Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 ~19 | ★★★ Sizzler - with Angela Ha | 81m | |||||
Tried P1 of sizzler and absolutely sizzled in the sun. Eventually used some sport climber beta to overcome the overhang and sweated my way up through the jams. Condiiis!
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17 | ★★ Sap - with Angela Ha | 55m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another awesome hand crack, Wolgan does not disappoint. Just did P1
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Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Cactus - with Angela Ha | 78m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I led pitch one and how good! Fun stemming and jamming, had to push myself on this one. Ange led P2 which had a cruxy bit at the start and then felt much easier
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18 | ★★ Decline and Fall - with Angela Ha | 99m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
An awesome finger crack with good feet and face holds. Just did P1
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Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Upper Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Excalibur - with Angela Ha | 100m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
An absolutely epic line! Mental crux was definitely the cavey bit at the top of P1, which ange crushed through on lead. Had my own little spicy moment on one of the overhangs later on. So good watching the sunset from the top, managed to make our way down the overgrown gully without having the cops called 😛
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Secret Swinger - with Angela Ha | 74m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
An epic climb, super fun going around the rooflet when starting P2
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Angela Ha, Mira, James, Alina | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What an awesome crack! Lovely jams and awesome laybacking
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19 ~17 | ★ Agent Orange - with Angela Ha, Mira, James, Alina | 90m, 3 | |||||
First climb in the Wolgan! Fun going up through the scoops, felt rather easy
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 Easy | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) - with Flynn Howley | 22m | |||||
Fri 15th Mar 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★★ Sap - with Flynn Howley | 55m | |||||
Thu 14th Mar 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
17 ~16 | ★★ Sap | 55m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
14 | ★★ Organ Grinder | 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Amazing first pitch. Lower off rings, top pitch is choss anyways
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Tue 13th Jun 2023 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Tranzister | 40m | |||||
20 | ★★★ TDM | 35m | |||||
Tue 13th Jun 2023 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Sizzler P1
1
30m
| 30m | |||||
Thu 16th Mar 2023 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler | 81m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 3rd Oct 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1) | 22m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So good I forgot to place gear for half the pitch.
Awwweeeesome. Keen to come back for the full route but ran out of day. |
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19 | ★★★ The Knuckle | 52m | |||||
Superb. The overhanging changing corners weirdness on pitch 2 is stupidly good. Linked p1 and p2 together.
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Mon 3rd Oct 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★★ Helzapoppin | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Astoundingly good trad slabbing.
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20 | ★★ Frodo | 51m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Increasingly thin. Awesome long pitch.
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Sun 2nd Oct 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
15 | ★★ Tupelo Honey | 42m | |||||
19 | ★ Positively 4th Street | 43m | |||||
16 |
★★ Conspiracy
1
2
| 45m | |||||
14 |
★ Absolutely Sweet Marie P1
1
| 58m | |||||
14 | ★ Absolutely Sweet Marie | 58m | ★ Good | ||||
19 | ★ Positively 4th Street | 43m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
16 |
★★ Conspiracy
1
16
45m
2
| 45m | ★ Good | ||||
15 | ★★ Tupelo Honey | 42m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Soaking wet in the crack.
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Sat 1st Oct 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Eldorado | |||||||
18 |
★★ Cymbeline
1
2
| 75m, 1 | |||||
18 | ★★ Cymbeline | 75m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quality climbing with good gear. Clean and dry when everything else at the crag were very dirty.
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Fri 30th Sep 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 |
★★★ The Knuckle P1
1
| 52m | |||||
17 |
★★ Sap
1
2
3
| 55m | |||||
Mon 27th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Upper | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Dr Freeze | 82m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great movement in a spectcular position. Access via the western gully was an adventure in itself.
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Mon 27th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Secret Swinger | 74m | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 27th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Upper Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Such an awesome route and position. Charging to the top of old baldy blind had a feeling of old school adventure with the benefits of modern protection. The overhung crack and dihedral sections were great.
