Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
7b+ |
★★ MDMA
— 2 attempts
1
7a
2
7b+
3
7b
| 100m, 16 | Vratsa | ★★ Very Good | Thu 11th Apr 2024 | ||||
100 meters of run-out slab climbing, how cool is that . 2nd go while hanging the draws. 7a, 7b+, 7b
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7a+ |
★★★ Tafrata
1
6c+
2
7a+
3
7a
| 95m | Vratsa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 24th Apr 2019 | ||||
Very nice one.
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7a |
Bay Ganyo
— 2 attempts
1
7a
33m
2
7a
22m
| 55m, 11 | Vratsa | Average | Sat 27th May 2023 | ||||
Loose rock.
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9- 7b | ★★★ Triagalnikat | 25m, 10 | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Jun 2018 | ||||
Soft, (hard 7a+/easy 7b?), but very good. Got some well ment beta, but it was identical to my own plan. Besides, as a punter, never trust a stong climber’s beta.
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7b Easy | ★★ Zagryavka za shampioni | 23m, 10 | Lakatnik | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Sep 2023 | ||||
You gotta love slopers Started right below the 1st bolt (center), seemed logical and felt OK. Starting right of the bolts looks more logical and easier but it's a bit far from the 1st bolt. Starting left of the bolts is definitely possible but super illogical to me. The route is easier for tall fellas.
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8+ 7a+ | ★★★ Nepobedim | 28m | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | Tue 5th Jun 2018 | |||||
Nice. Very hot and humid today. Slippery!
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8 7a+ | ★★★ Nepobedim (Nepobedim - dolna chast) | 28m | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Sep 2022 | ||||
Super nice line! Had a huuuge fight at the end and had to give 100% to not miss the OS, which is such an awesome feeling in climbing!! Good rests with very interesting sequences and some endurance at the end. Re the grade - last year i did an os of one hot minute and i found it much easier. Im sure i didnt climb it super efficiently but it felt hard, varied, pumpy and so i agree with 7a+
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7a+ | ★★★ Nepobedim | 28m | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 30th May 2023 | ||||
Another phenomenal line in the cave.
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7a+ | ★ Krutsio | 20m, 8 | Slaveevi skali | ★ Good | Mon 18th Sep 2023 | ||||
Not easy to clip the anchor. Harder for shorties.
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8- 7a | ★★★ O! Wow | 29m, 12 | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 13th Oct 2018 | ||||
really good climbing, up to a no hand kneebar at the chains. 7a in the guidebook.
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8 7a | ★★★ O! Wow | 29m, 12 | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Jun 2019 | ||||
Easy for the grade. Huge jags
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8 7a | ★★★ O! Wow | 29m, 12 | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Jun 2018 | ||||
O wow!
Bit of a wandering pitch though.
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7a | ★★★ Power Bar | Varna | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 22nd Aug 2020 | |||||
Damn good! A must-do line.
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7a 7a/a+ | ★★★ Chicho Sam | 25m, 14 | Sofia | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 17th Jul 2019 | ||||
7a/+
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8 7a | ★★★ One hot minute (One hot minute - dolna chast) | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★★ Classic | Fri 18th Jun 2021 | |||||
With draws. Felt soft all the way to the overhang so i expected some boulder and was very nervous but instead i found like 3 4 knees with almost no hand rest and was quite ok. No crux really.
Soft |
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7a Easy | ★ Samotniyat chovek | 25m | Smolyan | Average | Sun 9th Apr 2023 | ||||
Nice and easy first half followed by pumpy, endurance climb on choss. Needs cleaning.
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7a Easy | ★ Medenka lyubimka | 28m, 14 | Teteven | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Oct 2023 | ||||
Fun 6a climbing to a four move V4 boulder problem with optional kneebars after every hard move. Really difficult to read, which is maybe why it gets 7a instead of 6c+…got pretty lucky choosing the correct beta. Strongly reminiscent of the Obed…
got a little homesick to be honest. Left kneepad useful, right is optional.
