Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 29th May 2017 | ||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 29th May 2017 | ||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 27th May 2017 | ||||
Excellent climbing, though bring plenty of hand size cams/hexes. Bring some long tape if spare, as the ones currently there look quite worn.
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16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Jul 2017 | ||||
All smiles and brown underwear
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16 | ★ Grunter | 51m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sun 9th Oct 2016 | ||||
The 1984 guide talks about belaying at the second tree roughly 25m up - I think that tree's fallen off?
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16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Jul 2017 | ||||
Ran out of big cams so traversed right to Bartons Effort rap chains
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16 | ★ Grunter - with Jamie Spencer | 51m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sat 5th Aug 2017 | ||||
Led Both pitches with Jamie seconding. Set up first trad anchor. enjoyable.
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16 | ★★ Room to Move | 65m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Sep 2017 | ||||
16 | ★★ Secret Swinger | 74m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2017 | ||||
16 | ★★ Secret Swinger | 74m | Wolgan Valley | Sun 1st Oct 2017 | |||||
Interesting
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16 | ★★ Secret Swinger | 74m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Mon 2nd Oct 2017 | ||||
Linked all of the pitches and lead it as one giant pitch (about 50-55m). Great climbing and good pro most of the way up. We were going to link up with Excalibur but my friend wasn't feeling well so she lowered off the first pitch (a bit of booty gear for the person climbing next! )
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16 | ★★ May Day Mayday | 16m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Oct 2017 | ||||
16 | ★★ Secret Swinger | 74m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th Oct 2017 | ||||
Really good! Did the whole thing as a single mega-pitch. The last 10m are a bit rubbish, but everything else is great fun!
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16 | ★★ Room to Move - with Lachlan | 65m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Apr 2018 | ||||
Lachlan led p2
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16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Mitch | 22m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 21st Apr 2018 | |||||
16 | ★★ Secret Swinger - with Mitch | 74m | Wolgan Valley | Mon 23rd Apr 2018 | |||||
16 | ★★ Room to Move - with Mitch | 65m | Wolgan Valley | Sun 27th May 2018 | |||||
Nice! I do think I may have preferred secret swinger a little over this one.
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16 | ★★ Secret Swinger - with Donald Gibson, Roman, Mitch | 74m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sun 27th May 2018 | ||||
went up this one to get to the top level. great!!
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16 | ★★ Secret Swinger - with tim, Tim Osborne, Roman, mitch, o, Mitch | 74m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th May 2018 | ||||
The appetiser,
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16 | ★ Grunter - with Andrew Stevenson | 51m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Jun 2018 | ||||
I enjoy this type of thing but my partner didn't. The top section was quite dirty. The first pitch up to the tree makes a great beginner corner.
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16 | ★★ No Complications - with Ian Hofstetter | 57m | Wolgan Valley | Thu 11th Sep 1975 | |||||
16 | ★ Grunter - with Ian Hofstetter | 51m | Wolgan Valley | Fri 16th Sep 1977 | |||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy - with Ian Hofstetter | 45m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 17th Sep 1977 | |||||
16 | ★★ Kindergarten Crack - with Ian Hofstetter | 30m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 17th Sep 1977 | |||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Ramon Francis | 22m | Wolgan Valley | Wed 25th Jul 2018 | |||||
16 | ★★ No Complications | 57m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Wed 9th Jan 2019 | ||||
16 | ★★ Room to Move - with Richard | 65m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Mon 14th Jan 2019 | ||||
bloody hard start! I found this way harder than Scimitar as the jams were quite tight for me
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16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Stubbsy | 22m | Wolgan Valley | Sun 7th Jul 2019 | |||||
This pitch is bloody awesome! a really really good warmup. Plus there is an amazing Clog + Thread anchor to rap off!
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16 | ★ Grunter - with Stubbsy | 51m | Wolgan Valley | Sun 7th Jul 2019 | |||||
Warmup of the day this is a long route! stitched myself up with taking a light double racks got to the anchor with 4 nuts left woooooo!
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16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with hugh sutherland | 22m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Tue 27th Aug 2019 | ||||
I definitely sandbagged the crap out of myself by not having even close to enough 2's and 3's. I never took, but essentially climbed and down-climbed several cruxes in order to retrieve 2's and 3's so I could walk them. I think I had 4 pieces in this whole route besides a couple in the bottom horizontals. Note to self: Take 3's of 2's and 3's next time.