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Mon 27th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Cactus | 78m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler | 81m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus
- with
Sean Peters
| 86m | |||||
All the stemming and lots of finger crack.
Linked P1-2 and P3-4. Topped out because I missed the final ring bolts (they're left around an arete and not visible when following the crack). Even though the last 10m is pretty average pro/climbing, just finishing at the bolts seems anti-climactic anyway. Gear: triples to 3 and wires when linking; preserve small cams. |
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19 |
★★★ Sizzler (Sizzler P1)
- with
Sean Peters
1
19
30m
| 30m | |||||
Oops. Slipped out of the thin hands above the overhang. Stiff warmup!
Also RIP one of the footholds below the overhang. |
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18 |
★★★ Sizzler (Sizzler P1)
- with
Sean Peters
1
30m
| 30m | |||||
Got some better hand jams at the overhang and then a very high left foot.
The fist jam section felt hard! Some serious exertion between the rest positions on this one - felt a little sick by the end and struggled to even lift the rope to clip the anchors. Cool crack moves throughout - even used hand stacks in the final offwidth. (Maybe questionable RP ethics here: I didn't clean the pieces I fell on and started above the first juggy moves). Gear: crack gets continually wider... singles .3-.75,3x1,3x2,2x3,2x4, bolt plate |
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Sun 12th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler | 81m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
15 17 | ★★ Sap - with David | 55m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
21 | ★★★ In the Name of Morality | 65m | |||||
one of the best lines on Cook Ovens which surprisingly does not get that many ascents.
Definitely can and should be done as a single pitch. First part will consume all your big gear (not bigger than 4) while the second part will go on small cams and medium nuts. on the softer side of 21
70m rope JUST reaches the ground on the stretch on the abseil
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Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ TDM | 35m | |||||
one of my favourites in Wolgan. really cool move through the roof followed by sustained and super good finger-locking sequences. Didn't do well on the onsight but was able to send it on my second trip no probs. foot slipped a few times and I was hanging just on my fingerlocks - that's how good they are!
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21 | ★★★ Tranzister | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
not my cup of tea really. would give it two stars for trick and powerful crux but otherwise... some easy pre-crux climbing on average rock followed by not-so-cracky climbing along the sandy seam with some smallish nuts for pro (does accept a couple of good pieces though). Some might like it but I prefer long clean finger-size crack offered by TDM
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Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
21 | ★★★ In the Name of Morality - with Dmitry Linkov | 65m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
my favourite in coke ovens
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Sat 21st May 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Sizzler | 81m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great jam crack! Only had one #4 so bumped it until I could no longer then just ran it out. Pumpy getting through the overhang before being established in the crack
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Sun 8th May 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★ Planet Waves - with Hugh Ward | 70m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 7th May 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Corregidor - with Hugh Ward | 43m, 16 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
22 | ★★★ Red Hot 'n' Blue - with Hugh Ward | 54m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
18 | ★★ Spaghetti Western - with Hugh Ward | 55m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 4th May 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 |
★★★ The Knuckle
- with
Martin Cankov
1
19
52m
2
3
| 52m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 4th May 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | ★ Good | ||||
19 | ★★ Ghoul - with Martin Cankov | 60m | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 18th Apr 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
16 |
★★ Secret Swinger
1
16
50m
2
24m
| 74m | |||||
Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Upper Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Scimitar
- with
root
1
18
50m
2
17
40m
| 90m | |||||
Access via Secret Swinger. The scramble up the left side of pedestal is a touch sketchy. Linked climb into 2 pitches. Tree anchors at the top are no longer usable, save some gear to build an anchor. The rap off stiletto gets you down to the base of the pedestal avoiding the dodgy down climb.