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8- 6c+ | ★★★ Sianie v mraka | 21m, 8 | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Oct 2018 | ||||
clipping the chains was the hardest move.
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6c+ | ★ Koronata i prastena | 18m, 11 | Lakatnik | Average | Wed 31st Mar 2021 | ||||
Nice slaby climbing. Good resting spots. Short technical crux between second and third bolt. Kept to the right. Long dirty runout at the top.
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6c+ 6c+/7a | ★★ Marmorko | 28m, 17 | Sofia | ★★ Very Good | Sun 15th Sep 2019 | ||||
maybe 6c+
|
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8- 6c+ | ★★★ Sianie v mraka | 21m, 8 | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Jul 2020 | ||||
Great route! Interesting vertical mini crux and into an endurance finish without much rest in between. Easier when the qds are on.
Athletic |
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6c+ | ★★★ Cranberries | 20m, 11 | Sofia | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 1st Jun 2019 | ||||
Powerful layback to a technical slab.
Soft |
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6c+/7a ~7a | ★★★ Sryazanoto vazhe | 11 | Vratsa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 27th Mar 2023 | ||||
Super fun route
|
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6c+ ~6c | ★★ Pinokio | 23m, 10 | Vratsa | Average | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | ||||
The first part sucks (too chossy) but the second one is worth climbing. It would've been nice if the bolts had followed the logical line.
|
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6c+/7a ~7a | ★ Skalolazka | 200m | Malyovitsa i Elenino ezero | ★ Good | Wed 26th Apr 2023 | ||||
You'd better love run-outs.
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6c+ Easy | ★★★ De da znam | 25m, 10 | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th May 2023 | ||||
Very nice route with a funky crux. Some loose rock in the first half.
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6c+ | ★★★ Buona Serra | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★★ Classic | Mon 21st Aug 2023 | |||||
Really nice tufa line that hasn’t been polished into oblivion yet. Kneebars are crucial for pump…
Huge runout just before the last bolt but it looks more intimidating from the ground than it actually is. As soon as you move off the tufas you are on massive jugs and unless you are totally redlining you should be able to make it to the next bolt. Looking down the whip looked totally safe and not as big as from the ground. Go for it! |
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6c+ ~6c | ★★ Pchelichkata Maya | 25m, 14 | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★★ Classic | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | ||||
Amazing climbing. Juggy first half with a great couple of tests, then it turns on for the 2nd half with bomber edged and a few sequencey moves that build towards the top. Easier than O Maria in my opinion. There were only a few bees today and they were very docile. Benchmark 5.11a.
|
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6c+ ~6c | ★★★ Chetprom - dolna chast | 25m, 12 | Teteven | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Oct 2023 | ||||
Crap start leads to some of the most fun climbing ever. Honestly the first 3 bolts were the hardest for me trying to read the choss. The tufa is all jugs and good right kneebars which you don’t even need.
Feels only about 6b+/c unless you do the final move to the black tufa above the anchors to clip the higher one…which felt 6c+ on the onsight. |
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6c | ★★ Pizho | 8 | Vratsa | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Feb 2020 | ||||
Soft. May be 6b+
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A0 6c | Parva Prolet | Bryanovshtitsa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 28th Oct 2019 | |||||
Trad Amazing line!
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6c | ★★ Dama pika - Buona Serra | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | Sun 19th Jul 2020 | ||||||
"nice sector warmup. Crux move is easy if ure tall. Nice tufas intro!
Endurance" |
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6c | Krachunka | 25m, 14 | Veliko Tarnovo | Don't Bother | Tue 22nd Aug 2023 | ||||
Choss.
|
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6c ~6c | ★★★ Vertikalna klasika | 21m, 8 | Veliko Tarnovo | ★★★ Classic | Tue 22nd Aug 2023 | ||||
Very nice one. A grade harder for shorties.
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6c Hard | ★★ Dirty old town | 50m, 17 | Smolyan | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd Apr 2024 | ||||
Nice one. Long and sustained 1st pitch followed by short and powerful 2nd pitch.
