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Ascents in Bulgaria having Beta

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 385 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Climber Date
7b+ MDMA — 2 attempts
1 7a Sport
2 7b+ Sport
3 7b Sport
Sport 100m, 16 Vratsa Very Good
kosta
Thu 11th Apr 2024
100 meters of run-out slab climbing, how cool is that . 2nd go while hanging the draws. 7a, 7b+, 7b

 
7a+ Tafrata
1 6c+
2 7a+
3 7a
Sport 95m Vratsa Mega Classic
kosta
Wed 24th Apr 2019
Very nice one.

 
7a Bay Ganyo — 2 attempts
1 7a 33m Sport
2 7a 22m Sport
Sport 55m, 11 Vratsa Average
kosta
Sat 27th May 2023
Loose rock.

 
9- 7b Triagalnikat Sport 25m, 10 Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Very Good
HaeMeS
Wed 6th Jun 2018
Soft, (hard 7a+/easy 7b?), but very good. Got some well ment beta, but it was identical to my own plan. Besides, as a punter, never trust a stong climber’s beta.

 
7b Easy Zagryavka za shampioni Sport 23m, 10 Lakatnik Very Good
kosta
Mon 25th Sep 2023
You gotta love slopers Started right below the 1st bolt (center), seemed logical and felt OK. Starting right of the bolts looks more logical and easier but it's a bit far from the 1st bolt. Starting left of the bolts is definitely possible but super illogical to me. The route is easier for tall fellas.

 
8+ 7a+ Nepobedim Sport 28m Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave
HaeMeS
Tue 5th Jun 2018
Nice. Very hot and humid today. Slippery!

 
8 7a+ Nepobedim (Nepobedim - dolna chast) Sport 28m Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Classic
Petar Chalamov
Sun 18th Sep 2022
Super nice line! Had a huuuge fight at the end and had to give 100% to not miss the OS, which is such an awesome feeling in climbing!! Good rests with very interesting sequences and some endurance at the end. Re the grade - last year i did an os of one hot minute and i found it much easier. Im sure i didnt climb it super efficiently but it felt hard, varied, pumpy and so i agree with 7a+

 
7a+ Nepobedim Sport 28m Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Mega Classic
kosta
Tue 30th May 2023
Another phenomenal line in the cave.

 
7a+ Krutsio Sport 20m, 8 Slaveevi skali Good
kosta
Mon 18th Sep 2023
Not easy to clip the anchor. Harder for shorties.

 
8- 7a O! Wow Sport 29m, 12 Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Mega Classic
Martin
Sat 13th Oct 2018
really good climbing, up to a no hand kneebar at the chains. 7a in the guidebook.

 
8 7a O! Wow Sport 29m, 12 Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Classic
Mike Krutyansky
Sat 15th Jun 2019
Easy for the grade. Huge jags

 
8 7a O! Wow Sport 29m, 12 Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Very Good
HaeMeS
Tue 5th Jun 2018
O wow! Bit of a wandering pitch though.

 
7a Power Bar Deep water solo Varna Mega Classic
kosta
Sat 22nd Aug 2020
Damn good! A must-do line.

 
7a 7a/a+ Chicho Sam Sport 25m, 14 Sofia Mega Classic
kosta
Wed 17th Jul 2019
7a/+

 
8 7a One hot minute (One hot minute - dolna chast) Sport Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Classic
Petar Chalamov
Fri 18th Jun 2021
With draws. Felt soft all the way to the overhang so i expected some boulder and was very nervous but instead i found like 3 4 knees with almost no hand rest and was quite ok. No crux really.

Soft

 
7a Easy Samotniyat chovek Sport 25m Smolyan Average
kosta
Sun 9th Apr 2023
Nice and easy first half followed by pumpy, endurance climb on choss. Needs cleaning.

 
7a Easy Medenka lyubimka Sport 28m, 14 Teteven Very Good
Chase Aaron Miller
Mon 16th Oct 2023
Fun 6a climbing to a four move V4 boulder problem with optional kneebars after every hard move. Really difficult to read, which is maybe why it gets 7a instead of 6c+…got pretty lucky choosing the correct beta. Strongly reminiscent of the Obed… got a little homesick to be honest. Left kneepad useful, right is optional.

