Ascensões em Bulgaria tendo Beta

Nice, technical moves.

Not that bad actually.

One of the best routes in the crag. Cool longish moves up there. Hard 7b+ for dudes but definitely harder for ladies and shorties.

Interesting route. Unfortunately the crux-hold has lost a lot of texture and friction because of chalk buildup (due to not brushing!).

Tricky problem

Climbing-wise, one of the best routes around. Bolting-wise, one of the worst.

100 meters of run-out slab climbing, how cool is that . 2nd go while hanging the draws. 7a, 7b+, 7b

Not exactly a beginner route due to serious run-outs.

Nice one. Long and sustained 1st pitch followed by short and powerful 2nd pitch.

Surprisingly good route.

Too short. The anchor should've been higher. Way harder for shorties.

Very nice route. It's a shame it gets overlooked so often. 7b/+

Apart from being super dusty and the large amount of loose rock, climbing's fun. Having carabiners at the anchor is nice but having an anchor that doesn't twist your rope is 10 times nicer.

Super cool and technical route.

Damn chossy start. Then it gets better.

You need good core, very strong fingers, and high friction for this one. The feet are polished and bad almost the entire route. A consistent V5 boulder problem from bottom to top. 3rd clip felt impossible to get without burning too much energy. Straight up brutal power endurance.

Nice little warmup with awesome slab moves on good edges! The topout reminded me of Reimer’s. I think I found my new favorite warmup

Had to hang at the crux to find the sequence. Not what I thought it was going to be! I think I made up my own tall-person beta 😂. That being said I can’t really justify 11c for this…11b at most since the entire grade is in that sequence. Sick route that deserves more attention.

Fun 6a climbing to a four move V4 boulder problem with optional kneebars after every hard move. Really difficult to read, which is maybe why it gets 7a instead of 6c+…got pretty lucky choosing the correct beta. Strongly reminiscent of the Obed… got a little homesick to be honest. Left kneepad useful, right is optional.

A 2nd go wonder. Once you find your beta for the top it feels significantly easier. 1st try hanging draws a few days ago I fell just before the final moves, using bad beta pulling into the RH undercling off the double kneebar. Absolutely smashed it today first go. Double kneepads very helpful. Classic V3 tufa boulder! Felt 7a+ with beta, but the onsight go was definitely 7b.

This was probably the most fun I’ve had on a warmup in Bulgaria. Stellar line on drastically better rock than the line to the left. Pretty committing near the top, with some spicy runout but good holds. Epic finish! Felt pretty soft, maybe 5.10a/b at most.

Dusty.

Cool moves

Very nice one.

Great route! One of the best in the crag.

Not a bad climb but some loose rock needs to be cleaned. I broke 3 footholds and 2 handholds. Harder for shorties. Chipped.

Really nice quality moves on consistently poor, chossy rock. An interesting mix. The final moves are the only pumpy bit, and it really isn’t that bad if you read the sequence well and nab the pocket. Hanging anchors from underneath isn’t really an option, you have to go up and left to the final edge. Soft.

Crap start leads to some of the most fun climbing ever. Honestly the first 3 bolts were the hardest for me trying to read the choss. The tufa is all jugs and good right kneebars which you don’t even need.

Feels only about 6b+/c unless you do the final move to the black tufa above the anchors to clip the higher one…which felt 6c+ on the onsight.

Jug edges all the way until the final few bolts where it changes to sick tufa-pulling. Amazing finish moves.

Did not really enjoy it at all. Stupid crux on polished nothing holds and bad feet, to a massive rest on a hollow flake full of bats. Last move is really hard just like 2 routes to the left, and the anchor clip is a major pain in the ass. Not consistent at all grade-wise. No interest in losing any more skin on this one.

Soooo psyched! Thanks to the two lady-crushers from Sofia who gave me a crucial sequence change at the crux. This sure as hell felt 7b+ and it was significantly harder than Triagalnikat for me which I did on my 2nd try. Everyone on 8a.nu gives this 7b which hurts my feelings

If I bolted this route I would’ve named it Morning Sex because it’s THAT good…

On the easier side of 5.11a if you have good technique.

Hung draws and gave one burn after, high point was falling on the last RH pinch at the crux, when moving right foot high. Unlocked crucial beta for the 1st half to reduce pump

Nice climb. Bolting is suboptimal. Maybe a hold broke but now clipping the anchor feels like a crux of its own.

Loose rock at the start but then it gets better.

Choss

Nice one but needs cleaning.

Very nice moves but ... suboptimal bolting + chossy sections.