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6c Hard | Rocks | Vratsa | Crap | Mon 12th Sep 2022 | |||||
Lots of loose rock and it's not worth it. Consider helmets.
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A1 6+ A1 | ★★ Vinkelite | Vratsa | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Apr 2019 | |||||
Trad p3
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7+ 6b+ | ★★★ Dvoyka Bate | 25m | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 16th Jun 2021 | ||||
Nice route. Some pigeon scared the crap out of me at the chains I hated my own flow on the route however
Technical |
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6b+ | ★★★ WiFi | 16m, 9 | Kostenets | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 8th Jun 2019 | ||||
Boulderly
Hard |
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6b+ | ★★★ Lunna sonata | 20m, 12 | Sofia | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 5th Jul 2020 | ||||
Slab, layback, overhanging boulder with rockover and a nice run to the top. Whats not to like
Cruxy |
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6b+ | ★★★ Funky Jump - Direct | 6m | Varna | ★★★ Classic | Tue 23rd Aug 2022 | ||||
Also pretty cool
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6b+ | ★★★ Animals L1 | 7 | Vratsa | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Feb 2020 | ||||
Nice moves. A bit run-out.
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6b+ ~6c | ★★ Rolling Stones | 19m, 9 | Vratsa | Crap | Wed 1st Mar 2023 | ||||
Choss.
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6b+ | ★★ Brick in the Wall | 23m, 10 | Vratsa | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | ||||
A good one.
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6b+ | ★★ Zvyara beybi | 20m, 7 | Vratsa | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | |||||
Very nice one
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6b+ Easy | ★★★ Edna otdelna realnost | 95m | Vratsa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 16th May 2023 | ||||
Very nice route. Recommended.
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6b+ Hard | On the Road Again | 8 | Vratsa | Don't Bother | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | ||||
Easier for tall people.
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6b+ | ★★ O! Maria | 30m, 14 | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Jun 2023 | ||||
Nice long and varied. Different styles and pleasant climbing! Good warmup in the cave!
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6b+/c ~6b | Promises | 11m, 4 | Veliko Tarnovo | Tue 22nd Aug 2023 | |||||
Only one bolt at the anchor. Nice moves but very short.
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6b+ | Tlasti teleta | 51m, 13 | Slaveevi skali | Average | Mon 18th Sep 2023 | ||||
Loose rock.
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6b+ | Trilobite | 19m, 7 | Lakatnik | Average | Mon 25th Sep 2023 | ||||
Very nice moves but ... suboptimal bolting + chossy sections.
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6b+ Easy | ★★ Samo za alpinisti | 25m | Lakatnik | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Sep 2023 | ||||
Nice one but needs cleaning.
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6b+ ~6c | ★★★ Buda harka | 25m | Lakatnik | ★★★ Classic | Mon 25th Sep 2023 | ||||
Loose rock at the start but then it gets better.
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6b+ | ★★★ Dvoyka Bate | 25m | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Oct 2023 | ||||
If I bolted this route I would’ve named it Morning Sex because it’s THAT good…
On the easier side of 5.11a if you have good technique. |
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6b+ | ★★ Krachmata ni zove (The Pub is Calling Us) | 30m, 16 | Sofia | ★ Good | Mon 16th Oct 2023 | ||||
Dusty.
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6b+ Hard | ★ Ne mi prechi | 19m, 11 | Sofia | ★ Good | Tue 24th Oct 2023 | ||||
Damn chossy start. Then it gets better.
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6b+ | ★ Minete ottuk | 25m, 10 | Sofia | ★ Good | Tue 24th Oct 2023 | ||||
Apart from being super dusty and the large amount of loose rock, climbing's fun. Having carabiners at the anchor is nice but having an anchor that doesn't twist your rope is 10 times nicer.
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7 ~6b+ | ★★★ Obarnatiyat triagalnik | 25m, 10 | Vratsa | ★★★ Classic | Wed 26th Apr 2023 | ||||
I loved this one. Very cool moves.