 
8- 6c+ Sianie v mraka Sport 21m, 8 Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Very Good
Martin
Sun 7th Oct 2018
clipping the chains was the hardest move.

 
6c+ Koronata i prastena Sport 18m, 11 Lakatnik Average
Amaris Rose
Wed 31st Mar 2021
Nice slaby climbing. Good resting spots. Short technical crux between second and third bolt. Kept to the right. Long dirty runout at the top.

 
6c+ 6c+/7a Marmorko Sport 28m, 17 Sofia Very Good
kosta
Sun 15th Sep 2019
maybe 6c+

 
8- 6c+ Sianie v mraka Sport 21m, 8 Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Classic
Petar Chalamov
Sat 25th Jul 2020
Great route! Interesting vertical mini crux and into an endurance finish without much rest in between. Easier when the qds are on.

Athletic

 
6c+ Cranberries Sport 20m, 11 Sofia Mega Classic
Petar Chalamov
Sat 1st Jun 2019
Powerful layback to a technical slab.

Soft

 
6c+/7a ~7a Sryazanoto vazhe Sport 11 Vratsa Mega Classic
kosta
Mon 27th Mar 2023
Super fun route

 
6c+ ~6c Pinokio Sport 23m, 10 Vratsa Average
kosta
Fri 3rd Mar 2023
The first part sucks (too chossy) but the second one is worth climbing. It would've been nice if the bolts had followed the logical line.

 
6c+/7a ~7a Skalolazka Trad 200m Malyovitsa i Elenino ezero Good
kosta
Wed 26th Apr 2023
You'd better love run-outs.

 
6c+ Easy De da znam Sport 25m, 10 Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Classic
kosta
Sat 27th May 2023
Very nice route with a funky crux. Some loose rock in the first half.

 
6c+ Buona Serra Sport Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Classic
Chase Aaron Miller
Mon 21st Aug 2023
Really nice tufa line that hasn’t been polished into oblivion yet. Kneebars are crucial for pump…

Huge runout just before the last bolt but it looks more intimidating from the ground than it actually is. As soon as you move off the tufas you are on massive jugs and unless you are totally redlining you should be able to make it to the next bolt. Looking down the whip looked totally safe and not as big as from the ground. Go for it!

 
6c+ ~6c Pchelichkata Maya Sport 25m, 14 Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Classic
Chase Aaron Miller
Wed 23rd Aug 2023
Amazing climbing. Juggy first half with a great couple of tests, then it turns on for the 2nd half with bomber edged and a few sequencey moves that build towards the top. Easier than O Maria in my opinion. There were only a few bees today and they were very docile. Benchmark 5.11a.

 
6c+ ~6c Chetprom - dolna chast Sport 25m, 12 Teteven Classic
Chase Aaron Miller
Sat 14th Oct 2023
Crap start leads to some of the most fun climbing ever. Honestly the first 3 bolts were the hardest for me trying to read the choss. The tufa is all jugs and good right kneebars which you don’t even need.

Feels only about 6b+/c unless you do the final move to the black tufa above the anchors to clip the higher one…which felt 6c+ on the onsight.

 
6c Pizho Sport 8 Vratsa Very Good
kosta
Sun 23rd Feb 2020
Soft. May be 6b+

 
A0 6c Parva Prolet Trad Bryanovshtitsa Mega Classic
kosta
Mon 28th Oct 2019
Trad Amazing line!

 
6c Dama pika - Buona Serra Sport Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave
Petar Chalamov
Sun 19th Jul 2020
"nice sector warmup. Crux move is easy if ure tall. Nice tufas intro!

Endurance"

 
6c Krachunka Sport 25m, 14 Veliko Tarnovo Don't Bother
kosta
Tue 22nd Aug 2023
Choss.

 
6c ~6c Vertikalna klasika Sport 21m, 8 Veliko Tarnovo Classic
kosta
Tue 22nd Aug 2023
Very nice one. A grade harder for shorties.

 
6c Hard Dirty old town Sport 50m, 17 Smolyan Very Good
kosta
Wed 3rd Apr 2024
Nice one. Long and sustained 1st pitch followed by short and powerful 2nd pitch.

