing.

Rock is a bit scungy and feels like some of the holds in the scoop might just pull off but the climbing is fun. Bring a wire for the slot before the bolt and another for the first bolt because the neck of the bolt was very fat

great rock and the crack climbing is nice and varied. The start could now very well be the crux

Super fun to climb as as one mega pitch.

Good. Gear was .75 friend behind flake at start, 3/bolt plates and thread 2 slings. Crux is moving in to first scoop.

Excelent technical face climbing! 7 bolt plates, dbl rack .5 - #2 friends, 2 smal- medium nuts. Lower off from chains. 60m rope just gets you down.

Lead pitches 1 and 2 in one. Still not sure what the trick move is(?)

Pretty sure I did this back in the day and probably on sight so will tick repeat as such ... Gear is fine,if not optional at start, same with directional in roof if placed... certainly does not need any extra bolts, will fix description...

Finally got on this one. Done in one pitch. Double rack with triples in 0.75 and 1 was more than enough. All in all its a good route! And a fast way to get to the half way ledge. Couple of sections with good jamming! Could use more traffic though! The top was a bit dirty and the fires probably added debrit. You top out between 2 trees. I belayed from the right one, comfortably standing on a little jaggered arete below it. Then we scrambled up to do Central direct (which is directly above). On the descent we retraced our steps back to where ghoul tops out (we lowered each other/rapped, as everything is very loose on the half way ledge) and then rapped back down 60m from the other tree (on the right side of ghoul top out - facing out) Where we left a 7mm prussic cord to rapp off.

Such an enjoyable route! Linked the first two pitches together as one long, fun corner. Bomber gear the whole way, and fun moves throughout. All these holds keep appearing on the faces just as you expect to have to pull hard corner/stemming moves. Move out on the arete took a little bit of commitment but very enjoyable!

Ben led and linked the first two pitches, which were awesome - a great technical stemming corner with a very cool move around onto the arete. P3 was just a pleasant amble to the top. I reckon getting off the ground could almost be the crux on this one

2nd led, Ben led 1st and 3rd.

Did only first pitch due to limited time.

Absolutely stellar route, crazy watching a huge rain storm coming up the valley and passing us by staying completely dry in the corner !!!!

Nice climb with some good jams, a tad dirty in places, lead the whole thing in one pitch.

The first third of this route was pretty good but quite dirty. The rest, after the garden hanging in the crack where it widens to body size, was pretty unpleasant. It was so dirty and the line becomes unclear. Done as one 59m pitch. The belay position on top is crappy and you need to then rope up for the climb and scramble up for some time to the base of the upper cliff.

I have given this one star for the crack at the start. If it and the rest of the route are reasonably clean it would be a pretty good line. Get on Secret Swinger instead. Excellent line with far better access from top to the upper cliff base.

Only had time for the first pitch, but it was great! I can't wait to come back and do the whole thing.

Only the first pitch.

Unreal, really stellar jam line.

Bottom half is awesome! I followed the crack all the way to the top, but wasn't really worth it. Probably more bang for your buck to just rap down from the anchors on 'Absolutely Sweet Marie'.