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6b | ★★★ Ne e losho | 19m, 10 | Lakatnik | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 11th Oct 2019 | ||||
a good one
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6b | ★★★ Bizhu | Vratsa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 14th Nov 2018 | |||||
#FA Trad p1:6b, p2:5b
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6b | ★★★ Krali Marko | Bryanovshtitsa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 14th Aug 2019 | |||||
Trad p1:6b, p2:6b+
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6b | ★★★ Stariat | 18m, 10 | Sofia | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Jul 2020 | ||||
Nice line. Weird crux. Powerful. Could be harder than 6b imo. TERRIBLE bolting at the top! why is the anchor so high up - ropedrag is massive and it messes up the rope!
Athletic |
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6b | ★ Blokada | 20m, 11 | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Jun 2021 | ||||
Meh nice moves before the upper half. Then bring your gardening tools
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6b ~6b+ | ★★★ Kade sgreshihme | 28m, 15 | Lakatnik | ★★★ Classic | Tue 3rd Jan 2023 | ||||
Awesome route.
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6b ~6b+ | ★ I butilka rom | 18m, 9 | Vratsa | Crap | Sat 1st Apr 2023 | ||||
Crap.
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6b | Metalwings | Vratsa | Crap | Sat 1st Apr 2023 | |||||
Choss.
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6b | ★ Yo-ho-ho | 16m, 10 | Vratsa | Crap | Wed 1st Mar 2023 | ||||
Overbolted.
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6b ~6c | ★★ Orgelpfeife | 250m | Vratsa | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Nov 2020 | ||||
Not bad. Right variant.
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6b | ★★★ Nai-krasivata zhena v grada | 20m, 8 | Vratsa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 27th May 2023 | ||||
So good. Great one.
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6b/b+ Easy | Rak | 7 | Vratsa | Don't Bother | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | ||||
Don't fall before the 5th bolt.
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6b | ★ Shtuka | 8 | Vratsa | ★ Good | Thu 8th Jun 2023 | ||||
Not bad.
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6b | ★★★ Andaman | 30m, 12 | Veliko Tarnovo | ★★★ Classic | Thu 14th Sep 2023 | ||||
Amazing and really fun climbing with great holds the entire way. At the start use a cheater stack to get the first hold in the crack. Otherwise it’s quite a bit harder.
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6b | ★★ Ludo Mlado - dolna chast | 25m, 11 | Teteven | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Oct 2023 | ||||
Jug edges all the way until the final few bolts where it changes to sick tufa-pulling. Amazing finish moves.
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6b Easy | ★★★ Naturalno izvisen L0 | 25m, 12 | Teteven | ★★★ Classic | Mon 16th Oct 2023 | ||||
This was probably the most fun I’ve had on a warmup in Bulgaria. Stellar line on drastically better rock than the line to the left. Pretty committing near the top, with some spicy runout but good holds. Epic finish! Felt pretty soft, maybe 5.10a/b at most.
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6b | ★ Blokada | 20m, 11 | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Oct 2023 | ||||
Nice little warmup with awesome slab moves on good edges! The topout reminded me of Reimer’s. I think I found my new favorite warmup
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7- | ★★★ Plochata (Plochata (The Slab)) | 30m, 11 | Vratsa | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Jul 2018 | ||||
Really nice moves and solid runout at the top
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6a 6a+ | ★ Team Building (Tim bilding) - with Alfred Ditch | 10m | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★ Good | Wed 23rd Sep 2020 | ||||
Interesting (not expected on 6a) few moves near the top
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5c 6a+ | ★★ Sivite plochi - with Orest Kalynyak | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Sep 2020 | |||||
Super cool and interesting route. Slab at the beginning with few moments when you really need to think about next move, and relatively easy finish on great jugs. Have to say however that route is not 5c for sure, 6a in my opinon.
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6a+ | ★★★ K.D.O.B.B.N. | 55m | Vratsa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 15th May 2018 | ||||
Trad
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6a+ | ★★★ Zoro | Vratsa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 8th Apr 2019 | |||||
Trad p1:5a, p2:6a, p3:6b+
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6a+ | ★★★ Brown Sugar | Vratsa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 2nd Nov 2020 | |||||
Trad Beautiful rock features.