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16 | ★★ Conspiracy - with Andrew | 45m | Wolgan Valley | Mon 9th Sep 2019 | |||||
16 |
★★ Secret Swinger
- with
Marco de Jongh
1
16
74m
2
| 74m | Wolgan Valley | Mon 30th Sep 2019 | |||||
Lead as one 65m pitch. Takes passive pro better than cams. Big hexes would’ve been good.
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16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Daniel Bush | 22m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Sep 2019 | ||||
This is beautiful!
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16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Tom Bes | 22m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Thu 25th Jun 2020 | ||||
Corner, crack, many yellow c4s, great stances. Did use a 4 up top. Just watch some of the hardware on your rope-or don't and you'll be fine. Enjoy pulling the rope and thank the Wolgan Titans for assisting you in the process.
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16 | ★★ Secret Swinger | 74m | Wolgan Valley | Fri 10th Jul 2020 | |||||
16 | ★★ Secret Swinger - with Lorraine | 74m | Wolgan Valley | Mon 14th Sep 2020 | |||||
16 | ★★ Secret Swinger - with Anna | 74m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Sep 2020 | ||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy - with geordie | 45m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Sep 2020 | ||||
16 | ★★ No Complications | 57m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Oct 2020 | ||||
Bit dirty but quite nice corner climbing
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16 | ★★ Secret Swinger | 74m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Oct 2020 | ||||
Done to access the upper Baldy cliffline
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16 | Dirty Sally | 70m | Wolgan Valley | Average | Sat 10th Oct 2020 | ||||
Got a little lost finding the way in. Ended up on this one. I was not sure what climb it was until I got home.
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16 | ★ Grunter | 51m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sat 10th Oct 2020 | ||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Oct 2020 | ||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy - with Jenny Gao, Lis, Cedric, James, Ryan Armstrong, james ritchie, Ben Taylor, Katja Gavran | 45m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Oct 2020 | ||||
Climbed with Jenny Gao , really fun climbing! Did it in one pitch and traversed to the right to the next climb's chains for the abseil.
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16 |
★★ Room to Move
- with
lew
1
16
45m
2
20m
| 65m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Thu 22nd Oct 2020 | ||||
Weird start then it gets better. Burnt tree has fallen onto the crack at the top. So I did some run out face clinbing around it (easy) makes it a better climb for sure ahaha
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16 | ★★ Secret Swinger - with Jenny Gao | 74m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Nov 2020 | ||||
A few moves felt more like 18. Excellent climb.
Did this in one long pitch with 60m ropes.
Also rapped down in one go with rope to spare.
There was a rope and million set up off two trees.
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16 | ★★ Secret Swinger | 74m | Wolgan Valley | Fri 2nd Oct 2020 | |||||
16 | ★ Grunter - with Anton Korsun | 51m | Wolgan Valley | Mon 11th Jan 2021 | |||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Brandon | 22m | Wolgan Valley | Mon 11th Jan 2021 | |||||
16 | ★ Grunter | 51m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 12th Jan 2021 | |||||
In 2 pitches.
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16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Josephine Roper | 22m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Mon 8th Mar 2021 | ||||
What an amazing line. This thing eats #2s for breakfast. Found good placements for the occasional #1 and #3 (albeit overcammed). Crack does seem to flare inwards at places, so check your #1 placements. Brought doubles, and still had a #2 left when I reached the anchor - I did run it out a bit. #4 for the top useful, but it's easy terrain.
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16 |
★★ Secret Swinger
- with
Josephine Roper
| 72m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Mar 2021 | ||||
Great varied climbing. Climbed this to access Scimitar on the upper cliff. Unfortunately quite dirty in places. Patches with questionable rock, and a big death block that I wouldn't touch unless you want to save your belayer the hike out. I realize this doesn't sound appealing, but it was really fun!
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16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th Apr 2021 | ||||
16 | ★ Grunter | 51m | Wolgan Valley | Mon 12th Apr 2021 | |||||
second pitch is very sandy
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16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | Wolgan Valley | Thu 12th Aug 2021 | |||||
Absolutely stella
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16 |
★★ Secret Swinger
2
15m
| 70m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Jan 2022 | ||||
16 |
★★ Conspiracy
- with
Alex Mantaut
| 45m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Feb 2022 | ||||
Really cool, cruisy climbing! Did it in two pitches, I lead the first, Alex lead the second.
