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Scheffauer Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome Kateřina Minková Paul Rösler

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Scheffauer 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.557494, 12.241122

1.1. Sockelwand unter dem Widauersteig 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Herbstschatten

FA: Herbert Hofmann & Thomas Heckner, 2005

4 Sport 120m, 3
2 Joe-Dany

FA: H. Hanggl

5+ Trad
3 Alt und Jung

FA: H. Hanggl & Ch. Schwarz, 1987

7 Trad
4 Via Gabriella

FA: H. Hanggl & Ch. Schwarz, 1986

5+ Trad
5 Summerwind

FA: H. Hanggl

5+ Trad
6 Rovereto-Weg

FA: H. Hanggl & H. Schwarz, 1987

5- Trad
7 Baseclimb ohne Name? 6+ Trad
8 Sodom & Gomorrha

FA: C. Ohrem & M.Reiseder, 1987

6+ Trad

1.2. Nordwand 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 47.557236, 12.240964

approach

From small village Steinberg (Kaindlhütte) take marked route no. 814 direction Schefaurer. It is about 30 minutes to the stones field on the bottom of the cliff.

descent notes

From the peak of Schefaurer take marked route no. 814 to the pass (5 minutes) and then you can go back to the nord or go to the south. Both path are via ferrata (difficulty max. A+, any protection do not need). To Steinberg (Kaindlhütte) is about 1 and 1/4 hours and to the south to Steiner Hochalm about 1 hour.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hexenweg

FA: C. Hanggl & H. Hanggl

7 Trad 200m
2 Sonja

FA: G. Kronthaler, M. Reiseder & H. Hanngl, 1985

6 Trad 400m
3 Silenzio

Long alpine climbing. Mostly bolted, but for more secure in easy pitch take some slings and nuts. On the start of the route is one bolt with big ring. It is little bit to left from the heliport (small grassy flat place under the cliff). More info, topo and photos: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/silenzio-scheffauer/

FA: Herbert Haselsberger und Andrea Papp, 18 Jun 2022

5+ Sport 530m, 15
4 Ostlerroute

FA: J. Ostler, 1903

4- Trad 600m, 16
5 Direkte Nordwand

FA: H. Kadner, L. Pistor & D.v.Schwerin, 1920

5 Trad
6 Leuchs

FA: G. Leuchs, 1903

2 Trad
7 Radlerdreams

FA: R. Kluge & C. Ohrem, 1986

6- Trad
8 Nordwandliebe

On the start of the route is red heart.

FA: I. Haselsberger & H. Haselsberger, 2014

5- Sport 560m
9 Has-Hofer-Trail

FA: H. Haselsberger & M. Hofer, 2016

5- Sport 560m
10 Kaupert-Cämmerer Kamin

FA: F. Kaupert & L. Cämmerer

4 Trad
11 Klammerriss

FA: J. Klammer & J. Schaffler, 1905

4 Trad 300m
12 Eisbärenspiel 6- Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
2 Leuchs Trad 1.2. Nordwand
4- Ostlerroute Trad 600m, 16 1.2. Nordwand
4 Herbstschatten Sport 120m, 3 1.1. Sockelwand unter dem Widauersteig
Kaupert-Cämmerer Kamin Trad 1.2. Nordwand
Klammerriss Trad 300m 1.2. Nordwand
5- Rovereto-Weg Trad 1.1. Sockelwand unter dem Widauersteig
Has-Hofer-Trail Sport 560m 1.2. Nordwand
Nordwandliebe Sport 560m 1.2. Nordwand
5 Direkte Nordwand Trad 1.2. Nordwand
5+ Joe-Dany Trad 1.1. Sockelwand unter dem Widauersteig
Summerwind Trad 1.1. Sockelwand unter dem Widauersteig
Via Gabriella Trad 1.1. Sockelwand unter dem Widauersteig
Silenzio Sport 530m, 15 1.2. Nordwand
6- Eisbärenspiel Sport 1.2. Nordwand
Radlerdreams Trad 1.2. Nordwand
6 Sonja Trad 400m 1.2. Nordwand
6+ Baseclimb ohne Name? Trad 1.1. Sockelwand unter dem Widauersteig
Sodom & Gomorrha Trad 1.1. Sockelwand unter dem Widauersteig
7 Alt und Jung Trad 1.1. Sockelwand unter dem Widauersteig
Hexenweg Trad 200m 1.2. Nordwand
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