 
6c Hard Rocks Sport Vratsa Crap
kosta
Mon 12th Sep 2022
Lots of loose rock and it's not worth it. Consider helmets.

 
A1 6+ A1 Vinkelite Trad Vratsa Very Good
kosta
Mon 8th Apr 2019
Trad p3

 
7+ 6b+ Dvoyka Bate Sport 25m Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Mega Classic
Petar Chalamov
Wed 16th Jun 2021
Nice route. Some pigeon scared the crap out of me at the chains I hated my own flow on the route however

Technical

 
6b+ WiFi Sport 16m, 9 Kostenets Mega Classic
Petar Chalamov
Sat 8th Jun 2019
Boulderly

Hard

 
6b+ Lunna sonata Sport 20m, 12 Sofia Mega Classic
Petar Chalamov
Sun 5th Jul 2020
Slab, layback, overhanging boulder with rockover and a nice run to the top. Whats not to like

Cruxy

 
6b+ Funky Jump - Direct Deep water solo 6m Varna Classic
kosta
Tue 23rd Aug 2022
Also pretty cool

 
6b+ Animals L1 Sport 7 Vratsa Classic
kosta
Sun 23rd Feb 2020
Nice moves. A bit run-out.

 
6b+ ~6c Rolling Stones Sport 19m, 9 Vratsa Crap
kosta
Wed 1st Mar 2023
Choss.

 
6b+ Brick in the Wall Sport 23m, 10 Vratsa Very Good
kosta
Fri 3rd Mar 2023
A good one.

 
6b+ Zvyara beybi Sport 20m, 7 Vratsa
kosta
Fri 3rd Mar 2023
Very nice one

 
6b+ Easy Edna otdelna realnost Trad 95m Vratsa Mega Classic
kosta
Tue 16th May 2023
Very nice route. Recommended.

 
6b+ Hard On the Road Again Sport 8 Vratsa Don't Bother
kosta
Thu 8th Jun 2023
Easier for tall people.

 
6b+ O! Maria Sport 30m, 14 Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Very Good
Petar Chalamov
Sun 11th Jun 2023
Nice long and varied. Different styles and pleasant climbing! Good warmup in the cave!

 
6b+/c ~6b Promises Sport 11m, 4 Veliko Tarnovo
kosta
Tue 22nd Aug 2023
Only one bolt at the anchor. Nice moves but very short.

 
6b+ Tlasti teleta Sport 51m, 13 Slaveevi skali Average
kosta
Mon 18th Sep 2023
Loose rock.

 
6b+ Trilobite Sport 19m, 7 Lakatnik Average
kosta
Mon 25th Sep 2023
Very nice moves but ... suboptimal bolting + chossy sections.

 
6b+ Easy Samo za alpinisti Sport 25m Lakatnik Very Good
kosta
Mon 25th Sep 2023
Nice one but needs cleaning.

 
6b+ ~6c Buda harka Sport 25m Lakatnik Classic
kosta
Mon 25th Sep 2023
Loose rock at the start but then it gets better.

 
6b+ Dvoyka Bate Sport 25m Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Classic
Chase Aaron Miller
Thu 12th Oct 2023
If I bolted this route I would’ve named it Morning Sex because it’s THAT good

On the easier side of 5.11a if you have good technique.

 
6b+ Krachmata ni zove (The Pub is Calling Us) Sport 30m, 16 Sofia Good
kosta
Mon 16th Oct 2023
Dusty.

 
6b+ Hard Ne mi prechi Sport 19m, 11 Sofia Good
kosta
Tue 24th Oct 2023
Damn chossy start. Then it gets better.

 
6b+ Minete ottuk Sport 25m, 10 Sofia Good
kosta
Tue 24th Oct 2023
Apart from being super dusty and the large amount of loose rock, climbing's fun. Having carabiners at the anchor is nice but having an anchor that doesn't twist your rope is 10 times nicer.

 
7 ~6b+ Obarnatiyat triagalnik Sport 25m, 10 Vratsa Classic
kosta
Wed 26th Apr 2023
I loved this one. Very cool moves.