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16 | ★★ Room to Move - with Mungo Skyring | 65m | Wolgan Valley | Wed 16th Feb 2022 | |||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Jun 2022 | ||||
16 | ★★ Secret Swinger | 74m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Mon 27th Jun 2022 | ||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | Wolgan Valley | Sun 2nd May 2021 | |||||
16 | ★ Grunter Direct Finish - with Jimmy O'Reilly, Ally | 25m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 10th Apr 2021 | |||||
16 |
★★ Conspiracy
1
2
| 45m | Wolgan Valley | Sun 2nd Oct 2022 | |||||
16 | ★★ Secret Swinger - with Angela Ha | 74m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Thu 25th Apr 2024 | ||||
An epic climb, super fun going around the rooflet when starting P2
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15 | ★★ Monkey Business | 30m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
15 | ★★ Monkey Business | 30m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Jun 2008 | ||||
Pleasant way to end the day
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15 | ★★ Monkey Business | 30m | Wolgan Valley | Average | 2003 | ||||
15 | ★ Cool Tool | 18m | Wolgan Valley | Average | Sat 24th Feb 2007 | ||||
was a bit wet. left ankle injury = no jamming.
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15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 1st Oct 2005 | |||||
15 | ★ Cool Tool | 18m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Feb 2008 | ||||
15 | ★★ Monkey Business | 30m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Mon 26th Apr 2004 | ||||
Another epic climb...undoubtedly one of the best 15's, easy to protect...NOTE: You can abseil down both P1 & P2 (on 60m rope) despite P2 is 33m. Dad Second.
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15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Fri 10th Jun 2005 | ||||
Nice first pitch. Easy to top.
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15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Oct 2008 | ||||
P1 (crux) only. Lovely line. Trad. With MP.
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15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sun 27th Jan 2008 | ||||
nice and thin... and interesting..
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15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | 1999 | ||||
15 | ★★ Monkey Business | 30m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Jul 2005 | ||||
15 | F Flat | 48m | Wolgan Valley | Average | Sun 1st May 2005 | ||||
Looks good but collects lots of debris. Climbing is good in middle section.
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15 | ★ Cool Tool | 18m | Wolgan Valley | Average | Fri 15th Mar 2002 | ||||
15 | Blasphemy Variant | 15m | Wolgan Valley | 1999 | |||||
horrid & dirty
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15 | ★★ Organ Grinder Variant II (Organ Grinder II) | 36m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Jul 2004 | ||||
easier thant he 14 pitch below it, great gear, good climing.
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15 | ★★ Monkey Business | 30m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
15 | ★ Cool Tool | 18m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Mar 2005 | ||||
one of many cool warmups
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15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd Jan 2007 | ||||
15 | ★★ Monkey Business | 30m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Thu 26th Aug 2004 | ||||
15 | ★★ Monkey Business | 30m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Apr 2011 | ||||
Plenty of work at grade 15
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15 | ★ Out of this World | 71m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Apr 2011 | ||||
Off width fun with Dr C. Me P1, he P2. Both felt equal crux. Damp and slippery.
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15 | Blasphemy | 54m | Wolgan Valley | Sun 25th Nov 1990 | |||||
15 | ★★ Monkey Business | 30m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Fri 31st May 2013 | ||||
Excellent second pitch - the money combo is P1 Organ Gringer and P2 Monkey business
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15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Mon 7th Oct 2013 | ||||
Very nice. First pitch only then rap off the tree. Left a biner on the sling to make it easier.
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15 | ★ Out of this World | 71m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sat 19th Jul 2014 | ||||
Don't forget small cams like I did, it's super sketch without them.
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15 | ★ Out of this World | 71m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Sat 8th Oct 2016 | ||||
Tree in an awkward position at the start, so I embraced it with a hug ;o)
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15 | F Flat | 48m | Wolgan Valley | Average | Sun 30th Jul 2017 | ||||
Would be better with more traffic to clear the lichen and leaf litter debris in the crack. Belayer needs an umbrella ;o)
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15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2017 | ||||
15 | ★★ Zarathustra - with Ian Hoffstetter | 70m | Wolgan Valley | Thu 11th Sep 1975 | |||||
15 | ★★ Tupelo Honey - with Ian Hofstetter | 42m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 17th Sep 1977 | |||||
15 | ★★ Monkey Business | 30m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Tue 2nd Jul 2019 | ||||
15 | ★★ Tupelo Honey - with Brendon Yiu | 42m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Aug 2019 | ||||
Very long my goodness, was worried about gear but ended up saving my big gear for the end
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15 | ★ Cardiff Rose - with Lis, Cedric, James, Katja Gavran, Jenny Gao, Ryan Armstrong, james ritchie, Ben Taylor | 48m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Fri 9th Oct 2020 | ||||
Nice route, quite hard start!
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