Routes in Wollongong for selected grade

Start 9m R of DwW at right facing flake. Use holds on lower flake to obtain horizontal crack (cam) then traverse right to RB then up and left past two more RBs to lower-off at top. A super big stick-click could avoid the trad.

2m R of LF. Crack line weakness with two high ringbolts. Finger and hand-sized cams required in lower half.

Starts at landmark detached right facing flake. Climb flake and mantle on to ledge, clip high RB then up orange streak past bolts to top.

Line of bolts left of TDGO. Narrow belay ledge so stick clip first bolt! Start on small pockets next to TDGO.

Top-rope only. 2m left of red gum. At cliff-base near waterfall. Wall past small tree to flake at red gum. Up flake.

Good trad route that got partially retro-bolted. The undercut fused crack on right side of wall, with a U bolt and old rusty carrot to belay off. Up crack (placing trad and ignoring retrobolt on right wall) to right side of cave. Finish up wide crack protected by fist sized cams. Belay off tree way back on other side of chimney gully.

2m left of Sunday the 13th. Little ramp to cave. Wall above cave. Looks very badly protected - was this actually only a top-rope route?

Top-rope only. 3m right of Send Down the Clowns at low cave. Good start to small ledge. Left into honeycomb roof. Continue as far as you dare and gain wall. Short wall to corner. Up.

Hardish start (18) as for C-S past 3 bolts. Then continue to move right on EZer ground (15/6) past another 4 RB to DRB anchor. Some great climbing up high amongst the trees and beautiful views of Stanwell Park Beach. Needs a clean and a rebolt.

Wall to the right of Snakes And Ladders. Hardish move in the middle, jugs to anchors just over the lip of the roof.

The Masters Edge of Stonehaven. Gritstone like arete with fabulous tenuous arete swinging. Finishes at the anchors just over the lip of the roof.

Little corner right of More Sandy Than Kevin. Harder than it looks. Finishes up to the left on the common anchors just over the lip of the roof.

Crack trad line 1 metre to the right of Pole Dance. Start just to the right of PoleDance, clip first 3 bolts of PD to gain crack. Solid jams and good stances up through rooflet then finish as for PD. Takes bigger cams all the way, Still needs bushing, especially down low. Try to resist the temptation to clip those bolts. Was named after the huge Eucalypt in the car park

A well bolted 18m warmup with fun moves and good holds most of the way,easiest to step left into the crack for a move; crag warmup.

Same start area as GFY but a little to the left. Up generally solid rock to hanging corner. There has been a number of rockfalls on this route, dislodging vital foot holds. Grade may be harder.

Fixed Hangers to double Ring lower off under little roof.

Link-up. Start up 'Who's the Clown' but go straight up at the 3rd bolt into 'Greta Thunberg', skipping the cruxxy start moves of GT

5m right of One Step in the Clouds. Four BRs. Use double ropes to avoid rope drag. Start on ledge at left end of overhang to right of first BR. Gain wall. Up wall to small ledge leading right to arete and little corner. Up arete.

Start where you scramble up to the rungs. Up arete to cave, inside into womb and thrutch out through weird birthing move out of cave. Leave a short draw on inside cave and rope drag isn't an issue. Then thin crux.

Left route on the wall. Choose your own adventure at the last bolt before the anchors.

Ok but wandery Start as for Little Flakey to first bolt, then R and down to arete. Up to the ledge on the arete. At the ledge head left onto the face (as for Little Flakey) for a few moves then up R and up shallow corner, aiming for the anchors to the left of the little corner.

Good technique will help on the slab moves, along with tiny pebbles.

The 3 classic Wesley Snipes vampire movies: Blade, Bladder, and Bladdest. Grooves right of JAC with bridging. Five funky ways to do each move, mostly wrong.

Bit of a move to the 2nd bolt (take care) then cruise to the top.

Fun 3D corner climbing that leads into arete climbing near the top.

Step off the block and head up to anchors above the cave. Sneaky left side pull between 2nd and 3rd bolt.

The last climb on the cliff, follow the fixed hangers with some cool layback moves at the wide crack.

Just left (North) of the walk down gully is a hand crack just right of a short, thin finger crack. Climb this to wider crack above to jammed block, belay to left.

Follow the corner crack up and then move left onto the face straight up to the lower offs.

The narrow corner. Up corner, trend up right steeply to ledge then around the roof and head left to the anchors.

Cool moves up a good line. Wall and small arete 10m down and R of abseil route down corner (Escape the Dungeon). Start from belay bolt and traverse right to line. Lower offs or easily up to topout on ledge and DBB.

As good as they get on the escapement, layback & jam your way up the obvious corner crack, lower off on the anchors of "Ration The Passion" or continue up. bring doubles in medium cams if you really wanna lace her up.

A massive overhanging beak South of Kenny's Wall. If you like exposure, this is the climb for you! Follow the track to the cliff edge from the main path. Look for rap bolts on back of a large block. Fix a rope and rap 46m to the ground and climb out on another rope. If you want to complicate matters. you can rap twice on a 60m rope doubled past the first set of double rings (this will be the belay later) to a second set of double rings at a large ledge. From there you can rap to the bottom. It is possible that you won't be able to pull your rope down after the first abseil. Use draws or slings to extend the rap bolts and make sure you have an escape plan in case the rope gets stuck.

1. 25m, 8 bolts. Climb through some weathered rock. don't break the fin, skip the double rings that you used to abseil (if you break the pitch here you can watch the leader on the harder moves at the top of next bit), and belay from the 2nd set of double bolts on a ledge in the corner before the airy traverse.

2. 18m, 7 bolts. Up corner to Ubolt then left and up. There is a double ring anchor on top of the hanging arete from which to belay the second.