 
6b Ne e losho Sport 19m, 10 Lakatnik Mega Classic
kosta
Fri 11th Oct 2019
a good one

 
6b Bizhu Trad Vratsa Mega Classic
kosta
Wed 14th Nov 2018
#FA Trad p1:6b, p2:5b

 
6b Krali Marko Trad Bryanovshtitsa Mega Classic
kosta
Wed 14th Aug 2019
Trad p1:6b, p2:6b+

 
6b Stariat Sport 18m, 10 Sofia Very Good
Petar Chalamov
Sun 12th Jul 2020
Nice line. Weird crux. Powerful. Could be harder than 6b imo. TERRIBLE bolting at the top! why is the anchor so high up - ropedrag is massive and it messes up the rope!

Athletic

 
6b Blokada Sport 20m, 11 Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Very Good
Petar Chalamov
Fri 18th Jun 2021
Meh nice moves before the upper half. Then bring your gardening tools

 
6b ~6b+ Kade sgreshihme Sport 28m, 15 Lakatnik Classic
kosta
Tue 3rd Jan 2023
Awesome route.

 
6b ~6b+ I butilka rom Sport 18m, 9 Vratsa Crap
kosta
Sat 1st Apr 2023
Crap.

 
6b Metalwings Sport Vratsa Crap
kosta
Sat 1st Apr 2023
Choss.

 
6b Yo-ho-ho Sport 16m, 10 Vratsa Crap
kosta
Wed 1st Mar 2023
Overbolted.

 
6b ~6c Orgelpfeife Trad 250m Vratsa Very Good
kosta
Mon 2nd Nov 2020
Not bad. Right variant.

 
6b Nai-krasivata zhena v grada Sport 20m, 8 Vratsa Mega Classic
kosta
Sat 27th May 2023
So good. Great one.

 
6b/b+ Easy Rak Sport 7 Vratsa Don't Bother
kosta
Thu 8th Jun 2023
Don't fall before the 5th bolt.

 
6b Shtuka Sport 8 Vratsa Good
kosta
Thu 8th Jun 2023
Not bad.

 
6b Andaman Sport 30m, 12 Veliko Tarnovo Classic
Chase Aaron Miller
Thu 14th Sep 2023
Amazing and really fun climbing with great holds the entire way. At the start use a cheater stack to get the first hold in the crack. Otherwise it’s quite a bit harder.

 
6b Ludo Mlado - dolna chast Sport 25m, 11 Teteven Very Good
Chase Aaron Miller
Sat 14th Oct 2023
Jug edges all the way until the final few bolts where it changes to sick tufa-pulling. Amazing finish moves.

 
6b Easy Naturalno izvisen L0 Sport 25m, 12 Teteven Classic
Chase Aaron Miller
Mon 16th Oct 2023
This was probably the most fun I’ve had on a warmup in Bulgaria. Stellar line on drastically better rock than the line to the left. Pretty committing near the top, with some spicy runout but good holds. Epic finish! Felt pretty soft, maybe 5.10a/b at most.

 
6b Blokada Sport 20m, 11 Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Very Good
Chase Aaron Miller
Tue 17th Oct 2023
Nice little warmup with awesome slab moves on good edges! The topout reminded me of Reimer’s. I think I found my new favorite warmup

 
7- Plochata (Plochata (The Slab)) Sport 30m, 11 Vratsa Very Good
Chris Martin
Sun 22nd Jul 2018
Really nice moves and solid runout at the top

 
6a 6a+ Team Building (Tim bilding) - with Alfred Ditch Sport 10m Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Good
Andrii Bil
Wed 23rd Sep 2020
Interesting (not expected on 6a) few moves near the top

 
5c 6a+ Sivite plochi - with Orest Kalynyak Sport Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Very Good
Andrii Bil
Sat 26th Sep 2020
Super cool and interesting route. Slab at the beginning with few moments when you really need to think about next move, and relatively easy finish on great jugs. Have to say however that route is not 5c for sure, 6a in my opinon.

 
6a+ K.D.O.B.B.N. Trad 55m Vratsa Mega Classic
kosta
Tue 15th May 2018
Trad

 
6a+ Zoro Trad Vratsa Mega Classic
kosta
Mon 8th Apr 2019
Trad p1:5a, p2:6a, p3:6b+

 
6a+ Brown Sugar Trad Vratsa Mega Classic
kosta
Mon 2nd Nov 2020
Trad Beautiful rock features.

