Ascents of Earth and Heaven

only two short sections where it is a little harder. "Easy 6".

Easy scrambling with good holds.

Some harder moves directly from the start at a bulge, afterwards easier with good holds.

Only short harder sections, mostly easier terrain.

Only short harder sections, mostly easier terrain.

Crimpy start with some laybacking and moves on a gaston (crux), afterwards easier but the technical slabby finish before the anchor is still challenging.

The "Dürnberger" Dihedral can be climbed as a mix of chimneying, off width, dihedral or laybacks. Whatever you prefer, relatively long bolt distances with limited positions for mobile gear. Challenging for 6+.

The crux moves (7-) at ~ 3 bolt of the pitch. Crimpy moves on a vertical wall. Getting around the bulge is the crux. Afterwards still very challenging traverse, which is only graded 6 in the guidebook of "F. Amann". Found the traverse almost as hard as the crux (7-) before.

One of the easier 7-, some steep moves in a dihedral.

Steep and juggy moves are the crux, not too hard.

Pumpy moves at a shallow crack going upward to the right. A bit demanding in lead!

The most uncomfortable pitch of the whole route. Climbed it A0/A1 with two small totem cams.

Hard from the belay to reach the first bolt (jug on the outside right of the arete helps, if you spot it). Getting into the dihedral is also uncomfortable and challenging. Was a bit wet when we climbed it. Afterwards it´s still not over, Sustained moves on a vertical drop hole slab with very shallow holds.

Easier terrain, slabby moves.

Jugs in a slab.

The money pitch.

This is why you do the route. Super exposed mostly easy traverse with 500m of air under your butt. Memorable.

Almost no hand and footholds at the beginning, which is the crux. Crimped the shit out of something on the right, was able to smear directly above area above the anchor and was able to reach a small spike on the left side (approx. 3 bolt), then you can reach the side hold and the jug visible from the anchor.

Cool finish.

Easy scrambling, not everything is solid here.