Custom PDF
Directions in Google Maps
Seasonality
Summary
Conglomerate
Sandstone
Short gritstone-like buttress of good rock with nice bush scenery and a healthy 30min. walk up to the crag.
Description
This little crag has seen local interest for decades, but the steep walk and north-facing aspect has kept its obscurity intact. The climbing is much like The Shire, short and compact with good quality rock and closely spaced bolts. Top-roping any of these routes is easy, with a tourist track running along the cliff-top. The cliff faces north-west (morning shade) and is right next to a tourist track.
Access issues inherited from Wollongong
Many of the Wollongong crags are located in the Illawarra Escarpment State Conservation Area (IESCA). This region has had a chequered history in recent times, with large swathes of popular crags having to be closed after it was missed that a new NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) Plan of Management (PoM - 2018) had incidentally banned climbing along most of the escarpment. After a lobbying effort and a stroke of coincidental good luck an amended plan of management has been published (2023), modifying the plan to allow rock-climbing “… on the west- and south-facing cliffs of Mount Keira and on cliffs north of Bulli Pass."
Access comes with caveats and all climbers should be aware that that “… new bolts or anchors may only be installed with NPWS consent, and park infrastructure such as safety railing may not be used as anchor points as they have not been designed for this purpose. NPWS will not install, assess or guarantee bolts or other fixed protection points. Participants in these activities are solely responsible for their own safety.”
Given the pressures many rock-climbing areas have been under around Australia and the plethora of access issues that have followed it is imperative that climbers respect and heed the access requirements. Access granted can easily be access taken, noting from the PoM: “Locations where rock climbing and abseiling are allowed may be reviewed and altered to address safety issues, risks to visitors or impacts on cultural values or environmental values. Temporary closures of rock climbing and abseiling locations may be applied to limit impacts. Permanent closure of sites may also be necessary. NPWS will consult with representatives of the local climbing community before implementing any permanent closures.”
Please refer to the ‘Ethic” section for more notes on how to be a good steward for the climbing community.
Approach
Steep hike
20-30 min
25min. (1.6km, 200m vertical) steep walk up the Wodi Wodi walking track (start on LHD road, just 750m north of Coalcliff Railway Station). Crag = left, 50m before the top track T-Intersection. Follow the track which initially heads north through a cow paddock then into the forest trending up and around the side of the hill. After about 10-15 minutes walking, the track has its 1st trail split (at a large slightly blackened tree) - the lower path heads to Stanwell Park. Take the upper path to the routes and walk for another 10-15 minutes (on this upper path - you will have to climb over a large fallen tree log, with a step cut into it & also under a large fallen/sawn tree). There will be one other path splitting - again take the upper route. Nearing the top of the path , on the left-hand side, you will start to see the faces of the climbs.
A few car spots available on the road beside the Wodi Wodi Track Sign on the left edge (heading north) of Lawrence Hargrave Drive(LHD), just 750m past the Coalcliff railway station.
Where to stay
Scarborough pub , 4km south, has an excellent outdoor beer garden
Ethic inherited from Wollongong
New route potential
The modern climbing scene and all the access issues that go with it requires modern ethic and all climbers should familiarise themselves with general good crag etiquette to ensure access is maintained into the future.
The following is a short summary for the area:
- The Wollongong area has a historical mix of sport, trad, and bouldering, with fully bolted sport routes emerging as the dominant form in the last decade
- Do not bolt or rebolt existing trad or bouldering routes
- No chipping of the rock to alter the difficulty of a route or create new routes. Loose or dangerous rock may be removed with careful discretion
- Top rope and lower-off through your own gear. Fixed anchor protection to be used for final lower off only to minimise wear
- Minimise excessive chalk usage and make brushing of holds a regular routine. Consider using alternative chalk colours to minimise visual impact
- Do not bush-bash new access trails, stick to existing marked trails where possible
- Do not remove vegetation, both from around cliff bases and on the cliff. Brushing down built-up lichen, dirt and chalk off existing routes is acceptable maintenance
- Do not leave rubbish or gear at the crag. Gear left may be confiscated by NPWS
- Respect any announced closures of tracks, cliffs and areas in the region
- Don’t play loud music at the crag, consider the amenity of nearby climbs and non-climbers alike
- Speak up against anti-social behaviour, unsafe behaviour, or other activities that threaten access – contact your local advocacy association - ACANSW
- Rebolting shall only be carried out by suitably competent and trained persons. The minimum standard is 316 stainless U-bolt or ring eye-bolts with pure epoxy glue. Refer to http://www.safercliffs.org
- Remember you are responsible for your own safety, and the safety of your friends!
Learn more at https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
History
This crag has, until very recently, been a total mystery when it comes to history. Ant Harris and Brian Forbes did a ground up first ascent on the chossy eastern end of the cliff 1984, but it took another decade before he returned. In 1995 Ant Harris bolted the first routes on the small sport-bolted buttress and also did a few easier trad and top-rope routes. Mark Woodford came in a month later and added a 20. In the 1999 Rock magazine New Climbs guidelet these routes are mentioned as being on Mt Mitchell but no further info was given. Sometime in the last decade ringbolt anchors were added to the top of many of the easier routes, but were then damaged - not sure by whom. There has also been some random chipping done in recent years.
Tags
Plan your Trip
Did you know?
Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.
Sat 29 Apr
Check out what is happening in Wodi Wodi Crag.
Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing
- Ticks by climbers like you
- Discussions of the community
- Updates to the index by our users
- and many more things.
Login to see the timeline!