 
6a+ Tezhko bez muzika Trad Vratsa Very Good
kosta
Mon 7th Oct 2019
Trad p1:6a+, p2:5b/c

 
6a+ Veseliat Gringo (Veseliyat Gringo) Trad 180m Vratsa Mega Classic
kosta
Mon 2nd Oct 2017
Trad

 
6a+ 6a+/b Sineva Trad Malyovitsa i Elenino ezero Mega Classic
kosta
Tue 9th Jul 2019
Trad p1:5b, p2:6b, p3:6a+

 
6a+ Tra-la-la Trad 20m Bryanovshtitsa Mega Classic
kosta
Sun 16th May 2021
Trad

 
6a+ Zhitano (Gitano) Trad Vratsa Mega Classic
kosta
Mon 7th Oct 2019
Trad p1:6a, p2:6b

 
6a+ Lyusi Trad Malyovitsa i Elenino ezero Very Good
kosta
Mon 14th Sep 2020
Trad 6a+ (nice one), 5b, 5b, 4a

 
6a+ Sero Tore (Cerro Torre) Trad Vratsa Classic
kosta
Mon 10th May 2021
Trad Demanding route. Long pitches with few rests. Bring at least 13 cams up to #4 (grey). 3rd pitch is on quite loose rock. The last two belay stances aren't bolted, the others are but the bolts were placed in 2003 and (I believe) are not stainless steel so their condition is unknown. Grades: 6b, 6b, 6b (feels like 6c+), 6b (feels like 6c), 6a+, 5b. Rappels: after the last pitch you need to downclimb 10-15 m. a chossy but easy couloir (right) to get to a bolt with a quick link.

 
6a+ Fevruari (February) Trad Vratsa Mega Classic
kosta
Mon 8th Apr 2019
Trad 6a, 6b, 5c

 
6a+ Nikola Korchev Sport Malyovitsa i Elenino ezero Very Good
kosta
Mon 14th Sep 2020
Plenty of run-outs

 
6+ 6a+ Team Building Sport 10m Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave Very Good
Petar Chalamov
Fri 30th Aug 2019
nice warmup!

 
6a+ Plochata na Milkana Sport 50m Sofia Classic
Petar Chalamov
Fri 31st Jul 2020
With the right edge - 6a+ variation. Still there was a very weird move in the middle. great route!

Technical

 
6a+ Veseliat Gringo (Veseliyat Gringo) Sport 20m, 8 Lakatnik Classic
Petar Chalamov
Mon 7th Dec 2020
nice route! tricky crux. hard to dynamically slap twice hoping there is a jug.

Endurance

 
6a+ 6a+/b Kostenets Sport 18m, 10 Kostenets Classic
Petar Chalamov
Sat 1st Aug 2020
Looks terrible but its actually very nice. Bottom bit tests the smeers and the top bit is a mini chimney. Softer than 6b

Soft

 
6a+ Mah (Myh) Sport 35m, 13 Sofia Very Good
Petar Chalamov
Sat 11th Jul 2020
Very weird crux. Overhang for the hands / slab for the feet liked it. Amazing view

Cruxy

 
6a+ Hotel Kalifornia (Hotel California) Sport 30m, 14 Kostenets Mega Classic
Petar Chalamov
Sat 1st Aug 2020
Long and beautiful. Layback at the 2nd half.

Technical

 
6a+ Spa Sport 19m, 9 Kostenets Mega Classic
Petar Chalamov
Sat 8th Jun 2019
Very coool and consistent. Nice mantle to a slab move at the end

 
6a+ Dupkata na gushtera Sport 24m Tabachka Very Good
Stan Bolyarov
Tue 12th Apr 2022
Holds easily broken due to the nature of the rock. Great route otherwise!

 
6a+ Otsastvieto na geroya
1 6a+ 35m Trad
2 5c+ 30m Trad
Trad 65m Vratsa Very Good
kosta
Mon 27th Mar 2023
Very nice one

 
7- Somnambul variant Sport 35m, 16 Vratsa Classic
kosta
Sun 14th May 2023
Very nice moves. Old-school bolting.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 385 ascents.

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