3. 7m, 2 bolts. The third pitch is just one or two moves to get from this ledge back to the rap anchor at the top.

Great little multi combining good movement and awesome position. May feel a tad adventurous to anyone used to sport cragging. Technically also the easiest way out of the penthouse but be warned, far more sustained in difficulty than the Silly - Lichen linkup.

Access to the start:

Rap 7m down from the Double Smoked belay (24m below cliff top + the 7m extra) to gain the low ledge system with the fixed ropes. Traverse south about 24m, fixed ropes protect the first 12m followed by another 12m of unprotected ledge traversing. Scramble around the corner and up through some vegetation and you will find the first bolts to your right.

1. 20m (18) Begin on the slightly dirty buttress following the ring bolts out of the jungle and up the knife blade arette. Belay on small ledge or continue on in one mega pitch.

2. 20m (18) Continue following the rings up past the vegetated ledge mantle and burley rooflet all the way to the exposed finale. Belay from the double U's directly ontop of the cliff (awkward) if your partner is not confident or alternatively use the single U bolt on the block 5m away (much more comfortable, although communication is more difficult).

From the belay of Double Smoked (chains on the left of the penthouse ledge) Rap 15m (continue past the first big ledge, passing on its north side) down to a lower vegetated ledge. Crimpy climbing leads up good rock back to the first ledge, belay here or continue up to the main penthouse ledge. This intermediate ledge is a good alternative place to belay for Double Smoked, Now Your Cooking and Boogie On The Balcony if the higher chain anchor is busy.

Possibly a harder first few moves then PB, delicate pulling to a less-than-stellar pocket then big reach to the ledge rails then onwards through more rails and pockets to the top ledge.

The flake just to the left of Sand Pit Wall One. Up the wall.

Sand Pit Wall Exit Lower Offs can be used from this route

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth The middle of the wall 5m right of Pig. Bulgy start, then shoot for mother bucket at. Up to top.

[Feb 2012 - steel loweroffs added] The undercut arete 2m right of 'Turkeys Take Off'. Up to ringbolt, pull over onto arete, up easily reaching left up arete to clip ring on Turkeys Take Off. Continue straight up to top reaching left to clip bolt above roof on Turkeys Take Off. Then on to Lower offs

[Dec. 2011 - ring bolt lower offs added] Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Tricky start onto thin wall and clip. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to lower offs.

[Dec 2012 - replace carrots with steel ring bolts. Use 'Short Legs' for lower off] The arete left of 'Fingers'. Starting at initials, reach up and pull up overhanging start to bolt. Up the arete past another bolt to easy ground. Continue as for fingers to the top.

climb left using the arete - 'mouth piece' shaped chunk of rock included

"A good traverse across a pocketed horizontal weakness". Up wall left of corner as for Book Him Danno Murder One to horizontals (bolt) and keep traversing left to the arete past 2nd bolt. Layback up arete, (bolt) to ledge. From here continue up juggy arete to top or lower off.

As for Pams Pussy, continues the horizontal jamb crack all the way out right to meet into the top of 'Putain de Puddin'.

14m Boulder problem. The arete left of HFBI.

Start at ground level in the crack to the right of bulgy slab. Crank through the roof on solid jugs and then the chossy chimney to the top. There are carrots on top ~3m to the left. Big cams advised.

Would like to add a bolt near the top left of crack and anchors on top.

Top rope from double rings: Start from the track in the corner (left of the arrow in the tree) for a harder start or walk up to the break for an easier accent.

NPWS are reviewing this route - May 2013

Start from the track in the corner (right of the arrow in the tree). Links up with School of Rock - Senior through the crack in the face. Climbing off the 4th ring from Crack. Belay from 3rd.

[Sept 2012 - ring bolt lower offs] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route for 60m rope]

Mixed climbing. Starts on the left side of the slab, right of Kindergarten. Up the slab at edge (past old piton) to 1st ledge. Up slab wall to 2nd ledge and 2 belay bolts. 2nd pitch = Up the right face (3 bolts) of the arete to the top RB's.

The middle of the wall between Toxic Shock and Mind Games. 2 old carrots.

A nice climb. Start left of Up Against The Wall. Tuff start and Climb the wall to double U anchors

A thin face crack. Start 3m to the left of Sacrilege. Up to the ledge past the bolt on the right. Up the arete on the left to get to the base of the crack. Climb the crack to the ledge. Climb the wall to the larger ledge and rap off.

WhooHoo a chimney! Start 3m to the left of Grouples. Climb the chimney and off right to the ledge. Climb the crack to larger ledge and rap off.

Cool layback at top

"Totally Worthless" - Rod Young (1994)

Start at the sandy beach, up through a veritable minefield of the sussest rock you may ever find to reach the main ledge. Gingerly move out towards the nose then through more suss rock to find the good hold around the nose to get scramble up on top of the nose and out.

A classic crack.

Wall and roof right of Death, bad pro.

3m right of The Great Gastric. Grovel up the V shaped groove.

Arete on right side of The Great Gastric. No bridging onto other wall.

Start under the arete right of The Smell of Dead Pox. Up arete blowing it out your backside on the way up.

Sit start with left hand in large pocket and right hand in great low pocket, awkward feet. Pull off the ground and throw to the arete, then continue up to top out over the boulder.

The corner weakness. A hard crux to start but then into the corner and easy up to anchors. 'Fiducial Shift' was added afterwards for better sustained value.

The original route for this area. 'A steep roof type wall climb with a couple of bolts'. Climbed in the dark ages and then lost to history. Now fully rebolted and no longer a death route!

Thin hands and laybacking with bomber gear until the crack runs out. Find the key small gear and say your prayers. If the small cam comes sailing down the wall the belayer will know to leave the mine before the disaster.