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Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★ Zoro's Toaster - with root, Cait Campbell, ally | 28m | |||||
17 |
★★ Aquiline (Aquiline P1)
- with
root, Cait Campbell, ally
1
17
63m
2
| 63m | |||||
First pitch only
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16 | ★★ Secret Swinger | 74m | |||||
And again as a single pitch to access Scimitar
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Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Upper Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Scimitar
1
16
91m
2
18
3
17
4
17
| 91m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Epic views over the wolgan with a spicy chimney
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
17 |
★★ Aquiline P1
1
17
63m
| 63m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Favourite line of the long weekend, big move through cave and sweet face crack
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17 | ★ Zoro's Toaster | 28m | |||||
Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus (Cactus P1)
- with
root
1
18
21m
2
18
15m
3
18
30m
4
16
20m
| 86m | |||||
First pitch only, nice chimney moves
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14 |
★★ Organ Grinder (Organ Grinder P1)
1
14
30m
2
| 30m | |||||
First climb at the Wolgan. First pitch only, inside crack still damp.
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18 |
★★★ Cactus P1
1
18
21m
| 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome finger crack
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14 | ★★ Organ Grinder | 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First time climbing on gear, sick!
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Sat 9th Apr 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ The Wars of the Roses - with Dmitry Linkov | 72m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mar 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★★ The Knuckle - with Sophie Lewandowski | 52m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Everything feels wild in wolgan, great day
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Wed 23rd Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
The Badlands | |||||||
21 | FA ★★★ The Badlands | 70m | |||||
20 | FA ★★★ Arete Central | 35m, 6 | |||||
21 | FA ★★★ The house Jack built | 30m, 3 | |||||
FFA.
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20 | FA ★★ Acoustic Corner | 80m | |||||
20 | FA ★★ Home by six | 70m | |||||
20 | FA ★ Tears of the sun | 45m, 1 | |||||
18 | ★★ Via Appia. | 55m, 8 | |||||
20 | ★★ Interregnum | 55m, 15 | |||||
22 | FA ★★★ Knights of Cydonia | 60m | |||||
FFA.
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19 | FA ★ Off Limits | 40m | |||||
Wed 23rd Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
20 | FA ★ The Last Samurai | 70m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
21 | ★★ The Slider | 60m | |||||
Wed 23rd Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Crossing The Rubicon | 38m | |||||
20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort | 35m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
22 | ★★★ Red Hot 'n' Blue | 54m | |||||
23 | ★★★ Chrysalis | 35m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort | 35m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
have climbed numerous times. one of the better face routes at the grade in the wolgan
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20 | ★★ Full Tilt | 55m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
great and engaging climbing. only done the once but would repeat.
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16 | ★★ Conspiracy | 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
a good expereince not sure i would repeat this i climbed past anchor on the right and continued about runout dirty corner to the top
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21 | ★★ A Spoonful of Sugar - with Hugh Ward | 50m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
17 | ★★ Helzapoppin - with Hugh Ward | 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 16th Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
16 | ★★ Room to Move - with Mungo Skyring | 65m | |||||
15 | ★★ Zarathustra - with Mungo Skyring | 70m | |||||
19 | ★★ Ghoul - with Mungo Skyring | 60m | |||||
Wed 16th Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Upper Cliff | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Mungo Skyring | 91m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did the crack start not on top of the pedestal. Went into the climb blind. Did it in 4 pitches. Megafun with some terrifying moments in between. Accessed upper cliff via Ghoul
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Sun 13th Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★ Positively 4th Street - with Alex Mantaut | 43m | ★ Good | ||||
Bottom half is awesome! I followed the crack all the way to the top, but wasn't really worth it. Probably more bang for your buck to just rap down from the anchors on 'Absolutely Sweet Marie'.
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16 |
★★ Conspiracy
- with
Alex Mantaut
| 45m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really cool, cruisy climbing! Did it in two pitches, I lead the first, Alex lead the second.
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Sun 6th Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | |||||||
20 |
★ The Last Samurai
1
20
70m
2
3
| 70m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Couple of holds came off close to the crux so had to have a sit and re-evaluate my life choices
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