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Routes as trad in North face

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
6° VIIa E2 D4 AID:A1 Ibis
Trad 360m, 10
VIIIa Secundo Costa Neto

A route from the "North face"[1613256762] that finishes up the "West face" and that is usually used as a continuation of the popular "Via dos Italianos" route on the West face.

This route begins in a squeeze chimney, then moves out onto the north west face of 'Pao de Acucar'. It is bolt protected, but is far from a sport climbing. The style is very characteristic of the area and it is a great route.

After reaching the shoulder between Pao de Acucar and Urca, head towards the north face of the formation. Secundo starts in the obvious dihedral/chimney.

Take 15 draws including several long runners.

FA: Patrick White, Laercio Martins, George White & Tadeusz Hollup, 1957

Trad 250m, 10
{US} 5.11+ Waldemar Guimaraes

This route is a chimney and is absolutely beautiful. Very characteristic of Rio and of Pao de Acucar. It is a long route, but can be done in a few hours if you are climbing well. Due to the wandering nature of the route it is best to have a topo/guidebook.

After making your way through the forest look for a couple of bolts leading to a hand crack and then a huge face above.

Take 16 draws and slings.

FA: Waldemar Guimaraes

Trad 300m, 10

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