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6a+ | ★★ Tezhko bez muzika | Vratsa | ★★ Very Good | Mon 7th Oct 2019 | |||||
Trad p1:6a+, p2:5b/c
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6a+ | ★★★ Veseliat Gringo (Veseliyat Gringo) | 180m | Vratsa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 2nd Oct 2017 | ||||
Trad
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6a+ 6a+/b | ★★★ Sineva | Malyovitsa i Elenino ezero | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 9th Jul 2019 | |||||
Trad p1:5b, p2:6b, p3:6a+
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6a+ | ★★★ Tra-la-la | 20m | Bryanovshtitsa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 16th May 2021 | ||||
Trad
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6a+ | ★★★ Zhitano (Gitano) | Vratsa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 7th Oct 2019 | |||||
Trad p1:6a, p2:6b
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6a+ | ★★ Lyusi | Malyovitsa i Elenino ezero | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Sep 2020 | |||||
Trad 6a+ (nice one), 5b, 5b, 4a
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6a+ | ★★★ Sero Tore (Cerro Torre) | Vratsa | ★★★ Classic | Mon 10th May 2021 | |||||
Trad Demanding route. Long pitches with few rests. Bring at least 13 cams up to #4 (grey). 3rd pitch is on quite loose rock. The last two belay stances aren't bolted, the others are but the bolts were placed in 2003 and (I believe) are not stainless steel so their condition is unknown. Grades: 6b, 6b, 6b (feels like 6c+), 6b (feels like 6c), 6a+, 5b. Rappels: after the last pitch you need to downclimb 10-15 m. a chossy but easy couloir (right) to get to a bolt with a quick link.
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6a+ | ★★★ Fevruari (February) | Vratsa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 8th Apr 2019 | |||||
Trad 6a, 6b, 5c
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6a+ | ★★ Nikola Korchev | Malyovitsa i Elenino ezero | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Sep 2020 | |||||
Plenty of run-outs
|
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6+ 6a+ | ★ Team Building | 10m | Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave | ★★ Very Good | Fri 30th Aug 2019 | ||||
nice warmup!
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Plochata na Milkana | 50m | Sofia | ★★★ Classic | Fri 31st Jul 2020 | ||||
With the right edge - 6a+ variation. Still there was a very weird move in the middle. great route!
Technical |
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6a+ | ★★★ Veseliat Gringo (Veseliyat Gringo) | 20m, 8 | Lakatnik | ★★★ Classic | Mon 7th Dec 2020 | ||||
nice route! tricky crux. hard to dynamically slap twice hoping there is a jug.
Endurance |
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6a+ 6a+/b | ★★★ Kostenets | 18m, 10 | Kostenets | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Aug 2020 | ||||
Looks terrible but its actually very nice. Bottom bit tests the smeers and the top bit is a mini chimney. Softer than 6b
Soft |
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6a+ | ★★ Mah (Myh) | 35m, 13 | Sofia | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Jul 2020 | ||||
Very weird crux. Overhang for the hands / slab for the feet liked it. Amazing view
Cruxy |
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6a+ | ★★★ Hotel Kalifornia (Hotel California) | 30m, 14 | Kostenets | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 1st Aug 2020 | ||||
Long and beautiful. Layback at the 2nd half.
Technical |
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6a+ | ★★★ Spa | 19m, 9 | Kostenets | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 8th Jun 2019 | ||||
Very coool and consistent. Nice mantle to a slab move at the end
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6a+ | ★★ Dupkata na gushtera | 24m | Tabachka | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Apr 2022 | ||||
Holds easily broken due to the nature of the rock. Great route otherwise!
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6a+ |
★★★ Otsastvieto na geroya
1
6a+
35m
2
5c+
30m
| 65m | Vratsa | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th Mar 2023 | ||||
Very nice one
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7- | ★★ Somnambul variant | 35m, 16 | Vratsa | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th May 2023 | ||||
Very nice moves. Old-school bolting.
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